(Part 2) Best home audio subwoofers according to redditors

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We found 1,998 Reddit comments discussing the best home audio subwoofers. We ranked the 200 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Home Audio Subwoofers:

u/rasgua2000 · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2"

Dayton Audio B452 4-1/2"

Yamaha NS-SW100BL 10"

Dayton Audio C452-AIR Dual 4-1/2"

Yamaha RX-V483BL 5.1-Channel

I believe that they already come with the requisite cables and wires.
You won't want to upgrade for a long time.

u/riley212 · 8 pointsr/hometheater

SVS PB2000 sub -$800

Marantz SR5009 $420

Infinity primus center $200

Infinity primus towers $300 for the pair

Infinity primus bookshelfs $190 for a pair add another pair for 7.1

add another big subwoofer later for more oompf. the primus series represents pretty good value and they will play quite impactfully

then figure in another grand for a projector and screen

u/atm259 · 6 pointsr/realdubstep

Well, I think the most important thing to know is the price range. I also tell friends who are buying their first system to save their money/time and buy QUALITY. Maybe intro level quality is all you can afford, that's fine. You will need to spend 300$+ to get a great sounding setup. Look on amazon for reviews and think about TOTAL costs. Look on craigslist as well, some people don't know how much their system is worth :) This is what you'll need for a 5.1/3.1 system:

Satellite speakers, a dedicated sub, an amp, speaker wires, and whatever specifics for your amp/speakers.

For speakers and subs, I would recommend brands such as Polk audio, Klipsh, Martin, JBL, Onkyo, Velodyne, Pioneer, Bose etc. (for speakers anywhere from $100 a pair to infinty, lol. And for subs $100 to infinity.)

For Amps I recommend Pioneer, Sherwood, Polk Audio, Harman Kardon, Onkyo, Sony, JBL, etc. (from $75 to infinity).

Here's a great polk setup:
SUB, TOWERS, SPEAKERS, AMP.

What NOT to do: Don't buy huge packages, you usually get screwed on those. Don't buy big or loud without a name behind it. Don't fuck with soundbars. In general, don't buy logitec or creative for home setups, cpus are fine. Don't go cheap, you will only regret this decision. Do your research and compare in your price range, you can always spend more to get better.

Thanks to rohizzle for teaching me everything I know, big ups to him!

u/zeppoleon · 6 pointsr/audiophile

Sorry mate, I just see too many of the same posts here. I suggest going through the pages because I am sure someone has posted something similar.

EDIT: if $300-500 is your budget then you are in for a treat when you get some actual speakers up an running. For a ~$300 budget I recommend getting the Pioneer SP-BS41-LR bookshelf speakers, Onkyo TX-8255 receiver, and if you want more bass you could get the Pioneer SW-8. I suggest monoprice.com for speaker cables and such.

But this is a new set-up. For more bang for your buck though you should definitely go vintage. It's just a lot more complicated and more time consuming trying to find the right equipment at the right price in a good condition.

u/Defender2142 · 6 pointsr/headphones

I sincerely hope I get enough volume to enjoy this, I suppose even if I can't hear it, I will feel it beside my feet, which might be worth it enough, I was considering getting bass transducers but that ended up looking like a lot more work than I thought. This is the sub in question: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KGA6A8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Though I have to say coming from an alpine type S 12" and a 500w amp that I have stashed away in my car I am curious as to how a 6" 150W sounds.

u/ZeosPantera · 5 pointsr/audio

My professional opinion is CRAP that place is huge! A bit too huge to get all over sound coverage with a $500 budget.

Does it need to be all over?? Is there going to be a preferred area in a corner or something?

Like Calinet6 said your going to have insane reverb in there. Normally you take care of this with sound reinforcement and a ton of speakers playing softly as opposed to two or four blasting at full volume.

I think your best bet is to get some sort of rolling cart and put all your equipment on it. Then just roll it to where you want the music. It could even have speakers fire in all directions. Still this would require you to plug it in where ever you are to 110V. Sort of like an insane $500 rolling boom box. You may even be able to get some sort of stereo imaging if you positioned the speakers right.

That Behringer Cal linked is rated highly so it is a good recommendation.

You then just need a pair of nice loud speakers(this is sold EACH!). These may not be as tough as outdoor speakers or commercial but you can cover them or roll them into a corner closet for storage if the weather got real bad.

Cart $57

AMP $199

SKR $280

It would be great if the budget could fit a down-firing subwoofer but alas it cannot.

