(Part 2) Best digital camera accessories according to redditors

Veni's IEM Longevity Rule 1. Don't put them in your pockets. When you pull them out, you will stress the cable and connecting joints. This is probably the most common reason why one side or the other cuts out intermittently or dies prematurely.

Veni's IEM Longevity Rule 2. Use the right technique when coiling your IEM cable. Here are two good ways - the first from the Wall Street Journal, of all places! and the second from Decibullz. I'm not a huge fan of their product but I like this video :-)

Veni's IEM Longevity Rule 3. Store your IEMs appropriately. Personally, IMO the best way to store IEMs (especially expensive ones!) is in a Pelican case. I like the 1020 because it is big but not too big, although you can get them in different sizes. Pelican also makes these foam cutouts for their cases that are pre-cut into small cubes, so you can tear off some cubes to get the internal shape you want for storage. Here is a link to the case and a link to the cutout

I want to say he has something attached to the camera something like this GoPro Karma Grip for GoPro HERO6 Black/HERO5 Black (GoPro Official Accessory) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PQRB4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_biW1BbQ00NW0S but for the headband

I have a cheap TN panel and could read it fine as well. Having one of these helps.

I'm sorry, but why can't you put a gopro on a gimbal? Gopro MAKES a handheld gimbal...

The SL2 is a subcompact, so really small. Good camera, though. If you have big hands, just you may want a larger body. The T6 is outdated at this point, so that's not a particularly great price. I would recommend the t7i as it just hit the market:

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Camera-18-55mm-75-300mm-Accessory/dp/B078J9VHYK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539737504&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=t7i&psc=1

One additional thing I would suggest-- all soon-to-be photographers doubt me on this until they see the staggering difference it makes on their photos-- a 50mm f1.8 lens. They're cheap and deliver excellent optical performance for the dollar. Having a wide aperture lens will be critical for action shots. Amazing for portraits as it gives you that creamy background blur. Will be a great lens to learn the importance of aperture and the fundamentals of exposure.

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Filter-Blower-Pouch-Keeper/dp/B015BMSQS4/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539737701&sr=1-5&keywords=50mm+1.8

1. Your phone.
   
2. I have a cheap cable release which plugs into the USB port. (https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Control-DSC-RX100-DSC-RX10-DCS-HX400V/dp/B06XBYPJYB/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2YRGSHI51U38G&keywords=sony+intervalometer&qid=1557649302&s=gateway&sprefix=sony+interval%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-5)

I own a Canon 6D and mostly do astrophotography, portraits, and street photos. I have a ceremony coming up and thought that maybe it's about time to buy a good telephoto lens. My budget is up to $2000. I currently own the Canon 50mm f/1.8 and the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8. Every website I read suggests only Canon lens, but I was wondering if there were any other telephoto lens from other companies that you guys would suggest.

If not, I might just go with one of these two:

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-200mm-2-8L-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B0033PRWSW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497036583&sr=8-4&keywords=Canon+EF+70-200mm+f%2F2.8

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-200mm-Lens-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000I1X3W8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497036569&sr=8-4&keywords=Canon+EF+70-200mm+f%2F4L

Wondering how much of a problem the weight would be for the f/2.8 version.

With the A7III's new battery system, in my opinion the 5D4 has lost its only edge on the Alpha series cameras minus weatherproofing. The 5D4 certainly has around 6 more megapixels (30 vs. 24.2), but this difference won't be noticeable. The A7III burst fires faster, shoots higher frame rate video, has an articulating screen to get those low shots where you don't want to get down or arch your neck for the high shots. It has built in sensor stabilization which is VERY useful for shooting longer focal lengths (50mm and beyond it becomes very useful, and for handheld video). The A7III shoots true 4K (4096x2160) without a cropped field of view, but the Canon shoots 3840x2160 4K with a 1.6x crop (they can't seem to make a 4K cam that can shoot cropless). As a video editor, Sony's cinematic video profiles are superior to Canon's CLOG and other recording codecs.

Sony 24-70 f/2.8: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-FE-24-70mm-2-8-Lens/dp/B01BESQYJW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519712066&sr=8-4&keywords=sony+24-70

Sony 50mm f/1.4: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL50F14Z-Planar-50mm-Lens/dp/B01IALYGU0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519712091&sr=1-2&keywords=sony+50mm+1.4

Sigma 24-70 2.8: https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-24-70mm-2-8-Lens-Canon/dp/B002NLHXQ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519712115&sr=1-1&keywords=sigma+24-70+2.8

Sigma 50mm 1.4: https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-50mm-F1-4-Lens-Canon/dp/B00JPL7CK6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519712138&sr=1-3&keywords=sigma+50mm+1.4

Sigma MC-11 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-Converter-Adapter-EF-Mount-Essential/dp/B01D0JN6NU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519712161&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=sigma+mc-11&psc=1

It's a shutter release button. Something to screw into where the shutter release cord normally goes. The range from cheap plastic 5 dollar options to 50 dollar nice engraved versions.

https://www.amazon.com/VKO-Shutter-Release-Compatible-Fujifilm-x/dp/B01M2COLAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543218427&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shutter+release+button&dpPl=1&dpID=41bYgYVbfmL&ref=plSrch

Personally it makes it easier for me to hit the button smoothly since I have sort of shaky hands. This plus the hot shoe thumb attachment is really helpful for shaky hands.

