(Part 2) Best automotive replacement sensors according to redditors

Another idea: try cleaning your air intake valve (spray some carb cleaner in there and clean with a cloth.). Kinda sounds like that valve might be sticking.

Another semi-cheap fix that could be related is your 02 sensors. You have to use something like this to remove https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4OB3XC?psc=1

You need one of these

They're like $80 for one off Amazon. LINK

Also when mine failed I only got the Cat Inefficiency code. Replaced the sensor, ran my scan, reboot it, bam no codes after that.

Had the half check engine light keep going off and on on my 2011 r56s w/46k miles, talking with a couple of different mini experts they suggested I replace the solenoid valve(s) to see if it helped, along camshaft position sensor.
was very easy to do and haven't had and issues since

believe http://www.pelicanparts.com had a guide with pics that I saw but didn't follow, it was just a couple of bolts and some reattaching electrical connectors, very easy to do when you see the engine/parts

Solendoid

sensor

as far as the wiring harness, am afraid I am no help (didn't replace)

seems like something that can happen at that mileage, $20 sensor

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-511-101-Transmission-Range-Sensor/dp/B0089T034C

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8DAnlHCffI

double check to get the right sensor for your truck. the part i linked is a dorman replacement for the OE ford sensor (which is $54).

sensor is located on the side of the transmission at the end of the shift linkage.

Yeah Jeep made two versions of each: one that only sends out a pulse to light up the dash (the type you have now), and the kind that will vary (what you will need). I bought this (Wells TU108 Engine Coolant Temperature Sender https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026N1S4G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) temp sensor and it's been working great so far. I haven't gotten an oil pressure sensor yet, so I don't have a link for you, but it's about the same.

Here is the part you need if you're harness looks okay. Clean you're ground circuits as well as the corrosion on your battery terminals(which is normal).

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-CPS0001-Camshaft-Position-Sensor/dp/B00GTHKQC0

Here is how you install it. very easy.

https://youtu.be/PwjL3zLpwk4

Also, the coolant needs to be flushed, that looks nasty and rusty. There is likely a crack for that much to come out. Stop using water and use coolant.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2004,sentra,1.8l+l4,1429589,cooling+system,radiator,2172

I like denso products.

I’m using these on a Land Rover disco 2 to control a 16” puller. Going to tap the adapter tomorrow.

Aluminum Water Temperature Sensor Adapter (32MM, Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FY2WEC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j3eJDbH22VHV7

PartsSquare 185 To 200 Degree Electric Fan Thermostat Sensor Temperature switch 50 amp Relay Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4BA1C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_93eJDbT1AE1W9

So I believe after this thread I figured out the problem but can anyone tell me this:

Which one seems to be camshaft position sensor A?

http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-180-0679-Angle-Sensor/dp/B008QDD67W/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Mini|32&Model=Cooper|218&Year=2007|2007&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive

just curious what the difference is between that one and this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-180-0678-Angle-Sensor/dp/B008QDD7GW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

This might not be the correct part:

https://www.amazon.com/Coolant-Temperature-Connector-Replaces-158-0421/dp/B01EENEJ8M

What you need is a replacement ECT sensor pigtail. A place like NAPA might have that.

It should be a 3 pin connector cylindrical in shape. Should look something like this

https://www.amazon.com/1850353C2-Exhaust-Pressure-Pigtail-Connector/dp/B0192I70Z8

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Should be on the LH side of the engine, near camshaft pulley. The connector should be part of the harness bundle with multiple other connections . I would start at the camshaft position sensor connector and work my way up from there

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Good luck!

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After looking and you really can't find it try tracer dye is there anything that looks like it has been sprayed on? and cracks on the radiator? any holes in the lines?

Cam sensor. They usually are leaking. Might as well replace it. Mounted on the transmission side of the cylinder head. Two bolts to remove it.

Update: This morning, I got in my car and started it after it had been sitting in the driveway all night. Started fine. 45 minutes or so of driving later, I got into work. about 20 minutes after that, I tried to start it again and I had the same problem as yesterday, would crank but wouldn't start. So I go back into the office, consider calling AAA, wait for maybe another 10-15 minutes and try again. Starts perfectly. So now I'm thinking it has something to do with trying to start the car while the engine is still in a hot state. In both casees where it wouldn't start, I was trying to start it after a decent drive with a short period of time with the engine resting.

A google search suggests it might be the engine coolant temperature sensor has gone bad. Which looks like something I could replace myself with a $15 part I could buy on Amazon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umjDiWKHxjs

Should I try this?

You would need the one listed for a 2.5T.

FCP has them for $125
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-air-mass-meter-c70-s60-s80-v70-xc70-xc90-0280218088

IPD for $208
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/8586/114491-maf-mass-air-flow-sensor

And Amzon for $99 although I would double check the part number to make sure its the right one.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280218088-Air-Mass-Sensor/dp/B004AGESRG

damn, I didn't even realize- $121.90, $129.22 after taxes... P/N: 4874371AC.

*Edit, here it is on Amazon for $72.67.

The passenger airbag off light should be on if anything is in the passenger seat but there's not enough load for the car to think there's a person there. Lately mine has been on even with nothing in the seat. Hmm no at light...no p0715 code either...I would check it at least. Pull the air filter, pull the air box out its held on push pins and a rubber loop on the near left side. You should be able to reach it just by doing that. Make sure the connection is seated and the wires are in good condition. I bought a new one on amazon for like 21$


Mitsubishi Electric AT Speed Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044A537C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o7vwzb2WZDR2K


I'm looking for a test procedure so you can verify the sensor is good or bad

Its common for this gen civic to eat o2 sensors once in a while. if it ever pops up, usually replacing it works fine as long as its the only DTC you have. Bosch o2 sensor and the deep well o2 socket (prefer amazon one here and not this one from autozone as its weak and could strip your sensor)