Reddit Reddit reviews Vibra-TITE 9072 Nickel Anti-Seize Compound Lubricant, 2600 Degree F Maximum Temperature, 6mL Tube

We found 3 Reddit comments about Vibra-TITE 9072 Nickel Anti-Seize Compound Lubricant, 2600 Degree F Maximum Temperature, 6mL Tube. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Automotive
Oils & Fluids
Greases & Lubricants
Automotive Lubricants
Automotive Anti-Seize Lubricants
Vibra-TITE 9072 Nickel Anti-Seize Compound Lubricant, 2600 Degree F Maximum Temperature, 6mL Tube
High temperature lubricant for threads, gears, chains, cables, sprockets, and rollersPerforms up to 2,600 degrees FahrenheitExcellent resistance to harsh chemicalsPrevents seizing, galling, and cold weldingProtects against rust and corrosion
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3 Reddit comments about Vibra-TITE 9072 Nickel Anti-Seize Compound Lubricant, 2600 Degree F Maximum Temperature, 6mL Tube:

u/adanufgail · 2 pointsr/ender3

Here's a copy/paste from an earlier comment reply I made about 2 months back.

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I read on some subreddit that a lot from Creality aren't always screwed in. Mine took about two weeks to start showing issues. What I did was unscrew the two side screws, unscrew the heat break (metal tube) and added anti-sieze to the hotend to lubricate everything. Here's the kind I bought Be careful to use gloves as I guess it can cause people to have reactions if that gets on your skin. It's basically a nickel powder in a goo that's good up to like 2000F or something like that.

I fully disconnected the heater and thermister and used a heat gun heat up the block, then screwed in the nozzle all the way, then screwed in the heatbreak to meet it. I let it cool and reassembled everything, and redid the nozzle hot after unscrewing it about half a turn and pushing the PTFE tube into it, then tightened it back up. After that and replacing the couplers, didn't leak again.

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You probably don't need the anti-sieze unless you're having trouble unscrewing/screwing the heat break.

u/JuiceStyle · 2 pointsr/ft86

Get the following stuff to prepare:


  • spray can of penetrating oil like pb blaster or the seafoam brand one.

  • 3/8 drive torque wrench and breaker bar
  • deep 14mm socket 3/8 drive
  • some different sizes of 3/8 extensions
  • 3/8 bendy elbow thingy
  • o2 sensor specific socket - I used this one
  • wrenches/sockets for the overpipe bolts (sorry idk sizes off top of my head)
  • high temp thread anti seize - I got this one
  • new gaskets for header and overpipe. Grimmspeed ones are great.

    Soak all the header bolts and overpipe bolts to be removed with the penetrating oil for an hour or so. Watch some YouTube vids on how it's done. Then torque everything down to spec (Google is your friend!) If you can do an oil change, you can do this with the right tools and instructions. Just be prepared to take your time and do it right. Use anti seize on all the bolt threads and o2 sensor threads when reinstalling. It'll make life easier for you in the future. Also be prepared to not drive the car for a few days of shit goes wrong... When I did mine on a car with only 5k miles, the primary o2 sensor was found installed crossthreaded into the OEM header from factory... Had to order a new o2 sensor to go into my new header. Shit like this could happen. Good luck!
u/robbob2112b · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I've been using this on the parts that need heatsink compound.... if you go research the spec sheets on the mfg website the thermal transfer properties are similar to artic silver..... the main reason i went this way was the outstanding temp range... most of the CPU pastes top out around 200c with the really good ones hitting maybe 250c.. eventually i plan to print polycarbonate and some of the other really high temp filaments... of course with an all metal hot end and a higher wattage heater cartridge... from all I've read it seems like the 40w heaters have trouble hitting and maintaining temps over 250c

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RMT9LO/