(Part 2) Best fuses according to redditors
We found 188 Reddit comments discussing the best fuses. We ranked the 99 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
It is a fuse.
Thermal fuses are really cheap and very easy to integrate. I don't think it is even possible for them to import a heater without a thermal fuse into any developed/developing country.
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https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Circuit-Temperature-Thermal-Assortment/dp/B0719DHV9P?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
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That one is around 0.2$ per fuse and it is on Amazon. Imagine how cheap it would be for a Chinese manifacturer to buy tens of thousands of these in bulk, in China, where these things are produced.
If you need replacement fuses:
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Gold-Glass-Truck-Marine/dp/B073XWXQWJ/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=3+glass+fuse+block&qid=1558743539&s=gateway&sr=8-7
There should be some small etched text on the fuses themselves telling you what size amp they are.
And if you don't know what the amperage is, don't guess, get a professional, fuses can cause fires.
This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.
 
I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.
Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.
 
This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.
Get yourself a fuse tester like this.
Portable DC 24V Car Fuse Kit ATO/ATC ATM Blade Fuse Tester Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFSSCFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mVFpDbFD11SXY
Then pop open your fuse box, should have a diagram of what fuse goes to what on it.
https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2012_Mitsubishi_Lancer_SE_2.4L_4_Cyl./fuse_interior/replace
Touch metal prongs to tops of fuse. Should light up led on tester if the fuse is good.
It'll all work together well enough. Some will probably dog on you for buying a prefab box. But not everyone has the ability/skill/desire to build it themselves nor do they even care. When it comes to prefabs, I've found the QPower boxes to be pretty well built. Wish I knew the tuning frequency of that box, but hey, it'll be loud.
No, you don't need a whole second wiring kit for the LC2i. But you'll need some smaller, say 14 or 16 gauge, wire and a small inline fuse holder. 5A is more than sufficient. If you'll be doing more work on you/your friends car, just buy this kit now. Whole huge box for not much more money.
Thanks for your help. I bought this last week, so I should be good to go.
Check the fuse that has 100 / 70 on the top. See if its blown, or if you know how, use a multimeter to test for continuity.
If its blown, here you go
I have the older model of the Street Guardian SG9665GC v3 2017 edition.
Buy the 12v to 5v adapter in the “frequently bought together” list. You will need the “add a circuit” too, but you need the micro blade one.
I have had to use my dash cam footage in a parking lot MVC (other party backed into me doing $5,500 in damage). It was really helpful to send the insurance company the footage.
Post a pic of the fuse. I had some weird ones awhile back in a 1960's Okuma grinder that my 30+ year electrician thought I would never find but I did. Got a whole bunch of them now. Those ones were old style Coke bottle shaped. Big on one end and little on the other.
The ones I got were like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Fuji-Electric-BLA020-Bottle-600VAC/dp/B01M4L0Y2G
Just wire up another 100A fuse.
EDIT: 2 seconds of googling: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-MIDI-Fuses/dp/B01LBJN64U
This is the same fuse.
a relay that is switched on when the key is on feeding a fuse box like this one then that feeding all his accessories. Unless they are high current then they would need dedicated feeds. Things like amplifiers or recovery winches are high current like 20+ amps.
And unless the chassis has poor ground connections or you need high current you can ground to a bolt on the chassis if you can get the paint removed under the ground wire so its nice and clean. If its a high current load then you should have a dedicated ground wire at least one size up from your power wire back to the battery.
Example if he was running a 4 gauge power wire for a recovery which he should use an 2 gauge ground wire back to the battery.
Start with knowing the wattage of your largest loads. If you want a hot plate, that's fine, but know that they require approx. 1500 watts, so your inverter will need to be at least that big. Go higher if you're unsure.
Once you know the wattage of your inverter, you can figure out wire sizes based on what amp draw it will have at 12 VDC input. Typical inverters have an efficiency of 90%, so (from our example) 1650 watts divided by 12 volts is 137.5 amps. Based on this calculator at 10 feet of cable length, I would not go smaller than 2 AWG. You should put a 150 amp fuse inline between the battery and the inverter, and use the correct fuse holder and crimp-on lugs, or solder the lugs if you can.
Use power strips with internal circuit breakers and extension cords for distribution on the AC side - it's fast, easy, and acceptable. Just make sure your combined wattages never go over the rating of your inverter.
Charging the second battery is a bit tricky with solenoids and switches unless you get a battery isolator to put between the alternator and your second battery. It's just a giant diode with lugs.
RVs do this kind of thing all the time, you should be able to google for better wiring diagrams than you have. (No offense, but it was difficult to follow.)
I called up Tsunami and pointed me to one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BXKLNQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A342F12XA4IW3Q
I strongly suspect this is correct. The metal part should list the rating. Here is an example of some Link
Try the dye first, you might not even need to evacuate your system. Buy a kit like this.
I just installed a dash cam in my 2019. I used the fuse labeled 12V and haven't had any issues.
Edit: I used this Add-a-circuit Tap
You know, I hadn't looked yet. I was hoping to find a panel, or perhaps snap together receptacles, but on initial searching the best I found was something like this and I'd have to make the panel part myself.
Thanks for renewing my interest in that regard.
The sensor splices are on the ground circuit for the sensors on the intake and can be found under the loom on the firewall. Search Cruiser 54's Renix tips for a thorough explanation.
The vacuum disconnect axle is arguably stronger in the tube and control arm bracket, but it has a three piece axle in that side. You can remove the shifter and put a one piece shaft back in, or just unplug it and lock the shaft in the engaged position. I opted to replace the whole axle, primarily on account of it not coming with one and I had a later non disconnect axle to put in it. Thus, I removed the vacuum system associated with it.
Are you talking about this type of fuse holder? These were commonly used for glass fuses like this. It's possible the cap for a new fuse holder will fit the old one. If not, it shouldn't be too difficult to replace the whole thing.
Try using this type of fuse tap.
It's easy to connect to the fuse panel with these, Piggyback Fuse connectors:
https://smile.amazon.com/TOOHUI-Profile-Circuit-Harness-Connector/dp/B07Q86XLFW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=piggyback+fuse+connectors&qid=1557770829&s=gateway&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/5x20mm-Holder-Inline-150pcs-Assorted/dp/B07F8RLMPB
Put this inline on the outlet you want to limit