(Part 2) Best aquarium test kits according to redditors
We found 1,407 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium test kits. We ranked the 64 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
These are the strips used for the Alpha Track 2, a glucose device for dogs and cats. I think the butterfly is to signal that it's for animals. I recognized them instantly because my little dog is diabetic and I have to take her glucose once a day with these things.
https://www.amazon.com/Abbott-AlphaTRAK-Blood-Glucose-Strips/dp/B007TL2ULA
Equipment List
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Chemicals and Food
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OnePlus 2 Manual Camera Settings
For those interested my light is an AI Prime LED set to the 14k spectrum.
I flipped through the 23 pages of "Pet supplies" and selected every fish-related item I saw. Times are in EDT.
Prime Day Fish Deals:
API Products:
Filters:
Tanks:
Etc.:
I guess you could say it's a meme, it's original intent is to comedically understate something. It's like the equivalent of saying "Nice weather we're having, eh?" in the middle of a rainstorm. It's like shorthand for saying "That seems like a good card/play." when they already know that it was an excellent card/play. When used correctly you would hear this most often when someone gets unexpectedly blown out.
For example, let's say both you and your opponent have lethal attackers, but your opponent gets to attack first and thus would win. They swing with everything and you cast [[Settle the Wreckage]]. They look through their hand, look at their board, sigh, and say "Yeah, seems good!"
There will be times when you hear people say this when it seems like the situation doesn't call for it, like when you play a turn 1 creature. In this case they may be using the meme in a meta sense; a turn 1 creature is literally just "good," and by using this phrase they're making fun of how the phrase is usually used ironically to indicate something much better than good. Another example would be playing a land on turn 1 and passing, saying seems good is a joke at that point.
Alternatively they may be a whiny crybaby and actually think that if their opponent plays a turn 1 creature then the game is practically over and they might as well concede. If you're not sure you should pick up some of these to help you determine which situation you're in.
Yes and no. Let's break down those kits:
Saltwater Master:
pH kit: kinda useless IMO. I don't test pH and if I did I'd just get a cheap pH pen or some pH paper really.
Ammonia: Useful for monitoring a cycle. Not necessary for doing so (I cycle without testing it personally) but for a beginner it can be helpful
Nitrite: Again, useful for monitoring a cycle but probably the most useless of the three nitrogen tests given the low toxicity of Nitrite in marine environments. Still decent for beginners to have as a way to get a better understanding of the nitrogen cycle.
Nitrate: Probably the most useful of the three Nitrogen tests for long term as you will likely test Nitrate a lot. Again it's not necessary and many people don't test nitrate in their established mature tanks but when you're a rookie and posting threads about "Why am I getting cyano" you'll be asked for levels of nitrate and such.
Reef Master:
Calcium: If you keep stony corals you need to have proper calcium levels. You can probably wait on this one until you add them.
Carbonate Hardness (Total Alkalinity): Very useful even if you don't keep stonies. Again not a requirement depending on your tank and your water change schedule but I'd argue this is the second most important reading besides specific gravity.
Phosphate: Useless in the API test kit in my opinion, very poor scale and color for any reasonable accuracy.
All said these cost you what? $50. Okay that's not terrible but you might be able to pick and choose test kits for early on and get some slightly better ones and just add to your collection later. Maybe something like this Red Sea https://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-ARE21525-Marine-Aquarium/dp/B00BAVVD6I?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 which costs $50 ish and doesn't include calc or phos but does include the three nitrogen for getting through your cycle and a better alkalinity kit.
You can use bottled distilled from the market/WalMart/Target, BUT you must check it's TDS with a meter like this, which should be 0, AND check it for copper with a test kit, as some older distilleries may still have copper pipes (but not likely IME). Whether you need an RO or RODI unit to make your own water is based on your tap water TDS. If it's higher, a RODI is recommended to get your water to 0 TDS rather than just a RO unit. I'd suggest getting a TDS meter before anything else and seeing what's up with your tap water.
OK. My suggestion? Get a 40G Breeder from Petco/Petsmart. One of them frequently has a $1/1g sale, so you can get one cheap.
