Best dog training clickers according to redditors

Honest answer? Clicker training.

Here are the steps:

1. Find a treat your cat loves more than anything else, and something small enough that your cat can eat it in a second. My cats love cooked ground beef, but cheese, salmon, lunch meat and certain treats are all good choices.
   
2. Get a training clicker like this (or learn to make the noise)
   
3. For a week or two, click then give your cat a treat over and over again. You're teaching your cat to bridge the noise with a treat coming.
   
4. Then start clicking your cat when he does something you like. It's a message saying "I'm about to give you a treat for what you're currently doing".
   
5. Find ways to get your cat to do things. Waving a treat above their head to get them to stand, waving a toy on a target to hit it on cue, etc. As they start getting things in broad strokes, you can hone in on what you want them to do by choosing what you click.
   
   If you want more info, read Don't Shoot The Dog. It's the same idea. The biggest difference is that your cats attention span is probably much shorter than a dog's, so you got maybe 15-20 minutes when training them before they get bored. You just need to keep doing it every day.

I use a [Dog Training Clicker] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K7ZJJG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). My friends and I change up acknowledgement clicks, because other guys have started to pick up on our use of these, but it makes for great communication without such an exotic sound.

I have never in my life heard of a dog losing the ability to socialize with others so rapidly. I think there's something else going on, and I bet it's your depression.

Dogs are very sensitive to stress in their humans. I think your dog knows there's something wrong. She doesn't understand what it is, but it's got her afraid, and she's doing her best to keep you and herself safe. I have heard of cases of dogs becoming aggressively protective when their owners are going through stressful periods like break-ups, job loss, evictions, etc. Unfortunately, aggression has a way of snowballing, because when you anticipate that she's going to be aggressive, she picks up on your tenseness, and it makes her feel even more protective.

I think the most important thing you can do is try to get yourself back into a happy headspace. When you're relaxed and confident, your dog can relax and be confident. Try to take it easy and be a good role model for your dog. When you go walking with her, for example, try not to tense up when other people approach, because your dog may be misreading that as fear and see these people as a threat to you.

In the meantime, buy yourself a clicker or two, come up with some inexpensive treats that are small and healthy and super delicious to your dog, and get ready to familiarize yourself with clicker training. Clicker training is a great way to work on your dog's confidence. With this method, you can gradually introduce an animal to the thing it fears and show them it's not so scary after all.

If I were you, I would start by teaching her the most important skill of all: To always have her attention on you whenever you're training her. Watch this. And when you're done, watch these.

After that, I would train her to stay focused on you whenever you're walking her on a leash. I'd start by practicing inside the home without any distractions. Then, when she's got it 100%, gradually add distractions (like the sound of the TV turned up or her favorite toys scattered around). And when she can do it indoors perfectly, try practicing outdoors when there aren't people/animals around. Then practice when there are people/animals in the distance. And then when they're a little closer.

I would also teach her some sort of command that means, basically, "Stop whatever you're doing. We're leaving now." Watch this.

Then I'd gradually work on walking her closer and closer to people/animals and rewarding her for being calm, paying more attention to me than to them, and obeying my "let's go" command.

Be patient and don't set her up for failure. If she's having trouble getting it right, take a step back and practice what she can already do reliably. Then try again. Dogs gets frustrated when they make too many mistakes, so do your best to save her from making them.

Keep your training sessions short, and always end on a good note (i.e., with her getting it right and still interested in further training). Training should never go on so long that either you or she are getting tired of it; you want to keep it as something she looks forward to.

Food:

• Orijen. We rotate around between foods, but always come back to this one. Great coats, no dental problems, consistent energy levels, good digestion, all around good.
  
• Durapet steel non-skid dishes. Nice solid steel construction, and the rubber ring stays put even with frequent washing.
  
• Fish oil! Right now we use Kirkland brand capsules from Costco, which the dogs gobble up like candy.
  
  Leashes/collars/harnesses:
  
  
• "WMC" leather leashes. 3/4" 4ft long, perfect weight and length for everyday training walks. I have no idea what this brand is but it's the best leash I've ever owned. Stamped with "WMC" which I assume is an identifying mark of some sort.
  
