Best oil & fluid additives according to redditors
We found 152 Reddit comments discussing the best oil & fluid additives. We ranked the 64 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 152 Reddit comments discussing the best oil & fluid additives. We ranked the 64 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Sort of. But you can also buy fuel stabilizer commonly used in the marine industry since when you haul your boat out for winter most people don't empty their tanks.
https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I For the curious.
Fascinating. I'm wondering if Subaru recommends and approves only one type of "stop leak", something they call a coolant conditioner, such as this, https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE
I'm guessing it's this stuff.
And no, it's not going to improve your gas mileage. It might help clean carbon deposits out of your fuel system and help your car run slightly more efficiently, but any MPG gains will be negligible. You're not going to go from 18 MPG to 25 MPG just by putting some of this in your tank.
> never owned a diesel before
Once you experience the torque of a diesel, it's hard to go back to a gasser. My first diesel was an LB7. I bought it with 200,000 miles and sold it when it dropped an injector at 300,000 miles. Loved the truck and power. Injectors and head gasket are what to watch for on the LB7. Use a good fuel treatment and watch your coolant reservoir for a dark ring indicating head gasket issue. If you're really committed to the truck, add a Fass Fuel System.
Use this and drive the car hard on the way to inspection.
I can't say for sure if it will work for you, But this stuff will make a car with a dead cat pass in my state.
Fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I
I've saved gasoline 2-3 years without STABIL, I'd be hard pressed to tell you whether or not this stuff is really required. But it is not real expensive so to me it is worth it.
What you really have to do to save gas is have a set of cans and rotate through them so you always use the oldest gas first.
I always buy the cheapest gas available, but use Lucas Fuel Additive. It boosts my mileage a couple of miles per gallon and keeps the injectors clean & the upper cylinder lubricated.
If you don't have record of the last time the coolant was changed, change it. To play it safe I'd use Subaru Super Coolant (blue) with Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (Holts Radweld).
In the event you need to do the head gasket, Speed Academy has an amazing video I used to do mine.
Call me crazy, but when I blew my engine I elected to keep the car. Subaru has engineered a family sedan way better than it has to be for the market and it shows.
I need to do some digging to find the invoices of parts I purchased; I'll update this reply as I find them.
Dump some Mystery Oil in there. That stuff is magic. 4oz in the gas to clean and lube the fuel system and substitute it for up to a quarter of of the oil capacity when you do an oil change. Drive it for 1k miles or so and do another oil change to drain all the shit it will clean up out. It might solve the idle issue if you think it's because of the dirty injectors.
its the clutch packs in the axle from the quadra drive system. you either need to add friction modifier https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AC-Limited-Additive/dp/B000TTEX8W. I had to do a full fluid change I used royal purple 75W140 with limited slip addative, as well as a little extra mopar addative. sound went away
200K miles on a gearbox with original transmission fluid is absolutely incredible.
Im sure it was changed once or twice. But that said, it couldnt hurt to spend $80 in fluid and a filter and try and replace it.
Its almost as easy as doing an oil change on the car.
Edit:
Fluid
Filter
Winter
Rest of the year
Oil
Filter
For gas, you can use a stabilizer to store it for a few years. I use something like this to store gas although I tend to use it within a year: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B68V6I
I've had success UV dye:
https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/
Here's some cheap blacklights:
https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Detection-Glasses-438/dp/B003JOB594/
https://smile.amazon.com/POCKETMAN-UV-Ultraviolet-Blacklights-Flashlight-Detecting/dp/B01FS64GNC/
That being said, ih8mud is a much better place for these questions. It's much more active.
If the biggest concern is a steering fluid leak from the rack, and replacement time is 7 hours you may want to try adding a bottle of Lucas Power Steering treatment to it. This is a goopy additive like STP for engines; it does not fix anything but it can dramatically slow down a rack leak if you a re just trying to buy a couple months. I once had a Geo beater car that used a quart a week; this stuff slowed it down to a quart every 2 months.
http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10008-Power-Steering-Stop/dp/B000ARPVNO
I would advise you to not have these repairs done if you are going to only have the car for a few months; you will not get anywhere near the cost of repairs back in increased sale price when you trade it in. Perhaps trading it in now would be a much better idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Service-03080-06-Cetane-Additive/dp/B001JT1FJ6/
Would work. And I am sure we can find plenty of Diesel mechanics that would tell me it is a waste. But what I have heard from the VW engineers is the Diesel we have here in the US does not have enough lubrication compared to Euro diesel. And the lower lubrication that our Diesel here has is what is causing many failures of the fuel system on those vehicles.