I have a Nikon D7000, and I just use a little wired shutter release that duplicates the two-stage shutter button on the camera exactly, with the added feature of locking down to trigger the "bulb" mode for as long as I want.

The Cannon Magic Lantern solution is one option, but personally I use the wired remote anyway for any longish tripod photography because it doesn't shake the camera when I press the button. Mup mode + off camera trigger = no shake even with the longest lenses.

However, as /u/zeFinn pointed out elsewhere, it's a good idea to stack photos for long exposures instead of just taking one long picture; it helps cut down on noise from the camera sensor heat as well as normal noise because it can be filtered out in the stacking process. I only got away with this because it was about 20°F out, if it had been warmer the picture would have hot pixels everywhere. (if you look at that image in full resolution, the hot pixels are really obvious. That was nearly 20 minutes in t-shirt weather, so it turned out really badly.)

Just got my first DSLR- a Canon 70d with the kit 18-135 3.5-5.6 lens- and I'm very interested in getting the Canon 50mm 1.8 STM lens. My only question is, there are listings for The lens itself for $125, then there's stuff like the lens with all kinds of accessories for $125 as well, even still from Canon. Reading the reviews, the accessories are far from the best, but is there really any reason at all not to get the kit?

It depends on what you mean by "Work well for video".

Realistically, you're either going to be lighting a scene correctly or you're not. If you intend to be doing any run and gun shooting, then you'll need at minimum fast glass, and you won't find a fast zoom lens in your budget.

In your price range, I would pickup a Sigma superzoom, http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-18-250mm-3-5-6-3-Canon-Digital/dp/B001PGXEH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331227039&sr=8-1

That will give you a versatile lens for a lot of situations. It's just not very fast.

You'll have hard time doing any kind of photojournalism without a telephoto zoom. With that lens, plus your 50 prime, you'll be covered for stills in most situations, except maybe low light situations where the 50 doesn't cut it.

From there, you can start investing in some nice lenses as time goes on.

I would also seriously rethink my major. Get a more marketable degree while still learning about this trade, but don't go into huge debt in hopes of becoming a cinematographer, there simply aren't enough of those gigs to go around.

I second this. You should be able to get this combo with about 200 bucks to spare right now. If you buy used, maybe even cheaper. The only problem is that the Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 is highly sought after right now. So if you purchase it, it may take a day or two to come in. I wouldn't waste your time with the FE version of the 50mm f/1.8 since its autofocus in the dark environments can be quite unreliable. The 85mm f/1.8 is a really great bang for buck prime you can get for around $500 bucks.

There's also the option of upgrading what you already have. I don't know too much about Canon lenses since I'm a Sony user. But for your A6000, I'd consider getting either of the Sigma f/1.4 lenses (16mm, 30mm, 56mm) if you got any left over cash. That way you'll have a body with a nice creamy prime and another one with a solid zoom for more versatility. Telephoto options for Sony are scarce and I think all the ones that are f/2.8 will eat up your entire budget. There's f/4 options or you can adapt a Canon telephoto for much cheaper.

a7ii

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Alpha-Mirrorless-Digital-Camera/dp/B00PX8CHO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=a7ii&qid=1556891983&s=gateway&sr=8-3


Tamron Lens

https://www.amazon.com/Tamron-28-75mm-Mirrorless-Limited-Warranty/dp/B07CSLM1X8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tamron+28+75&qid=1556892002&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Sony 85mm f/1.8

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL85F18-1-8-22-Medium-Telephoto-Camera/dp/B06WLGFWGX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=85+f%2F1.8&qid=1556892184&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Sigma 16mm f/1.4

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-16mm-DC-DN-Contemporary/dp/B077BWD2BB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sigma+16&qid=1556893117&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Sigma 30mm f/1.4

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-30mm-F1-4-Contemporary-Lens/dp/B01C3SCKI6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sigma+30&qid=1556893096&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Sigma 56mm f/1.4

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-Contemporary-Advanced-Travel-Bundle/dp/B07KSFNG5H/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sigma+56+f+1.4&qid=1556893069&s=gateway&sr=8-1


Sigma MC-11 Canon EF mount to Sony FE mount converter

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-Converter-Adapter-EF-Mount-Essential/dp/B01D0JN6NU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sigma+mc11&qid=1556893034&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Canon

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-200mm-Telephoto-Zoom-Cameras/dp/B000053HH5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CANON+EF+70-200&qid=1556892462&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/Coffee_Quill - it sounds like you need a wide lens to complement the 14-42 and the 25/1.7 - try the $499 Laowa 7.5mm f/2 for results like this and this on your 8-bit camera.