 
Next, you'll most likely want a protein skimmer. They keep excess waste and proteins out of the water and prevent nutrients from staying in your tank (and thereby allowing algae to grow). This one is internal and has good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Protein-Skimmer-Counter-Current-Medium/dp/B0002APZ8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468385411&sr=1-1&keywords=protein+skimmer
 
You will need an air pump and air stone for that one, but they're like $10-$20.
 
Now, a heater. I'd suggest going with Eheim, they're rock solid. I have two of these in my larger tank for redundancy, both will be controlled by an aquarium controller eventually. https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003SNMMQQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468385694&sr=1-1&keywords=eheim+heater+125w
 
Lastly, you will need a way to move water. Get two of these at $35 a piece. https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Evolution-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B0036RXO3O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468385948&sr=1-2&keywords=powerhead&refinements=p_89%3AHydor
So far, we're at the following with just equipment:
Tank: $40
Protein Skimmer: $34
Air Pump: $20
Heater: $25
Powerhead: $35 (x2) = $70
Total: $189.
 
Now you'll need to factor in other things, like consumables!
Salt: Red Sea salt is my personal favorite. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-ARE11220-Aquarium-55-Gallon/dp/B000YIYTIC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468386197&sr=1-1&keywords=red+sea+salt
This jug will do 55g of water. $32.
RO/DI Water: My LFS sells it for $0.50 a gallon. Not sure what you can get it for, but I assume its similar. You should absolutely NOT use tap water with a conditioner. The conditioners remove chlorine, but they do not remove phosphates and other heavy metals in your water. Let's assume you get 45 gallons (tank + 5 gallons to replace 1 week of evaporated water.) $22.50.
Assuming you do a 10% water change every two weeks, your monthly water usage will be 54+10=30 gallons of water a month @$0.50/g, $0.576 per H20 gallon of salt 30 gallons = 15+17.28 = $32.28 a month in water after initial setup.
 
Consumables:
Water: $22.50
Salt: $32
Water Maintenance / month: $32.28
 
You will lastly need some testing equipment. Get a hydrometer to measure your salinity (I keep mine @ 1.026), a thermometer (mine is 79F), and a test kit to measure your parameters. Don't bother with API's test kit, they're not to accurate. Red Sea makes a good starter kit: https://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-ARE21525-Marine-Aquarium/dp/B00BAVVD6I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468386757&sr=1-1&keywords=red+sea+test+kit @ $39.76
 
Now you just need rock and sand. Good luck!
let me preface this with, i highly recommend you drill your tanks and turn the 10g into a sump. sumps are by far the best filtration for saltwater tanks. i feel like the cost of pumps, plumbing, and the glass/acrylic would come to about $100+ but it really its the best in terms of saltwater filtration. id look up a few guides on like drilling tanks and making sumps and see if its for you.
If not, you could use your aquaclear with sponges and filter floss (no need for biomedia, maybe carbon now and then though) as mechanical filtration.
the heater should be fine but you need a really reliable one. a lot of people like eheim jager or cobalt neotherm as they have good reliability as a temp swing or spike, while would be ok for a lot of freshwater fish and plants, can kill corals easily. yours should be fine if you want to stick with it though.
You are not going to need or want that canister. they have no place in saltwater as they are just nitrate factories.
So heres a few basic things youre gonna want:
red sea test kit - $40. the api freshwater actually works for salt if you have it, but red sea is more accurate.
the red sea foundation test kit is good if you want corals and stuff to test your kh, Ca, and Mg. - ~$50 - some people also use salifert test kits. up to you which one you wanna do.
hanna phosphate checker $50- down the line youre gonna want one if you do corals. a lot of people use it. i dont even have mine yet but good to keep an eye on as phosphates are pretty important to monitor in your reef.
rodi system - ~$140. this is super important . you could buy your saltwater premixed from your lfs but that will add up after a while. with this you hook it up under a sink to make rodi water (similar to distilled) and use that to mix your saltwater.
salt $75 for 175gallons of saltwater worth - red sea is seen as the best for corals but you can use the instant ocean sea salt as well. red sea just has better nutrients for coral growth. `
powerheads - honestly like $50 for two koralia 425's to $500+ for high end. id suggest this set of two jebao sw4's. they are wavemakers and you can control the flow and waves. they alternate on and off to make a current which fish and corals really like. this is like $100.
