Best automotive replacement fuel pump filters according to redditors

Me and a friend spent quite a bit of time looking for off the shelf parts to use in a form 1 can and stumbled upon something quite remarkable. A 3/4 oz. jigger is an almost perfect fit in a NAPA 4003 fuel filter. Simply split it from the other end of the jigger, mount it in the chuck and bore a hole in the center. Then turn down a tube of 1.5" ID aluminum to fit inside and cut into sections for spacers. We have completed them and they have held up to 5.56 NATO and full power 300 Blackout without any problems. Oh, they work quite well too! Very quiet with subsonic 300 Blackout. I hope to make a DIY thread soon. This will have to do until I get some of the lathe pics.

Edit: Get can here

Get jiggers here

Split jiggers

Here's the jiggers after being separated.

Front and back of baffle and spacer.

Detail showing machining inside spacer to allow baffle to seat properly.

Two baffle stacks stacked.

First coat of paint! Here you can see we faced the end cap and knurled it. I also drilled two holes in the front of the cap so I could use a spanner wrench in case it gets stuck.

On one of the hosts. 300 Blackout pistol.

Tear down after a day at the range. Here you can see we milled the blast baffle to reduce weight. I hope to mill the spacers to further reduce weight. It is especially dirty because I used wire pulling gel on some subsonic ammo to see just how quiet it could get. Very impressive performance for the money spent.

Consumable like how you replace fuel filters every xxx hours.

WIX Filters - 24744 Heavy Duty Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q8HF2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mHBBCbB4Q1AHJ

Just having the right tire for the right situation is key. The stock tires they come with have to kind of work in every situation, jack of all trades master of none. Like, I live in an area where rocks and rocky river crossings or sand dunes aren't a thing. Its mostly just hardpack, and thick mud, so why not get a tire that was made specifically for that? With tires theres a trade off for every thing you do. Finding whats right for you makes an enormous difference over the stock tires. Biggest performance gain per dollar I'd say by far.

Also, ground clearance on the 450 theres only a couple ways you can get more of it and thats one of the easiest. You'd gain 2" over the stock 24"s going to a 28".


So then why a clutch kit? Well going to aftermarket tires effects the gear ratio and they're heavier so it robs a little low end power. So a clutch kit changes the springs and stuff to correct it (sort of) and make it grab the belt harder and get your acceleration back (if not more). The trade off being that the clutch engagement is slightly higher and more harsh. EIP or QSC are great.


To fix the factory cvt intake you'll have to fab something up on your own or get a snorkel kit (not recommended). Really just need something like this to keep air coming in but water out (mostly). Sometimes in rare cases the cvt box itself leaks from behind where it bolts up to the crank shaft. You have to pull the primary and secondary off to fix it and its a real mess.

Let me inventory my stuff. I know I have two FD-4606 filters...but I don't even know what those are for. I think they're for the 6.2l?

I'm going through my stuff, i'm running the part numbers to see what I have

EDIT: I have these, which I believe is what you are referring to? If it is, PM me.

http://www.amazon.com/Wix-33518-Fuel-Filter-Pack/dp/compatibility-chart/B000C9TBEA

The filter is replaceable rather than cleanable. It unscrews from the fuel line and a new one is just bolted back in place. If you are in the rust belt it might be moderately difficult, but if things go well it's a 15 minute job that needs only simple hand tools (a few metric box end wrenches). This filter should fit, though you can grab one from the parts store if you want to do it asap. https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B000C9XZJC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=4Runner%7C1005&Year=1999%7C1999&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=14&vehicleType=automotive

Vacuum leaks can be tested with fancy equipment, but the majority can be found by simply listening for air sucking sounds and looking for cracks (intake boot and vacuum lines). If you want to get a bit more effective you can spray vacuum lines with starting fluid and see if it changes the engine idle, but that obviously only works if the truck is running. As bad as your symptoms are you would probably be looking for a huge tear in your intake boot or something else substantial.

Where are you located?

Assuming 3/8" line, put this in a place where the line is not going to move or be tugged on much. WIX Filters - 33003 Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSEUPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LsYKyb6QYQ9JQ

Best bang for your buck is this stuff

Ten whole feet of it. Clear so you can easily see when fuel reaches the carb.

Also, use 1/4" metal hose clamps. Such as these.

Finally, please save yourself a lot of hassle and use a quality in line fuel filter. The best is the Wix 33001

I hope this helps you out! Happy flying

Had this problem a couple of weeks ago. I thought it was the o-ring but there was actually a small crack on top of the thing. I used epoxy to seal it and it hasn't leaked since.

This would probably fix your problem tho
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKA8DIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VWxIDb0MH5YDR