Best automotive lubricants according to redditors
We found 165 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive lubricants. We ranked the 52 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 165 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive lubricants. We ranked the 52 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Belive it or not all Glock uses is a high heat copper anti seize lubricant like you would use when changing the breaks on a car.
I live about 5 miles from the glock plant in Smyrna, GA and have talked to several of there employees over the years about it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006Q7H36?pc_redir=1411030351&robot_redir=1
I got into the habit of coating the hub, rear center of the rotor and front center of the rotor with anti-seize. It isn't perfect, but it has helped to lessen this happening.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE/
I've gotten to using this: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS
Apply with terry cloth rag and wait a few, and wipe off. I have yet to replace any seals, including on a 2 decade old VW that's been parked outside in California sun.
Non-weird link.
www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_qLwRCbBF096K4
I played that game everyday for a year, until I discovered this on the interwebs.
Good call on the seal grease, I use the Honda stuff on my BMW Z3 seals, you can buy it on Amazon:
[Honda Grease](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_reGiDb5BKM8D3 via @amazon)
Don't know if GCs are special, but generally yep, that's exactly it. Just make sure to do it on level ground. Have a fluid pump ready to go though; sometimes you don't have enough space to properly tip a bottle. I use this one for lots of stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK
Don't use WD40 on locks. Powdered graphite should be available at your local hardware store.
Not sure whether or not it would help, just thought I should add what you should use instead of WD40 because CrankyTank did't elaborate.
That is extremely poor advice. All lubricants breakdown over time, and should be changed out with fresh fluids. This probably come from people putting the wrong fluid in. You need to replace it with GL-4 gear oil. Most gear oils you'll find at local auto shops is GL-5 and not safe for the syncros. If you need to change it, get some MT-90 from Amazon. You'll need to buy 4qts. Also, a pump will help out a lot.
Did she see the staining on any other doors? The black grease looks like some kind of graphite dry lube. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Graphite-Lube-Aerosol-Black/dp/B007I9XUD0
Here are a pair of WE Lugers, the left one havint stock externals aside from the painted grips which I detailed in an earlier post, and the right one showing the results of the method detailed in this post. As with many airsoft guns, the satin black finish on the left gun looks nothing like the real thing, and lets down what is otherwise a very convincing replica.
So, here's my method for fixing that cheap paintwork, without having to strip or repaint the entire gun, and without applying bluing chemicals to Chinese mystery metal (with unpredictable results). This technique also works equally well on plastic, and can make plastic guns look much more realistic.
You'll need the following:
-Powdered graphite. You can grind up a pencil in a pinch, but it's much easier to just get powdered graphite lubricant off the Internet or your local hardware store (check by the padlocks).
-A gentle cloth for buffing, and another for applying the graphite. I use rags made from a cut-up cotton T-shirt.
-Matte varnish. I use Testor's Dullcote, but anything matte will do. You can use satin or gloss varnish for a shinier look, but you will not be able to apply additional layers of graphite after sealing.
First, squirt some graphite into a bottlecap, dip your first cloth into it, and use it to rub the graphite into the surface of the gun. If you're working on a large, flat area, you can squirt the graphite directly onto the gun and use the cloth to spread it around. Work the graphite into the surface until it has a uniform tone. Avoid handling the parts with graphite, or it'll come off on your fingers.
Once the gun is fully coated in graphite, you need to seal it to prevent the graphite from rubbing off on your hands or running off with water. Give it a few quick passes with the matte varnish, enough for a solid coat without any patchy areas. You'll notice that this will tone down the shiny metallic effect to a dull grey, this is normal.
Now, you can either call it good, or add another layer of graphite to strengthen the color and shine. The more layers you add, the greyer the gun will get. For this Artillery Luger, I did a second layer of graphite, and then sealed again with varnish.
When you're satisfied with the color and have sealed it for the last time, take your second cloth and rub down all the surfaces you applied the graphite too. Give it a little bit of force and really polish it up. This buffs the matte finish up to a mild satin, giving it that shine that real bluing has and making it look closer to how it did before sealant. If you want it to really shine, you can do a quick shot of satin or gloss varnish too and polish that in. For the Artillery Luger, I just buffed it thoroughly with the rag.