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On to rock and sand, these are your biological filtration and where all the bacteria live. for sand you want probably 1.5-2" of sand unless you plant to do a deep sand bed (look it up for more info) and you want 1-1.5lbs of rock per gallon. all live rock and sand is more expensive than going like mostly dry rock and dry sand and adding a tiny bit of live. doing this will mean that you have to wait for the bacteria on the live rock to spread throughout all the other rock and sand. in larger systems its a LOT cheaper this way but as my tank is small i went all live from the start.
live sand ~$40-50 - you can probably find it cheaper local. amazon marks sand up high cuz of shipping cost. 30lbs will probably give you a good depth. you could also do dry sand for slightly cheapr
live rock- this depends on where you live. around me the stores sell it for $6-7 a lb but if i go on craigslist i can find it for like $3 a lb. id look around tbh and see what you can find.
dry rock on the other hand can be found pretty cheap for like $2-3 a lb. like it said, i think its a bit slower but def cheaper to do dry vs live.
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this next part is dependent on whether or not you plan to do corals, which ill assume you are (cuz who doesnt want corals?!?!)
a light: there are SO much variety for reef lights. you can do t5, led, metal halide, and so much more. the light also depends on what type of corals you want to do and their light requirements.
id probably suggest something like a mars aqua if you want to go cheap. you power the whites and blues on a separate times so you can have em on two timers. id look around for advice on lighting schedules and such like this. the light is $100 and you are gonna want to find a way to hang it btw.
if you want to do high end lights, look into something like the aid prime hd or even a kessil a160.
always check ebay/craigslist cuz you can find some good deals for these on there!
if you dont do corals, honestly whatever light to light the tank up works.
if i missed anything, someone else chime in or ill add it later if i remember
depending on the size of your tank you may be able to get away with the Tunze Osmolator nano. i think its rated up to 55 gallons.
Sure thing! Here's a list of the main equipment:
Lighting - Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights
Light Risers - OEM FINNEX LIGHT RISERS FITS PLANTED+, RAY2, FUGERAY, ETC.
Filter - EHEIM Classic 250
Co2 - Tank / Diffuser / Drop Checker
Heater - EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater
Addon - Finnex Breeder Box with Light
First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.
Planning on purchasing:
Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250
Light: LED - Included with tank
Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21
Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18
Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12
Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7
Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4
Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26
That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)
Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.
Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.
https://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/chemicals/copper.pdf
WHO says if it is above 1.3 mg/liter it has to be reported to the EPA, so anything less and you are safe. You can test your water yourself using an aquarium copper test kit. They're sold on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-MultiTest-Copper-Test-Kit/dp/B0002A5XGO/
and probably at your local aquarium/pet store. The one I linked has a really good sliding color scale so you get more 0.1 values than other test kits which just give you only like 4 color values.
Get this! https://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-Aiptasia-X-Eliminator-2-02-Ounce/dp/B007TUZH7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499649659&sr=8-1&keywords=aptasia+killer
It comes in a little metal syringe that you hold under the water and poke it with it and inject some killing liquid! It's actually a good time.
Any simple aquarium type chlorine test will work. Usually comes in strips or liquid test.These are cheap relatively.
You can get cheap test strips online. These are the ones I've used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053PQL8M/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They don't test kh or gh. I try to cut each strip in half so I can get twice the use out of them.
The gold standard is the API test kit. I have a small 10gallon and don't feel like shelling out all that money for one. And I would guess that you might be in a similar boat.
Edit: I would agree with the others about temperature. They should be happy in whatever temperature your house is it. Provided that you don't keep it incredibly cold in the winter.
You lower nitrates and amonia with water changes. Like someone else said, you can just use a cup to do a quick change. Shrimp are a bit sensitive so I would try to keep your water changes to about 25% to avoid large swings in parameters.
I wasn't getting very good plant growth and had lots of algae problems until I got a drop checker. I guess i suck at counting bubbles in the bubble counter. Life in my tank has been great since I got one.
This is the one I picked up. The suction cup on it sucks balls tho. I have to push it back in every couple of days. This one may be a better option.
I saw the solenoid was listed as "8.99" and I was like WHAT, I WILL TAKE 10.
Typo, I gotcha. $84.99. Yarr.
Setup looks okay.
Two suggestions:
I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU00529-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B005DGJEGC - I find it disperses the gas a lot better than a diffuser. Also, it's an inline thing, so it's in the cabinet under your tank and doesn't look ugly.