That said, if money really isn't an issue you really need a 10-bit (or RAW) cinema camera.

A cinema camera will give you more dynamic range and a deeper color palette than an 8-bit still camera.

Here and here are a couple of examples shot with the same lens on the $1295 BMPCC 4K.

A much better camera for serious filmmaking - and it uses your existing glass.

Hope this is helpful and good luck with your projects!

I personally love it, especially the design. It's almost completely metal so it's fairly heavy. There are some neat features, like a switch which lets you crank the shutter lever whilst not advancing the film for double exposures etc. Aperture and shutter priority (only works with camera supported lenses) allow for automatic exposure based on chosen aperture/shutter and the metering of the scene of course. I'm not a big fan of the empty screw shutter button so I recommend buying a screw on button like these: https://www.amazon.com/Shutter-Release-Fujifilm-Concave-Surface/dp/B01M2COLAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503680051&sr=8-3&keywords=shutter+button :) There is stop down metering mode which allows you to use non native lenses and still have the camera choose the shutter automatically. If you have any more questions just ask.

Hey, I have the same camera and intend on doing the same thing, only on Tuesday (8/14) night. I'll miss peak by one night... :/

I've never shot a meteor shower, though.

Anyway, I use the camera more with my refractor, but I do wide-angle shots sometimes, including one of the ISS I keep meaning to post (and hope to remember to do when I get home today). Here's things I've learned in my short time in astrophotography; remember, this is general stuff, as I've never shot a meteor shower:

• I put the lens in manual focus, find a decently bright star, turn on live-view, zoom in on the screen all the way, and focus. It's still kind of tricky, but it gets better with practice.
  
• While it's a nice lens, the kit lens has a terrible little focus ring. To keep it in focus, I use gaffer tape. I keep a couple feet of this stuff rolled up around a toothpick in my camera bag. It's awesome. It's like duct tape, but won't leave a residue on the camera. Don't use it on or near the optics, and take it off before putting the camera away. A tiny piece will do to hold the focus ring in place (1/2" square or less).
  
• I trust you have a tripod; a good solid tripod is a must.
  
• I think the answer for which ISO setting is this: Set it as high as you need it to get the shot, but as low as you can to avoid noise. Sorry for the vague answer, but it can change depending on what other settings you use. I like to start at 800 and go up or down.
  
• Your exposure length should give you a histogram peak somewhere in the middle. The big picture is: you don't want your histogram too close to either the left or right sides. To do that, you'll adjust exposure length, ISO, or aperture.
  
• I've heard people say to stop the aperture down a little to make sharper stars. It's a balance between that and actually capturing the stars as points, unless you want star trails... For a meteor shower, star trails might work. (I keep mine wide open, but I do more shooting with my telescope, not a lens.)
  
• Using a remote of some kind is a good idea to keep the camera stable while controlling exposure. There's also a setting to add a delay of 2 seconds before taking the exposure.
  
• There's also a thing called "the hat trick", where you cover the lens with a hat (or something), open the shutter, give the camera a second or two to stop shaking, then move your hat (starting the real exposure). Reverse to stop the exposure. I haven't done it, but it sounds reasonable.
  
• Take dark frames to eliminate noise, or use the built-in high-ISO noise reduction. This person said why better than I can.
  
• There's also a setting in the menus to dim the display. It'll keep from blinding you too much while using live view at night.
  
• I stick with RAW. It's not lossy. I like jpeg for everything else, because I'm not a pro. But for AP, I stick with RAW, since there are much fewer photons involved.
  
  All right, I feel like I'm missing some things. It's late, I'm working the night shift, and I don't have my notes with me. Also, I might be rambling. I really like the D5100, though, and I feel like there's a lot of tricks to learn. That's half the fun, though, right? :D

Bare minimum, you'll need some extension tubes. Kenko's are always my top recommendation, but Vello's are almost as good for a much lower price. Both have electrical contacts for autofocus and work identically. Extension tubes are just empty barrels, so image quality will not be affected.

Extension tube magnification depends on the focal length of the lens being used. Since both of your lenses are 50mm, an FD to EF adapter will not give you ay benefit over using your EF lens.

If you're interested in buying a macro lens, it's actually quite difficult to go wrong, as almost all EF macro lenses are very good. Having said that, extension tubes are more than enough to get started with macro, so no need to jump the gun.

Macro lens recommendations:

• Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM - Very solid lens for a very good price. Image quality is on par with the L macro lens.
  
• Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM - Weatherproof and has IS. If you need any of these features, take the L over the regular canon macro. If not, the regular canon macro will serve just as well.
  
  Do not get:
  
  
• Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro Lens - requires an adapter to get 1:1 photos.
  
• Zeiss 50mm f/2.0 Makro-Planar ZE Macro Lens - A very expensive lens that only does 2:1 and has no autofocus. Good image quality but lacking for a macro lens.
  
• Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro - A special purpose lens that requires special equipment to use. Definitely not for beginners.
  
