Best bike hubs according to redditors

We found 66 Reddit comments discussing the best bike hubs. We ranked the 50 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Bike Hubs:

u/sMACk313 · 10 pointsr/bikewrench

I have this and it works well, but maybe its more than you are looking for: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9H6JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/foot-long · 5 pointsr/MachinePorn

found the Rohloff Speedhub on amazon. $1,216.80, you save $49.58

u/r0botluv · 4 pointsr/bicycling

just a bit cheaper than the most best alternative

u/zaius · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Wow. I've never heard of eccentric bottom brackets before - sounds like a really good solution. Do you have any pics of it? The only way I've seen for dealing with it is with that is with an eccentric rear hubs, like this, and they're super expensive and require rebuilding the wheel.

u/tracer_ca · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

That's not a hub motor. That's a NuVinci N380 CVT Hub.
Now it's often used in ebikes, but it's not necessarily an ebike because it has one.

The thick green aluminum frame is probably more indicative of an ebike, but I was curious as to which one.

u/anothertriathlete · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I've had good luck with the Park Tools dummy hub. I didn't know it existed until about a month ago, but have used it several times since. http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-373-241-Dummy-Hub/dp/B00NQ9H6JK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459190310&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+dummy+hub

u/Txn67 · 3 pointsr/xbiking

Build your own, man. You'll be glad you did. And if worst comes to worst, you can at least lace them up yourself then have a shop just true them. Good budget build would be DT Comp spokes and these rims and hubs:

https://www.amazon.com/Nova-NOVATEC-A141SB-F162SB-Shimano/dp/B0775GW9JD

https://northwestbicycle.com/products/velocity-quill-700c-velocity-j470182?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAn8nuBRCzARIsAJcdIfNaD4wLCpHOvKNAERZuQbXPb4cTaxaJleR2zPN2HddF1k7-ZeFpjNoaAteUEALw_wcB

u/echorian · 2 pointsr/EngineeringPorn

It's a lower midrange hub from a Giant OEM wheel. Typically these Hubs are manufactured by a Chinese company such as formula, joytech, or novatech. They are solid, although not of particularly exceptional quality. If you're interested in a high quality hub that uses non-cartridge ball bearings like in the GIF, look at Shimano hubs like this Shimano XT.

u/visgoth · 2 pointsr/MTB

Bah, if we're gonna spend money then let's get a Rohloff. Go big, or go home!

u/nowhere3 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The thing you're looking for is called an indicator chain, not an indicator spindle. You should be able to tell which one you need based on the type of SA hub you have.

Mark II: http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-Indicator-Chain-Speed/dp/B001CK2G2M

Mark III: http://www.amazon.ca/Sturmey-Archer-Indicator-Chain-Speed/dp/B001IA99E4

u/gsasquatch · 1 pointr/ebikes

$20 for the lights with batteries: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCW5SNS

$7 for 6 buck convertors (you only need one): https://www.amazon.com/JSDOIN-LM2596-Converter-3-0-40V-1-5-35V/dp/B07KQ6ZFXG/


The rest is just cabling etc. Convert big battery voltage down to 5v, and plug the usb into the lights, so the big battery charges the lights.

Which I guess is a bit more than this generator/light combo at $24 https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Motorized-Friction-Generator-Headlight/dp/B078BD2G6D/ but it's less active

and a lot less than the $50 dynamo hub, which has 1% drag when off: https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Alfine-Dynamo-Bicycle-Hub/dp/B073JGTX39

u/mtranda · 1 pointr/bikewrench

If it's an X-Fact, you're better off getting a new rear wheel altogether. Those bikes are junk. They're not unusable junk, but parts will keep breaking down. So, rather than replace them with identical parts, you're better off upgrading to something slightly better.

I've had two rear axles break just like that before deciding to just get a new wheel built, with a better hub/rim/spokes.

