Best belts, hoses & pulleys according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F5JM0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521255244&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=otc+hose+clamp+pliers

This is much better. My favorite tool.

You can use a hose clamp like this to attach bottle cages wherever they fit. Use a couple of layers of cut pieces of inner tube to protect the frame and stop slippage. It's very cheap and works well, just make sure to check what size you need.

Or you could get a framebag and chuck a camelback bladder/bottle in it.

I wouldn't want to run a waterbottle on the back of the saddle, just seems like it would get annoying and possibly rattle out. I'd only carry anything on the forks if the front triangle of the bike was already occupied - you want as much of the weight as closer to possible to the centre of gravity.

There is a tool out there that grabs the tabs and can open up the clamp, handy as hell for the spring clamps and no chance of stabbing your hand.OTC 4525 Cable-Type Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u.iwybNKCBDGN

serpentine belt tool.

FYI, you're using the wrong type of hose clamps. What you want are "fuel injection hose clamps". They have no ridges which cut into the hoses, and greatly reduce the risk of damaging the lines which can cause leaks.

Also, get the tensioner compressor https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH97300-Toyota-Tensioner-Compressor/dp/B009RXWMNE saves you from having to take the AC and PS pumps off to get the tensioner out to compress it.

how about one of the belt tension tools
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000MUTAGS

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O

That's an inexpensive one. I've got it for personal use and it's pretty solid.

do yourself a favor and get a nice pair of flexible hose clamp pliers

Barring that, even just regular hose clamp pliers are miles ahead of using whatever random pliers are laying in your toolbox.

Well its like $7.50. Exactly, it costs more cause you need the special key. Cant be undone with a flathead or socket. A little extra piece of mind if you will. Key Clamps

Flyin Miata is well-regarded for all the things.

I like Gates for both belt and pump, personally. Amazon sells that brand. Get the belt in a kit that includes the replacement pulleys, gasket, etc. The Gates pump has a cast impeller rather than spot-welded, which some think is the better way to go for a water pump.

BTW, here's a worklist you can use for this job: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eEStLWP0Vp9YlvqrPNLA67S31Iz0FZd0Q-2waNV_UFg/edit#gid=0 (if you have updates on any of it, let me know!)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=psdc_15721381_t1_B00725CM34

The 4.7 is a pretty bulletproof engine, as long as you keep up on the timing belt/water pump services (the pump is right there and you take all the coolant hoses/radiator out so doesn't make sense not to).

I just had mine done on my '07 4.7. Paid $250 for parts/coolant, and the local garage by work charged $480 to install. Get the Aisin TKT-021 kit with water pump and tensioner, and also toss in a thermostat and new serpentine belt too as you take all that out. I would do it, but it's getting cold and it would take me 2 days, where it took them an afternoon.

The only thing I've actually replaced is the alternator, as I think the owners before me left the rubber splash guards go, and the alternator is located low on the engine. It's not impossible to get to, but it's a pain in the ass because it's wedged behind the steering pump. I bought a pull off from a totaled truck with 50K miles on it for $75, as Toyota wants $390 for a reman. Ha, no thanks.

My friend and I had limited knowledge of Subaru engines before we dove into my overhaul. We decided it was worth it to pull the engine out. It needed a lot of high mileage maintenance.

Felpro Gasket set $130 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2AISU/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Timing Kit $150 -
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP307-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUCFT2/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_z

I also did clutch, flywheel, spark plugs, wires, thermostat, and a few other things I'm probably forgetting. I believe that my costs, including the machine work and refreshing my heads, was around $600-700. Considerable savings over taking it to a shop or dealer.

There are more than enough how-to videos and forum write-ups to keep even a newbie mechanic from loosing his/her mind. Gasket failure rates are insane for these years of Subaru, lots of people have been in your shoes. A quick search of "subaru head gasket" on youtube will bring up tons of stuff. Many videos are of people doing the repairs with the engine still in the car. In my opinion, you "might as well" pull the engine all the way out, since you really only have a few fasteners left. Engine mounts, pitch stop, and the bolts/nuts holding the transmission to the engine.
With the engine out, it just makes the rest of your job a lot easier. And you can stand in your engine bay, and that's fun.

Best of luck!

For gas last year I built a extended run system using a 14 gallon caddy. Took the hose off, put a brass fitting, fuel line and some fuel clamps. The you just need a fuel cap like this one which I like because it’s Made in the USA and includes a great magnetic dip stick and funnel. Lastly here is the quick disconnect fitting for the cap.

Fill it up and run all weekend long.

Here's part 1 of meaty's 5 part guide. It covers the DOHC, which is the type of engine you have and slightly more complicated that the SOHC.

As for parts, here's the belt kit you'd need. If you have access to basic tools (wrenches, ratchets) you should be ok. You will need a 22 mm deep impact socket and a breaker bar to get the harmonic balancer pulley off, but you may be able to rent these from a place like AutoZone. Also, you'll need some new coolant since you'll have to drain the old to change out the water pump.

