(Part 2) Best bike drivetrain components according to redditors

OP, your chain is fine. Check out this tech tuesday article, you'll see your rear mech looks pretty much identical

You need to add an N-Gear Jump Stop, it will completely stop your chain from bouncing off. I run my 1x setup with tight chain and n-gear, never drop a chain.

FIFTY FIVE DOLLARS for a dummy hub!?!?!? That's a pretty impressive markup for adding some green anodized aluminum and a logo. Some people will buy anything.

A Pedro's Chain Keeper does exactly the same thing for about 12 bucks, and will probably last your lifetime ... even if you clean your chain several times a day.

I go with the cheapest KMC 10 speed chain. $26.

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M

Gold:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNARIE/ref=pd_sim_468_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VG17X4WDDHGAZPBRM1GF

It's a chain keeper. Not sure who made that specific one (looks like Park Tool blue, but who knows), but here's Pedro's Chain Keeper.

Edit: Appears to be a Morgan Blue Chain Keeper

Here's the fanciest chain Shimano makes for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, and it's under $20 with free shipping from the Walmart of the web: https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ICNHG71116I-Shimano-CN-HG71-8-Speed/dp/B00N3R30WC/

Procrastination is a disease, and I am sick.

• 55cm Matte Black Throne Track Lord Frame $285
  
• Gold Origin 8 single speed crankset $75 (I know it's cheaper elsewhere)
  
• Diatech compe gold finger brake lever $33
  
• KMC Gold BMX bicycle chain $23 (It is the 710 I think)
  
• Promax P-1 gold stem $70
  
• Mavic 700cc Ellipse track fixed gear wheel set/rims (slightly used) $550
  
• Cinneli mash bullhorn handlebars $150 (Are they really that expensive? I paid $20 for mine from a bro.)
  
• Rock Bro’s Alluminum Alloy Gold Pedals $25
  
• Pure fix pro Carbon Fork $200
  
• Cateye bike computer $45
  
• Cinelli Avaldo Crest bike saddle/seat $43
  
• Cinelli handlebar end plugs $6
  
• Gator Skin tires $75
  
  $1580 total, not even trying to bargin shop. Cog, lockring, seatpost (nope, frame comes with), brake and housing and cable, we'll be generous and call it $1700
  
  Bargain!

I love a quiet chain so, this and this.

Budget? You won't need to spend a great deal of money. Presuming the bottom bracket is ok, you just need to locate a compatible crankset with, I presume a square taper fitting.

If you want to install it yourself you'll need a crank puller:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-cotterless-crank-puller-ccp22/rp-prod34314

Don't try to remove/install a crank without one of these, lest you damage the bottom bracket. You will also need a pedal spanner, and be warned, pedals can be absolute bastards to get off.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Super-Pedal-Spanner-15mm-Pedals/dp/B0012Z5IU4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1408736859&sr=1-1&keywords=super+b+pedal+spanner

For a replacement crankset, perhaps something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-M131-Crankset-170mm-48/dp/B003ZMDJW6/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1408736777&sr=1-4

You might also have to make some adjustments to your front and rear derailleurs as the chainrings on the new crank will probably be slightly closer to or further away from the frame, but this is no more difficult than adjusting the tensioning screw on each gear cable. The front derailleur may also strike the new crankset, so pay attention to dimensions.

You can find them in 3/32 variety.

Origin8 BMX/Singlespeed/Fixie Chainring, 38t, 110/130 BCD, 3/32, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003J7ZP9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Au8EDbKDECG2S

This is the one I have. 44t with a 12-28t cassette.

I just read your hybrids bcd.

Hmmmmm. That’s gonna be the tough part.

How is the chain slipping? Is is dropping down or hopping up a rear gear, or is it slipping forward across teeth of the same gear?

Just based on your language, and how I perceive your knowledge of how everything is working, you might be best served by visiting a bike shop. Please don't take that as a knock against you, but if you want to take it in, you will be well served.

That being said, where's the fun in that? Let's do this ourselves!

If the chain is slipping forward, it may be stretched. Check out Sheldon Brown's article on chains. You can measure the chain stretch using a ruler, since every full link (that's two half-links, the individual swiveling parts) is 1" pin-to-pin. Measure twelve inches and the whole 12" should be pin-to-pin on a brand new chain. If your chain is 1/16" past 12" measuring twelve full lengths, replace it. If it gets more gone, it will start wearing down the teeth of your rear gears, and you'll need a new cassette or freewheel, depending on your rear wheel. That will cause slipping and skipping for sure, even with a brand new chain!