Otherwise, if you insist on going this route, here you go (just an example after a quick search)

u/ElCondorHerido · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

You need just the bolt for the front quick release, but they are hard to find. You'll have to buy a new quick release set even if you only need the front one. Luckily for you, they are cheap

u/alienator064 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

What about this:

Fouriers CNC Boost Hub Adapter Thru Axle 15mm x 100mm to 110mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TSSQ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YplQAbMXXDCS2

No dishing needed!

u/sakizashi · 1 pointr/gravelcycling

I think you need the 3 pawl version DT Swiss Mountain Freehub Body Black, No End Caps, SRAM XD, 3 Pawl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZQF6HF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2d5YCbCCVV7DD

You also might need different end caps.

u/systemwhistle · 1 pointr/Surlybikefans

I think I see how that'd work but the link you posted isn't for sale anymore. Any other suggestions?


Would something like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/MonkeyJack-Quick-Release-Skewer-Adapter/dp/B0793GP6FY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538015622&sr=8-3&keywords=15mm++Axle+to+12mm++Axle

u/afilon · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Shimano HB-M525A and re-lace your front wheel.

u/BrokenByReddit · 1 pointr/bicycling

I have plenty on the plus side, but there are about 1200 on the minus side.

u/blorg · 1 pointr/bicycling

I honestly don't think that is that excessive, people spend extreme amounts on bike stuff all the time. My own touring bike is over $4,000, and that's not the most expensive bike I own.

I mean here is a hub, yes, a hub, a geared hub admittedly but a hub, that costs over $1,200:

http://www.amazon.com/Rohloff-Speedhub-Speeds-16t-Silver/dp/B001GSOPOC

These things are very popular with touring cyclists, I have met plenty that have one. Despite being fricking $1,200. For a hub. Not even the whole wheel.

I'm not necessarily seeing the point of this caravan thing over a tent, but the price alone isn't a "yikes", if there is someone who actually wants this for some reason.

u/offlines · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

phil wood

arguably the best looking hub, and reviews/reports are saying its durable..

if I were to drop 350 on hubs, i'd get wood hubs..

u/AnontheMaus · 1 pointr/bikewrench

A triple chainring crank will subsequently give you problems in terms of chainline when feeding back to a single sprocket, and using a chain tensioner whilst keeping a coaster brake is not viable. There are IGH options with integral coaster brakes, but again, we're getting into an expensive modification.

It can be done, but I think that after doing $80 on the Shimano Nexus hub kit (incl shifter and 23t sprocket) and then buying 36 appropriate spokes and brass nipples, and then building it represents a significant outlay.

Sturmey Archer also make a 3sp coaster brake hub kit which has a less painful gear range (177% instead of 188%) but is slightly more expensive.

Both hubs I've listed are 36h, and yes probably can be made to work with your existing crankset but you'll need to watch chainline.

u/summerchilde · 1 pointr/bikewrench

It should say on the rear hub what kind it is. Most likely a Sturmey Archer. These things last forever and rarely need to be disassembled. There should be an oil port on it. Flood that thing with 20W motor oil.

You most likely need a new shifter cable and possibly a new indicator chain. Lucky for you they are cheap.

Cable.

Mark I indicator chain.

Mark II Indicator chain.

You may have to shorten the cable housing. Use the one that came with the bike to figure out how much to remove.

If you still have the original indicator chain and it is not too banged up then use that. There are two sizes and you need the correct one for the bike.

Correct indicator chain sizing:
If your axle measures 5 3/4″, the correct indicator is HSA125 (a.k.a. Mark I).
If your axle measures 6 1/4″, the correct indicator is HSA126 (a.k.a. Mark II). You must use the correct size.

Anyway, if your original is good. Use it. Flood that hub with oil. It should overflow. With the indicator chain in, flip the bike over and spin the rear wheel. Pull the chain repeatedly to work that new oil in there. It'll free up any stuck parts.

Attach the cable barrel end to the indicator chain. Shift the shifter to 3. Cable should not be too slack or too tight. Try shifting. If it is too tight loosen the barrel on the cable. If it is too loose, tighten it.

PM me if you have trouble. I have 4 bikes with these.