Best engine part cleaners according to redditors
We found 19 Reddit comments discussing the best engine part cleaners. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 19 Reddit comments discussing the best engine part cleaners. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
One way to minimize this is to use a different chain lube that is less "sticky" and flings off. I prefer Pro Honda Chain Lube, but any "dry" chain lube with Teflon (or PTFE) work.
Cleaning more also helps instead of just throwing on more lube. I always clean then reapply more lube. Some of the bikes I see at work are atrocious and have so much excess goop and lube stuck under their front sprocket covers.
Some or all of these would be appreciated I bet!
S100 Total Cycle Cleaner - The fastest, easiest method to keep your bike clean
Maxima Clean-Up Chain Cleaner - This gets the bike's chain clean with little if any scrubbing needed
DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver - This keeps dirt out of the chain and keeps the links well lubricated
Look for throttle body or carburetor cleaner if you want an application-specific product. If you want a little more flexibility, try Gumout Parts Cleaner/Degreaser
https://www.amazon.com/Gumout-540001-Regane-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B06XF6NY3X
First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f
I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.
After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?
Here's what I'd like to buy:
I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
Thanks!
if the filter doesn't fix it all, or even as a proactive measure before installing the new filter, some
cleaner for the whole systemwould help alot. It goes in the intake behind the glovebox and outside the car as per directions on the can, just don't breathe much air from the cabin until you are done spraying, then breathe peacefully.edit: didn't look at that product as closely as I should have (sorry for that,) seems far more complicated than my actual favorite, whose process is a bit easier
I used this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UHD74E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It worked OK, and I stopped parking in a damp garage. I also changed the cabin filter.
Yes, this is the stuff I use. Works great and doesn't pick up too much dirt. Also, we've found that the Maxima chain cleaner works pretty well to get everything off.
Diesel and kerosene are damn near the same thing. You could also just buy a purpose made o-ring chain cleaner. It's pretty much diesel with aerosol if that's the brand I'm thinking of.
Make sure you give it a really good rinse afterwards and then lube it good. Seal it if you want too with chain wax, but I just keep a small bottle of chain lube under the back seat of my bike and spray it every few rides.
Question.
Why does the grease need removed? Greasing electrical contacts isn't necessarily uncommon to help prevent corrosion (and copper loves to corrode in ways that electricity doesn't like).
If you're sure you want to remove the grease, use America's favorite libation: CRC Brākleen in the non-California-approved red can. It's usually cheaper locally: I bought some today at Harbor Freight for $7.
You can also buy it by the gallon or larger, up to (at least) 55 gallon drums.
In that case, my back up is Griot's Garage products.
Griot's Garage 10975 Interior Detailer
Griot's Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner
Griot's Garage 10994 Leather Care Spray
I've found this to be better than their other degreasers https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-Drivetrain-Cleaner-500-ml/dp/B008B39EMI
Had no issues spraying it all over the drivechain and its been easier to use than the aerosol cans. Thicker as well so it stays on the chain and mech.
>Can you give me some examples of the cheap purpose made cleaners in case i cant get kerosene?
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Motorcycle-Degreaser-Sprockets-11-Ounce/dp/B003OBM5EQ/
http://www.amazon.com/Maxima-75920-Clean-Up-Chain-Cleaner/dp/B000WKATCM/
If you have a combined cleaner and lube that'll work just great. Apply to the inside of the chain, scrub, lube again and wipe clean.
Do your best not to get the lube on the tyres and if you do, clean that stuff off.
http://www.amazon.com/Ozium-Glycol-Ized-Professional-Sanitizer-OZM-22/dp/B000CSQJOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427366079&sr=1-2&keywords=ozium+new+car+scent
This stuff is quite powerful, non staining on my oem mats and available at most auto stores and definitely wal-mart. The only reason I ever tried it was a friend worked at a ford dealership years ago and when they had cars with a musty smell they would spray an enzyme cleaner on the a/c evaporator and then pop a can of this in the interior, they would then pull it in the shop and let it air out for two days because it was so frigging powerful.
Obviously you wouldn't need but a spray per mat and maybe under each seat if you like it pungent. About $5 at wal-mart. They also have another scent but you specifically said New Car so give it a try.
Not kidding, light sprays to test, one per mat...come back in 20 minutes and see if that is enough for you. Lasts quite awhile.
Any enzymatic odor eater should suffice on the evap core.
http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-760-Conditioner-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B000UHD74E
Edited to add: this is the one they used in the dealership.
http://www.ultrashield.com/products_AC.htm
Must be online only as I've never seen anywhere but there.
Edit to the edit: do you have a cabin air filter? The newer ones are carbon and baking soda impregnated and resist odors a lot better than the original design or a complete lack of like many of us have.
Yup, OP needs one of these and one of these.
Well that is a relief to hear. The truck was used as a farm truck previously, and the lower 3/4 of the engine bay is coated in mud. I have attempted to clean all the connections but it seems the passenger side battery has re-corroded on the positive terminal. Although it seems to drain the battery, it doesn't feel to be cranking (after charging) as fast as when i bought it . I will buy some permatex battery cleaner tomorrow and report back.
http://www.amazon.com/Maxima-75920-Clean-Up-Chain-Cleaner/dp/B000WKATCM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463087667&sr=8-4&keywords=chain+cleaner+motorcycle
I have found Hydro-Seal II to be very good at removing deposits.
You don't want to breathe the fumes or get it on you skin. Plug one end of the suppressor, fill it with hydro-seal and leave it over night (or a couple days if need be). Then empty it and run a test tube brush through the suppressor and flush it clean with something like Gunk carb spray.
Don't use OLD used Hydro-Seal as it will build up acids which can attack metal catastrophically. The clean HS will not harm metals. I once soaked a motorcycle carb in a bucket of old HS and forgot about it. A couple months later I pulled up the basket and the entire carburetor had dissolved into a lump of gray mush. I also placed a painted padlock key into the bucket and forgot about it, when I pulled the basket, the key was there and bright and shiney. When I tried to pick it up it just disintegrated. The HS had dissolved all the brass and left only the chrome plating which instantly broke apart when I touched it.
You can get it at some of the better auto parts stores. Here's a link to Amazon for four gallons of it.
http://www.amazon.com/Gunk-HS3-4PK-Hydro-Heavy-Cleaner/dp/B00BGSF92E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463169354&sr=8-1&keywords=Gunk+HS3-4PK+Hydro+Seal+Heavy+Duty+Parts+Cleaner
EDIT: I use Hydro Seal II on my suppressors with zero problems. Actually the OLD used HSII works well too you just have to be careful no to expose the metal for too long. I have containers of both. HSII is strange stuff, it becomes increasingly good at cleaning the older it gets but at some point it can be too good.
http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-760-Conditioner-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B000UHD74E
This stuff right here. I used to smoke in my vehicle (in the winter when it's too cold) and I would spray the seats and in the vents with this stuff. No one ever smells the smoke