• brass id plates from gun dog supply. They last forever and work great.
  
• Not a commercial product, but, a ponytail tie around tags to silence them.
  
• Perfect Fit fleece lined harness for dogs with thin fur. The most comfortable option I've found.
  
• Sense-ible harness. A simple, classic front-clip harness. No frills, does the job without unnecessary cost or weird features.
  
  Grooming:
  
  
• Miller's Forge nail clippers. Simple, cheap, sharp, better than the expensive alternatives.
  
• Earthbath grooming wipes have been a godsend for my allergy dog. Wiping him down every day drastically reduces his seasonal allergy symptoms.
  
• Epi-Soothe shampoo for itchy skin.
  
• Rubber brush for short coats. No particular brand--brands have evolved over the years. Zoom Groom is popular now, but anything made of flexible grippy rubber with fingers/nubs will work.
  
• Burt's Bees shampoo has been a pleasant surprise. No strong perfume, and leaves coats soft without drying them out.
  
• CET toothpaste. The poultry flavor is a big hit--way better than some other brands.
  
  Beds:
  
  
• Kuranda beds. No stuffing to trap allergens, tall enough to let the roomba underneath, and sturdy as all hell. Throw a washable blanket on top for snuggling and it's the perfect dog bed. Seriously, if you take nothing else away from this, just remember Kuranda.
  
• ruff wear roll up mats. Mine are way older and don't look like the product pictured there, but hopefully the new ones are similar. Waterproof no-slip rubber backing, fleece top that lasts through serious abuse (read: digging), and a thin padded layer that doesn't bunch. Perfect for camping, mat training, training classes, any and all travel.
  
• Berkley & Jensen brand dog beds/throws. The ones I got were like thick blankets, canvas on one side and fleece on the other side with a thin layer of padding in the middle. They're amazing. Folded in half it's a crate mat. Folded twice it's a dog bed. Spread out it's a floor protector while feeding gross bones. Spread out it's also a car seat protector.
  
  
  Toys
  
  
• Orvis leather toys. They appear not to be sold currently, but I have a leather retrieving dummy that was perfect for intro retrieve training with a dog who was utterly disinterested in toys. The soft leather enticed him to pick it up, which was all the help I needed at the time.
  
• JW treat ball. Large opening, so perfect for chunks of biscuit or jerky. Large pieces of treats can be squeezed through the flexible opening for a challenging game. Soft rubber bounces quietly, does not clang around on hard floors or against hard furniture like buster cube or kong wobbler.
  
• Classic Kongs. I take this one for granted, but really useful toy. Stuff it with food before you leave for work and your dog has something productive to focus on for a little while at least.
  
• Goughnuts. Virtually indestructible rubber chew toys.
  
  Training goodies
  
  
• Starmark clicker. Loud click. raised button gives you more options than a typical box clicker.
  
• iClick clicker. Very quiet click. Also with a raised button for versatility.
  
• Terry Ryan treat bag. Again, mine is really old so I hope the new one is similarly good. The hinges pop open/shut with no trouble, way more convenient than a drawstring. Mine has been used and washed regularly for 6+ years without harming it.
  

Did you get a box clicker? If so you might want to try a button clicker, as they tend to be quieter. Otherwise you can muffle it by pulling your sleeve over your hand, putting your hand in your pocket, or holding it behind your back.

I've had good results with a dog clicker. https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Yellow-Training-Clicker-Wristband/dp/B007M0HT1Y/ref=asc_df_B007M0HT1Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076665015&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18431237667828691673&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006507&hvtargid=pla-353158297336&psc=1

One click for pause or check in, multiple clicks for stop. Its been pretty easy to train as second nature for communication. Occasionally when my sub goes non verbal and pretty deep into space I'll ask for a click to check in. If that click doesn't happen it's time to stop.

Most also come with a little band to loop around your wrist so there is less risk of dropping it.

Buy another one. This is the only one I ever use, because it's so convenient still being able to use that hand.

