Best climbing webbing according to redditors
We found 51 Reddit comments discussing the best climbing webbing. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 51 Reddit comments discussing the best climbing webbing. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I realize this may be slightly outside the bounds of "every day carry" but rest assured this backpack is always on/near me.
The things I have physically on me and basically all times are items: 6, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.
Everything else pretty much lives in the backpack and stays on me or in my car for access at a moments notice.
There are not great options in that size. And they start getting expensive!
Ewa Michalak is probably the best of the brands. Their FB line is likely to fit Omega-shaped narrow and projected with close-set center full boobs. They also have a nursing bra (woohoo!), But it's not reccommended to invest in those till your boobs have settled.
You are getting into custom order territory for EM. So for sizing, you should probably communicate with them directly.
For lounging, you may have more luck Frankensteining a bra. I'm only a 30FF/G so I have no idea how effective this would be for you. What I do is find a non wired bra that fits on the boobs, then add a support to make the band more appropriate.
My method is to find a bra with a sheathed elastic underneath and replace the elastic with an adjustable insert. I like to use these hooks withthis kind of webbing. You can sew little slots along the webbing to make adjustments (I'm not really sure how to explain that part).
The Frankenstein bras are not really supportive, but they do keep the girls somewhat contained.
Probably something like this: 2" Nylon Webbing
I was a little off in my first estimate of price due to already owned materials, but...
To make 4 flags, you will need:
price per flag: $14.85
Get some 3.25" wide Jute webbing. https://www.amazon.com/Jute-Webbing-3-25-Inches-yards/dp/B017Y8SFMK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494728105&sr=8-2&keywords=jute+webbing
Cut to length, mark your centerline and every foot and put in Grommets at reasonable intervals
Print out your hang tags on regular paper using the Avery label maker software (Template 5164), and the exported instrument data from LW or VW. (You can do this in LW now too I think, but I haven't played with it yet.
Cut out and laminate your hang tags.
Staple them in their appropriate location on the jute webbing.
Pros:
You won't have little white labels permanently stuck to your grid.
Your labels won't get fucked up when some one clamps a fixture to them.
You can quickly and easily make changes without pulling out a ladder.
The webbing can double as a focus tape.
If your Rep plot has multiple repeating systems you can use one tape for all of them
Laminating shit is fun and grommeting shit is the tits.
When you move on to a fly house you'll already have an awesome hang tag set.
Cons:
Since it's a fixed grid you'll have to hang the tape up before you start.
Could you just drive a post in between the trees so you have a more reasonable distance to span? Either that or just invest in some really long straps and tie them really high up in the trees. 1-inch polyester webbing should be sufficient, 2 inches if you really want it to be extra-strong.
You can get giant sections of poly webbing on Amazon if you want, Dutchware even sells there apparently: https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Polyester-Webbing-25-Feet/dp/B01HQARJ0A
To answer your other question, longer straps won't really affect the stability of the hammock. Maybe if there's a tremendous amount of wind or something, but that causes problems for any hammock. It'll just be a giant pain to take the whole setup down if you want it out of the way.
How about a DIY harness solution? Works great for me!
Here's all you need:
10-12' of 1" webbing - Here's 30' and it's only $7.85 - get creative and use the extra for additional straps. Get it here: https://www.amazon.com/Strapworks-Heavyweight-Polypropylene-Webbing-Strapping/dp/B01KTVG0KI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536581470&sr=8-3&keywords=webbing&dpID=41Rlrv4YwXL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1&psc=1
And some heavy duty adjustable buckles - here's 10 for $8:
https://smile.amazon.com/10-Adjustable-Release-Plastic-Buckles/dp/B00DCZRLZW/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DCZRLZW&pd_rd_r=a024606f-b511-11e8-bcdb-932140fb8169&pd_rd_w=2VDdD&pd_rd_wg=jlO0J&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=FQT5NVP8YN0D9B15J053&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=FQT5NVP8YN0D9B15J053
I assume you have an o-ring. Cut two pieces whatever length you need (lightly burn the ends with a lighter to stop fraying), double loop them through the o-ring and attach the buckles. Then pick out your favorite coffee table, footstool, pillow, etc. Attach straps first, then slide flared toy through the o-ring and mount up.
If you go this route, let me know how it works out.
Since the straps I looked up ("nylon runners") were at least $5 a pop, I bought a $10 roll of webbing strap (amazon link), cut them into 2' lengths and sewed the ends together with a sewing machine. I got a 75 foot roll, and only used half of it for all of what you see and some extra.
Could buy some buckles and webbing and make your own compression straps
Items used:
My Total: ~$150
It's hard to say how much time it took in total, but I'm guessing it took somewhere around 250 hours, maybe?
----
How I did it:
For the vest and arm-guards I used these foam mats which I got at homedepot.com, but I also spotted some at my local Big Lots.