And $25 for 250 gallons of Diesel... Again, pretty cheap insurance.
I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.
Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.
-Catalytic converters will start throwing codes eventually. Had my sensors spaced out (put a spacer between the sensor and spot they screw in on in the catalytic converter) so it wouldn't throw the codes anymore. I think the OEM converters are roughly 900 each.
-Here is a discussion on the timing chain for the 4.2L V8 S5. It does not seem to be the same issue as the earlier 4.2L V8's in the S4 and RS4's.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/778497-Timing-Chain-service-at-100k-miles
-Carbon will be an issue, just no good rule of thumb on how long to wait before getting it delt with. If you start seeing miss fire codes probably time to get it checked. My local non-audi shop charged me 800 for the time to clean it with break cleaner and a brush. They charge 86 an hour. You'll also get charged for new gaskets to put the intake manifold back on. However I was getting miss fire codes after getting mine cleaned so I ran a bottle of this through my gas tank and never saw the issue again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDVU6EI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-I've not had an issue with mounts yet not sure if/when I will. My car is currently at 111k miles and I bought it at 66k miles and I'm at least the 3rd owner. If you decide to replace them you can get more solid motor mounts, here is one company that sells them but there are several others out there that should sell them as well.
https://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/index.php
-List of things I've had to get fixed that I can remember.
-headlights (If I recall it was about 250 for both new ones together)
-Carbon cleaning
-Stereo system went bad, had to go to dealership to fix it, 1400 for oem replacement, diagnosing and time to install ended up costing me 2k
-Replaced oil separator OEM roughly 350 hopefully cuts down on carbon build up. Considered an oil catch can just never pulled the trigger to do it. Gotta remember to empty those if you get one.
-Currently dealing with randomly leaking AC system. Shop put dye in the AC system when they refilled it twice now, still can't find where it's leaking out with the black light.
-Hood strut went bad, replaced it.
Basically all general maintenance stuff outside the audio system. If you have any other questions let me know.
It doesn't answer your question, but if I were you I'd order some fuel stabilizer online. Fill up the tank to the tip-top and put that in.
Fuel stabilizer will keep your gas "fresh" for up to 2 years, so you should make it through a few months just fine. Just make sure to top off your tank and re-add the appropriate amount of stabilizer after a ride.
Depends. But this would be the easiest thing to do.
Some people hate it, some use it (I haven't) - there us a thing called engine flush to clean the oil system. You pour it in the old oil, led it run for a few minutes and change the oil then. Can get rid of sludge, some people vlsim it can damage the engines seals. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO
You then take good Bmw ll98 or ll01 oil and see how it runs.
Something like this:
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-super/mobil-super-synthetic-euro#5W-40
You're getting ripped off at $2000, so $3,000 is astronomical.
My local subaru shop "not a dealer" does HG replacements starting at $900. There are often a few extra parts needed, so it can go up to $1,300, but that isn't often. They do great work and specialize in Subaru... I'm sure there is a similar shop in your area
With a new HG and some Subaru Coolant System Conditioner it should run 200,000 MORE miles.
Honestly, if you picked up a Subie with 78K for less than $3k, boy did you score... It's totally worth the REASONABLE HG replacement.
>I have a good knowledge of car maintenance but have never owned a 4wd before.
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I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2V8, NP249J transfer case, Dana30 front diff, and ?Dana44A rear diff? still not 100% sure about the rear diff model
1994 would have a d35
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If I use this Lucas gear oil 75w-140 Synth, which says excellent for limited slip use, do I still need to add this additive when I service the differentials?
That'll be fine, no need for an additive.
>
Also ATF+4 in the transfer case?