That's all it takes- it's dead simple, with no real room for error, and produces a dramatic improvement in appearance.
Bonus: A Well Webley and AGM MG42, also refinished with this method.
I live overseas. There are a lot of items that Amazon won't ship overseas. Example
Long flexible hose works wonders for those awkward fillings. Something like this.
I use this stuff when I do brake jobs and it seems to work well.
Like this?
There are lots of great YT videos out that show the process and this is the grease I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041S1OUM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've changed the fuel filter 3 times now and I always use a borrowed VCDS. Here are some helpful links.
Message me with any questions.
Yeah, I'm restoring mine for a high school project and It's surprisingly easy, even without any mechanical knowledge, to repair these bikes. They're very simple and you can buy tons of reproduction parts from this website. Just get some metric wrenches, this, this, and download this. Welcome to the club, don't be an asshole.
EDIT: Can you link the CL ad?
Here is a tip for you. Get a six year warranty water heater (if you ever need to buy one), but make it last decades. First watch this, from about the 1:40 mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzecqGyCllU
Guy is replacing the sacrificial anode. On yours, remove it and coat the threads with a anti-seize compound:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO
Then reinstall it. Now use a marker on the tank to show the installation date. Every five years from that point you pop out the old worn-out anode and install a fresh one.
My last tank lasted 32 years, I think. The anode really reduces corrosion to almost nothing.
Powdered graphite lock lubricant. Could be the key is a bit off and the pins in the lock can probably use some lubricant. (Do not use WD-40 or other liquid lubricants, only powdered graphite). Amazon link, but you can get it much cheaper at Walmart or local hardware store
yes, it is normal, you could use grease to reduce friction see this.
In my opinion, the best grease is Nyogel 767A
Another option is to replace, remove or mod the spring.
personally, I like much more the tension on the warthog than the chewing gum feeling of other joysticks.
Hard to beat the price and shipping of Amazon IMO.
That damage occurred while trying to unscrew the nozzle from the heater block- aluminum + steel + heat is a bad combo. Auto mechanics have known about this since they first started seeing aluminum engine blocks. Anti-seize compound is used on spark plugs to prevent this same sort of problem.
The solution (?)
Will try this stuff when I replace the heater block. It's supposed to be good up to 870C.
Ok, so... you really shouldn't do that. The oil will eventually gum up and cause more problems. The correct solution is powdered graphite.
Also, removed a few comments of people being rude about this being obvious. Clearly, they're not so good at this either.
Not just from prusa, pick and choose. URLs for examples.
Digital caliper, 12" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJUBBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extra brass nozzles.
Hardened steel nozzle, 0.4mm to 0.6mm for printing abrasive exotics (wood, glow in the dark, carbon fiber etc)
Print removal tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Locktite blue bolt-fixer (Walmart, Home Depo, Lowes etc) to stop bed sensor from moving.
High temp anti-seize for nozzle threads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053ZS1Z8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Raspberry Pi 3, 5v Pi 2A Power wart, Micro SD card, & Webcam for octoprint monitoring.
Relay board for Pi/octoprint to power up & down printer remotely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1lb of silica gel to keep filament dry.
Filaments, various.
Fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires.
Dedicated smoke alarm.
You can buy 100g of Shin Etsu g-30m for $15 dollars.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484511084&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Shin+Etsu+G30M
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WEKT07SSDX3GN5H49VKM
G-40M is available from focusattack but it's more expensive.
https://www.focusattack.com/shin-etsu-g-40m-silicone-grease-100g/
They all perform the same so its not worth paying the extra $10, and Sanwa themselves said that you can use G-30m on their joysticks just fine.
Shin etsu ALSO makes thermal compound for CPUs but this is NOT the same thing. This is VERY high quality silicone lube.