I simply drew on the shapes, using a picture of a NCR ranger as a guide, then cut them out, painted them, and bam-shazam, finished. (The vest is held together with some this stuff and hot glue and the arm-guards are held on with that same rope-like stuff and velcro.)
And for the helmet I used a pepakura template printed onto card stock which I then cut out and glued together to make the a paper frame with the basic shape of the helmet. Next I coated the helmet in fiberglass resin, twice, before applying fiberglass cloth to the inside and coating that with more resin. After that I coated the entire outside of the helmet in Bondo body filler then sanded it down. This was to get rid of the jagged edges of the paper frame. I also added the dents at this stage. Finally, I used a rotary tool to cut out the ear hole, eyes, and mouth hole.
Once that was done I could move on to painting the thing. I coated the whole thing in a flat black spray-paint, inside and out, then used an olive green spray paint on the helmet.
The mask was a bit more complicated (probably unnecessarily so). With a disposable paint brush I applied a combiniation of a granite coloured spray-paint and and some sort of shiny, silver spray paint. (It actually worked really well, but I feel like there might have been a better way of doing it.)
Once all of the mask pieces (and damaged areas of the helmet) were painted grey, I attached the filter to the side with a nut and bolt through a hole that I drilled, and added the lenses, which came from a pair of ski goggles, using hot glue. I glued screen material (like the kind you would use for a window screen) to the inside of the filer, the ear hole, and the mouth hole so I could breath and hear in the damned thing, then put a little flashlight on the inside of the flashlight casing and glued those pieces to the side of the helmet after everything else was finished.
After that was the detailing. I enlarged some decals I found online, printed and cut out some stencils, then used white spray-paint and the stencils to get the numbers.
After that was done I could start to give it some age, dirt, and grime. I lightly sanded the newly painted helmet which was a little too shiny, and the numbers a little too crisp, then carved in the tally-marks on the side. Then I watered down a black acrylic paint and rubbed that over every surface with a paper towel, which took no time at all.
We're in the home stretch here...
Lastly was the rust effect. I lightly watered down some burgundy, brown, orange, yellow, and black acrylic paints and painted those on, being sure to use as little paint as possible and focusing on areas that would rust the most i.e. edges, corners, grooves, tally-marks.
For the trench coat I used a trench coat.
For the balaclava I used a balaclava.
For the pants I used pants.
I just got my first sewing machine a Elna EL2000 and was wondering if it would be able to sew through nylon straps such as these.
Thanks
No it'll fray. Maybe if you do it with a hot knife, but, honestly, just pick up a spool of nylon strapping: https://smile.amazon.com/Strapworks-Heavyweight-Polypropylene-Webbing-Strapping/dp/B01KTVG0KI
Have you tried just searching online for nylon webbing?
Here's a large roll of it on amazon.
Here's a shorter section on ebay.
Here's a site that specializes in strapping.
Plenty more results from a quick search if that's the type you're looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/Strapworks-Heavyweight-Polypropylene-Webbing-Strapping/dp/B07JJ6HFY2
Tucker's hitch and 15 ft of this stuff is what I have used for the past couple of years. I like cheap and easy... http://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design®-Polypro-Webbing/dp/B001QL2C26
You could whip up some of the thicker "tree huggers" for even less.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CD1826/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1449730194&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=2inch+webbing
Just tie the loops on the ends (you'll have plenty of extra material to play with). It's also really easy material to stitch together on a sewing machine if you want to make a for-reals set.
https://www.amazon.com/Strapworks-Heavyweight-Polypropylene-Climbing-Webbing/dp/B01KTVAJFA/
https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Polyester-Webbing-25-Feet/dp/B01HQARJ0A
Webbing. Probably polyester. Maybe nylon. What are the straps on/used for?
The rappelling I've done was with a harness I tied myself with tube webbing $40 for 20, $50 for 30 yards on Amazon. Details say 4046 pounds at 100 yards. Sounds like what you're remembering.
If you have a sewing machine available (even at a friend's or something) buy some Voile and some webbing and make your own.
It's way cheaper, plus (with two yards of fabric) there's enough to make more than one. If you put thought into how to make it, it can be just as sturdy as a commercial bag.
This is what I've done, I'm still on the first bag. A dozen+ mashes and it's still doing fantastic.
I'm working on some Halo Armor, and I'll be using Nylon Straps and Plastic Buckles to hold my pieces in place.
My intent is to glue (or otherwise fasten, depending on what holds best) the straps to the inside of the pieces, so I can put them on and clip them around whatever body part they're on (shins and chest/back, for example), or to clip pieces so they'll hold in place (mostly clipping thigh pieces to the belt to hold them up, and upper arm pieces to torso for the same reason).
It kinda depends on the piece, really. My forearm pieces more or less hold themselves in place by how well they fit around the wrist. I like the velcro tutorial posted here, too.