Dex/merc or atf+4. The tcase isn't picky.
>
How do I tell if my Viscous coupler is bad? Recommendations if it is?
I think the test is to turn in a tight circle and if you feel binding it's bad. Recommend a 231 or 242 swap.
Nah you should be more than good. Might have em take a peek at the spark plugs but other than that it should be all good. 99% sure you don't have any sludge unless the previous owner truly neglected it.
If it'll make you feel better toss this in immediately prior to oil change. Might not have much of an effect but Liqui Moly makes some good stuff between that, hydraulic lifter additive, and anti-friction additive.
Other than that rav4s are stupid reliable. I have an 03 with 205k on the clock and it still runs like a top.
You spent 6 bucks on 1 ounce of mystery oil!!?? Where the hell did you buy it?? Amazon has it for $5.99 a pint CD 2 MM12R 16 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_APG4DbZWZ76EZ
All nitro will blow oil out the exhaust but it shouldn’t be excessive, you could probably afford to turn your lean screw in a half turn. If you switch to byrons or if you switch to any fuel (VP fuels are also pretty decent) set you lean screw back to stock and tune from there. Humidity and ambient temperatures also affect air/fuel ratios. High humidity will run a little richer, low humidity leaner. Cold ambient temp will want to run leaner also.
Sta-Bil allows gas to be stored up to two years. I'd half that time just to be safe. To avoid it ever going bad, just cycle your stored gas through your car and replace it.
Why would you change the tank? Is it leaking? Do you suspect algae bloom?
If you’re unsure of the state of the oil and tank, you can shock it.
I use this series:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IUP9LC/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT3GXO/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT1FJ6/
Doesn't get any better than royal purple, nice choice. I would still recommend a friction modifier, but if you wheel and have to flush the diff out often maybe just skip it. If you don't, and just do normal service this stuff goes in my 67 Jeep front and rear LSD diffs, the rear of my 98 ZJ and my LJ (has air lockers but I add anyway, doesn't hurt)
It's real quality stuff and will prevent it from chattering, one bottle per axle
Nice! As preventative maintenance Subaru sells this stuff. It is rebranded Holt's Radweld. Small bottle. I threw some in my daughter's Subie just in case. Can't hurt I guess. If the headgaskets on the replacement motor were original units then it is probably just a matter of time before they go too. But, you never know. This magic Subie juice is supposed to help.
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https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GZ6ZTJOIDK4X&keywords=subaru+radiator+conditioner&qid=1554864612&s=gateway&sprefix=subaru+radiator+%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-3
You have a 5-speed automatic transmission. CVTs do not have gears, so if your shifter says P-R-N-D-3-2-1 or something with numbers below 'D' then you have a normal transmission: in which case it takes Honda DW-1 automatic transmission fluid. If for whatever odd reason you do have a CVT you should be able to tell by looking for the transmission dipstick/fill plug it will have a label right on it that says CVT (Then it would take Honda CVT-1 fluid). If no label, pull the dipstick and if the fluid is pink or red (or off-red brown [old dirty fluid]) then you can be sure it's regular ATF: use Honda DW-1 fluid. For every drain and refill you will use almost 3 quarts. If your fluid is dirtier/old then you may have to do this process over a couple times (almost 3 quarts each time).
If it is a leak and not just burning oil, I've used this with great success. Add to your engine oil, run car for a day or so, in a dark garage or outside in the dark, shine an infrared light in the engine, the leak will stand out very clearly with a bright yellow stain. Ultraviolet bulbs are less than $5 at home depot and probably Amazon. This additive can be ordered from any auto supply shop.
http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-374CS-Engine-Transmission-Dye/dp/B002M4G24U/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NAV606F0JZ0XYXARBPG
You're not wrong.
Definitely sounds like K-Seal will have a high chance of fixing it though. Shake first, then pour, then enjoy the time and money saved.
https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kseal&qid=1568304202&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Do you have an air pump?
Also, SeaFoam is great for what it is (a detergent, for cleaning junk out of the fuel system) but you might want to try something like this:
link
Sweet! Ordered this and comments say it should solve the problem.