If you replace the chain, you will need to get a cheap chain breaker. There are many kinds at different price points, but I can vouch for that one as I carry it with me.

For a new chain, you have to get one that is the right width. This generally depends on the number of rear "speeds" you have. Up to 8 speeds in the rear is a standard chain. 9, 10, and 11 speeds in the rear require a chain that is thinner to fit in between the close spacing between gears.

You can also get a master link and replace a link in your chain with it - you can then remove the chain and reinstall it (for cleaning and work) without using a breaker. That's just a random one I found on amazon, which happens to be for 10-speed chains.

Measure your chain, check your gears for wear. If you have to replace your chain you just need a chain breaker and new parts. If you have to replace the rear gears as well you need a new set of gears and the appropriate freewheel/cassette removal tool. There a few common types of freewheel tools and just one cassette removal tool. They lock in to splines and allow you to use a standard wrench or socket to remove the tool.

EDIT:
Here's a video about removing a cassette

Here's a video about removing a freewheel

Here's a video about measuring a chain

if you take it to a bike shop they should be able to replace the chainring and sprocket and put a chain on.

If you want to do it yourself you'll need to following:

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SG-3C40-Nexus-Sprocket-23T/dp/B007FOVIDW

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS

For the chainring you should measure the BCD, directions here: https://wickwerks.com/bolt-circle-diameter-bcd/ This chainring works for 110BCD or 130BCD: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-BMX-Singlespeed-Fixie-Chainring/dp/B003J7ZP9W

Judging by your chain rings, this is an older bike. In the past few years, chain stops have been introduced to prevent this from happening. I use one (N-Gear) and have had very few problems since it was installed. The newer ones (if they are more carefully adjusted) may even work better. Links to three chain stoppers on Amazon are provided below. Your local bike shop may also be able to help. Adjusting your stops on your front derailleur to its most conservative setting (that still works) will help.


http://www.amazon.com/N-Gear-Chain-Guide-Watcher-34-9mm/dp/B0029LKXPA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348718647&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+stop


or


http://www.amazon.com/Third-Eye-Bicycle-Chainwatcher-Universal/dp/B000AO3HO2/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1

or

http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Cyclo-Cross-Chain-Keeper-31-8mm/dp/B001398H8O/ref=pd_sbs_sg_3

perhaps this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/

but square taper, you can put anything you like on there. why do you want a 130mm BCD? you wanna change rings, you can probably get whatever ring you want for a 110bcd just fine.

Shimano HG71 6/7/8-Speed Chain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3R30WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OH42Cb98QQG56
Just match the size of the chain and weave it in the same way it's in now.

You don't need a 21 speed chain, you need a 6/7 speed chain. Here's an example of this. Most stores which sell bikes, including department stores, stock these chains. You can pretty much use any chain tool . Some choose to use a dedicated chain tool, while others choose to use the chain tool in their multi tool. If you don't already have a bike multitool, I would highly recommend picking one up. This one is very highly regarded and the additional $11 over a generic chain tool might well be worth it, if only because of the huge amount of added functionality.

For tips on changing a chain, you can watch this video.

Am running an Rx100 RD with a 12-28 8sp, you'll need to wind the B screw in and watch your chain length depending on your crank. This Shimano HG51 should work fine, not expensive either..

Nice, I also picked up a used flip flop wheel for my ghetto conversion. For the tight chain you may need a half-link

I did 105 chains for a while, but they cost a fortune and they lasted me about 2 months. I've since started using this bad boy:

http://amzn.com/B001AYOP9M

It's cheaper, comes with a master link, and makes it through a whole year. It probably weighs 2 oz more. Oh no!

Yeah. thanks for the help.

Shimano SM-BBR60 Ultegra / FC-CX70 / 105 Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CABINCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shimano Claris 8-Speed Road Bicycle Crankset - FC-R2000 (175MM 50X34T W/O BB)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3YZ6S9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the BB should be standard english threaded, in which case you'd want https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SM-BBR60-Ultegra-FC-CX70-Hollowtech/dp/B00CABINCY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bbr60&qid=1566328849&s=gateway&sr=8-3

it's really hard to say online, it would be best if you could go to a local bike shop and have them check it out. I had a domane AL2 frame and sadly I didn't realize that I needed long reach calipers in the back.

but overall as long as everything is standard you should be able to upgrade to 11 speed no worries.