Its not too hard. Just time consuming. Be patient and follow all the steps. This diagram shows you how to line the cam wheels up. Its sucks to do it, but once you do, you're good for another 100,000 miles and you'll save hundreds of dollars doing it yourself.

Did mine when I bought it just for the hell of it. 1997 Lesabre 280,000 miles so I figured I better be safe than sorry.

LOWER http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=89017816

UPPER http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=89017554

Upgraded Manifold http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?addtocart=1&addpartnumber=89017555&singlepart=1&partnumber=89017555

Elbows: http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47065HP-Elbow-Type-Heater/dp/B00A1A6PT4/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0YVJ8H2EN20A0HRXC2WB

Parts might be cheaper elsewhere, but gmpartsdirect hasn't let me down

I used this one, works fine. I think I had to cut down the long bolt a little because it was a bit long and hit the bracket, but I just needed the special block thingy since it broke on me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IY269GU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you have the nut...thing flipped the right way so that the adjuster bolt is straight, otherwise it will tension at an angle and crack/snap it.

I have used the [aisin](http://www.Aisin.com/ TKT-031 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYWXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fmY0DbQRSD3CP) kit for 4 cars including my is300, a gs 300, 80 series and 100 series land cruiser. Never had a problem with any one them and they use OE parts

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NYE26U/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

I've never had an issue with Gates parts (I have one of their belts on my 2.7t Audi.) I believe their the OEM source for several manufacturers.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000MUTAGS

This is what I use for my cars timing belt but I'm not sure if it reads low enough for a 3d printer belt. Something similar may exist in a lower tension range as well for accessory belts.

If he is like me, he has all the tools he really needs, but would love to have some of the luxury tools most of us do without. These are things that make the job easier, but we don't buy unless we have to.
A few ideas:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6508-Full-Coverage-Master-Disconnect/dp/B000O1E54M/ref=pd_sim_auto_27?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3569-Terminal-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000I16DFM/ref=pd_sim_auto_33?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Products-95978-Master-Terminal-Tool/dp/B001BFQ3UY/ref=pd_sim_auto_42?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-TP40-Automotive-Back-Probe/dp/B000VRJGT8/ref=pd_sim_auto_84?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=pd_sbs_auto_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ADKVBA248HB7TFMJ1HY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066STLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recently had to replace on my 2006 9-3

A new tailgate with all the internals (backup camera, latches, etc), the inner composite cover, and painted, is going to run you $1k+, it sucks.

A potential cheap fix once you DO replace it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAXCWO/

you can slip that around the release hinge (passenger side), and keep the turnkey in your center console or something; it's not foolproof but it'll definitely slow down anyone trying to do a grab and run and that's often enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-021-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gx470+timing+belt&qid=1570037449&s=gateway&sr=8-3 - Part for $163 . Labour is shown as $299 but I checked by calling and it was around $450 . So approx $700 . I'll look into what else to change but i'll probably replace few other parts since we're already in there

Here you go

Link to kit

Here is the mobile version of your link

Sure, here you go: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033DH9SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found amazon has the best price. The Gates kit is extremely popular and comes with a timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, 4 idler pulleys, and a water pump with gaskets. With the exception of the Mishimoto bits, the rest of the maintenance items I listed earlier were Subaru OEM.

I just had one of the Mishimoto hoses spring a leak on me actually :(

Dunno if this is the one you need https://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-917-951-Idler-Pulley-Adjuster/dp/B00IY269GU

I have this can (red) and this hose. My dad used them for our dirtbikes when I was growing up so there's a bit of nostalgia in them for me.

I think it is these ones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040CWZR0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_auto_3?refRID=16TJRVKKN57EE8FS0PAB

I believe the 5000 lb. number is when you have the aux. Transmission cooler and a weight distributing hitch. You shouldn't need a weight distributing hitch when only towing 1700 lbs, but it sounds like you need a cooler for sure.

I'm not familiar with the KK at all, but when I did the install on my ZJ, I didn't need do take the radiator or condensor our like someone else commented about. I did take off the bumper and grill though. I just spliced into the rubber transmission lines with double barbed brass fittings with 2 fuel injector clamps on both ends, and ran new 3/8" high temp trans line in front of the radiator and mounted the cooler to the supports behind the grill. The fuel injector clamps are important, because the dont cut into the rubber lines linke the traditional screw type hose clamps.

Another thing you need to think about is if you want to isolate your aux. cooler from the in-radiator cooler you already have. Most factory Aux. cooler setups are plumbed in-line with the in-radiator cooler. I just completely took the in radiator cooler out of the equation and got an oversized cooler. It a lot easier to not have mess with the fittings on the radiator, since they always seem to be a pain and usually require special tools. It will make your engine run a tick cooler as well. Some people think that you need the in radiator cooler to "warm up" the transmission fluid in the winter, but I've had mine separated for years and I've driven in temperatures as cold as -17*. It took longer until it would shift into overdrive, but that seemed to be the only issue. I'm also not sure it actually warms the fluid up any faster because on initial cold start up the thermostat is closed, so the coolant in the radiator isn't circulating around the engine, so that coolant is just as cold as everything else.