While the best way is to disassemble the top of the switch, only PCB mount switches can be accessed this way without soldering (a removal tool is on mechanicalkeyboards.com). You can just find something needle nosed or pinhead thin and press the switch down and squeeze a little into each side of the switch. You don't need a lot.
IMO these are way, way easier:
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498616106&sr=8-2&keywords=oil+pump
screws right on to the bottle of oil. pump till it's empty and swap to the next bottle until fluid runs out the fill hole.
I have one of these for each car/fluid type.
Get some penetrating oil and spray the bolts or screws in advance. https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L106-Penetrating-Oil/dp/B00200MR8Q or some other brand is fine
$15.93 via Amazon Prime - Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (Thanks, u/tadfisher)
It's a common topic, but many simply have not come across it. This Shin-etsu is what Japanese OEMs use to keep rubber weather stripping like new. It can rejuvenate stuff you though needed replaced, everyone should have a tube of it and treat yearly to bi-yearly, on any vehicle.
Use gloves, apply a very thin layer, allow to sit for at least an hour. Wipe off excess with moist cloth towel.
Posting this because Tom was recommending the cheap generic stuff.
It's not difficult, you just need the tools to pull your current handguard off and remove the barrel nut (because most handguards comes with their own proprietary barrel nut). Then you'll thread on your new barrel nut, tighten it down to roughly 30ftlbs, install the new handguard, and you're done.
You'll probably need an AR15 armorers wrench, anti-seize/grease of some sort (I like Loctite Anti-Seize, but some people have heartburns over what to use. Something is better than nothing), and a torque wrench. And probably also another inch-lb torque wrench.
As for the quality of the handguard, I've never used that one, so I can't speak for it.
This is a great looking figure. I have Spark Toy's War Within Optimus Prime and he is an amazing figure. Quality is second to none and the engineering is nearly perfect.
One note about this review:
DO NOT USE WD-40 ON A PLASTIC TOY!
Petroleum dissolves plastics and WD-40 isn't a lubricant anyway, it is a solvent. If you have a hinge or slider that is too stiff to safely move, get some powdered graphite. It is a dry lubricant, won't harm plastic and any excess can easily be wiped or brushed away.
Here's the Shin Etsu grease on Amazon. It's actually a Honda part and useful for all kinds of things. It has the consistency of soft butter.
I'm in France too and I bought the Nyogel from Amazon and got it for 35$ (with shipping)
This
Either dry graphite lube like this, available at any Wal-Mart, Target, or auto parts store, or if you want the really good stuff then try something like this molybdenum-based lubricant.
Either way, instead of just applying it to the outside of the hinge like you can with WD-40 (because it's a penetrating oil and will sink into the joints), with either of the above you would want to remove the pins from the hinges, anoint the pins with the lube, and then rehang the door.
At that point you can prepare to enjoy years of squeak-free hinges.
On the other hand, at my house the dreaded previous owner sprayed all the hinges with WD-40. I 100% guarantee they were smooth and silent for days or even weeks afterward.
Then the WD-40 dried in place, created a thin layer of basically lacquer inside the hinge, that layer was then ground into sharp particles of lacquer dust by the moving hinge parts, and those dust particles served as abrasives which ground the interior surfaces of the hinge into metallic dust. Yes, dust. It seeps from every hinge in the house, if you run your finger along the hinge you get metallicized and it won't wash off for days, and boy howdy do they all squeak ridiculously.
Please please please don't ever WD-40 a hinge, unless it belongs to a bad person you don't have the guts to kill.
If all you need is some graphite, and don't care where it comes from, a pencil is mostly graphite, and you can get graphite powder as a lubricant.
Making synthetic graphite requires serious lab gear, AFAIK, they superheat carborundum to produce it.
Yup!
It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.
WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.
If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.
I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.
I don't know if drawing on it with a pencil would work but you can buy powdered graphite, sold as a lubricant for stuck lock cylinders and such, which works like a charm e.g. this one of many on Amazon.
Amazon is ALMOST a Canadian supplier:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y
This is enough for three or four lifetimes...