I don't have answers to all of your questions, but I recently put on the BBS02, and it is great. I think you will be happy with a Nuvinci, from what I've read. I put on a different cassette on the back wheel and I easily go 25mph. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A8RPUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can go up hills without pedaling, probably 12 to 14 mph.

I can get 20 miles on 6.5 Ah. (was 10 Ah 3 years ago) I have a Ping battery and plan on upgrading to 15 Ah. This should easily give me a 40 mile range. I use my battery on the rear tire.

http://www.pingbattery.com/

I have a cheap single speed commuter bike, not too different from that one. The generic freewheel it came with was all sorts of awful. Lots of ticking/clicking and really nasty feeling bearings. Not sure if yours is the same. I swapped it for a Shimano one which made a huge difference. You need a special tool to get the old one off or you can take it to a shop for a really quick swap.

Chain tensioners are also really nice to have to dial in your chain tension. Not necessary at all but nice for the peace of mind. Something like these.

Here is an 11-28. You won't be able to find anything much fancier without lookin at NOS parts.

If you want the HG50, it'll probably be a little lighter and perhaps shift slightly smoother.

Looks like this might be what you're looking for.

Here's some of the parts I used when I converted my Schwinn, I don't know the year or model of yours so there may be some slight differences, but but the way your frame is constructed I know they're close

Bottom bracket conversion: https://harriscyclery.net/product/truvativ-bottom-bracket-conversion-american-to-euro-adapter-1335.htm

Crank Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510250991&sr=1-1&keywords=sugino+crankset&dpID=41uvhXCdn2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G37X5Y/ref=twister_B00RNFQ79I?th=1&psc=1

You'll also need a new rear wheel, you can buy a new wheelset but I kept the front to keep the budget down. If you choose to keep the front, look for a 27" rear wheel, just make sure it has a flip flop hub.

Also, consult your local bike shop! you mileage may vary, but my LBS is filled with fixie goons that are more than happy to help you find parts. They may have used parts that'll save you some money.

Interesting challenge. If I had to narrow it down to one ride at that price, it’s going to come down to both how it’s set up at purchase, and how potentially upgradeable it is.

That being said, after a bit of shopping, this is my pick, at the moment:
Schwinn Volare 1400 Road Bike, 700c/28 inch wheel size, red, Fitness Bicycle, 53cm/Medium Frame Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5XTB94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CMtXCbVDDFV54

It’s “near” the setup you’d likely eventually want. 2x up front, pretty standard 100/130 spacing for the wheels, brifter-style levers, 1 1/8 threadless forks, comes with “decent for the price” Tourney stuff for both derailleurs and the brake/shifter levers, quick releases. It’s also pretty light, at I think 25 pounds or something. The cheap Schwinns usually use pretty standard sized, and therefore easily upgradable, bottom brackets, things like that.

I’d use the rest of the $300 to replace the freewheel to something like this:
DNP Epoch Freewheel 7spd 11-28 Nickel Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8RPUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4ZtXCbXVFYWQK

That might get you a bit closer to a more fancy road bike’s gearing, with the 11t high gear. Past that, when you had the cash, I’m sure a change of tires, brake pads, a different seat, maybe a cheap replacement free hub wheelset would make quite a difference. Maybe a bigger chain ring. I think those Tourney front derailleurs can handle 50t.

I’m sure most people would say not to upgrade a $266 bike. But all of that doesn’t add up to much more, especially since so many are basically maintenance/wear parts anyway.

I can’t say I wouldn’t pick something else tomorrow. But if I had to put one in the cart right now for that price, that’s the best I can do.

How about Sugino?

http://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1415203910&sr=8-7&keywords=sugino+crankset

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU7c0_G29MA

basically the hub is like one of these.

then i screw a free wheel on to that, that has an open end like this as opposed to this. I then get an old school metal bottom bracket cup which has the same threads as the free wheel. I screw that into the freewheel and then the next free wheel on to that extension piece (the bb cup).

You look it up online. Or on the packaging I'd guess. According to amazon it's a 3/32.