I have a 40b too, and a 10 lb tank. I have to fill it about every 6 months or so. Costs about $23 where I am, just to give you a base point.
Good job, enjoy!
*Edit: Oh, forgot to mention. If you go the reactor route, you'll need a bubble counter. Also, get a drop checker to ensure levels of cO2 in your tank are good.
Bubble counter: https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K
Drop checker: https://smile.amazon.com/Aquatic-Glass-Checker-MONITOR-sakkara/dp/B00OO2FUFK
It's this one https://www.amazon.com/Sera-USA-43289-Aqua-Test-Reagent/dp/B003XJAZDW
Copper Test kit
You will want to use a small siphon. And don't dig into the substrate. Hover just above it.
Copper shouldn't be an issue unless you are using ferts with lots of copper... or you overdose ferts. iirc, Seachem has trace amounts of copper, not enough to cause issues unless you use the entire bottle at once.
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals (API) Replacement Test Tube (6 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4NGMM8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_-uljDb2WPN61F
If you want, you can purchase a 20oz paintball tank, buy an adapter, drop checker, tubing and use that. Or you can just spend 300-400 for the actual machine.
My 20oz paintball tank has lasted me about 1.5 months before refilling.
http://www.amazon.com/U-P-Aqua-UA-148-Simple-Regulator/dp/B005VS1GD6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Interstate-Pneumatics-WRCO2-5A4-Paintball-Adapter/dp/B00I2UMZ2Q?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Pure-Energy-40020-Empire-20oz/dp/B0008G2WAW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Glass-Drop-Checker-MONITOR/dp/B00OO2FUFK?ie=UTF8&keywords=drop%20checker&qid=1458869676&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4
Sure! The prices are a bit different as I was timing what I bought when the prices were low or refurbs.
Tank
Media basket(absolute must have)
Auto top off
Powerhead
Heater
Temp Controller, Fan, and Gooseneck
Light, and Mount
Upgraded return pump
This one is similar to what the OP has. You need pH solution and 4DKH to put inside the bulb. If you don't mind waiting you can get this one shipped from Hong Kong for $2. This is the more typical drop checker style you see on the subreddit. You can find the ball shaped ones shipped from Asia for very little as well. Many drop checkers come with directions suggesting you mix tank water with pH solution. Do NOT do this if you want it to be accurate.
I believe it, I've seen some huge ones before. It's actually spelled aiptasia. This should help you out. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007TUZH7U/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-3669093-3118621
I looked at your items and the solenoid you have is the same as mine which I鈥檝e used for over a year. Make sure that it will attach to the tank you want without an adapter. As far as tanks go. I got a 5 pound tank from a local welding supply it was over $100 initially but the CO2 lasted a year and when it finally ran out it was less than $20 to swap for a full one. Finally I went through 3 drop checkers like the one you link to they are really fragile. I liked his one way better
Glass CO2 Drop Checker for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUDDMVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SdxRBb5Y68YKV
Sure, I'll do what I can! I have a 20lb CO2 tank hooked up to an Aquatek regulator, with a bubble counter and CO2 reactor (breaks up the bubbles into very small bubbles) connected to the output (spray bar) of the Rena canister filter. I use a drop checker to see if the CO2 level is where it should be, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CCMTXK/ref=asc_df_B077CCMTXK5476824/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B077CCMTXK&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242019590609&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13296317174549204695&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009658&hvtargid=pla-399605872036
I wish there was a better way to gauge CO2 other than bubble counters and a drop checker, but I don't know of any.
I run the CO2 on a timer during the day, and it cuts off when the lights go out.
There's so much info about adding CO2, but my favorite place for advice is the plantedtank.net forum.
