Best bolts according to redditors
We found 56 Reddit comments discussing the best bolts. We ranked the 43 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 56 Reddit comments discussing the best bolts. We ranked the 43 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Spring loaded molly or toggle bolts
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-16-inch-3-inch-Thread-Spring/dp/B072J8GLJV
This, cut to size. No threads for a brush- not needed. Much more strength than a cleaning rod.
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11518 Brass Round Rod, 3/16 x 36" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149J521O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_C5eLAx4ozFCTK
MAGNETS! Get some of these -https://www.amazon.com/Mutuactor-Strong-Neodymium-Magnetic-Pull-Force/dp/B07JLKXRV6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=rubber+magnets&qid=1574302958&s=industrial&sr=1-5- bolt 4 on top and bottom. The bumper is steel, so it will have no problem sticking.
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Or use some toggle bolts and go through the mesh - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Thread-Spring-Loaded-Hollow/dp/B071ZFF8N5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=m6+toggle+bolt&qid=1574303080&s=industrial&sr=1-3
Hey OP, First of all, nice rack!
Secondly, a lot of people are commenting about your choice of hook for which you've hung the chains from.
Most of the commenters are correct in saying that the 40kg load is rated for a vertical tension, rather than a horizontal shear/bending (like you are using them here), but no one has offered up much advice, so I thought I would give you my 2 cents.
If you are at all worried about the rack falling, you could switch to something like these and use something like these to hang the chain.
This is still decorative and they come in many sizes, shapes, and styles. Many are shorter on one side, so you will have some play with how far out from the wall you want your rack to hang.
I'd place money on this being the problem --http://www.amazon.com/Genie-34107R-S-Screw-Drive-Carriage/dp/B000CST1L4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1373510076&sr=8-10&keywords=garage+door+trolley. Teeth get stripped rather easily.
But if it's a rental, that's the landlord's problem.
I second this, /u/SunSwanetchna. U-bolts would be a good fastener for this job. You could get some like these and paint them black. Then you could adjust the planks up and down; wouldn't have to get it perfect the first time.
I decided against digikey and went with a combo of Amazon and Ebay. Here's the parts I bought:
>Cheap trrs cable from amazon $5.69
>100 M2 screws from amazon $4.99
>50 M2 spacers from ebay for $4.49
>200 diodes from ebay $3.29
>70 gateron blue switches from switchtop.co for $22.75
I bought 2 pro micros from ebay and 1 from amazon just because I had amazon giftcards and might use the extra pro micro for a numpad.
>pro micro from amazon $8.70
>2 pro micro from ebay $10.98
How much movement do you expect?
Does the top need to be fastener free?
One thought would be to install rivnuts into the sheet metal top then fasten the wood top using connector bolts. The holes thru the wood top would have enough clearance to the bolts to allow movement as long as you dont let a 500lb gorilla tighten the bolts.
The connector bolts are relatively low profile and shouldn't interfere with the tops function. But They could also be set in a counter bore with similar clearance between bore and head as the shaft and thru hole to allow clearance.
Rivnut example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFVHCTL/
Connector bolt example
https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973445744-Connector/dp/B00KM4OYJC
Had something similar happen to a Genie screw drive I had a few years ago.
This may or may not be the same problem with yours, but if it's grinding, it sounds like it is the same thing.
The black plastic thing that slides in the track of the opener, has teeth on top of it that engage the screw. When you pull the rope that pulls the lever down, that disengages those teeth. That plastic thing is called the carriage. If it's grinding, then the teeth have probably broken off or worn down and are just grinding away because there's not enough teeth left to engage the screw.
Here's what one looks like:
https://www.amazon.com/Genie-34107R-S-Screw-Drive-Carriage/dp/B000CST1L4/
You can see the teeth on the top part sticking up. That's what raises and lowers with the engage/disengage lever/rope.
You'll have to take it off to make sure that's what it is. There are several youtube videos showing how to remove/replace the carriage.
Then make sure you get the right part number for your particular model # opener, before ordering a new one.
>How to get audited in 10 easy steps
Well, the shittylifeprotip is because you don't get audited, but Fabory does. Dick move, so don't.
En kan je het ontvangende deel niet uitboren en er een metrische draad in trekken?
