Best engine & oil fluid additives according to redditors

Always get the scheduled maintenance done that is recommended in the owner’s booklet. Typically, I’ll get my oil change done at the same time because it’s usually every 8,000km/5000 miles. Make sure the mechanic uses 100% synthetic, and not some 50/50 cheap alternative.

For that salt buildup, Krown protectant is worth it. Get that applied at least every second year. In Canada it’s about $130, so in the US it’s probably $75-90. If you’re doing Krown and planning to regularly get a car wash, DO NOT go for the carwash that sprays the underside of the car. This can rinse off the Krown protectant over time.

Since you’re at the 62K mile mark, you can start using Lukas oil stabilizer and Lukas injector cleaner . You wouldn’t need it if you’re under 50k miles, but once the engine gets older it starts to burn oil less efficiently;it’s normal. My mechanic swears by this stuff- and no he doesn’t sell it, he tells me to grab it at the local hardware/automotive supply store, so I know he’s honest.

I've had success UV dye:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/

Here's some cheap blacklights:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Detection-Glasses-438/dp/B003JOB594/

https://smile.amazon.com/POCKETMAN-UV-Ultraviolet-Blacklights-Flashlight-Detecting/dp/B01FS64GNC/

That being said, ih8mud is a much better place for these questions. It's much more active.

There is [Fix a Flat for engine leaks](
http://www.amazon.com/Fix-A-Flat-Leak-Engine-Sealer-Stop/dp/B002FYWCJQ)

If he used that no problem. Won't help either.

If he put fix a flat for tires in the engine....well
If the car is in bad shape and burning a quart of oil every 500 miles.....then it probably doesn't matter.

I'd the car is on good shape then you should get your oil changed...preferably in situ without starting the engine.

Dump some Mystery Oil in there. That stuff is magic. 4oz in the gas to clean and lube the fuel system and substitute it for up to a quarter of of the oil capacity when you do an oil change. Drive it for 1k miles or so and do another oil change to drain all the shit it will clean up out. It might solve the idle issue if you think it's because of the dirty injectors.

http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-Motor-Tune-GALLON/dp/B001DKQOME/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1381438939&sr=1-1&keywords=sea+foam

Get some of this. Run it for 20 minutes then do an oil change. If it has been sitting for 1.5 years some old oil has probably clogged some of the lifters and they are not pumping up. If it fixes it, great, if not you are only out a few bucks and it is a lot cheaper than the other options.

That’s not a Long video, but it does sound like it’s a pretty excessive knock. I’m sure that by now you’ve pulled over and checked your oil. If you need to add oil, I would put in an oil additive such as Lucas or somesuch real thick additive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS1XYO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_QGr0AbAS9K0A9

If it is a leak and not just burning oil, I've used this with great success. Add to your engine oil, run car for a day or so, in a dark garage or outside in the dark, shine an infrared light in the engine, the leak will stand out very clearly with a bright yellow stain. Ultraviolet bulbs are less than $5 at home depot and probably Amazon. This additive can be ordered from any auto supply shop.




http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-374CS-Engine-Transmission-Dye/dp/B002M4G24U/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NAV606F0JZ0XYXARBPG

Depends. But this would be the easiest thing to do.

Some people hate it, some use it (I haven't) - there us a thing called engine flush to clean the oil system. You pour it in the old oil, led it run for a few minutes and change the oil then. Can get rid of sludge, some people vlsim it can damage the engines seals. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO

You then take good Bmw ll98 or ll01 oil and see how it runs.

Something like this:

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-super/mobil-super-synthetic-euro#5W-40

Nah you should be more than good. Might have em take a peek at the spark plugs but other than that it should be all good. 99% sure you don't have any sludge unless the previous owner truly neglected it.

If it'll make you feel better toss this in immediately prior to oil change. Might not have much of an effect but Liqui Moly makes some good stuff between that, hydraulic lifter additive, and anti-friction additive.

Other than that rav4s are stupid reliable. I have an 03 with 205k on the clock and it still runs like a top.

You spent 6 bucks on 1 ounce of mystery oil!!?? Where the hell did you buy it?? Amazon has it for $5.99 a pint CD 2 MM12R 16 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_APG4DbZWZ76EZ

All nitro will blow oil out the exhaust but it shouldn’t be excessive, you could probably afford to turn your lean screw in a half turn. If you switch to byrons or if you switch to any fuel (VP fuels are also pretty decent) set you lean screw back to stock and tune from there. Humidity and ambient temperatures also affect air/fuel ratios. High humidity will run a little richer, low humidity leaner. Cold ambient temp will want to run leaner also.