Only thing magic about it is the dampening effect. If you don't care about smooth drag, like a throttle, there are cheaper solutions.
Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.
How to replace brake pads and rotors
How to replace shock absorbers
How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)
You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...
The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!
I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.
You actually shouldn't use a liquid lubricant on a lock, it will attract and build up dust. Use graphite.
I use coconut oil on most of my knives' moving parts. I usually apply it by disassembling the knife, oiling it, and wiping dry, leaving the slightest of film.
I only started doing that because I sometimes cut food with my folder. If I wasn't cutting food I would use spray silicone or lock lubricant like Lock-Ease Lock lubricant is just graphite suspended in a solution that evaporates leaving the graphite behind. Graphite as a lubricant is great for preventing gunk buildup because it is dry. Oil breaks down and oxidizes over time. It also collects dust which speeds up this process. Not only will this buildup slow down the movement of your moving parts but it stresses the moving parts too. I mean, not much, but it adds up over time. Silicone doesn't oxidize but it can collect dust.
https://www.amazon.com/AUDI-SUNROOF-TRACK-GREASE-LUBRICANT/dp/B006R5QI4Y
Sorry... I've read this several times and I don't really know what you're wanting to do....
I do know that graphite dust isn't poisonous though, it's a very common lubricant, I've used it before amazon.com/Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant
As far as being able to form graphite into shapes, I don't think that's going to work unless you have a high temp furnace and perhaps a hydraulic press....
This is a great write up - love seeing this type of content.
To others thinking about doing this work yourself - it is extremely easy and can be done in the comfort of your driveway with some jack stands. The lift makes your life easier, but it's very doable without. Pay particularly close attention to loosing the the fill bolt before you loosen the drain bolt to save yourself the potential of calling a flatbed to bail you out of that jam.
Here's the fluid pump I bought that works great: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/
Amazon carries it, but any local auto supply store should carry it.
If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.
Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..
Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.
Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.
I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).
I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Graphite-Lube-Aerosol-Black/dp/B007I9XUD0
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GF5GVX3E1NXA9BRC3CRC
It's been on my car for over a week and still tight :). Same Grimmspeed kit too.
I was worried about it slipping but so far so good, not a single movement.
rub the seals of the door with silicone grease (the best is Honda Shin-Etsu Silicone, but any cheap tube of silicone grease would probably do fine). I would imagine that pam would get sticky/tacky after awhile and be counterproductive.
I know some people swear by this stuff to help rejuvenate the rubber. I use this as preventative maintenance on my visible rubber seals, but it definitely won't help restore seals that are already sun-damaged.
I used that corrugated plastic sheeting available at any big box store. It's reasonably inexpensive and easy to install (screws on with a screw+rubber washer).
If you didn't invest in stainless hardware, I advise you to stop now, remove those t-nuts and replace with stainless. You WILL regret it otherwise. Even then, I'd put anti-seize on everything. Outdoor walls take a beating and stripped t-nuts suck.
I have no knowledge of gun specifics, but I do a fair bit of work on motorcycles/cars/etc.
> I found a small amount of lube was necessary to allow the stock to be easily adjusted, but be careful here as grit likes to stick to lube.
That's where I'd typically end up using a graphite lube of some sort. Sprays on wet, drys to actually dry.
Ah I see what you mean now. I can’t recall seeing that for sale anywhere. Is yours leaking or cracked?
When I had a ttop Z and I had a little leak, I bought this grease off Amazon that kind of brought the rubber back to life and softened it up and “thickened” it out if that makes any sense.
Honda Genuine 08798-9013 Silicone Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6NMYBb6YYEP9N
I used a bit of dry graphite lube on the pivot points of my Leatherman when it was new.
De-icer as a few others have stated. Once you get it un-stuck pick up a can of this (auto parts store or Walmart) and get the lock internals coated.
Always had lock freezing issues on my old Miata after snow/ice storms and this did the trick!
https://www.amazon.com/AGS-LE5-Lock-Ease/dp/B000CIJUGA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543500925&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lock+graphite&dpPl=1&dpID=417G7eiU2wL&ref=plSrch
Use a screw driver to pry off the cap. Check youtube to see what I mean.