I think that'd fit with the 'narrow' on your previous chain (the 2 most common chain widths are 3/32 and 1/8).

(3/32 is narrower than 1/8)

I guess you have 42T chainwheel. Entry level Shimano 48T cranksets are around $20. You should then probably change the front derailleur as well, and possibly lenghten (i.e. change) the chain too. Not that expensive, but a bit of a hassle.

So, bit of an update, this is what I ordered earlier and wanting to make sure they're compatible/good choices:

Cassette:
SRAM PG850 8 Speed

Rear Derailleur
Shimano Alvio 8 Speed

Chain
SRAM 850

and I was unable to find any 'cheap' single bar end shifters, most were the 'extreme' kind that have bars extended out in front of the rider(unsure what that is called); however, was able to find a 'good' deal for a right Shimano Sora ST3000 8 Speed shifters.

From my understanding, I could mix/match many of the parts except the RD and the sifter should be the same brand. They all should be 8 speed?
The one part that I have reservations about is the rear deraileur as I would prefer something more 'roady' than the Alivio but unable to find any that are '8 speed'; would it be possible to get a 9 speed Shimano RD and have it still function well?

Hey guys I am looking for input on my current build. Tried to post earlier but it got removed without telling me why.

I originally bought the basic parts in fall of 2018 which included:

19" GT Agressor Pro from Dick's Sporting - $295

27.5" Conversion Kit 35MPH from LeafBike.com - $508.13

52v 14s9p-pf 25.7AH Triangle Battery Pack from EM3ev.com - $827.4

Rear Cargo Rack from Amazon - $25.99

SKS Velo Snap-on Fenders from Amazon - $21.65

BikeHand Toolkit from Amazon - $49.99

Shimano HG41 from Amazon - $16.70

Torque Arm from Amazon - $16.50

Park fr52 from REI - $7.15

Tire Liner from REI - $17

Tubes from Walmart - $20

Total $1825.51

Hot Damn! Never actually did the math that is quite a bit more than i thought it cost, I'm a little embarrassed I've been telling people that it cost around $1300 lol boy the shipping and tax just kills you!

Anyways it all arrived without issue (Thank goodness) and I put it together (minus the pedal assist due to a crank removal fiasco) with some difficulty as a number of things required modification to work. That rear wheel is an absolute biatch to install. I have had an absolute blast with it both on and off road since then. Only major gripe is with the controller, hella loud and super weak regen breaking.

Just recently decided to do some additional tweaking with the bike. Went on another spending spree over at Aliexpress. Ended up buying the following parts:

Pedals - $21.45

Longer Handlebar - $8.80

External Bearing Bottom Bracket and Cranks - 32.66

Four Pairs of Brake Pads - 5.29

3-Button switch - $27.49

Handlebar Grips - $2.66

Torque Arm - $8.35

Left hand thumb Throttle - $5.67

Lights DC 12v-48v - 20.89

42 tooth Chain ring - 17.60

Pannier - 30.51

1xSchwalbe MTB 27.5 2.25 - 50

Total $231.44

Already installed new bottom bracket and pedal assist (with some modification lol) and its amazing!

I am about to start getting into the electronics so i figured i would ask for advice before i solder everything up in case you guys come up with a better way to do things.

Anywho I am getting rid of those handle grips with the twist throttle in favor of a left handed throttle, this will allow me to shift on the rear cassette a lot easier. Then its on to replacing the super cheap switch (cruise, regen, reverse) with the Aliexpress switch (cruise, horn, lights, gonna short regen for always on) and add lights. Considering adding another on/off point for security but cant think of a great way to do that... Right now i have the BMS on/off at the battery itself (momentary switch) and the power on the LCD display itself.

Also anyone have a line on a cheap controller with strong regen breaking and sin wave fets? I see the ebikes.ca but looks like that requires cycle analyst v3 for pedal assist which doesnt seem to display information nicely plus itll cost around 265 for both...

Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Speed-Cassette-CS-HG20-7-Brown/dp/B007Y5HFWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525833920&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+HG20+7-Speed+Cassette

A little late to this thread, but on my 29er I had the same sort of issue with the chain coming off. Total pain in the ass. I installed a chain guide courtesy of Amazon and it hasn't fallen off since when having to shift to those lower gears. Good luck!