My dad has diabetes, and he gives me the white air tight containers his test strips come in to store my bud on the go. They look real similar to these ones:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TL2ULA/ref=psdc_3762031_t2_B004DJYJJM?th=1
They work great, so if you know anyone who has diabetes you can ask them about what type of container their test strips come in.
tested the hot one now, its atleast a 40ppm or higher, within the 40-80ppm, its pretty hard to tell the colour with this kit or im blind https://www.amazon.co.uk/API-NITRATE-Freshwater-Saltwater-Aquarium/dp/B002DVVICS
I think that is to small. Personally when I had my qt tank (turned into a real tank haha) I used a 20 gallon marineland kit. I think it was 100$ it needs to be big enough for all your fish to be able to live not stressed out. You could attempt a solution that is not copper ( may work but may not ) in your DT. My LFS uses herbtana when they can't copper treat a tank. Seem like ok stuff, I've used it in my 40b DT and all my corals where fine (never used it for ich). but I know lots of people hate all solutions other than copper.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00345XZBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419736741&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=415tOR1fboL&ref=plSrch
Copper is the best bet but takes a lot of set up plus it won't be cycled. You could use 10-15 gallons from your DT and use that as a 50-75% water change on it. Just to get the cycle going. If you go with copper use this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025K0QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419736917&sr=8-1
And you will need a test kit to test copper levels
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002A5XGO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419736982&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=410jvSfViHL&ref=plSrch
I would start off with the test kits and watch for a week or two to see what your baseline nitrate/phosphate levels are. If you're already keeping fish, or your tap water already contains phosphates, you may not need to dose as frequently or at all. In particular, if you have a ton of fish and not so many plants, you'll probably have an excess of nutrients that need to be removed through water changes.
Phosphate test kit
Master test kit, which includes nitrate test. Ammonia/nitrite are most useful when first cycling your tank, so if your tank is otherwise stable, you could just buy a single nitrate test kit.
If after testing for a while it looks like you need to supplement, then you can look into alternative means for acquiring ferts in your country.
There are at-home tests available for Phosphates and Silicates (there's two, but the first one has one review and the Seachem one has mixed reviews!) Probably you best bet
API makes a copper test kit, and it is fairly inexpensive. Also, have you by chance tested the water that you have caught them in? If there is too huge of a difference in parameters, you may need more than an hour to acclimate them.
[here](API COPPER TEST KIT 90-Test Aquarium Water Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JDWH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qOYNAbB97T5HY) is the copper test kit. I鈥檝e never personally dealt with copper but I know some common fish foods contain it, so check the ingredients on whatever you feed your betta and if it does contain copper, find a new fish food that doesn鈥檛. If there is a copper problem and the food isn鈥檛 the problem, I would use [this](Seachem Cuprisorb 100ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002A5VWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uUYNAbZ4XEGGW) to remedy it. Also I highly recommend investing in an all round ammonia/nitrite/nitrate water testing kit such as [this one](API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8UYNAbMYN6RVP) if you don鈥檛 already have one.
Is there a list of ingredients?
if it contains sodium nitrate AND sodium nitrite it's #2
if it only contains sodium nitrite it's #1
If not, maybe you can use an aquarium test kit to test for the presence of Nitrates.
https://www.amazon.ca/API-Fishcare-LR1800-Nitrate-Test/dp/B002DVVICS
Yup:
https://www.amazon.com/API-NITRATE-Freshwater-Saltwater-Aquarium/dp/B002DVVICS/
Have you checked out the Sera Aqua Test Box?
W眉rdest du dieses Set empfehlen oder w眉rden Teststreifen f眉r den Start vielleicht reichen?
I'm thinking of getting these do you think they'd be useful?
The Tetra 6-in-1 EasyStrips do not have ammonia, but made sure to purchase the separate ammonia test strips. I will invest in an API freshwater master test kit once these strips run out... or maybe before then if I have some extra cash. Thanks for your advice!
I have tetra strips (https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-EasyStrips-Aquarium-Strips-100-Count/dp/B0053PR7P8?th=1), nitrite was basically white meaning 0 which I thought was weird considering I changed water last Tuesday so it's been a week.
If you are using the test strips they have you might not be as accurate as a test that uses mixing chemicals with the water by hand. I use the API saltwater test kit
and I use the API Reef Master Test Kit
What good is a tank without a regulator and accessories? If someone is making the jump, I've got everything they'll need.
Bubble counter/check valve is $8 new.
Fluval bubble counter is only a couple bucks.
Fluval diffuser is
only $5.
Drop checker (which i forgot to mention) is $14 new.
CO2 proof tubing is $10 new, but granted what I've got left is a little cut up.
And each bottle of Flourish is $10 new, and mine are all nearly full.
To get all of it brand new would be ~$300 and you'd have to run all over the place to track it down. If you wanna make an offer, I'll accept anything reasonable.