Of course, you don't need to remove any of this to grease them, you can use any aerosol lubricant that is able to use volatiles as a carrier to deposit the lube into the joint, then evaporates leaving the lube in place.
Silicon spray is perfect for door hinges. Won't leave any visible nastiness either.
https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/silicone-lubricant/
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80070-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000HBM5S2
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y seems in stock but I've used https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9JBBKWHAVF09F98QKWYP in a pinch without issue
Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize
Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance
Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.
I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.
For cleaning use Mineral Spirits. If the letters have a thick coating of ink use a small brass brush with mineral spirits. (odorless mineral spirits are available at every hardware store. It is the safer modern equivalent to Varisol.)
If I am correct and the Smith Corona has a sealed bottom. You want to take the bottom plate off to clean it. Using a dropper or Q-tips put little amounts on all the moving parts and then move them letting excess mineral spirits drip out the bottom. Repeat until the part is clean and moves freely. Wipe gunk off from all the none moving parts.
Traditionally only certain parts of the typewriter are lubricated with 10w machine oil. (Sewing machine oil.) Everyone including me use too much the first time. But even if you use the proper amount dust still sticks to it.
Use Liquid Wrench Teflon spray to lubricate all the moving parts. (It is cheaper to get it from an auto parts store or Wal-Mart.) It works as well as 10w oil and because it is dry dust doesn't stick to it. Spray everywhere, quickly wipe it off anywhere you don't want a coating of white dust.
I recommend the Liquid Wrench because it worked best of all the ones I tried. Do not use the Dupont Teflon spray because its "Patented Bonding," agent means it is much harder to clean from anywhere you don't want it.
Since your car is 15 years old it could very well be that your window guides are rotted and falling apart. I have the Delrin replacement kit from RSpeed and it's awesome. Took me about an hour per door, and that's just because I'm
slowmeticulous. Don't forget to clean everything and regrease all moving parts with ShinEtsu (accept no substitute).Just..not in locks please.
You want this stuff or similar.
The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.
You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.
Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.
Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.
Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.
EDIT: Linkies.
My suggestion is this, since you have no idea how well the car was taken care of or if it was changed at all, change it one time and drive it for a week. Then change it again and see if it helps. From there you can try 3rd party alernative if you want but these transmissions prefer OEM fluid. Not sure on this year but you typically remove the fill bolt first, then the drain bolt. Be sure to get new crush washers and clean off the debris from the drain plug. I use this pump to make it a breeze to get the fluid in with no mess. When the fluid starts to drip out you are done.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505605976&sr=8-3&keywords=Fluid+pump
Get the following stuff to prepare:
Soak all the header bolts and overpipe bolts to be removed with the penetrating oil for an hour or so. Watch some YouTube vids on how it's done. Then torque everything down to spec (Google is your friend!) If you can do an oil change, you can do this with the right tools and instructions. Just be prepared to take your time and do it right. Use anti seize on all the bolt threads and o2 sensor threads when reinstalling. It'll make life easier for you in the future. Also be prepared to not drive the car for a few days of shit goes wrong... When I did mine on a car with only 5k miles, the primary o2 sensor was found installed crossthreaded into the OEM header from factory... Had to order a new o2 sensor to go into my new header. Shit like this could happen. Good luck!
WD-40 is not meant to be used as a general lubricant. It strips most grease off of whatever it is sprayed on. I would use something like silicone spray or electronics grease to stop the squeaking.
Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant
Super Lube(R) Multi-Purpose Grease
Since people are going to tell me I'm an idiot and that WD-40 is too a lubricant here is their own words on it.
WD-40® Myths, Legends & Fun Facts
I use this bio based lube
Thats awesome, you dont need to mangle the cables now.