Do you have a small leak anywhere, and was the water pump changed the last time the timing belt was done? As others have mentioned the thermostat is a good place to start. Also Subaru makes a coolant conditioner that should be used when not using genuine Subaru coolant. It's a small bottle that can easily be found on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE
I keep 30 gal of stabilised gas in refurbished jerry cans that I got on eBay years ago. They last for two years and then I cycle them through our cars and have never had any issue with "old" gas. I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, twice the recommended dose for each can, and it works great.
Some photos: https://imgur.com/rM7sepe
Marvel Mystery Oil
Is it legal to dump those bottles of "guaranteed to pass" additives into gas tanks before a smog test?
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8
I'm not saying there should be no standards. But the US automotive standards are extremely restrictive when compared to international standards. The US standards are even necessarily "better", just "different".
Here's a rundown on the situation:
http://jalopnik.com/a-simple-explanation-why-america-doesnt-get-european-h-1493377285
That seems like a better option than taking apart a dashboard or throwing down a grand for this.
Have you ever used any of those additives that seal leaks on their own? I'm hoping to just have a fix hold me over until after winter at the latest.
Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6
http://barsleaks.com/product/liquid-aluminum-cooling-system-stop-leak/
Probably wouldn't be a horrible idea to throw a bottle of fuel stabilizer in the tank as well. When you go to buy the battery just ask where the fuel stabilizer is. I personally use http://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I Edit- you dont need the 32oz like 4-8oz should be enough
If it's a guaranteed 3-4 months, no worries. However, when it's out of sight out mind, your timeline may stretch and it'll become 6-8 months, etc.
So your gas doesn't turn to varnish if it does end up sitting longer than you expected, add some Sta-Bil.
https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I
You can get this pretty much anywhere.
Been through this before...neglected it until I put about $100 of fluid in it, $20 part, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Honda-Civic-Power-Steering-Hose-Lower-Return-Line-OEM-53721SNAA00/, I'd advise dying the line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M4G24U/ and looking with a uv light to make sure. I paid a dealer $100 ish to install it, probably could have done it myself in an hour but they degreased the bottom of the car, flushed the system and checked for leaks again, whatever works for you. Not 100% sure that this is what is going on with you but what happened for me is that over time the pipe gets eaten away by road salt and debris and you basically just gush power steering fluid. Best of luck.
If I were to use an oil additive I would use something containing high levels of molybdenum, which is marketed as an anti-wear additive, and has one of the strongest followings at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Keep in mind that a lot of the positive/negative effects can be attributed to placebo.
A lot of additives on the market are 100% useless, it's not the best idea to buy one at random. A bit like make up/supplement/etc. advertising. Are there products out there with evidence to back up the idea that they may make some small positive contribution? Yes. But overpriced junk is the overwhelming majority, and a lot of uninformed people with very large mouths love to spout anecdotal experiences/beliefs as proof/fact.
Is there something that you're particularly concerned about with your car?
http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE
No, you won’t need new cats. I had the same problem with my ‘89 and my dad and I found this wonderful product that is literally called- Pass Emissions Test. You just pour the stuff into the tank when it’s half empty, use the rest of the tank, fill it back up, and then you should pass with flying colors!
Pass Emissions
I think you can order Trufuel. It's in 32oz. Cans and I just buy it at home depot though lowes carries it as well. I guess amazon sells it also! http://www.amazon.com/TruFuel-4-Cycle-Ethanol-Free-Outdoor-Equipment/dp/B009QT1KLO (pack of 6)it's ethanol-free 92 octane gasoline basically. It's a little more spendy than mixing your own gas, but I don't have to do anything to my mower during the winter or worry about lines getting gummed up. Last winter I ran the mower until there was no trufuel left. Started first pull this spring. I also use the 2-cycle trufuel in my weedeater. Maintenance wise you should be set for a bit with a new mower, I think it says in the manual to change the oil after first 20 hours use or so. Just change the oil per the schedule and if your in a super dusty place keep an eye on the filter.
One easy potential repair is adding a sealant to your radiator. It doesn’t work on all head gasket issues, but it does work on some (at least for awhile) and could extend the useful life by a bit.