Here's the dog training answer: get a dog training clicker and some really good dog treats, like small bits of real meat. Go outside, get the dog's attention, and wait for the dog to stop barking, even for a fraction of a second. Click the clicker and throw the treat over the fence. While the dog is eating the treat, they probably won't be barking, so click again and throw another treat. Basically the idea is to teach the dog that they get food when they're being quiet, so click and treat every time there's a moment of silence. Once the dog's figured it out, start waiting for a full second of silence before you click and treat. Then two seconds, etc. Do this for ten minutes a couple of times a day, and in a few days you'll be living next to a much quieter dog.

(For the curious, you use a clicker because it tells the dog exactly what they're being rewarded for. Most dogs can do a dozen different things in the time it takes to say "good dog" and get a treat out of your pocket, but if you can click at the exact moment they do something right, they learn what you want them to do much faster.)

I got a package of 5 clickers on Amazon for just under $10 - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LAS2LG/ref=twister_B002LAS7DO

They work great and having a bunch means I usually can find one when I need it.

I used these things. Click it in the mic when you botch a line, and it leaves two big peaks on the waveform that are very easily identified. Makes it easy to track down your edits.

I just say the word “Click.” It’s almost as fast, I don’t have to remember where I left the damn clicker, and Vader isn’t petrified of it the way he was the real clicker.

I also had some luck with the clik-r brand because it’s a quieter click.

I've looked up some of the resources for you that I have found helpful in the past and can give you a better idea of how to clicker train your cat. It takes a lot of patience and needing to pair the behavior you're desiring with the sound of the click and then the treat. This helps kitty know that the reward is contingent on the behavior.

https://www.adventurecats.org/backcountry-basics/how-to-clicker-train-a-cat/
http://www.thejacksongalaxyproject.org/2018-Cat-Pawsitive-Clicker-Training-Basics-Handout-FINAL.pdf
https://www.clickertraining.com/cat-training


Some examples of clickers you can purchase off of Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Karen-Pryor-Clicker-Training-Terry/dp/B00CDRJ3FG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Button-Pet-Training-Clickers-click/dp/B003BK9XPY/ref=pd_sim_199_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003BK9XPY&pd_rd_r=6ace0485-9212-4434-ae64-506ffd2a37ab&pd_rd_w=LiNJD&pd_rd_wg=Syl0D&pf_rd_p=5c130

Reward him for even the slightest interest or movement towards the treat in your hand. If you're still seeing that he's hesitant then you can try a couple of different things to lure him:

• A Click Stick with pb or soft treats smushed on the end
  
  
• A wooden spoon with a glob of pb on the end
  
  
• A lean lix style treat
  
  
• a small jar (baby food jars are perfect) with frozen wet food in it

lol I recently bought clickers on Amazon for this express purpose. Haven't tested them out yet, but will be excited to do so soon!

https://www.amazon.com/EcoCity-Upgrade-Version-Training-Clicker/dp/B071NTVXN2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1542761417&sr=1-4&keywords=DOG+CLICKER

1. I'm somewhere in between. I bought like 10 clickers and have them everywhere, but I also use "yep!" as a marker word. I probably reinforce the marker word at lower than 100% though, so I know the clicker is really better. If you think startle reflex/ noise aversion might be an issue, we use these which are quieter and pretty cheap.
   
   
2. My dog did this a lot. Is she generally a nervous girl? For Smokey, doing stuff like sitting down on the floor, relaxing my shoulders, using a quiet, gentle voice, and yawning or licking my lips helped. Having me standing up, looking stiff/focused, and using a commanding voice was intimidating to him. As people said she may also just be settling in to a new place. If she's not yet eating a good amount of her normal dog food, this is probably the case.
   
   
3. Once you get any issues sorted out, the clicker/treat association should happen within minutes. Until then, you can use your marker word and treat when she reorients to you in the presence of prey.
   
   PS: she is gorgeous!! Congrats on your new furbaby.

I use this one, which is significantly quieter than the traditional box clicker like this one that you can find in any pet store. Now that my dog is older and isn't as fearful I find that I can use them interchangeably. I actually prefer the box clicker in certain environments (like outdoors or for more remote stuff) since the button clicker can sometimes be too soft.

If you have a dog that is scared or startled by the clicker, another good way to muffle it is wrapping it up in a sock. We had to start clicker training off like that at first to get her used to the sound being a good thing.

Some of these are probably things you've already thought about, but here is my list.