  Since higher magnifications require more light, a flash is highly recommended. Any flash will do, but you'll want to be able to trigger it when it's not on the camera. Something like a Yongnuo RF-603 is a very cheap way to do that.
  
  You'll also want some modifiers for your flash. You can buy some (diffusers, snoots, etc.) or make your own.
  
  The most important thing, I feel, is a good guide for starting in macro. Macrophotography by LordV is pretty much the holy grail, and has a few tips on building your own modifier, if that's something you're into.
  
  

You need an intervalometer. Nikon doesn't make an official one for your camera, so you need to get a third party one. I would not spend more than ~$30 on one.

I just got the cheapest one I could find and its worked fine for me. There are several other models on amazon like this one or this one that have slightly better ratings.

This would be a great add-on.

my favorite dinosaur is a Velociraptor. Those things are bitch'n.

Yognuo makes some incredible flashes for the price - fully compatible with Canon, Nikon, etc. This is a superb flash, and this is the accompanying trigger for Canon 450D. There's a receiver built into the 560, but I don't think you can buy just one trigger.

The pro Canons use a different connector from the axial plug of the low-end models.

https://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Remote-Shutter-Release-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y34AK6 or
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B005LT7CE2/

> How much does that go for?

They're not that hard to find if you put in a little bit of effort.

It’s $180, I think it’s probably like the best deal you can get for a lens. The lens is made of all metal and all the rings on it are super smooth. Kamlan 50mm prime f1.1

I bought a 50mm 1.8 that came with a kit of 3 filters and some additional products on Amazon. It's an incredible lens for both photography & video that I highly recommend. It is a wide angle so unlike the kit lenses with zoom it's range will require you to move around a lot more so keep that in mind. I am still figuring out when to use the filters it came with, so far I haven't really used them.

The other lens I just purchased is a novelty lens called the Helios 44m-4. These lenses come imported from Russia and is strictly a manual lens. If you really want to learn manual like I do, I'd recommend getting this one, the price of the lens ranges from $40-$60 which is a bargain for how gorgeous these shots come out! Haven't utilized the video too much yet but so far I am loving it. You also need to buy an adapter ring for Canon if you plan on purchasing since it is a none Canon lens.

Those are the ones I have so far!

Well, depending on his interest: starscapes vs telezoom celestial bodies, I would buy him a good prime lens (50mm or 85mm) that is used. Look for f/1.8 or less (the 1.8 is way more affordable). The other great thing about these two lenses are they're very versatile. He can use them just about anywhere that he goes and they are excellent in low light situations. He will definitely, more so than the lens, need a tripod. You cannot get a good shot without something to hold the camera still.

He'll need a good remote release cord so that he'll be able to keep the shutter open and get that great shot.

Again, I don't know much about the telescoping zoom lenses but this one happens to be in your price range. You could do this and the remote release but he'll still need a tripod of some kind. Do you know if he has one?

The Tokina 12-24 is with in your budget then.

This lens is on my camera 90% of the time. Its decently sharp.

While this isn’t a Black Friday deal, I found it. I could save a little if I don’t get the bundle and I just get the lens

Indeed, with the Yongnuo Wireless Shutter Release Transceiver Kit . Inexpensive and reliable.

From my list that would be THIS

I would get this:

D3300 Body Only - $309

Nikon 35mm f/1.8 G - $167

Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 - $269

It's going to cost a little bit more money, but you can mitigate some of the costs by buying used. Just going from your options, I would probably go for the 70-300

For $370 the HP ZR24w is a great 24" S-IPS ("super" in plane switching) display. I bought one for my mom who is an amateur photographer and she loves it. I enjoy using it as well. One thing I've noticed (and hasn't yet been a problem) is that the panel gets quite warm and radiates a significant amount of heat.

A step up would be the HP LP2475w (which I haven't actually used) for $550, or the Dell u2411 (which I have used and like) for $500. Both of these monitors are also IPS displays.

I have been using two 17" Dell ultrasharp 1703FP PVA (Patterned vertical alignment) panels since they came out in 2003. They are decent monitors. VA (Vertical alignment; in order of quality: MVA, PVA, S-PVA) panels used to be considered high-end, although most high-end panels are now IPS.

I put off buying a cheap larger 22" or 24" TN panel because I wanted to save up for a larger 27" or 30" IPS panel. I do a lot of programming (which would have benefited from a large cheap panel) but also a lot of graphic design and photo editing (which would not).

After ~8 years with the same monitors I finally upgraded to a NEC PA271W-BK-SV 2 months ago. the NEC has hardware calibration and a 2560x1440 resolution. If you can wait and save up your money, I would absolutely recommend a 27" panel. The resolution and color accuracy are phenomenal. The Dell u2711 is a great cheaper 27" IPS panel.

One possible negative about high pixel-density IPS panels is that a lot of manufacturers seem to be using very aggressive anti-glare coatings that can give the screen a "gritty" look. Like adding a slight amount of noise to a photo in Photoshop. The NEC that I have has this problem, but after a while I stopped noticing it.