This stuff sealed a radiator (non head-gasket) leak for me and there are reviews and videos of it fixing leaks in the head-gasket as well.
You're on the way! Did this leak start with the oil change, has it been happening a while, or did you just notice(and not sure when it started)?
Next step is to track down where it's leaking from. If you can see wetness, follow it uphill along whatever surface it's coming down.
If you can't track it visually, you can try spreading a paper towel flat around where the drop fell from, and look for a track of oil on the paper towel. Repeat following the track. If the engine is oily though, you may just get an oily rag...
If necessary, you can use some of this with one of these, but hopefully won't need them.
ez fix, buy one of these kits: http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1323365128&sr=8-9
flush system out and run water from hose threw motor while running for like 20 minutes good to go, ditched the dex cool out of my saab with a similar kit. cheap and sold everywhere
Here is the mobile version of your link
If you use Delo 400 oil (which I recommend) there's some in that already. There's a German company called Lubromoly that's well thought of. They make a product called Liquimoly that is very well thought of. It's basically about 300ml of the stuff. Add it to the oil when the engine is still hot shortly after an oil change and drive it around. After a certain amount of miles it'll bake into all the scratches and such on the sliding surfaces.
Gumout makes a DIY injection kit, but if they don't follow the instructions the bent pistons can happen. I could not find the Gumout kit but [here] is a similar 3M kit.(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PPL604/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00BAW3Y5A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0TBQHEDHE6XRW2HMMCAX)
Damnit, I just went to their website to confirm and got confused which it was now - it’s been 2 years. It was definitely an engine flush product, but looking at their Australian website, none of the containers there look quite the same as the one I had - they’re all silver, the one I used was black.
EDIT: I gave up with their website, but I think I found it on amazon. 90% sure it was this one
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO
Get a turkey baster from the dollar store. Remove as much fluid as you can from the p/s fluid reservoir. Dump in some Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak.
http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10008-Power-Steering-Stop/product-reviews/B000ARPVNO
It will probably stop or significantly slow your leak. If it doesn't work, you haven't lost much money.
EDIT: I just realized the picture shows the OIL CAP. I thought it was the Radiator cap when I glanced at first. Oh well... I'll leave the post anyways, perhaps it helps someone with cooling issues. OP: I never dealt with that problem. Definitely looks like cross contamination with coolant. But if that's not the case, try looking into a few oil changes (perhaps with low viscosity oil), along with snake oils such as Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil. I had very good luck with them in the past. Best of luck.
Hey man, I had a nearly identical issue with my truck and fixed it without too many problems. This is assuming your head gasket is good and you aren't cross contaminating oil and coolant.
Basically it boils down to (te-heee) use of certain old antifreeze products known to cause this as well as products like "stop-leak" and similar. Those products and inadequate cooling system maintenance can cause this problem.
You will need a flush kit, along with a few bottles of cleaner. You can get both at Walmart cheaper than Amazon. Get also 5-6 gallons of distilled water.
Install the flush kit on the heater core hoses as described in the instructions. If you have trouble determining which is the hose going into the heater core, turn on the car (ensure heat is off) and touch both heater core hoses as it warms up. The one that stays cold is the outlet.
Flush the system with the garden hose as described in the instructions. The first few times you do it you will see a ton of crap coming out. Flush for a few minutes, then turn off the hose and let the water drain for a bit. Close the drain plug and flush cap, empty one bottle of cleaner in the radiator, top it off with distilled water, close fill cap. Drive the car for a few days.
Repeat the above process 5-6 times every few days until the flush water coming out is completely clean and you no longer see baby-shit accumulating under the radiator cap.
Once you have done a couple of rounds and the coolant water is reliably clean (no traces whatsoever of that crap), do a few rounds of distilled water only (to remove all traces of cleaning agent). Then go ahead and fill it up with good quality antifreeze compatible with what's recommended for that vehicle.
Keep in mind that antifreeze is needed for multiple reasons, including lubrication. Just because it's summer and you don't run the risk of coolant freeze, keep in mind that during the above process you will be running the water pump without lubrication. Since it seems like it's your daily driver, you should be able to do the whole process in the span of a couple of weeks without issue.
Good luck and report back with your findings.
would something like this work?
http://amzn.com/B000ARPVNO
What's the local equivalent to this (Marvel Mystery Oil)?
Lucas fuel treatment
I dump in 6 ounces every tankful. I usually fill up on a 1/4 tank. You can buy a small bottle to carry in the truck that way you have a quart on hand and it's easy to put in. Then I refill it out of the gallon jug
I also use FPPF Killem Biocide Additive. 1/2 an ounce every other tank.
Stabil.
Buy some. Go to WalMart or wherever you buy oil and whatnot. They will have it. When you put fuel in your bike put some stabil in as well. They have terms for how much is appropriate, I don't know them. I add a solid dollop or 6 when I fill up. Been doing it for 10 years, so far so good. Stabil keeps your gas from going stale. Stale gas is bad. Bike no run good. Adding to little may not get the job done. Add too much and all is well. It's cheap stuff. A bottle lasts me a year or two.
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Seriously consider heated gear. It's awesome.
>Any recommendations? my battery is already set up
The word on the street is that Gerbings makes the best stuff, very nice warranty as well. My electrics are FirstGear. Mostly because they were cheaper. 5-6 years of use thus far and no trouble from the gear.
You need a controller. Google it. On high - which is what electrics default too - you'll cook. IMO a jacket/gloves are the way to start. It's what I have been riding in for years now in PA. Pants/etc are all well and good.. but I don't seem to need them much. I may just be tough as nails ; )
Heated grips will do an awful lot and I have ridden through several winters with just grips and a jacket. Heated gloves are a sign from god that he loves us all and wants us to die on two wheels.
Good luck!
What kind of gas are you running? What brand?
In turbo engines running cheap low grade gas can cause carbon buildup. You should be buying gas from top tier stations.
Run this through your truck a couple of times, should help.
BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z4EKybBVCRTRY
If you regularly use brand name fuel like Chevron or Exxon, you can skip the injector cleaning well past 30k miles. If you regularly use the absolute cheapest gas you can find, you may way to use BG 44K on occasion. Probably works 90% as well as the dealer service at 15% the cost. https://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI
The cost of the equipment used for this job is expensive...that's why the shop is expensive (you're basically paying for their equipment or it's been already paid off. Since you don't have $$, I'll recommend 2 steps (It'll make you be a parts-swapper, but cheaper than a full diagnosis). Most of the time, the common bad parts are the gas cap (I doubt it) or the evap purge valve: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-503-Evaporative-Emissions-Canister/dp/B002E39YBW/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Infiniti%7C68&Model=G35%7C885&Year=2007%7C2007&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
Just replace the purge valve (follow a diy on youtube), buy a Foxwell OBD2 scanner (at least $50), clear the code, and you should be good to go. The purge valve is often the issue....otherwise diagnosis is needed.
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Edit: to pass the BS emissions test, just use CRC Emissions: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8#customerReviews read and follow directions.
You could do that several times if you wanted to. It would take more than a gallon though. This is what you need.
I always took two stones and a little Marvel Mystery oil and rubbed the stones together. Works like a charm. But honestly, that's not a lot of build up and won't affect your honing too much. When there are shiny spots where the edge meets the stone, that's when it needs to be cleaned, that's when there is a build up of metal material above the grit of the stone.
Not low on coolant √ So that sounds promising. I already have a new thermostat and will replace tomorrow. I just didnt want to drain the whole system again. Is the Subaru Coolant Conditioner something I should add as well?
Will check on the heater core hoses and update.
Thanks so much for your help!
Last update because you guys helped me solve the problem and it was relatively easy. Apparently I have a high-compression DR. I poured 1.5 ounces of this octane booster in the tank and boom! Runs smooth and pulls hard through all the gears now. Why was this so hard? I thought this stuff was snake oil. Especially for my old school stock engine. Guess I'm running 93 from now one. THANK YOU!!
For the lazy. Basically, you squeeze the main reservoir and it fills up the upper portion to your desired measurement. I don't know that I'd drink mouthwash out of an old Stabil bottle though...
UV Leak Dye
Try this with a UV light and glasses. They're available at most auto parts stores like autozone and advance. Add it into your coolant. It will show you exactly where the leak is coming from.
I went out and bought one of these Prestone Flush 'N Fill Kits and followed the directions in this XJTalk thread.
Yeah, it does. Theoretically if you run the car at 3000+ RPM for a while (30 minutes) every so often it's not supposed to happen. You can manage it by getting a spray-in cleaner every 30K (about $100-175 for a shop to do maybe?) or you can go whole hog and have the cylinder heads media-blasted every 60-70K (about $300-600 depending on what all they do). I mean I've had the dealer quote $1100 but they also change the oil and tires and all kinds of shit along with the intake cleaning.
Personally I had the media-blast done at ~70K and I will run the spray through it every six months or so as a maintenance. There's a couple of videos out there where someone will spray and then run a camera down the spark plug hole and it's cleaner but not as perfect as a media blast. So I'm thinking it's not going to clean off years worth of carbon but it might keep the buildup from forming if you keep after it.
One more thing, if you really want to try cleaning the injectors, on this car, buy this and throw it in your gas tank following the instructions for how much on the bottle. It's basically all the dealer is doing.
> Full winterization checklist: - bike on stands, wheels off ground - treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too) - change oil before storage - change coolant before storage - wash, wax and detail before storage - clean and lube chain (if so equipped)
This is hundreds of dollars worth of shit that plenty of people don't have to spare, so I'm gonna brake it down a bit.
> bike on stands, wheels off ground
If you don't own stands, this could cost $400 or more(cause you have to buy them). The point in doing this is to prevent flat spots in your tires, so if you've got old tires you don't give a shit about, just let it sit and change them next season. If you do give a shit about your tires but don't want to buy stands, just roll the bike around every week or so to change where it's stilling on the tires.
> treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too)
This is a big one that really shouldn't be neglected. You really, REALLY don't want to have to change an injector because a clump of old fuel clogged it. Fuel stabilizer is relatively cheap at $5 for 4 ounces so order some and get it into the bike before putting her away (let it run through the engine too, 1/8-1/4th of the full tank).
> change oil before storage
I take the opposite approach, changing the oil after storage. For the layman, changing your oil has little to do with lubrication. Oil is a lubricant by it's molecular structure, the actual oil itself never stops being a lubricant.
However, there are a ton of additives in oil to keep your engine clean. Anti-mosture, cleaning detergents, anti-foam, etc, etc. These break down over time and use(3 month, 3000 miles) and need to be replaced. And when they break down, they get in the way of your oil(basically filling it with crap so it doesn't lubricate as cleanly as new oil).
> change coolant before storage
IMHO no point in doing this as long as you stay up to date on your coolant. Does it look bad? Change it. Does it look good? Leave it. Just make sure you look it over when pulling her out next year.
> wash, wax and detail before storage
Wax isn't going to protect your paint from cold temps. If you have a cover, put it over the bike to keep it from getting covered in dust.
> clean and lube chain (if so equipped)
Definitely a good idea, 3 months is plenty of time for a change to get some heavy rust on it. If you're super lazy, at least spray it down with some lube(Not WD-40!) before putting it away.
Where is it leaking from? The pressure hose or the pump itself?
PS leaks are fairly affordable and straightforward to fix, so rather than trying to "divert the leak", you're better off fixing it. PS fluid is flammable, so you run the risk of it splashing on the exhaust manifold and catching fire.
You should be able to find both the pump & PS hose at a junkyard for under $100. Simple hand tools to replace.
If it's a minor leak, you could try your luck with Lucas PS stop leak. It's about one of the only "stop leak" products that actually works.
I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.
http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI
http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7
Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!
Ever try a fuel stabilizer?
Maybe a sealant can help you for a while, but given the amount you're losing I bet it's a big leak.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6
Did you change out your coolant with Subaru coolant and put in the Subaru coolant conditioner after your head gasket job? The conditioner is very important.
Example:
http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE
Marvel MM13R Mystery Oil - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4t3Syb5PE9GT4