Please visit /r/puppy101 !

• Kennel appropriate for his size, should be able to lay down and turn around in it. Too big and the puppy will be more prone to accidents in their kennel. (Midwest Homes makes great crates for all sizes, most come with a divider).
  
• Bedding for kennel and soft blanket. (Example)
  
• Baby blankets, just a personal thing for me - I set up a blanket and put her toys on it, it's her "play area". (Example)
  
• Stuffed toys, squeaky toys, tuggy toys, chew toys (puppy appropriate), snuggle toys - TOYS, TOYS, TOYS. Pets Smart has a buy 2 get 1 free sale, or least they did a week ago. Kong is one of the brands on sale, I highly recommend them.
  
• Teething toys for when he eventually starts teething. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000084E6V/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 ,
  
• A Kong toy, look up how to use one and which one to buy - my puppy loves it. (http://www.kongcompany.com/)
  
• Toy bin.
  
• Treats that can be cut up into small pieces for training. I use deli Turkey and Chicken, as well as Apples & peanut butter. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0ZJHW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HBBQKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002H3R2E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1)
  
• A clicker, if you've decided to do clicker training. (Example)
  
• Harness.
  
• Collar and tags.
  
• Water bowl, food bowl, and mat.
  
• Food storage container, and a scoop.
  
• Treat bag. (Example)
  
• Dental care kit. (Example)
  
• Brush, or Furminator if they're going to be long-haired. (Example, Example)
  
• Shampoo and/or conditioner (Example)
  
• Leash for leash training, and a long leash for other training.
  
• Towels. Large one for drying him or his feet, and small ones for cleaning up messes.
  
• Nature's Miracle, for mess clean up. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPSXN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Poop bags or pooper scooper, as well as a poop bag dispenser or trash can for poop. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017SZNOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M4QLXAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Doggy "diaper bag". I bought a tote online so I can bring stuff with me for travel (to dog park, vet, friends house, etc.) (Example)
  
• Baby gates. So many baby gates - I have two with cat doors and a large door for humans to easily walk through. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00229V2KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
  
• Look into CareCredit or Pet Insurance.
  
• Look up Vets in your area and the costs of all their vaccines/boosters/exams/spray or neuter/rabies shots/etc.
  
• Look up your states laws on dog registration (usually occurs right after they get their rabies shot).
  
  Edit: Forgot Nail Clipps and/or a dremel.

I use the cheap-o box style clickers but I have seen the volume control ones around in some pet supply shops. Here is one from amazon.

You can also use your tongue to make a consistent clicking sound (or use a word). Dogs who are over excited by a clicker often will respond better to you just making a consistent 'mark'.

You can also use things like ball point pens to make a click sound (but they are not loud enough for busy/outdoor environments) a small flash light ( to condition the flash of light, but only works if your dog is looking at you) or a vibrating collar (primarily used for deaf dogs, but could be used on a hearing dog, too, if properly conditioned).

Amazon :)

I opted for the 7 pack since she likes to destroy things :D

I've been looking into training cats, I just bought a book and a Click Stick. I would love to train other animals, I just don't have the time right now because of school and such.

What other animals did you have in mind?

I'm sorry to hear about your experience.

I for one have a hard time snapping my fingers consistently. Jangling keys or a dog clicker make an excellent tool for safe-wording when gagged.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018ZZVCYO/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1483967836&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nipple+clicker+bitch

Something like this

You got me interested.

After the Minkery book this early year, i'am interested for something else that i could study. Clicker training could be a great addition to my book collection.

Found also a clicker with 4 different tone https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B004WO8SUE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1X6FK5RDHNB96&psc=1

So, does someone have a good book on the subject ?

Thanks

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LAS2KW/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_13?colid=QEE8QSNEZ02K&coliid=ISXMEE0DHXSQO&vs=1

I use Karen Pryor clickers because they're inexpensive and small. I tend to give them away.

If you're ordering from Amazon, I like these clickers. They're not better than any other really, but for just a couple more dollars you get a 3 pack. And you'll want spares, clickers have a tendency to just run away.

