(Part 2) Best automotive brake system parts according to redditors

> the hubs stay brown forever. :(

I've had good results with plated rotors like these :

https://www.amazon.com/Power-JBR1394EVC-Evolution-Geomet-Coated-Brake/dp/B07CPGCKRS

The braking surface wears off obviously but the hub and outer rim stay uncorroded (hub stays better for longer, obviously)

https://www.amazon.com/2014-2017-Mazda-Front-Rotors-Ceramic/dp/B072HJVYHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1574509579&s=automotive&sr=1-4&vehicle=2014-80-1114-1395--1-6-5-19661-1994-1-1-4786--2&vehicleName=2014+Mazda+6#immersive-view_1574509658724
These are the ones I got a month ago and replaced due the stock ones warping. No longer have the problem but not really sure how much better they are since I drive mostly highway at night and don't need to hard stop. I guess any new pads and rotor will be better than the ones you have on right now.

Slotted and drilled rotors are worse than blank rotors for street use. MAYBE slotted if you were tracking the car. Never buy drilled (they crack). Just buy cheap blank rotors.

Front pads
https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-QuickStop-ZD635-Ceramic-Front/dp/B00180I74W/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=ceramic+brake+pads&pd_rd_r=f97ed9a6-07ec-440e-8460-f912a4f6c3e1&pd_rd_w=xxBH4&pd_rd_wg=vPkDs&pf_rd_p=69d18130-6e8f-49ee-b708-7afee8d6d397&pf_rd_r=HRKV71292J51925EAE8W&qid=1554992971&s=automotive&sr=1-18&vehicle=1994-80-1110-20--8-1-7-5702-3882-1-1-298--&vehicleName=1994+Mazda+Miata

Rear pads
https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-QuickStop-ZD636-Ceramic-Disc/dp/B0014BBNNM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ceramic+brake+pads+wagner&pd_rd_r=373b47ee-2c0d-4017-be00-577f6f8a35bc&pd_rd_w=Il8Mx&pd_rd_wg=NJ11c&pf_rd_p=69d18130-6e8f-49ee-b708-7afee8d6d397&pf_rd_r=90XTA5125QR7262MHJ7P&qid=1554993021&s=automotive&sr=1-3&vehicle=1994-80-1110-20--8-1-7-5702-3882-1-1-298--&vehicleName=1994+Mazda+Miata

Rotors
https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Rotor-Front-Mazda-Miata/dp/B07KQM6W75/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=brake+rotors&pd_rd_r=661e0e3c-a09e-4279-a02a-a0d8f78cf825&pd_rd_w=x0PSc&pd_rd_wg=RvpoT&pf_rd_p=69d18130-6e8f-49ee-b708-7afee8d6d397&pf_rd_r=XP4B4M74B9Y4BN8E3ZE4&qid=1554993038&s=automotive&sr=1-3&vehicle=1994-80-1110-20--8-1-7-5702-3882-1-1-298--&vehicleName=1994+Mazda+Miata

i like to use a russel speed bleeder bag helps with the mess. I also have the russell speed bleeders and the stalbus banjo bolt bleeders.

For the DIY brake fluid flush job, I've found these two products to be super useful:

• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CP79C7S/ - acts as a big reservoir for the brake fluid
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA/ - catch bottle with one way valve to prevent air bubbles
  
  I can do a full flush so easily now which happens a few times a year as I track my car.

I got these. You will need to reuse your factory hardware bolts. The ones supplied are cheap and will strip out before tightening to spec. It’s a shame considering the calipers are about $100 each. Other than that, they are nice and shiny after about 6 months and driving around the beach a few weeks. No rust. I paired them with drilled and slotted rotors. My girl will stop on a dime now. I have 180,000 miles and it was just giving up when I would brake. Replacing the rotors, brakes, and calipers made it stop and look like new.

For 2005-2014 Ford Mustang Rear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFQT5KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/Roll-Copper-Nickel-Brake-Tubing/dp/B0786PHGQ6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRVCPV

Get those and some new brass (not steel) fittings, and give the shop the finger.

Thanks for the clarification! I have an 01 and just did the tundra swap a few weeks ago, didn’t remember if there was a difference between the years.

