Best automotive replacement belt tensioners according to redditors
We found 10 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement belt tensioners. We ranked the 7 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
This sounds like the classic Ecotec timing chain rattle, it's caused by the timing chain tensioner which loses oil pressure after it's been sitting for a while.
The timing chain tensioner operates off oil pressure, so while the car is running, the oil pressure builds up and keeps the chain tensed. After you shut the car off for a while, it loses pressure and the chain goes slack. Then, when you start it back up again, the chain will rattle for a second until pressure builds again in the tensioner, then the noise goes away.
Apparently GM has had several re-designs of the Ecotec timing chain tensioner, they finally fixed the issue some time in 2009. See this link for more information. This is really important because if left alone, that brief rattle will eventually lead to a broken timing chain, and being that the Ecotec is an interference motor, you will bend some valves.
It's very easy to check if you have the older style tensioner, as it is visible on the back passenger corner of the engine, just take the big plastic cover off. The older style tensioner has a flat head, and the new style tensioner has a raised bump on the middle. See this comparison to get an idea. And this is where to look for it on the motor, its on the back passenger side just above the water pump.
Its a pretty easy procedure, unscrew the old one using your oil filter socket, and carefully remove it making sure no parts fall down into the timing chain area. Then, screw the new one in and tighten it to 55 ft-lbs. You will also want to remove your valve cover for this, because you will want to smack the back of the chain in order to release the spring in the new tensioner, thereby priming it for first use. The new tensioner is ACDelco part #12608580. Good luck!
Also, get the tensioner compressor https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH97300-Toyota-Tensioner-Compressor/dp/B009RXWMNE saves you from having to take the AC and PS pumps off to get the tensioner out to compress it.
I'd also highly recommend replacing the valve cover gasket. They get brittle and leak onto your headers. Very easy job. Just be careful the you don't over tighten any of the bolts and be careful with the cover too (it's made of plastic).
Valve cover gasket: https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Gasket-Grommet-Victor-Reinz/dp/B00BZ9YV8W/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522256158&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+valve+cover+gasket
The belt tensioner is known to go bad on E46's as well and that'll put you on the side of the road if it fails. Also a pretty easy replacement.
Belt tensioner: https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-11-427-252/dp/B0066QTNCS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522255677&vehicle=2003-31-170-20--7-6-7-8226-171-1-1---1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2003%3Abmw%3A325ci
https://www.amazon.com/Serpentine-Tensioner-Pulley-Assembly-Ranger/dp/B01N4E8WD3 would this be the one you're looking for bud?
Don't worry about it, honestly. 55 Gallon drums you'll burn through like its going out of style. You'd be lucky to get 1000 miles out one drum in the city. Stick with making power the old fashioned way and enjoy yourself.
Maintenance isn't bad IMO since I do all the labor myself. Any up charges are entirely my fault. Let me list what I go through right quick.
Bi-Annual snapshot, timing belt
My biggest reoccuring annual expense is tire wear. My Hankook RS-3's used to get about 14k miles per set (200hp ago), but I'm moving back to the midwest so I will have dedicated winter set of rims (17" Volks) and a dedicated summer-powwwwahahhhh rims (18" Enkei). You could of course go with much less ridiculous tires that have some moderation in wear, and save big.
Fluids for the drivetrain can all be sourced from Amazon (Redline Fluids here) and I try to change out every 6 months, spring and fall at $50-80 a go.
I actually have a very large google spreadsheet that breaks down every cost I've had minus fuel / routine oil since I purchased the car if you're interested in seeing the madness.
Yeah that is a decent price for a new tail light. I usually get my parts (ones that aren't for offroading) from Rock Auto, Amazon, Napa, or Advanced Auto Parts. Always google the part store name and "promo code". For example Advanced Auto Parts usually has a 25% or 30% off promo code. RockAuto always has a 5% off promo code floating around.
Here is the link to Rock Auto for 04 Liberty Parts
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2004,liberty,3.7l+v6,1434760
Some example promo codes
https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com
 
Here is the 2003 Factory Service Manual. This will tell you everything down to how tight each bolt should be.
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
Here is the 2004 Parts Fiche.
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/04kj_PARTS_FICHE.pdf
03-04 are nearly identical. 2002s have a different transmission. 2005 and up has a different front bumper. I believe 06-07 they introduced traction control. 2002-2012 all have the same engine if it's the v6.
 
For the belt I suggest the brand Gates. I believe Napa carries them, Rock Auto and Amazon does too. The specific part number should be GATES K060863.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060863-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2WKHC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518715101&sr=1-1&keywords=GATES+K060863
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4292&cc=1434760
At Napa they like to rebrand the parts with their logo but it's the same belt from Gates.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBG25060863?interchange=1
I usually run Gates products for things like this, water pump, radiator hoses, etc so I haven't used a Goodyear Gatorback belt but I've heard they are very high quality too.
One thing to keep in mind is depending on the mileage and if it's ever been replaced before the belt tensioner usually needs to be replaced around 100,000-120,000 miles.
This is what the tensioner looks like.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-39120-Belt-Tensioner/dp/B00A161T3A/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A161T3A&pd_rd_r=SGFA6N7WMVZ12PFAWGKR&pd_rd_w=fZfSR&pd_rd_wg=K5qYC&psc=1&refRID=SGFA6N7WMVZ12PFAWGKR
It's only held on with the one center bolt in the picture. You can also see how it works a bit better from this picture. If you notice the bottom pulley is on an arm. Inside the middle of the tensioner is a spring that keeps this arm pushed out pushing the pulley into the belt to keep it tight. When you're removing your belt you're just using the wrench for leverage to move this arm. The spring inside them gets weaker over time and eventually will let the belt slip. You'll know if this happens as its a loud squeek. If you go here they have an example of it. http://mycarmakesnoise.com/under-the-car/belts-pulleys/
This one that is demonstrated being swapped out in this [video] (https://youtu.be/ykC7ykTwbCg). And in my car I don't have to remove anything to reach it unlike in the video. I actually changed the serpentine belt tensioner previously so I know for sure this is the timing chain tensioner.
Thanks. Also, would you recommend I buy Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor?