Best fuse blocks & fuse holders according to redditors
We found 38 Reddit comments discussing the best fuse blocks & fuse holders. We ranked the 24 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 38 Reddit comments discussing the best fuse blocks & fuse holders. We ranked the 24 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
OMG! How flippin' old is your house? I haven't seen one of those in forty years.
Congratulations. You are the proud owner of a Bussman receptacle and fuse holder. Man, that is seriously old school. Like 1930's old.
Believe it or not, you can still buy one today:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-BP-SRU-Receptacle-Holder/dp/B00004WA3I
The reason it's not working is that your microwave is drawing more power than the fuse could handle. Chances are that the wiring leading to that outlet is undersized, at least by today's standards. I urge you; no, I STRONGLY urge you not to pull out the outlet and replace it with a new one. I am worried that if I am correct, your microwave could overheat the wiring in that circuit. Trust me on this........overheating wires in an old house will never result in a good outcome.
If I am correct about what caused the outlet to shut down, you should pull a new circuit into the kitchen for your microwave. It is the safe way to solve your problem.
Others have covered understanding current draw and battery capacity. I'll add a couple more things:
Here's my 5 amp hour LiPo for my FT-817 with fuse and powerpoles. https://imgur.com/a/OWpJQ
I see I was paged.
So, this is actually very easy to do, it just depends on how you want to make it work.
Option 1: Power is on all the time, even when the bike is off.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10826&cs_id=1082603&p_id=10239&seq=1&format=2
And one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/E-PRANCE-Battery-Cigarette-overload-protection/dp/B00D7XNN7O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394732327&sr=1-4&keywords=12v+cigarette+lighter+power+adapter
You will cut the CLIPS off of that power socket and solder the fused 12V that you ran from the battery to your dash, to this. MAKE VERY SURE TO DOUBLE CHECK THE POLARITY (+/-) AS YOU GO, so you do not hook anything up backwards.
Then, you just plug in that 2slot USB adapter and BINGO, you have fused 12V USB power at your dash. You can charge TWO phones, ipads, gps, mp3 player, etc....
Depending on the model of the USB adapter, it may actually stay lit (small led on the adapter shows when it has power) all the time. My buddy did this exact install and he leaves it lit for WEEKS and the battery fires right up because the drain is essentially nothing. If you park your bike for long periods of time, just unplug the 2slot USB adapter from the cigarette lighter and that will ensure that there is NO drain from this mod on your battery.
OPTION 2: Run this same setup, but do it from a fuse on your fuse block that gets power only when the bike is on.
To do this, just refer to the Service Manual for your bike, and find the accessory power fuse. An example is here:
http://screwloosedan.com/cm/albums/userpics/10001/Capture~0.JPG
In that pic, the #5 fuse is accessory power.
You can use an "add a line fuse kit" to tap into this accessory power and it even gives you a built in FUSE for the new line (obviously verify that the add a line kit you order is for THE CORRECT FUSE TYPE/SIZE!, this is just an example).
http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-Holder-Circuit-Profile-Automotive/dp/B00EO5P2B4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394732595&sr=8-2&keywords=add+a+line+fuse
So, for this method, you would install it the same way, but starting at Step 3, because adding this "add a line" kit will give you a fused 12V+ line from the accessores, so you just run your ground (-) line to the frame or to any common ground (like the battery negative terminal).
Get those wires to the dash, and then run the steps above starting at Step 4.
12 volt switches are dirt cheap. All you need is a bit of plywood, a drill, electrical cables, some soldering skill and the switches themselves.
You can buy 10-packs of switches for 10 bucks. Higher quality ones are a few bucks each, but probably worth it for reliability.
Something like (but not necessarily exactly this):
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Toggle-Flick-Switch-Light/dp/B015DOGAV0/
If you want indicators that a circuit is on that's easy too (a light that goes on when it's active) - LED lights that are ready to add to a panel are also cheap. Though you can choose what level of quality you want to go for. These look decent (possibly too bright).
https://www.amazon.com/PLUG-N-PLAY-Instrument-Indicator-Aluminum-Speedometer/dp/B01F2GSZRG/
If you want a fuse on every circuit the way that panel you linked to has, you can buy fuse holders also.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Panel-Mount-Holder-Screw/dp/B0087YASSA for example.
What I'd do, and have done is run this into these Power distrobution block w/ fuse, and ground distribution block. Then you can just get a few feet of 4 gauge red/black for your amps.
Heh, sorry. You need to connect the red wire to a 12volt DC power source (more on that in a minute) and the black to "ground" (any metal part of the car. Usually a screw on the body somewhere).
The power is normally supplied by the lighter adapter, but as you can imagine, there is a lot of electricity flowing around your car. The simplest solution is to get a properly sized fuse tap (there are 2-3 different sizes of fuses commonly used so you have to make sure you get the right one for your car). You remove a fuse (for something that gets power only when the car is on, like the radio) from the fuse box under the steering wheel, plug in the tap and add the fuse back in on top.
You can then crimp the red wire of the direct connect into the fuse tap and you have power. Find something metal to screw the black wire to, and that recreates what the lighter plug does without taking up the space in the lighter.
As far as how to do it in the back of a car, you will have to pull some interior body panels off to get access, but stuff like license plate lights are usually a great place to get a switched source of power.
To get power from a wire that's already in place, you just need one (not the 100 in the link) of these instead of a fuse tap. You slide one end over the existing wire, plug the new wire you want spliced into the other end, then use pliers and snap the cover down, which automatically splices the wire for you.
Hope that's clearer.
These are Cooper Bussmann DM20-GY and you will need 15mm Din Rail for those.
It's a standard CCTV Item. The power supply is too.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Salon-Panel-Position-Distribution-Module/dp/B01FCW7T0E/
I recently freed up a rack unit on my desk and wanted some electronic bench tools handy when working at my computer. First order of business was a power supply, so I picked up some parts and then designed a panel for everything to mount in.
Parts:
Source files (saved with SketchUp 2017)
There's a fair amount of available space so as I figure on needing additional bench tools I can add them by printing new faceplates.
I got it on Amazon.
Electronics-Salon Panel Mount 10 Position Power Distribution Fuse Module Board, For AC/DC 5~32V . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCW7T0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Xu51Bb8X6834K
So just replacing it you would need to verify that the conduit is providing the ground. It is done that way sometimes.
If it is the ground this should suffice. https://www.amazon.com/Bussman-BP-SRU-Fuse-Cover/dp/B00004WA3I/
Do note that I have no clue as to how code effects all of this. I am not an electrician I just play at one. I will let the real ones around here answer how code plays out here.
Hi,
I found two different video's where they tell you which harness & wires are to be used for the main speakers between the two different style head units, for MK6 Jetta's respectably. If you have anything other than a base model, your car will likely have tweeters as well, not to be confused for the line out converter install (and if you have the Fender setup then I have no clue). I may be able to find the diagram somewhere that I used for my LOC setup. Good luck!
The LOC/harness wiring is described @ 5:50 for this one
and
This one starts at 10:35 for the wiring - I personally don't like to use the "piggyback" wiring connectors this guy uses & suggests; rather wire in anything power related with an inline fuse box setup so it's protected.
You could just grab the 12V directly from the fuse box using something like this. That's what a lot of dashcams do. Just select one with a fuse and wire rated for the current you want. You can also use a separate fuse for the charger and the raspberry pi if its that much of a concern, then just use a step down converter to power the pi and power the stepper motors directly off the 12V line.
If you want to get really fancy you could have a separate battery for powering your system, then charge that battery with a 12V line from the car. That kind of system would be a lot more resistant to interruptions from the starter motor.
www.z1enterprises.com for OEM and hard to find parts.
Something like this to replace the crappy glass fuses. Though, it'd be best if you can find a 4 fuse block. Hella used to make one, but amazon doesn't carry it anymore.
Hi! I'm a car technician I work with electrical every day. I can tell you this you'll be better off sticking the arduino inside the engine bay than the trunk the amount of work required to run a cable from the front to the back of the car is quite a bit since you need to remove panels and insulate the wire from the bare metal of the car (which can scrape the wire and cause a short circuit)
Here what you would need to do....buy a black project box stick it somewhere near the intake or near the battery see picture here now for the polarity it's quite simple battery terminal that has a red rubber covering it is + and the one that has a black rubber is negative (might not have a rubber at all) but please note that the voltage in your car can spike to 14.4 while running so i'd make sure you get a regulator that can handle that. Also don't make any holes in the intake...use zipties (Quality ones so they don't melt it gets quite hot in the engine bay)
edit: also use a 3-5 amp fuse or whatever amperage you're going to need but make sure you use a fuse! also are you trying to keep it hidden?
Some screwdrivers, pliers and a socket wrench to get into the tighter spots.
I used this to power the under the seat amp
http://www.amazon.com/Circuit-ATC-Piggy-Standard-Holder/dp/B009K6U582
Replacing speakers is so easy, it took me 45 minutes tops. The head unit was a little more time consuming, but very simple if you follow instructions online. You just have to remove the whole bottom part of the dash
It doesn't. Sawstop sells phenolic plates.
You can roll your own, but the reliefs involved make it prohibitive to make good replicas -
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QsJsqd-ulr8/TSBG4f2TQwI/AAAAAAAAC4I/1Ywo0_oj9zE/s1600/IMG_1819.JPG
Pricing appears locked at $39 everywhere -
http://sawstop.3dcartstores.com/Inserts_c_276.html
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSI-DLD-Dado-Lock-Insert/dp/B005VDA3G2/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3
a relay that is switched on when the key is on feeding a fuse box like this one then that feeding all his accessories. Unless they are high current then they would need dedicated feeds. Things like amplifiers or recovery winches are high current like 20+ amps.
And unless the chassis has poor ground connections or you need high current you can ground to a bolt on the chassis if you can get the paint removed under the ground wire so its nice and clean. If its a high current load then you should have a dedicated ground wire at least one size up from your power wire back to the battery.
Example if he was running a 4 gauge power wire for a recovery which he should use an 2 gauge ground wire back to the battery.
Like this?:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U61OPZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3CA5H83RV6W5M
I just installed a dash cam in my 2019. I used the fuse labeled 12V and haven't had any issues.
Edit: I used this Add-a-circuit Tap
You know, I hadn't looked yet. I was hoping to find a panel, or perhaps snap together receptacles, but on initial searching the best I found was something like this and I'd have to make the panel part myself.
Thanks for renewing my interest in that regard.
The sensor splices are on the ground circuit for the sensors on the intake and can be found under the loom on the firewall. Search Cruiser 54's Renix tips for a thorough explanation.
The vacuum disconnect axle is arguably stronger in the tube and control arm bracket, but it has a three piece axle in that side. You can remove the shifter and put a one piece shaft back in, or just unplug it and lock the shaft in the engaged position. I opted to replace the whole axle, primarily on account of it not coming with one and I had a later non disconnect axle to put in it. Thus, I removed the vacuum system associated with it.
It's easy to connect to the fuse panel with these, Piggyback Fuse connectors:
https://smile.amazon.com/TOOHUI-Profile-Circuit-Harness-Connector/dp/B07Q86XLFW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=piggyback+fuse+connectors&qid=1557770829&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Well, I think the cleanest way (not messing with factory wiring) is to either add the cable directly to the battery, or to get the ground from the factory ground point, and the positive from the positive solenoid cable. The latter way is the most nice (otherwise you have a bunch of connections on the battery).
There should be two wires on the battery, a positive and a negative (sometimes there are two positive, but rare on modern bikes unless someone already messed with the wiring). Follow the thickest positive cable, it will go to a solenoid like this. First of course remove the battery from the bike (to avoid any shorts while messing with the wiring). Then unscrew that cable which goes directly from the positive battery to the solenoid, on the solenoid end. Now you need to get an eye wiring connector on the cable of that fuse box (most likely with a 6mm or 8mm hole, you can find them at any electrical store or any electrician...), and add it on the solenoid (besides the factory thick wire coming to it, and perhaps there are even other factory wires on there...). Also use some heat shrink tubing on the crimped eye to insulate and make it look clean (I'd also suggest you use as much wire sleeving as possible - either pvc or braided or just heat shrink tubing - that makes the wiring job look really nice and safer, you can also use insulation tape but that's a bit less professional). That's it, you have the fuse block wired to a good positive battery connection. For the negative, also follow the thick negative wire from the battery, it usually goes to the frame or an engine mount - unscrew it there, and add another wire with the eye connector on. Insulation isn't important for ground wires, but it still looks a lot nicer if you use it.
I would most likely keep it hidden and use the charger for just the dashcam, nothing else. Just debating if it's worth spending the extra $20-25 (CAD) on the anker charger and USB cable.
The fuse tap that I bought (this one) has a 5amp fuse - I don't need another in-line fuse, do I?
I'm on the fence about the always on fuse. I want it for parking mode, which supposedly right now is sub-par on the A119s, and it would also end up costing me an extra $40CAD for the low voltage cut off.
Any thoughts around going one way or the other with respect to my situation?
There's my problem.
http://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OPZ4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Based upon that specific one.... you have the SMALL version. I ordered the MINI and its too shallow. Thanks for your help, I will be ordering up the small version now.
Which fuse did you tap into? It seems like the consensus is 86 but it makes me weary since its the airbag module. Are there any others that are on only with the ignition?
Thanks again for your help!
Here is the emblem, here is the exterior lighting, here is the interior lighting, and here is the fuse tap needed to wire anything to a car's fuse box!
I used something like this when I wired one into the CRZ.
https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-ATC-Piggy-Standard-Holder/dp/B009K6U582
I called up Tsunami and pointed me to one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BXKLNQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A342F12XA4IW3Q
I don't know of any plug in devices, but you could install a small fuse holder out there and protect only the receptacles the caretaker has access to. Order a 7 or 8 amp fuse and it'd give you a fighting chance.
https://www.amazon.com/5x20mm-Holder-Inline-150pcs-Assorted/dp/B07F8RLMPB
Put this inline on the outlet you want to limit