Unbolt window, pull it out following that guide. Also check out this guide which has some good info to get regulator/motor out:
http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/miata-window-regulator-replacement-manual-power-windows/
There are a bunch of youtube vids that also show how to pull regulator, might be useful to watch a couple to see different explanations/angles/techniques.
You should be able to unbolt the regulator and the window motor, unclip the clips that hold the cables to the door, then remove both together thru the hole by your speaker.
Pry open the motor case and see if your wheel/cable is screwed. If it is, the quickest fix is to buy something like that amazon link below. I have seen other articles where they just replace the plastic wheel and get a cable made at a motorcycle shop. Buying the part was simplest so thats what I did.
Also, go ahead and order this shin etsu grease:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=sxts_k2p-hero-vn-pb_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8477664412492203526&pd_rd_wg=HdW1I&pf_rd_r=NMVKGMV6Z0D5G0F3W4ME&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00GD49GTS&pd_rd_w=kyo5x&pf_rd_i=shin+etsu+grease&pd_rd_r=1de7bf26-7283-4357-bbce-bffd9e7018c7&ie=UTF8&qid=1527641297&sr=1
Use that on your window channels, the slot the window bushing slides in, etc.
You can also replace your window bushing w/ a delrin bushing - I haven't done this yet.
https://mossmiata.com/window-bush-improved-replcmt-delrin-2
I just cleaned up my existing bushing and lubed it up with shin etsu grease.
My windows aren't perfect yet but they go up and down now, I'm going to tear into both sides in the future and clean them up/replace bushings.
If the lock on your house/car is sticky, or hard to work, try a few simple things. Grab some Graphite and shoot it into the keyhole. Also try some wd-40 in the latch. This will solve most problems that are not due to mechanical failure and cost much less than replacing / calling a locksmith. If your key won't work, try graphite in the keyway as well as tapping the lock with a hammer while working the key.
Here's a copy/paste from an earlier comment reply I made about 2 months back.
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I read on some subreddit that a lot from Creality aren't always screwed in. Mine took about two weeks to start showing issues. What I did was unscrew the two side screws, unscrew the heat break (metal tube) and added anti-sieze to the hotend to lubricate everything. Here's the kind I bought Be careful to use gloves as I guess it can cause people to have reactions if that gets on your skin. It's basically a nickel powder in a goo that's good up to like 2000F or something like that.
I fully disconnected the heater and thermister and used a heat gun heat up the block, then screwed in the nozzle all the way, then screwed in the heatbreak to meet it. I let it cool and reassembled everything, and redid the nozzle hot after unscrewing it about half a turn and pushing the PTFE tube into it, then tightened it back up. After that and replacing the couplers, didn't leak again.
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You probably don't need the anti-sieze unless you're having trouble unscrewing/screwing the heat break.
Have you tried lubricating it with dry graphite?
My ignition cylinder would bind too. All lock cylinders need to be lubricated periodically. Like once a year. Hammering it will only cause more damage
Those work too.
I prefer this type: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK
I got this one https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y
I wouldn't be spraying WD-40 onto the window itself. I would spray it on the little rubber track that the window follows as it rolls up. I would spray WD-40 into the crevasse.
Maybe I should just use this or a similar product?
Thanks.
http://www.amazon.com/AGS-LE5-Lock-Ease/dp/B000CIJUGA
(Google Liquid graphite lube)
Everyone's had this happen to them at least once, haha.
Fun fact though, if you happen to have it around, silicon spray like this will disperse the bubbles very quickly and ease cleanup.
try this
http://www.amazon.com/AGS-LE5-Lock-Ease/dp/B000CIJUGA
I also forgot that if you're working on a old bike like that, go and get some Liquid Wrench. Use it on all your rusty nuts and bolts before you start working on something.
Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MftqDbE9SZSSF
https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/exhaust/section/catalytic-converters/universal/yes?N=4294948820%2B4294900422%2B4294900407%2B4294951518&PageSize=100&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending
Bonus, find one you like and look for it on amazon (make measurements first to see how big you need). Usually a couple bucks cheaper and Prime shipping makes it doubly worth it. Take it to an exhaust shop if you don't have a welder. Shoulnd't take too long to install. O2 sensors can be a pain to remove if they've never been removed (rust). When installing the new one, put antiseize on the threads to make future removal easier.