By isolating the aux. cooler, you can also avoid the dreaded "strawberry milkshake", where the radiator cracks/leaks internally and your transmission fluid and coolant mix and gets pumped through the transmission creating a pink frothy goop, that will probably take out your transmission. Thats super rare, but it does happen, Xterras were known for that problem.

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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these.

Maybe you can get the tensioner pulley off without first removing the tensioner assembly, in which case you don't need to replace the elbows at this time. Its hard to remember.

Like this?

Check out VP Racing gas cans


http://autoplicity.com/1690401-vp-fuel-containers-3582-5-gallon-square-jug-black?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7-K7BRCkkIH3t_WwoskBEiQAD8oY3iPR2qOXD_JLEHoooPDLmAZ0aqHVuHFimZrBZHhMFcIaAsKA8P8HAQ

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3044-Deluxe/dp/B005G5R5LQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=49Q19K750CMH6CCEMZF7

It'll be far easier to fix and maintain a generator than it would be to do the same thing with a car. Cars are complex and have tens of thousands of parts whereas a generator is simple and can be easily fixed with cheap parts.

You'll spend $3k+ on a car and end up with extremely poor comparative fuel efficiency and costly maintenance while not even being able to power a fridge. In the end, you'll generate even less electricity than a simple $500 dedicated generator would. You gotta trust us all, you're in a car community. We're all telling you that cars make abysmally terrible electric generators.

If you get a generator that is powered by gas or diesel, get one of these and a filler hose. All you gotta do is fill up that thing like you'd fill up a car. Easy peasy

Odd, I just looked back to my orders the WP was $28 when I ordered, another $40 or so for the TB+pullied and the gaskets for the camshafts and crankshaft were probably $30 tops all together. [Here's my wp. ](Gates 42134 Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2W91E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sXKXAb7NFEBRH) and [TB](Gates TCK179 Timing Belt Component Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2YDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YKXAbCPXBPEQ)

I can imagine there are some that are a pain in the ass. I've got a set of tools designed for doing belts in tight spots, usually on FWD cars with transverse-mounted engines. It works pretty well, it's a thin rod with a few small attachments. I can't remember if I got it at a parts store or a tool truck.

It's kind of like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648451-Serpentine-Belt-Tool/dp/B004KED77A

Consider one of these, they do better for small hoses https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamps-FI6/dp/B0040CU0HM

It's definitely leaking right at the connection?

Aisin TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XGYVzb7CZNN5M

i wonder if its a counterfeit ... if it came from a vendor that supplied to amazon.. its really hard to tell.. there are a lot of counterfeit parts out there.. can you read the numbers on the OD of the belt and the casting numbers on the water pump. the gates customer service will ask for that info. and the amazon invoice.

did the amazon supplier identify them as gates rubber company?

this i spotted on the link you provided..
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mrehsNOfS.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NYE26U/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

best of luck..

this is what i was going to originally buy on amazon :

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP307-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUCFT2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_slice_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Hs26170Pt1-Head-Gasket-Set/dp/B000C2AISU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-ES-72212-Cylinder-Head/dp/B000Q0R4QC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_slice_detailpage

Two of the head bolt sets.


This is what my mechanic told me to buy. I think i can save an extra $100 by buying off ebay.

Thanks. Also, would you recommend I buy Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor?

Whoops, it wasn't actually a wrench. I think these two will work

Cheap one

Expensive one

And also from the forum: "The FSM (factory service manual) specifies 110-158 for a used Alt/WP belt"

I'm actually doing this fix today among a few others. Good luck!

Oh, here is where I've bought it: http://www.amazon.com/TBK-Timing-Belt-Kit-Mazda/dp/B003BG1Z5E/

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000MUTAGS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480705422&sr=8-1&keywords=krikit

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060950-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2WL8K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480705799&sr=8-2&keywords=5060950

Also is that 1-2K work if you pay a mechanic to do it? I was thinking if I get one without history I'd start with
http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-Mazda-Miata-1994/dp/B003BG1Z5E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1
and change all fluids while I was at it....

> (you'd have to hold the pedal AND the switch on the drill)

I thought somebody who'd ask that question would already know you hold down the trigger with a worm gear hose clamp, so I didn't mention it. Since, apparently, that isn't obvious: go to you local hardware store and buy a worm gear hose clamp of the proper diameter to clamp down the trigger on your drill before hooking it up to a foot switch.


>What I'm looking for is something that would allow you to vary the speed via the foot pedal.

Well, fine. Here you go. You're on your own determining if this is the proper control for your particular device: https://www.widgetsupply.com/product/SDD3-975PS.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwoLfHBRD_jLW93remyAQSJABIygGpXMeSAGXv7Cqra5OGNn1JbfCLv1LYznkEG-Q7aNLSsBoCjcPw_wcB