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Amazon.co.uk?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Fastener-Appliance-Communication-Equipment/dp/B07R8DWZQ1/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=1%2F4+-+20+x+1+1%2F2&qid=1572297796&sr=8-16
>concrete wedge anchors
I like to use https://www.amazon.com/CONFAST-Lag-Shield-Anchor-Short/dp/B071K8R6CP/ or https://www.amazon.com/CONCRETE-LEAD-ANCHORS-10-Pcs/dp/B07JMKW5HR/ hope that helps.
Couple teardown pics on this comment
Using a Makerbeam Starter Kit + some extra 300mm beams, Corner Cubes, eye plates and longer bolts for mounting other badges and the power strip on the back.
It was the best build project kit I've done since Legos lol
That'd be zinc, yellow chromate. No cadmium to speak of. Example
If you do use a fish eye bolt, make sure it is welded closed. Welded hooks will hold a lot more weight and are usually made of higher quality steel.
-the one in the link is stainless, which is unnecessary, I just wanted the visual of a welded bolt
Good luck, but often the best way to tell a left handed screw from a right handed screw is the direction of the thread.
For right handed screws the phrase "right is tight, lefty if loose" will work.
For left hand screws however this does not work. Commonly these are called "reverse threaded screws or reverse thread bolts" in which case the opposite would be true. Turn left to tighten, right to loosen.
It is always important to use the correct screwdriver or wrench for applying these. If you use a right handed driver than it may cause problems with a left threaded screw/bolt.
https://imgur.com/a/gi7kf inside facing down with the side on the left and the back at the top of the image. You can see that I recessed the holes for the bolts that connect the side to the back. In this position, the mattress support is covering another one of he bolt holes. There are four bolts in total connecting the side to the back, so a total of sixteen structural ones. The mattress support is angle aluminum spray painted black and that too is bolted into threaded inserts in the legs.
The bolts are pan head Allen wrench types.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KM4OYJC/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_of_39?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CK8JTGGYA7XBB2ATWP70 so there isn't really a place for the baby's finger to get stuck.
I couldn't print a 3D wheel for the ThunderStick spinner like Glen has:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ymywodZ2V0
so I made an alternative. This wheel is very sturdy and will never break.
US Pricing:
SpinTrak: $69
Thunderstick spinner: $50
Spinner: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC
Wheel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFTS9RF
Bushing : https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-OD-X-13mm-ID-1-5-mm-THICKNESS-6061-ALUMINUM-TUBE-PIPE-ROUND-L-12-INCH/113870820679?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
(I don't have a good source for bushings, so I cut from stock)
edit: correction: zinc plated:
https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Chromate-External-Flanged-Non-Serrated-Threads/dp/B00DD3TAU2
Yeah, works great holding bikes together
These could also work.
Male lifting eye.
Something similar. I don't know what size you would need
No I used this. uxcell 5/16-inch X 3-inch Male Thread Spring Loaded Hollow Wall Round Head Toggle Bolt 5pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J8GLJV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_853KDb36PB5NJ
These spring loaded bolt anchors might do the trick, might even be able to get em at Walmart. This is all an untested theory tho... lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J8GLJV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8AWzDb5DWHBVN
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YB1NKM?vs=1
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
oh also I should mention it needs to have slots like those buckles I showed, to allow weaving string or paracord through. So that it can be weaved on either end seperately and later, when someone attaches it together Click that's it. and yeah it is a fairly specific thing.
That reminds me that url that was linked, I was looking stuff and something along the security lines of a bolt seal but in much smaller form is definitely what I had in mind.
https://www.amazon.com/NovaVision-Brand-Containers-Trailers-Yellow/dp/B01N5W55IA
The two ends come apart on that listing, and you're meant to run one end through bolt slots on any cargo truck and then once it seals you can't take it off without tampering or bolt cutters.
Only in my case, I'd want there to be smaller sized and room for running paracord weaving through both ends. Hmmm.....
How thick are we talking here?
This bolt is 12" long
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009YB1NKM?vs=1
they do make eye bolts that are much shorter than what you can find at home depot.
something like this
again, check with a local ace hardware. their stores near me carry every uncommon piece of hardware you could imagine. if you don't have one nearby, i'd cut down one of the eye bolts you can find. i like the idea of being able to loosen the bolt and sliding it out of the channel instead of drilling through the roof rack.