Search google for IPS anti-glare coating and you will get a lot of hits. You may or may not notice it. Unfortunately, you won't be able to tell until you have the monitor in front of you.

Whatever monitor you get (unless you get a NEC SpectraView), you are going to need a monitor calibrator. I own the recently discontinued X-Rite i1 Display 2 (still an OK choice), but don't have any experience with anything else. Read reviews and pick one, but be prepared to spend at least $100.

Things to avoid:

• TN (twisted nematic) - cheap and good response time, but horrible contrast and color accuracy.
  
  
• LED backlighting - can be brighter (not desirable if you are trying to get accurate prints) and can have issues with white point and color accuracy.
  
  
• Claims of high dynamic contrast ratio - dynamic contrast ratio doesn't mean squat. Manufacturers will even inflate the normal contrast ratio. NEC claims that my monitor has a 1000:1 contrast ratio, when in reality I get closer to 600:1.
  
  
• Response times: shorter time should mean better, but manufacturers never specify how they measure this and so the numbers are practically meaningless. And a fast response time shouldn't matter for graphic design anyway.
  
  Monitors are always getting cheaper, but good monitors are still expensive. And a good monitor means nothing if it isn't properly calibrated.
  
  Good luck and happy shopping.

Any reason you must go Nikkor when there are some very quality third party lenses?

I was pushed to this lens from a couple of different Flickr groups, and the work I have seen come out of this lens is stellar.

http://www.amazon.com/Tokina-12-24MM-Digital-Canon-Cameras/dp/B001LD51H2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1302356172&sr=8-7

The price is certainly better. And from what I've read, the Tokina is better than the DX lens and nearly as good as the full frame from Nikon.

AmazonSmile Link 1: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Art Lens for Canon

AmazonSmile Link 2: Sigma MC-11 Mount Converter Lens Adapter (Sigma EF-Mount Lenses to Sony E Cameras) w/Essential Photo Bundle

^AmazonSmile is an Amazon feature that donates 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost.

Just remember that there are 2 versions one with Image Stabilization and one without. The price difference is quite different too so buy carefully.

With IS 70-200mm L

Without IS 70-200mm L

Hmm, PENN closed right? I remember going to a Ritz or something that carried a lot of Oly and a bit of Pana, this was years ago tho, my sister lives between DC and Baltimore... I'm still shocked there aren't more camera stores in an area with so much press. As for big stores with liberal return policies that carry Laowa:

https://www.amazon.com/laowa-ve7520mftstblk-Micro-Cameras-16-9-MP/dp/B073BR5N2K/

My Laowa 7.5/2 arrived in a vacuum sealed plastic bag btw (inside it's box, with some padding). I mention it only because if they're still doing that then it'll be obvious it's opened if/when you return it so you better have a good excuse/reason ready.

Out of about a dozen lenses that I've bought (mostly Pana, some Oly, a couple Sigma, and one Samyang), Laowa's was actually the only one that came packaged in a way that would reveal it's been opened/used. That's always rubbed me the wrong way about camera gear, comes packaged worse than a $300 SSD or $500 CPU.

B&H carry Laowa too and they've never hassled me about returns, tho the only thing I returned because I changed my mind was an unopened P&S, the other returns were over flaws/issues. They do pack a heck of a lot better than Amazon.

I haven't used it for long periods of time, but I haven't experienced any of this with my X-T2 or signs of it with the X100F so far. Could just be the buttons you're using? I bought these for mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2COLAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNNERA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the foam
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000922I9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As of 11/12/20 at 3 pm EST, Amazon has it for less than that NEW! (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-200mm-Lens-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000I1X3W8/ref=pd_cp_p_3)

What justifies the high cost of the Manfrotto tripods? The legs cost ~$150 and the Ball head is another $100 or so. Also, would a fisheye lens be suitable for astrophotography?

Comment: The D3100 does not have an IR receiver, thus a cord release is necessary:
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-MC-DC2-Release-Digital-Cameras/dp/B001F6TXME/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346031587&sr=1-4&keywords=nikon+remote

For cons - worst case, I'm fairly certain I can add an extension tube to use EF-S lenses on FF bodies. It's not great, but it looks like it could work worst case, and if it didn't work out I could just sell it.

I like the idea of getting a prime, but that Samyang is pretty far out of my range ($500 at B&H). I won't get the 75-300 as people say its bad, but from the other stuff on here, most people say that the 55-250 has solid image quality (someone even saying comparable to the 70-300L)



The Canon sounds great but some other commenters have reccomended other things in the thread:

Tamron 70-300

Sigma 18-250

Do you think any of these would be better for me than the 55-250?

Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6. I hate it, but it's cheap.

You need to recalibrate your settings pretty frequently they aren't expensive thats why people usually buy them.

Most people don't buy sub $100 devices and rent them out. It just doesn't make much sense.