I just replaced my stock hotend with a V6 clone. It works great (although the mount I have has no part cooling fan anymore). You can easily swap an entire heat break, block, and nozzle. You might need to use a 1.5mm wrench to adjust the ptfe tube and square nuts in order for you to have the same height offset if you're going with the old heatsink mount.
Do yourself a favor for future you. Buy some Anti Seize and get a little bit on the threads of the nozzle and heat break. (caution, this stuff is MESSY! you'll have silver stuff everywhere!)
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE
If you really want it: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/
I heard it's a common issue and you can get this lubricant for it to fix the issue.
That will work, but I prefer aerosol sprays for my hockey gear. It's all chemically identical. Just spray it on and wipe it down with a rag.
Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant, 10.25 oz. net Aerosol Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM5S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Fmb7wbVNP1F5A
You are correct. This is why in modern semi-automatic pistol owner's manuals it explicitly states not to remove the copper colored substance from the rails.
Typical lubricant is this here: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38650-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0006Q7H36
and this kind of graphite lubricant? https://www.amazon.com/Panef-Corp-Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant/dp/B0016GZQ60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498581402&sr=8-1&keywords=graphite
I would try some graphite powdered lubricant like this product: https://www.amazon.com/American-grease-stick-graphite-lubricant/dp/B000K7TOLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3LR5ACS70C943&keywords=graphite+lubricant&qid=1557155482&s=gateway&sprefix=graphite&sr=8-3
It's a whopping $1.02 cheaper here.
My local window guy out here looked at your picture and suggested that this was a bad idea. His reasoning was that the frame that you want to attach it to is pretty thin. He is worried that if you apply too much force, you'd pull the frame away from the glass, ruining the seal. Then the glass would be loose, and it could leak in a storm. Not to mention condensation between the panes.
If the reason you want to do this is because it takes too much effort to open the window, I suggest that you vacuum all the dirt and debris out of the window track, then use some spray lubricant to make it easier to operate:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80070-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000HBM5S2
Have you tried a little graphite into the lock to maybe lube it enough to loosen the cylinder?
For reference, I mean powder graphite like this:
powder graphite
Why did you link to the non-prime listing?
Happy Prime Day
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L106-Penetrating-Oil/dp/B00200MR8Q
Thanks, I'll try the graphite powder first. Will any graphite powder do? I looked up this. I will probably try to get a remote as well. Will a remote for the car work right away once programmed or does a car need to have a system installed? Thanks for the help!
This one? https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L512-Lubricant-CERFLON/dp/B000CPJLE4
Yup found it on amazon.ca
Silicone grease from amazon.ca
High temp urea grease I believe it is called this is the stuff Honda recommends at least, http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9002-Urea-Grease/dp/B00BFDFYKW
You can go over the rubber with a silicone lubricant on a cloth. May help the wind noise.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS
Didnt know this one, Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y
Lift the jeep as high as you can. Rest frame on jack stands and let the axle droop. Then hit it with one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK
I will never try and fill the rear end with out one again
I've been using this on the parts that need heatsink compound.... if you go research the spec sheets on the mfg website the thermal transfer properties are similar to artic silver..... the main reason i went this way was the outstanding temp range... most of the CPU pastes top out around 200c with the really good ones hitting maybe 250c.. eventually i plan to print polycarbonate and some of the other really high temp filaments... of course with an all metal hot end and a higher wattage heater cartridge... from all I've read it seems like the 40w heaters have trouble hitting and maintaining temps over 250c
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RMT9LO/
You could try Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. I dont have any experience with it. But reading some Amazon reviews, it sounds like it would work.
Live and learn, right? You should be able to get the glue off using a penetrating oil. Liquid wrench has good reviews, and won't eat the paint off your car.
This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.
Hmmm, have you tried spraying some Liquid Wrench or other similar product on it?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ZZWNYG