Any noise can be used as the "click," but something handheld will usually be more precise than anything verbal. Some other things you can use are saying, "yes!", the click of a pen, snap your fingers (only try this one if you've never snapped your fingers in an angry way to get his attention or something), a bottle cap (like a Snapple cap), and there might even be some sort of smartphone app you can download.

Are you using a box clicker? These can be pretty loud and jarring. You can try wrapping a towel over your clicker hand, or clicking in your pocket. They make some quieter clickers, like this one, but it's hard to say if it will still scare him.

Give the meds some time to get into his system, and don't be afraid to talk to your vet if you see no change. Just like with people, sometimes the first med doesn't work right.

That's interesting about the Kong. It sounds like he's lacking a ton of confidence. The clicker training should eventually help him become a bit more confident, and/or some day he might just "get it" and decide to try harder with the Kong. If it's really stressing him out, there are other puzzle toys you can try, or you can feed him exclusively through training sessions.

Hope that helps!

I have discovered that I am getting really good at (and enjoy) dog training! I have trained both my own husky and mine and my roommate's foster German Shepherd. I would like to take some classes and turn this into a hobby or job. A few clickers would be a great way to start out! I have some friends who have recently adopted dogs, and I could try the clicker out on my dogs and their dogs!

Thanks for the contest! I want to try something new.

http://www.amazon.com/Button-Pet-Training-Clickers-click/dp/B003BK9XPY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2Z8QXC2F6RJMY&coliid=IZZNY0IAP1FV

This one

The one I had before is this one which had a better front pouch I could put the ball in, but it wore out in only a few months, while the first one I linked is still going strong around a year later.

Get a training clicker. Started when my cat was young, now it doesn't like treats but will still come when I use the clicker.

Not at all! We bought these! Dog Training Clicker with Wrist Strap - Pet Training Clicker, Big Button Clicker Set, 2-Pack(Blue + White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756JFQ3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qe.TAbHQBFJX4

Maybe this. I've never tried it and there are no reviews, so I can't say how well it works or what the tones are.


I do seem to recall that there were a few clickers out that made alternative sounds, but for the life of me I can't remember where I saw them ... and it was a while ago so they may not be available any more.

You could use something like a dog clicker driven by a servo or something.

http://www.amazon.com/Karen-i-Click-Training-Clicker-Clickers/dp/B002LAS2KW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404790777&sr=8-2&keywords=Dog+Clicker

http://www.amazon.com/Petco-PETCO-Dog-Training-Clicker/dp/B0006344B2/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1404790777&sr=8-15&keywords=Dog+Clicker

It doesn't matter, my animal trainer wife (super legit, she does research with it) just clicks her tongue when she doesn't have a clicker. Just takes them a sec to realize

there's a few kinds of clickers out there and the only difference between them is how the trainer wants to use them, like this one with a target, which we've totally used to get our bengal to jump through hoops

don't ever let lack of perfect equipment or "training treats" stop you!

I just bought four clickers so I'd always have one easily available and all the clickers would have consistent sound

I have a Clicker for pet training that I want to use to teach my ferrets tricks

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A9FR26/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ZP9XCT9MJVSQ&coliid=I1ZITVXVA6YTQW&psc=1

You're almost done with heartworm treatment, yay!

I second the recommendation for a treat pouch. Yes it's dorky, but I'm so over caring about how I look. I'm more concerned with preventing my dog from acting like an asshole. I've seen guys in reactive dog class use nail pouches or work aprons from Home Depot, if that's more your style.

I use clickers with wrist straps to keeps my hands free. I keep the leash and clicker in one hand, and use my other hand for treats.

Oh sure clicker training is a method I saw from kikopup (again all her YouTube stuff is great).

It's literally a small thing that makes a click (this is the one I used, love the finger strap) there are tons out there. Basically it's another marker for the pup that they did something right. I also give a "good!" In a specific voice as another marker it's what you asked for. The idea is eventually you can remove the treat and then the clicker and the "good!" Is all you need for the pup to know they did it right!

Brown rice doesn't have that much nutritional value. A clicker is training device that makes a distinctive clicking sound. The concept is when you click, you give a reward. My pigeon's regular meals are pellets and vegetables; seed as treats. When he does something good/a behavior I want, I click-give seed then my pigeon is able to learn the behavior.