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Calibrator-Displays-Version/dp/B000JLO31M

Yeah it was. I think it turned out well alright, though if I had enough equipment I would have set up a t2i or t3i and plugged in an intervalometer. I did a timelapse of it with my Canon 7D while I was in Chicago on youtube and can be seen here. http://youtu.be/uCNi22wqjqg.

I like this option because you have higher ppi to make a better quality image and more control with the image style.

do you think this lens would do it? the angle seems good but i'm not sure if that angle is at max zoom or minimum zoom.

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-18-55mm-3-5-5-6G-AF-S-Nikkor/dp/B000ZMCILW/ref=sr_1_1/187-7070765-5832027?ie=UTF8&qid=1377887434&sr=8-1&keywords=nikkor+18-55+mm+lens

Alright so unfortunately I wont be able to get the Tokina 11-16mm because there really no way I can afford it at the moment. But I came up with a new set i'm trying to choose from, a couple from the ones you showed me and one I found after googling.

I don't know if me telling you this will help you help me at all but i'm mainly going to be using the lens I buy for video. I am starting to be a cameraman for a friend of mine and I go with him to his performances on stage and record him. I'm also going to use it for music videos. So any lens that's good for that and is wide angle is what I want.

Anyway, the lens are:

Rokinon FE14M-C 14mm F2.8
(I have this one first because I found this video on youtube and I was pretty amazed by the quality of the video, I don't know if it's because the camera is a T3i or what, I like it.)

[Tamron AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G7PIBC)

and the Tokina AF 12-24mm f/4

If you're spending the money to take a trip to Singapore, perhaps it wouldn't be a bad idea to look for a medium-price lens that bridges the wide and tele range, and also bring the 50mm (which weighs nothing and has superpowers in low light).

I like my Sigma 18-250 for this purpose: affiliate link to Amazon. It's not the sharpest, and definitely isn't your best bet for taking pictures of people jumping around in the dark, but that's what the 50's for.

I use this calibrator. It's a little pricy, but totally worth it, as your color will drift over time.

get the Laowa ultrawide amazon referral link there

you'll probably find a 12mm lacking for real estate

I'm not familiar with any of the lenses; but, have you considered a 70-200mm f/4L and 1.4x III Extender? The total price would be around $1200 and you'd get a fixed f/4 aperture without the extender, and f/5.6 with the extender. The downside is you don't get IS. For that, you could get the 70-200mm f/4L IS; but, that brings the total cost to about $1800 (ouch!).

I picked up one of the Kamlan 1.1 lenses for my a6000. Hasn't come in yet though. Friday.

First do as others have suggested and make sure you understand how it is supposed to work to focus, if you find it is not always working right the switch in your camera could be broken. You can get one of these to test it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G9TYHE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If that works all the time your button is broken, I picked up a used 5D and had similar weird intermittent problems then it totally stopped working, I took it apart and found the first piece of metal in the two stage switch had broken, it can be fixed but it requires taking basically the whole camera apart, my camera works great now.

Well, you could rent it with the 70-200 f/4 IS and see whether the extra stop is worth it. If you do lots of action, chances are it will. You can drop $200 or so off the price if you get it slightly used from Keh, which I've had good experiences with. It's even more if you want the previous version, here are image comparisons.

Sorry, not sure if its worth selling them separately, the trigger are only $25 on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/RF-603-Wireless-Transceiver-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0099SGFZI )

This would be a great all purpose lens with plenty of zoom: Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM IF Lens for Canon Auto Focus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PGXEH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-qT1xb5H70BJM

I've used it with my T3i and its a good bang for the buck.

Isn't it worth spending $32 for the peace of mind on something like this

I bought this for my 7D (works for 5d), it has been trucking on for years. Never had a problem, however I wouldn't use the onboard backlight for illuminating the screen when it's dark because it drains the battery, which actually has lasted forever. However I just bought this a few weeks ago before the kickstarter fund ended. It's just about the best intervalometer that's going to be on the market. It can do bramping for sunsets and sunrises, plus the creator is planning on making it open source for more features to be added (controlling your camera via bluetooth with your ipad or iphone for example).

• Gorillapod- really cool and fun to use (My uncle's friend actually owns the company!)
  
• A prime lens is definitively a good idea.
  
• You probably don't need to get a fancy remote shutter, a simple one will do (I use a 10 dollar one that I bought a few years back)
  
• you can never have too much memory!
  
  EDIT- I failed at bulleting

There are a bunch of different ones but what I think you want is one like this where you can lock that shutter button. Ideally if you can get one that’s JUST the shutter release so you’re not fiddling with other settings....

Edit: this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LZxBCb5PBM1ZZ

This may not be the exact one you need, check the compatibility.

are these the 35mm 1.8 dx lens you were referring to for low light stuff and these for the 18-55 kit lens for general purpose? And if I don't get any good lenses right away, but stick with the 18-55mm that come with the camera, how much of a difference will it be once I upgrade to the better lenses?