PS if anyone is reading this, here is the best deal for the tundra swap kit, $180 with everything you need for the biggest tundra calipers. Put over 5k miles on this kit so far and everything is great

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GH8TQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_RB2jDb0VHKEKR

Its half of a distributor wrench. It's missing a double female 3/8 sleeve and another matching wrench end.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072M56BVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xBtMDbQFW0T83

My guess is that this is what you're looking for, assuming your soft lines are -3AN.

it says 3.7V on the battery pack, the link is:

https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell%C2%AE-5000mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Polymer/dp/B07988X97K/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=LiPoly+Battery+3.7V+5000mAh&qid=1558575151&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr2

and can these handle 6V battery pack on the out?

https://www.amazon.com/Setrouyo-LDTR-WG0114-Charging-Protection-Functions/dp/B07RZ6TYF7/ref=sr_1_290?keywords=arduino+lithium+battery&qid=1558571474&s=gateway&sr=8-290

Just to clarify, is it because you dont have enough room because you cant compress the piston(s) on one side? If so you can try either a set of piston pliers to loosen it off an see if you can press it in.

Draper Expert 30838 240 mm Motorcycle Brake Piston Pliers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00487UO1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6zcWCb98RWM7B

Or try a piston compresser

KESOTO Wheel Disc Brake Pad Installation Caliper Piston Compressor Press Spreader Seperator https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MFVDSG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QAcWCb7W5EGAC

If neiter of these work and it is properly seized you will need to either rebuild the caliper and replace all the seals or replace the caliper entirely.

Could you get the same exact car you have now for $3k? If not, then it's better to pay that and keep the car.

> get the exterior damage fixed

If it's cosmetic you could consider not getting it fixed, even if you do file an insurance claim.

> new brakes & tires to pass inspection, labor & sales tax is $3000

Brakes and tires alone should be under $1000. You can get tires for under $100 each. You can get a full brake set for under $200 (but you'll pay double that in a shop) and that is about 2-3 hours labor. I wouldn't factor this into your decision to purchase because you may have to spend this money even if you get a different car. All cars require maintenance.

rears, a bit cheaper actually:

https://www.amazon.com/StopTech-125-33113-Premium-Brake-Rotor/dp/B008CRMJ4S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=125.33113&qid=1562694895&s=gateway&sr=8-1

fronts are still 96$ and i can't find much for them.

https://www.amazon.com/StopTech-Centric-15-18-Premium-Front/dp/B07DN7Q2LC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=125.33144&qid=1562695039&s=automotive&sr=1-1

here is the stoptech website if you want to verify PN yourself:

https://www.apcautotech.com/automotive-and-light-truck-search/2017/volkswagen/gti?page=2

"exc performance package" means excludes. so you want the ones that just say "performance package"

Yeah got these on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XMH91B7/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_4uQ3DbR9T3SX8

Hopefully they'll perform at least as well as the stock brake system, guess we'll see

Stock callipers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVR934C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_467zDbNKJF2JC

Make sure you get the right one, there's one for Japan made and another for Mexico made.

You'd probably notice it more in the feel of the brake pedal. It could start to feel spongy. If you are losing fluid due to corrosion causing a leak, you'd probably feel a spongy pedal as well as the pedal traveling closer to the floor than it used to.

Also, if the caliper was leaking, you'd see evidence of it. You can also check the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it's at the correct level. If it's really low, you may have a leak somewhere.

There are really cheap $10 brake fluid testers on Amazon. You pretty much open the fluid reservoir under the hood and stick the tester into the fluid. It will tell you whether the fluid is good or if it has too much water in it. Red light bad, green light good. It's that simple.

https://www.amazon.com/ITEQ-Liquid-Tester-Indicators-Calibrated/dp/B076SC377J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=brake+fluid+tester&qid=1557170376&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/beler-Parking-Sensor-Retainer-89348-34020/dp/B075XMDXNC

$200
https://www.amazon.com/Front-Eline-Replacement-Rotors-Ceramic/dp/B07256W3RN/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1511658296&sr=8-11&keywords=mazda+6+brake+kit+2014+rear

You don't have to buy a kit, you can just buy the rotors and get the brakes from Auto Zone for instance. I understand wanting everything all together, I did my brakes on my own for the first time this summer. I'm just putting it out there.

If you do get the kit you listed make sure you follow the break-in instructions to the letter. They'll whistle if you don't. And unless you are doing it for looks or performance I wouldn't get drilled rotors. they are really easy to warp.

Power Stop K7300 Front & Rear Brake Kit with Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors and Z23 Evolution Ceramic Brake Pads

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WJMYV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PLNxDb3NK3ZCW

This exact part. It allows fluid and air out, and doesn't let air back in. I got this to catch excess fluid.