Been through this before...neglected it until I put about $100 of fluid in it, $20 part, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Honda-Civic-Power-Steering-Hose-Lower-Return-Line-OEM-53721SNAA00/, I'd advise dying the line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M4G24U/ and looking with a uv light to make sure. I paid a dealer $100 ish to install it, probably could have done it myself in an hour but they degreased the bottom of the car, flushed the system and checked for leaks again, whatever works for you. Not 100% sure that this is what is going on with you but what happened for me is that over time the pipe gets eaten away by road salt and debris and you basically just gush power steering fluid. Best of luck.

Last update because you guys helped me solve the problem and it was relatively easy. Apparently I have a high-compression DR. I poured 1.5 ounces of this octane booster in the tank and boom! Runs smooth and pulls hard through all the gears now. Why was this so hard? I thought this stuff was snake oil. Especially for my old school stock engine. Guess I'm running 93 from now one. THANK YOU!!

Damnit, I just went to their website to confirm and got confused which it was now - it’s been 2 years. It was definitely an engine flush product, but looking at their Australian website, none of the containers there look quite the same as the one I had - they’re all silver, the one I used was black.

EDIT: I gave up with their website, but I think I found it on amazon. 90% sure it was this one
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO

That’s were you fucked up, ever since I used diesel oil my car has a strange tick that I can’t rid of from valve adjustment and a slight shake at idle, but still she goes.


For me Mobil one synthetic 15w-50 from Walmart and Liquid Molly antifriction helped bring my motor back to a serviceable daily life, never again will I buy diesel oil

Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment - 300 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U4O414/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nBMUDb104ZTVT

Here is the mobile version of your link

If I were to use an oil additive I would use something containing high levels of molybdenum, which is marketed as an anti-wear additive, and has one of the strongest followings at the moment.

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Keep in mind that a lot of the positive/negative effects can be attributed to placebo.

A lot of additives on the market are 100% useless, it's not the best idea to buy one at random. A bit like make up/supplement/etc. advertising. Are there products out there with evidence to back up the idea that they may make some small positive contribution? Yes. But overpriced junk is the overwhelming majority, and a lot of uninformed people with very large mouths love to spout anecdotal experiences/beliefs as proof/fact.

Is there something that you're particularly concerned about with your car?

We use a product from BG at my dealership to help prolong engine life on 1zz, 1nz (fe/fxe), and the 2az’s. This stuff works wonders! You’ll need to do two oil changes though, on the first you’ll add the red can and the remainder oil and start it and get to normal operation temp (do not rev or drive, let idle) then drain fully and add the blue can with remainder oil. If possible, go for a 30-50 mile straight drive.

If you use Delo 400 oil (which I recommend) there's some in that already. There's a German company called Lubromoly that's well thought of. They make a product called Liquimoly that is very well thought of. It's basically about 300ml of the stuff. Add it to the oil when the engine is still hot shortly after an oil change and drive it around. After a certain amount of miles it'll bake into all the scratches and such on the sliding surfaces.

UV Leak Dye

Try this with a UV light and glasses. They're available at most auto parts stores like autozone and advance. Add it into your coolant. It will show you exactly where the leak is coming from.

What's the local equivalent to this (Marvel Mystery Oil)?

You're on the way! Did this leak start with the oil change, has it been happening a while, or did you just notice(and not sure when it started)?

Next step is to track down where it's leaking from. If you can see wetness, follow it uphill along whatever surface it's coming down.

If you can't track it visually, you can try spreading a paper towel flat around where the drop fell from, and look for a track of oil on the paper towel. Repeat following the track. If the engine is oily though, you may just get an oily rag...

If necessary, you can use some of this with one of these, but hopefully won't need them.

my combo is 3 redline heavy shock proofs
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-58204-Heavy-ShockProof/dp/B000CPI5XW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549391484&sr=8-1&keywords=redline+shockproof
and the remaining .7 to fill with Redline 75w90NS
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-58304-Limited-Synthetic/dp/B000CPI5Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549391544&sr=8-3&keywords=redline+ns

I don't have any engine codes now. I've seen various ones while I've been troubleshooting the engine when things have been disconnected, etc, but none that come up normally. Is this stuff the oil additive you're talking about?

Marvel Mystery Oil

I always took two stones and a little Marvel Mystery oil and rubbed the stones together. Works like a charm. But honestly, that's not a lot of build up and won't affect your honing too much. When there are shiny spots where the edge meets the stone, that's when it needs to be cleaned, that's when there is a build up of metal material above the grit of the stone.

I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.

http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7

Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!

Marvel MM13R Mystery Oil - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4t3Syb5PE9GT4