I'm in the same boat. I actually like my copy. Plenty of keepers and for my 5D there is nothing that I know of that will give me 300mm for the $60 (I think) I paid for it. It's confusing that folks here universally bash it but on amazon the reviews are mostly great (4 out of 5 stars) and there are a ton of decent samples on flickr

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCUQP4X/

https://www.flickr.com/groups/1406096@N25/pool/

I also have a D3100. To keep the shutter open for an arbitrary amount of time, you need to use the Bulb shutter setting. Go into Manual mode and "slow" the shutter speed to the setting past 30" (30 seconds). In Bulb setting, the shutter stays open as long as the shutter release button is depressed. If you want to do long exposures without camera shake, you're going to need to buy a shutter release cable. I use the Nikon MC-DC2, and I think that's the only one that works with the D3100.

As for seeing Live View (or the viewfinder) while the camera is at ground level, there are accessories you can buy, like this expensive one. I don't know of any others off the top of my head. I'm sure you'll be able to find something with a bit of searching, though.

I rented the 11-16 F 2.8 and loved it , but I wanted a little more scope so I decided to get the Tokina 12 - 24 F4

LOVE IT one of my fave lenses.

http://www.amazon.com/Tokina-12-24mm-AT-X-124-Lens/dp/B001LD51H2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396042795&sr=8-2&keywords=tokina+12-24mm+f4

Really? Would this not work? Because I used one with my d3200 and never had an issue

Neewer Digital Timer Remote Shutter Release Trigger(Replacement for MC-DC2)for Nikon D90 D5000 D5200 D7100 D4 Digital Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NFwtDbYPK5GFF

ah yea then the a6400 is perfect for you. If you want a faster aperture with zoom, it isn't cheap by any means, but the most reasonably priced lens I could find was a Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 for roughly $900. of course you can look at the G Master lineup if you want the absolute finest glass for the camera but those are $1200+ for the cheapest. You wont find larger zoom ranges with faster apertures with very few exceptions. keep in mind the APS-C crop factor makes the 28-75mm look like a 42mm-112mm. the Fstops will be roughly 4.2 after you account for the crop factor, but i think it will manage.

In terms of super fast lenses below F2, id say look at primes, but for the most part, they wont be pin-sharp unless stopped down to F2 and higher, but that's more than enough for low light. If you want an artsy lens, Kamlan 50mm F1.1 Mk1 is a fully manual lens that isnt super particularly sharp but can make really really artsy images, still videos. if you dont want to absolutely cripple your bank account and still have the autofocus and decent super fast apertures, you can look at Sony 35mm F1.8, Sony 50mm F1.8, or Sony 85mm F1.8. Those are kinda budget lenses. what you are paying for is the fast apertures, not necessarily the quality of the glass itself. If you look at Sony G or Sony G Master, you are looking at spending more per lens but obviously at increasing quality. You could look at some Sigma glass as well. Zeiss is expensive but good.

anyone else have other recommendations, I'd say the tamron 28-75 is decently low light and zoom for both applications.

Yup, you need an intervalometer. Here's a cheap one that I have:

>Neewer Digital Timer Remote Shutter Release Trigger(Replacement for MC-DC2)for Nikon D90 D5000 D5200 D7100 D4 Digital Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA

I use these

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Calibrator-Laptop-Displays/dp/B000JLO31M

The X-Rite i1 Display 2 is the pro standard. If you buy an $800+ NEC monitor with 98.8% AdobeRGB, the optional calibrator is one of these rebranded for NEC. It goes through everything automatically and is usually perfect when it's done, if you choose the right settings. It works fine on most monitors and should be pretty accurate even if you don't have a pro photo monitor.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aputure-Control-compatible-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y34AK6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417525971&sr=8-3&keywords=intervalometer+canon

That’s the one I’m using (or a different branded version of it). Very happy with it, does the job, no problems. Bought it 5 years back or so, still with the original battery.

I have one of these, if that's what you're looking for. I used it a handful of times, mostly just video work.

Let me know

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Digital-Shutter-Release-Trigger/dp/B005LTH7QA
I use it all the time and love it. It will allow you to set a pre-timer so that you can get into your car and then you can set the long exposure time through it also. I use it primarily for timelapse photography. Worth every penny.

And this is the lens that I'm supposed to get.

https://www.amazon.com/210306-18-35mm-Cameras-Advanced-Travel/dp/B00NUHDCG4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1465593467&sr=8-11&keywords=Sigma+18-35+f%2F1.8

Is this the lens you are using? If so, does it work with XT-2 without other adapters?


https://www.amazon.com/Kamlan-Aperture-Manual-Standard-Mirrorless/dp/B06XTBNBK6

The app does have bulb mode too. You just can't set it. So you set it to bulb mode, and then manually open and close shutter.
https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Control-DSC-RX100-DSC-RX10-DCS-HX400V/dp/B06XBYPJYB

If you need extreme protection and can have a little more bulk try a pelican case. This Pelican isn't the pen company, they make heavy duty cases for cameras and stuff. I used to use this one with the pick and pluck foam. The pick and pluck foam will let you pop out little slots to hold your pens. You could probably put some pens in this set up and then throw it off the highest building on campus without too much worry.