I did the same thing and used some paracord, like mentioned by others, it stretches and is not too kind to trees. A few weeks ago I broke open the piggy bank and spent 8 bucks on some polyester webbing straps, with that I had enough to make two sets. If you have questions on how I can show with pictures and stuff tomorrow.
Dude.
This is so helpful. Thank you. What did you go with as far as thread - like a tough nylon? I'm thinking that what I will need to do is go through the fabric of the jacket and some nylon strapping, kind of like this stuff. My current thought is to add a "back cinch" sort of similar to what SPES has done with their Hussar jacket: http://histfenc.us/design/_gallery/_orginal/313.jpg
I put this on my table. Attached by screwing some nylon webbing to the table, threaded with D-rings. If you go with the webbing, put a bunch of superglue on the webbing and allow it to dry first, that will make it more solid so you can screw through it without it binding up and shredding.
I used something similar to the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QL2C26/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501376949&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=poly+webbing&dpPl=1&dpID=51Bau1rCvGL&ref=plSrch
Just search for poly webbing or something similar.
Okay, try this. Get a length of flat nylon webbing long enough to stretch from your bathroom door to a solid anchor. Fasten one end to the bathroom door, the other to your anchor.
homemade climbing webbing leash: https://imgur.com/ERikf6D
It's a little dirty because of all the dragging around campsites, but eh. That's how you know it's real. :P
This is my favorite non-leather material for leashes. Wide, flat, soft, easy to knot, and very strong. You can get it in just about any length. I think I ordered a 30 foot pre-cut pack and made 3 leashes out of it. The knots look bad, but they are functional/strong and also easy to grab onto.
edit: this is the brand of webbing I used: https://www.amazon.com/SGT-KNOTS-Bluewater-Tubular-Webbing/dp/B07H3FGLLL. It's made of nylon, but does not feel rough & cutting like the nylon dog leashes you find in pet shops.
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leather leash: https://imgur.com/6JwJ142
For what it's worth, my super sturdy buy-it-for-life leather leashes don't have any bolts/rivets at all, just heavy duty stitching.
Get some nylon webbing and some slides or tension locks and releases for the harness. For the pouches you could just use socks and fill them with something soft rather than an inflatable - its not like you're gonna be out on the town wearing that thing.
You could probably modify an old backpack for it too, if you dont have access to a sewing machine or a mom.
I just bought the same 1 inch webbing from Amazon, 25 yards for less than 8 bucks. You don't even need to stitch anything, just cut two yards worth of webbing and just do a figure 8 on a bight knot at the end of each. Bonus: you still got an extra 21 yards to play with.
The other amazon link is a great option, but if you aren’t afraid to learn a few knots, try this. If you cut it in half, you’ll still have 2 15 foot straps. I like to get at least 12ft but no more than 15.
For a full, easy to use kit click here $60
or if you are willing to learn a couple basic knots and how to rig it with carabiners- line and youll need 3 of these
and setup the line so it's only a foot or so off the ground when you stand in the middle of it and have a friend who's hand you can hold.
I am so glad you responded. I misread your original response. So you'd recommend lining the entire permiter with the webbing linked below for 1.1 rip stop. Would the 1.9 oz rip stop require webbing?
https://www.amazon.com/Strapworks-Heavyweight-Polypropylene-Webbing-Strapping/dp/B01KTVB0LC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=nylon%2Bwebbing&qid=1554732336&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
You can do shrink wrap.. but it's hot. But cheap..
I use vet wrap but it's short and can get expensive if you play with it a lot.
How about straps and buckles?
Something like this
With buckles like these
Just a thought.
My go to for attaching pieces is nylon webbing , when you don't need the authentic look. It's relatively cheap on Amazon and tough as hell, I keep my steel legs up with a nylon harness.
You could sew it into existing pieces, and attach it with tough plastic buckles.
I made a very simple pattern in CAD and had it printed on 11x17 Tabloid Paper. The construction is fairly straightforward, I had two pieces of foam sandwiched in between the patterned fabric and some scrap denim I had laying around. Having the denim on the bottom layer provides some strength, as the strap doesn't go through the padding. The denim also feels very nice against the skin and will not slip around. Using some Bias Tape, I finished the edges of the pad. I used Uncle Mike's Quick Detach hardware for this. (I made another pad using Blackhawk hardware and those are a much lower build quality.)
As far as a 3 point sling, they seem like they would be pretty easy to make if you had the right hardware. I found it difficult to find information on the internet about how to create different loops with the webbing. Buying one of these will give you enough webbing to make just about all the straps and slings you would need.
Hmm. You could build a pair of Xero's using that type of strap. I might try that.
http://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design%C2%AE-Polypro-Webbing/dp/B00E0M4WS0/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1398459624&sr=1-4
Specifically, they recommend and carry stuff like this, of which - again - I'm not too fond of. It's too easy to have split, fray, or just simply come out too large when cutting: http://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design%C2%AE-Black-Webbing/dp/B001LO47JO