Thats the 112 link x10 10 speed chain with the connector link removed, leaving 111 links. I'm leaving the Amazon link below. They're buying this and removing the connector and selling it for the original price but as an 11 speed chain. Wow. Also it's out of stock. Maybe they got reported.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYOP9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?qid=1466225022&sr=8-16&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=kmc+11+speed+chain&dpPl=1&dpID=41-A4hwdBrL&ref=plSrch

Trying to re-thread the crank arm is going to be a difficult thing, involving tapping the threads on the crank up a size and installing a special bushing. Such a procedure is not going to be cheap at a shop (I would expect at least ~$30 in labor charges).

The writing "r 13.05" is likely a manufacturing date code.


With the value of the parts involved, there are two options. One is to find a used square taper crank arm somewhere, or to buy a new crankset. Amazon does have a few models such as the fc-m131 for around $30-40

Twenty bucks on Amazon but search "origin 8 130 110 chainring" to shop around. I've seen 'em on ebay for $10ish.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DTWRUE?pc_redir=1413174400&robot_redir=1
18 bones for an entirely new cassette

Yeah it will change gears fine, just mount your front ring with good chainline.

A chain catcher like this: http://www.amazon.com/N-Gear-Jump-Chain-Guide-Watcher/dp/B001CJXEKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414128685&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+watcher will add extra security cheaply.

I've always thought that the entry level pearl pedals were pretty sweet. Haven't played the most recent ones, but I've heard good things about them.

Hey just getting back into biking after maybe 4 years of not touching it. I would like to get a flipflop hub so i can coast and also a rear and front brake. I have none of that equipment to do so. I also want to re-tape the bars too. What should I get? How do I order the brake set? What do you recommend? Someone said tektro but I was having a hard time finding out which ones i should get and what other things I needed to get for them. Here is my bike:

https://www.cyclesmithy.com/products/2018-fuji-track

https://imgur.com/a/zsah4JE

Edit: Like would I buy this to make it free wheel? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=flip%2Bflop%2Bhub&qid=1562768778&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

Yes, this is one of the best aspects of SS bikes to me. The biggest issue is the design of your dropouts. Also, a half-link will be your best friend in regards to dialing in your chain tension.

That said, if you have a full suspension bike you will need a tensioner to combat chain growth through your travel, unless you have a concentric bottom bracket or unified rear triangle.

> Sram PC-1091

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M

This seems to be the chain that was on the bike.. doesn't look like the hollow pin design you had mentioned.

Thanks man

I don't run any kind of chainguide for the riding I do, which is either fast and flowy or technical (roots errywhere) XC, with the occasional drop/jump.

My entire reason for going shadow+ was to quiet the bike up. Before replacing the derailleur and going 1x10, coming down a rooty section sounded like a toolbox falling down a flight of stairs, and that's with serious chainstay padding.

The only thing I hear anymore is the very occasional slap and every now and then some rub on the RF bash I have mounted up. I use the bash and a JumpStop to keep the chain on, I've had one chain drop since going to this setup, and that was in a wipeout.

If you're getting a clutch derailleur AND the upper guide/bash, I wouldn't sweat the ring. You really have to work to throw a chain from the bottom with the new mechs. The tension is adjustable, too, you can always crank it up or down if shifting gets too hard or you keep dropping chains.

perfect! thanks. is sunlite any good?

sort of unrelated: If im only using the rear 5 gears and 1 in front on my 10 speed, then could I get a chain that is meant for a 5-8 speed and then not use my full range? 10 speed chains are stupidly expensive. im looking at this shimano cn-hg70 right now.

I believe it! My bike is from the mid-1990s. I'm not even sure the one I found will work: http://www.amazon.com/DNP-Epoch-Freewheel-Nickel-Plated/dp/B007A8RPUS It says "HG Shimano, index compatible" which sounds right. (HG being 'Hyperglide' which was new at the time.)

Fortunately a friend at work is really into cycling and is helping me. I didn't buy this bike used, I've just had it that long. :)

Sweet. So I am going to go with the 130mm spaced hub you linked above along with this cassette with 34 teeth to help with those mountains, this derailleur with the longer lever to work with the larger cassette, and this 6/7/8 speed chain. Let's hope it all works together!

I have a bike with the same bottom bracket and it started seizing up with less than a thousand miles on it. Granted, I've ridden in some pretty nasty weather with it, but others seemed to have had similar problems. I replaced it with this and haven't had any problems yet.


