Best coil springs according to redditors
We found 53 Reddit comments discussing the best coil springs. We ranked the 37 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 53 Reddit comments discussing the best coil springs. We ranked the 37 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
No, but neither do the other kits.
If you want a full on lift kit, they cost a considerable amount more.
Front springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1310-Coil-Spring/dp/B006GJKBGC
Shocks: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-SK010645RXT-Twintube-Shock/dp/B006GJJUYG
Rear springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1462-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKG1W
OR rear shackles: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Suspension-Leveling-Shackles/dp/B00X8JPJCE
Rear SYE Driveshaft: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-5076-1-Drive-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AEV4S
SYE: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Heavy-Duty-Slip-Eliminator/dp/B007I5B6PS
Extended front brake lines: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF5LQ
Extended rear line: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF61ArefRID
Front Trackbar: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU
Leafspring shims: http://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Products-800062-2-5-Degree/dp/B004NOTHSK
And of course, the long arm kit you pick.
That list comes to 2k, and has everything you need.
a full pre-assembled long arm kit will cost you about 2k(see here: https://www.claytonoffroad.com/search-shop?field_product_vehicle_tid[]=12&field_product_categories_tid[]=66). Kits usually dont include everything you need, either... Buying parts you need separately will save you cash, and you can opt for a more expensive, or less expensive part. Be prepared to turn a wrench... the more turns you put in, the more cash you save(in most situations).
What you're asking is "I want a lift, but don't know what to ask about". The above is ALL the shit you need to get 4.5" out of your jeep without being a huge cheapass and doing it wrong. It's expensive to lift a jeep, and people seem to think that doing things like using blocks, pucks and a transfercase drop is the right way. Sure, you may only spend $100 to get 2.5 inches, but you'll see extreme vibration, issues with steering and tracking, pinion oiling, etc.
Save your cash and do it right the first time.
Spring spacer/compressor
Can be used to a minor degree to lift/lower the car, but often used to support sagging struts.
Ah yes! I forgot to add that they are Swift lowering springs, mild drop and very nice ride. They are made specifically for the X AWD model.
http://www.amazon.com/Swift-4N911-Lowering-Springs-Infiniti/dp/B00WJ1HO8Y
i have a 5.5 inch lift on mine, with 33" tires.
here's what i have underneath:
you can get better cooling with a higher core count radiator, and a thermostat - maybe 195? also, flush your cooling system really good. some people dont know that you arent supposed to mix different kinds of radiator fluid, and you end up with a mud in your cooling system. even though it says on the bottle dont mix HOAT and OAT fluids.
intake, exhaust? meh. not really worth it on the 4.0. people will argue, but there really is no performance gain. same with TB spacers, and other doo-dads. the only thing that makes more power is stroking it, or adding a super charger. check out Golen engine works if you want a 4.7 stroker - nothing but good reviews.
if you dont have ABS, you could swap in a d44 or 8.8, and have a wider array of stuff available to you. most 8.8's come with 4.11 rear gears, which is closer to what you would want with 33" tires. you'd only need to regear the front. as a added bonus, some come with E-Lockers, and adding a extra disc in there makes it a cheap locker, as opposed to a LSD. if you do have ABS... look for the mod to get rid of that shit, and the d35 under you jeep.
btw... long arms make your jeep ride like a Cadillac. totally worth it. long arms come with other issues though too, like over extension... so bump stops and limit straps are a wise investment. you should also look into frame stiffeners. rough stuff sells them for ~200 bucks, and they have everything pre-cut so you only have to strip some undercoat, and weld. maybe bend a bit. You could also do a 4.5 lift which is more common, and still fit fine. you have to bumpstop though, and you can use hockey pucks on the front for this. i didnt... my swaybar smashed into my wheel well a few times. good thing too, it didn't destroy my shocks.
also, word of wisdom: i know you're in the dry part of the country, but that doesn't exempt you from rain and rust. check your rear quarter panels, at the very bottom. mine were rusted out almost entirely behind the plastic. up in there there are some electrical connectors that im pretty sure control every bit of anything electrical in the jeep. i got mine wet and it burned out my radio, airbag control, ASD relay... so my jeep wouldn't turn off, killed all my gauges, made funny noises over my speakers, and killed my door controls.
For your application you can probably find a replacement bumpstop for your front and rear that's made for your jeep, lift and tire size. I'd Google it and read up on the forums. You've got a common lift and tire setup so hundreds of people have made threads about them.
Everyone is going to be different on how far the bumpstop is from the contact on the coil plate. Depends on cut fenders or not, 32s vs 33s, the material your bumpstop is made out of, etc.
I run a progressive bumpstop setup. These type of bumpstops compress to about 60-70% of their original size so my 10.5 inch stop will compress to 6ish inches. I flex my suspension to the point I want it to stop, measure the distance between the coil mount and upper bumpstop tube and make any adjustments to the progressive stop if need be. Progressive stops are your cheap air bumpstops. They slowly bring the suspension to its stop instead of an abrupt halt. I only have about an inch of airgap between my bumpstop and it's mounting plate.
If you want to do a full suspension redo, not just add a leaf this is what I did. I didn't do sway bar disconnects.
Skyjacker 0-3inch shock absorbers
Dorman leaf springs ~2" http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-929-301-Leaf-Spring-Cherokee/dp/B005VPS358
Moog coil springs:http://www.amazon.com/Moog-CC782-Variable-Rate-Spring/dp/B000C53ZSC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
So here she is... I'm planning to give some attention to the suspension because as you can see she is a bit slouched. I don't want to get to high so I'm looking at just replacing the leaf springs with these; https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005VPS358/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1VMTU9W4873PK&psc=1
and the coils with these;
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000C53ZSC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1.
However these are spec'd to provide some over stock height by 1.5" - 2"
Therefore I am wondering if the shocks that come with this rough country 1.5" lift will work. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-680-20.html
Really happy to be a part of this group and appreciate all advice and critique!
Gabriel Front shocks $58.99
Gabriel rear shocks $80
These Spring assisted gabriels can be replaced with basc hand tools and need 2 jacks to be replaced.
Or
Front and rear shocks $135
Other than needing a single car jack and hand tools this set can be installed easily.
how to front shocks
coil spring $61
Coil spring $64
Coil spring insulater $5
coil spring tool $15 - $50 or you can rent a tool at your local auto shop for a refundable deposit.
how to replace coil springs
If you have basic tools this entire repair can be had for as little as $250. You would pull out the shocks and springs then install the springs first then the shocks.
Non-mobile:
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble.
You could go with 3.5" Rubicon express leaf springs or 3" OME by ARB leaf springs in the rear. As for front, I'd go with Rubicon express 3.5" coils.
Edit: Don't forget the u bolts (no link because they're different depending on your rear axle), and the t case drop.
You can find new springs that give you an inch or two of lift (from stock), but that don't require any additional suspension changes. That's what I'm planning to do with mine. Ill see if I can dig up a link.
Edit- right here:
Crown Automotive 52001125 Front Coil Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VPV5NC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_g7BAxbQ58PFHG
Crown Automotive 4886186AA Leaf Spring Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X1YAZS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_87BAxb1Q5X1GA
I think those are the right ones, but double check. And don't forget about new bushings for the leaf springs.
Yeh you could. I keep hearing decent things about the BC BR's so maybe check them out https://www.amazon.com/BC-Racing-Coilovers-09-13-Nissan/dp/B00E0PSH6K
Even though they are discontinued, Honda still has them for sale on their Amazon account.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-51401-SF1-930-Spring-Front/dp/B00LB6MSYS/
Couple of ideas for you.
This is a stock spring package that directly replaces your worn out springs and gives you around 1.5 inches of lift for less than $250. I did this to my 94 XJ and i can tell you that'll help make some room for for those 30s. It's also easily boosted to a 3 to3.5 inch lift for around $90 more.
Front coils
Rear leaves
Edit: Look into getting longer bump stops as they'll help keep your tires out of the fenders. Here are the ones I picked up.
Front
Rear
Get some wheel spacers, I think these fit.
2pcs 25mm (1 inch) Hubcentric 4x114.3 Wheel Spacers (66.1mm bore, 12x1.25 Studs) For 4-Lug Nissan 200sx 240sx 240z 260z 280z 280zx 300zx Altima Maxima Sentra Cube (4x4.5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A837PFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OTkpDbV30EZ2Z
Use wheel spacers with a spring spacer. Something like these (but measure your springs and get something that actually fits).
Rubber Coil Spring Spacers, Pair (2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NRCL8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2UkpDb4YECF42
Use the spring spacer to get a 3/4” lift or so from your struts. Use wheel spacers to push the wheels out a little. You should be able to fit a tire that’s 1”-2” taller than factory.
I ended up having to get a couple different width wheel spacers, 1 1/4” on the front and 1-1/2” on the back but I think I need 2” on the back. A lot of this will be trial and error. That’s part of the fun!
Lowered on stock struts, with TuningPros LS-117-B springs (Amazon link). Picked them up as a package deal with the wheels/tires I bought from a fellow 86 owner.
I'm sorry I'm not entirely sure about what struts and shocks are.
The mechanic wrote down "right rear spring broken."
Here is a link for the part, maybe it will clarify - https://www.amazon.ca/ACDelco-45H3154-Professional-Rear-Spring/dp/B004JB3G66/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1548544278&sr=8-2&keywords=suspension+rear+coil+springs+chevrolet+cobalt+2010
I don't hear any creaking when turning. My car does make really loud whirring sounds that get louder the faster I go (which I assume are the wheel barrings). I hear random crackling sounds a lot and my car always steers to the left if I let go of the steering wheel.
Car looks good. Would look better with these: Tein VSN22-C1SS3 Flex Z Coilover Kit for Nissan 300ZX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SM99O44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_03zrzbKA5VY02
So I've decided to go with OME 906 coils in the rear (2" lift) and bilstien 5100 shocks front and back (going to go with slot B, 1.5" lift in front, to forego unnecessary wear and tear on CV axel and upper ball joints). My question is in the Amazon link, not that I'm settled on buy from them, but they have a shock absorber part for the rear shocks that is included in the package. Just wonder what its purpose is, if you knew. Is it to give the rear shocks more range of motion due to the 2" coil lift in that back? Part in question: Bilstein 24-249966 5100 Series Shock Absorber 5100 Series Shock Absorber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKNUZ9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6bsdBbPE7G8WE
Full kit I'm looking at: Bilstein 24-248730 & 24-249966 Pair of B8 5100 Front & Rear Monotube Shocks for 96-02 Toyota 4Runner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BNCMZB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q.rdBbFJHD2DV
ARB 2906 Old Man Emu Coil Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9LWYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7dsdBbBS41NWZ
I installed OME (Old Man Emu) HD (Heavy Duty) front springs on my '00. They're labeled as ARB 2928, I got mine on Amazon. OME also sells a MD (Medium Duty) spring that has a lower spring rate and would result in a smooth ride. The HD can support more weight for if you want an aftermarket bumper or winch or something.
There aren't really any aftermarket front struts options. Just the OME struts and OEM replacements. Most people just run an OEM replacement. I use KYB struts from RockAuto since the OME struts are not cheap.
In addition to the springs you could install a spacer. At this point you need to start being careful with your CV axle angle. Too much angle and your axles will begin to bind and break. I think a 1-1.5" spacer on top is the maximum you'd be able to go, and even then you might run into issues.
To go higher you'll need to look into a SFD (Sub Frame Drop), this is basically a "body lift".
For the rear, a lot of us run either AC springs or a cheaper alternative is Land Rover Discovery front springs on the rear of our Pathfinders. I personally run NRC9449 springs in the rear, but have run NRC9446. There are other taller options as well. If you go long enough in the rear you'll need longer shocks, I run Bilstein 5125. If you go high enough you'll want to look into a Panhard bar drop, a trailing arm extension, and longer rear brake lines/diff breather tube.
If you want to get more info, I'd direct you to the NPORA website. Lots of good info on there, but please just do your due diligence and search first before just asking questions.
Good luck!
Edit: spacers are an okay solution, but they mess with your suspension geometry since the spring compressed in a different arc. Going with just super huge spacers can cause some suspension issues longer term. Ideally you would do a full suspension job, but obviously that (what I've listed above) is gonna rack up $500+, not including labor if you don't do it yourself.
Moog 81069 Suspension Coil Spring Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00498ZR7A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_OKe4wb8QW2610
I know what bumpstops are, I was wondering how you planned on implementing them.
http://www.amazon.com/Prothane-19-1705-Ring-Spring-Insert/dp/B00387A83G are what I would do. Not sure how many rings you'd need but you can cut them to size.
If the compressor is bad it may be from leaky air bags on the rear. this will cause the compressor to run more that it should shortening it's life. At that point you may want to look into replacing them with a coil spring kit and eliminate the compressor setup(just leave it in there). I know that didn't immediately answer your question but it's what I'd do if it were mine.
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-CC865-Variable-Rate-Spring/dp/B000COTT1U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
I have done this suspension job myself on my '03 Town Car. The springs, not shocks, are what replaces the air bags. You can find the rear spring replacement kit here. As you can see, it's not expensive at all. There is a very minor decrease in ride comfort, but also a minor improvement in handling.
My .02 worth, spend the $64 on these vs junkyard coils (which will probably be sagging or getting ready to). Moog CC782
They're equivalent to the XJ UpCountry front coils and will get you a hair over 1", add in these Energy Suspension 2.6103G Spring Isolator and you'll hit right at 2" of lift.
I had the front figured out with these springs supposidly good for 2 inches. As for the rears I was hoping to avoid a bastard pack.
Are the the upcountry leaves from an XJ trim?
99% of the ones I see have generic rims and no work done outside of stickers and maybe a fart can (or your normal vents/rain guards/spoiler combo).
Sure, there's some high end stanced cars, but there's 99 with cut coils, spacers, and no real work done for every 1 show worthy car.
Even my enthusiast friends who "do it right" and make fun of the coil cutting kids spend $400 on a F&F coilover kit and install it themselves, or $52 on a basic coil lowering kit. That's not exactly expensive.
That's easy enough. You can buy a set of lowering clamps for about 10 squid. Dial-in your 30mm and off you go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029K20C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GvS2DbD4PN3N3