$24, a bargain.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBYPJYB

Hi all.

I'm currently in the market to try and upgrade my current gear for my Nikon D7100, and I would appreciate some feedback / suggestions / general thoughts on my choices.

Thanks in advance!

Current Gear & Amazon Links

Nikon 40mm f/2.8G AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-40mm-2-8G-Micro-NIKKOR/dp/B005C50H2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411239451&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+40mm

Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-35mm-1-8G-Digital-Cameras/dp/B001S2PPT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411239371&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+35mm

Nikon 85mm f/3.5G AF-S DX ED VR Micro Nikkor Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Micro-Nikkor-Digital-Cameras/dp/B002SQKVE4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1411239387&sr=8-4&keywords=nikon+85mm

Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR [Vibration Reduction] Nikkor Zoom Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-55-200mm-4-5-6G-Vibration-Reduction/dp/B000O161X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411239400&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+55-200mm

Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-18-55mm-3-5-5-6G-AF-S-Nikkor/dp/B000ZMCILW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411239408&sr=8-2&keywords=nikon+18-55mm

Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED AF-S DX Nikkor Wide-Angle Zoom Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-10-24mm-3-5-4-5G-Wide-Angle-Digital/dp/B0026FCKC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411239420&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+10-24mm

Possible Lens:

Nikon 10.5mm f/2.8G ED AF DX Fisheye Nikkor Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000144I30/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=IVNS308RGQQCV

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKUPRF4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=I31O79P9M4Q1LY

Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor Wide Angle Zoom Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDCT3C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=I2N8O785AXS9I0

Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S DX Nikkor Zoom Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000144I2Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=I1EPOEZPN5J3EG

Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EOSHGQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=IANEM6J7PPWIZ

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005LEN4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=I1B0R1WZS8SHQD

Nikon 24-85mm f/2.8-4.0D IF AF Zoom Nikkor Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005LE74/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=I2WCPU28S06PES

Nikon 85mm f/1.8G AF-S NIKKOR Lens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TAP096/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TM9469NHCNQ0&coliid=IQH4TBDDGW9QQ

Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S NIKKOR FX Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-NIKKOR-Digital-Cameras/dp/B004Y1AYAC/ref=hsx_crw_8490290011_tl_1?pf_rd_p=1725118622&pf_rd_s=center-5&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=8490290011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0R6RD5CPZ4S5DR84N9G1

Nikon 60mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Micro-Nikkor Lens
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-60mm-2-8G-Micro-Nikkor-Cameras/dp/B0013A1XDY/ref=zg_bs_173565_80

What I'm thinking:

From the potential lens that I could get, I definitely want to invest in the 18-300mm lens.

With that lens added to my current gear, I could then get rid of the 18-55mm and the 55-200mm lens from my gear. Changing my total lens count from six to five.

I want to keep the 10-24mm lens. I don't see the purpose of having the 10.5mm lens, so I must just cut that out.

The lens from the potential list (24-70mm f2.8, 17-55mm f2.8, 24-85mm f2.8) I could remove from my list because if I understand this correctly, this seems more of a choice for people who want that extra step in the f stop.

I'm in a debate about which one of these to chose from to either replace or upgrade the 35mm I have in my bag, and the two I'm looking at are 50mm f1.8D and 50mm f1.8G. I'm just not sure if it is worth the upgrade in terms of a better overall picture or just to stick with the 35mm.

I am a little bit confused about the 85mm that I have and whether to upgrade it with the 60mm or the 105mm. If I understand that macro world of lens correctly, the 60mm would be the ideal choice, correct?

Lastly, I am in debate about keeping the 40mm with my given choices. I'm also not aware of what the 85mm f1.8 could offer, if it will replace a lens or just add another option to my gear bag.

In summation, here is the current gear:

: Nikon 40mm f/2.8G AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR Lens
: Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX Lens
: Nikon 85mm f/3.5G AF-S DX ED VR Micro Nikkor Lens
: Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR [Vibration Reduction] Nikkor Zoom Lens
: Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens
: Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED AF-S DX Nikkor Wide-Angle Zoom Lens

What I will most likely keep if I go through my possible changes:

• Nikon 40mm f/2.8G AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR Lens
  

• Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX Lens
  

• Nikon 85mm f/3.5G AF-S DX ED VR Micro Nikkor Lens
  
• Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR [Vibration Reduction] Nikkor Zoom Lens
  
• Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens
  

• Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED AF-S DX Nikkor Wide-Angle Zoom Lens
  
  My new gear set:
  
  : Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX Lens
  : Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED AF-S DX Nikkor Wide-Angle Zoom Lens
  : Nikon 60mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Micro-Nikkor Lens
  : Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR Lens
  : Maybe one of the 50mm or the 85mm f1.8
  
  Any thoughts would be appreciated on this.
  
  
  Thanks again in advance!