Additionally, you might need lower gearing depending on the type of riding you're doing. You should be fine if you're doing moderate hills, and not carrying too much. However even with compact cranks and completely unladen, I've had trouble getting up hills with steeper sections. So just be aware of that.

Definitely a good decision by attempting to do the repair yourself instead of taking it to the LBS, you'll be saving a lot of money.

You can get the tools and parts for cheap on Amazon. you'll be paying triple+ if you buy them from the LBS, though the trade off is you won't be helping support "the little guys".

i'd hold off on replacing the front chaining since they wear at a verrrry slow rate compared to rear cogs, and only do so if you have similar problems after riding on a new cassette & chain.

You'll need a chain breaker tool to get the old chain off, this is one I purchased about 2 years ago, used it on 6 or 7 chains and it's still is going strong, under $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179JC31I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a new chain- https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B074YZGKKQ

also when was the last time you had your rear hub repacked? i'm not sure if just slapping a new cassette on that wheel given its state is a good idea, you might want to consider repacking with new grease and bearings and lubricating the free-hub first, which is more involved.

personally i'd say either get a new rear wheel, chain & cassette, then tinker around with the old wheel on the side, experiment with it, and ultimately keep it as a back up, or take the wheel to the LBS and let them overhaul the hub / lubricate the freehub before putting a new cassette on yourself, unless you want to spend the time learning how to do all that yourself, on-top of having to buy additional tools, bearings, grease, etc.

That track bike is *$&!^#% sick.
Oh and that chain on it is awesome, and affordable, i recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-K710SL-SuperLite-Bicycle-1-Speed/dp/B001CNARIE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1

Yeah it's Shimano.

I'm looking at this:

https://www.ebay.com/c/1965475025 - this is the crankset on it now

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y5HFWU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_FItFDb5Z2CX4W


And I gotta figure out a chain to get. These two will work?

>Here’s the kicker: it needs tires, tubes, cables, and a chain.

Going by the photo I wouldn't be surprised if you could get away with lubricating and reusing all the existing cable housing, just replace the inner cables, which could reduce costs a fair bit depending on how much you pay for housing and make the job quite a bit easier/not needing special tools you need to cut housing

If the tubes hold air they don't need replacing unless you have problems

Have the tires actually perished? They might still be OK to ride for more casual riding, though new tires would perform better and be smart if you were doing more serious stuff

It's even possible the chain could be derusted in an acid or evaporust bath and would work OK after lubrication and freeing up, but considering how cheap chains are from Amazon etc I'd just buy a new chain like this one
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B074YZGKKQ and a basic chain tool

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Chain-Keeper-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000IZEH1K

Very handy

I'm assuming you removed a threaded on 5-cog freewheel from the rear wheel and then threaded on a single cog freewheel. I am assuming you did not remove a cassette and place a single cog and a stack of spacers on a freehub for this conversion. Is that correct?

- Yes and I replaced it with a Shimano single speed thread on freewheel: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542405280&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+single+speed+freewheel

I haven't put on axle nuts yet, I am thinking about going that route with a new solid spindle

https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-8-Speed/dp/B000VDFQAA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sram+8+speed+chain&qid=1558695763&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3

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I haven't personally used that model, but i've been using sram chains for years. They have a superior linking system to other manufacturers. If you buy or borrow a chain breaker, installing it yourself is simple enough. The big detail that you want to shop for is an 8 speed chain.

Or a cheaper chain guide like this one..

N-Gear Jump Stop Chain Guide/Watcher 32mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXEKG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nVP9wbZ6DZNPM

yes im probably gonna go for that. is this it? the price, quality and everything, does it seem right?

Wonderful, it sounds like great upgrade. I was looking at something like this chain. I assume this will require the removal of some links to fit?

Thx, that was really helpfull. I searched for sth similar in German / on the german Amazon pages, but no matches. For example I typed in "26 36 46 Kurbel" (=crank) and the only hits were either some 2-chain-rings cranksets or a 26-36-48 Crankset.

Regarding radcopter2's comment that the rings don't needed to be replaced urgently, I will have my chain checked, if it is too loose by now. THe chain is still a mass product and only costs ~ 20 USD.

Also the cassette (7-speed, 12-28 teeth) is still available at amazon.