I wouldn't worry too much about input switching. An ipod or a cheap Netbook with a cheap usb Dac would hold all the music in the world. I am sure you have that part already.

EDIT: Just thought I would say. This sort of mobile system is much more likely to be "removed from the premises without permission" then a permanent mounted system. Just keep that in mind.

u/thugIyf3 · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Hmm I think this is a good game to play. I would like to open this up to everyone and have them comment on the exact model of what I have in my picture. I'll edit my post with the confirmation and links of what everything is. Clues: look at old version of my battle stations

Go!

Laptop: [Dell XPS 15 L521X] (http://www.amazon.com/Dell-XPS-XPS15-9062sLV-15-Inch-Laptop/dp/B009FX7BWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022233&sr=8-1&keywords=l521x) [System Specs] (http://i.imgur.com/x4VrjFg.png)

Laptop Stand: [Cooler Master Ergostand] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-ErgoStand-Adjustable/dp/B003GCQ1YI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022264&sr=8-2&keywords=cooler+master+ergostand)

Webcam: [Logitech C/B 910] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-960-000683-B910-HD-Webcam/dp/B0040508OY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022290&sr=8-2&keywords=logitech+910)

Speakers: [2 pair of Dayton B652] (http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022347&sr=8-1&keywords=b652)

Keyboard: [CM Storm Trigger Black Switches] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129009)

Mouse: [Anker Gaming Mouse] (http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Programmable-Gaming-Cartridge-Switches/dp/B00CDINUTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022458&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+5000+dpi)

USB Hub: [Anker 13 port USB 3.0 hub] (http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-13-Port-Charging-VL812-B2/dp/B00GSLMTQ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022483&sr=8-2&keywords=anker+10+port+hub)

Computer screens: [2 of LGE2242] (http://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-EB2242T-BN-22-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B007XNRAQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022508&sr=8-1&keywords=lg+e2242)

Monitor Mount: [Vivo Monitor Stand] (http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Mount-Stand-Adjustable-Screens/dp/B009S750LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022540&sr=8-1&keywords=vivo+stand)

Receiver: [JVC 703VBK] (http://i.imgur.com/LvoOg2x.jpg)

Hexagonal device: [Moto Stream] (http://www.amazon.com/Moto-Stream-Wireless-Music-Adapter/dp/B00L4VZZFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022672&sr=8-1&keywords=moto+stream)

Subwoofer: [Yamaha YST-SW012] (http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YST-SW012-8-Inch-Front-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B000TQ4D8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023087&sr=1-1&keywords=yst+sw012)

Headphones: [Monoprice 108323] (http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108323-Premium-Hi-Fi-Headphone/dp/B007SP2CO2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022699&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+headphones)

Hard drive: [Seagate 3TB expansion drive] (http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023141&sr=1-2&keywords=seagate+3tb)

Cased device on top of hard drive: [Raspberry Pi B] (http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-512MB-Computer/dp/B00LPESRUK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023042&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi)

Chair (this is a hard one): I forget

u/lombard0_o · 4 pointsr/Metal

He uses this and this in his listening room.

Or you were asking for something else? Sorry if I misunderstood you.

u/i_make_things_move · 4 pointsr/battlestations

I have the Acoustic Audio PSW-8 as my subwoofer.

Its actually quite easy as there is a red/white line in on the subwoofer and all you do is directly connect that to the back of the one A2+ that has all the connections and it will sync. I'm away from my setup at the moment so can't add any pictures to show.

I also have the Audio Engine D1 DAC/Headphone Amp which really helps with controlling the volume of both the speakers and the subwoofer. I plug my headphones into the headphone port on it so I don't have to change the audio output on my computer when I want to use them. It help makes the whole setup a bit more seamless in my opinion.

u/ShadeThief · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Looks to be this. It's a powered sub, so it has a built in amp

u/applevinegar · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yes.

First of all, you're wasting a lot of money on electronics. Speakers make sound and speakers are what you should spend money on. Electronics merely have to drive the speakers and as soon as they're capable of doing that, they can't provide a very tangible ulterior benefit.

I'll give you two alternatives; the first one covers the whole frequency range, but requires more real estate and a bit of tinkering:

  • Two standmount speakers such as the KEF R300s or Monitor Audio Gold 100s
  • A capable 5.2 receiver with room correction for proper bass management such as this, which includes support for networking services including chromecast
  • Two SVS SB-2000 subwoofers

    the second sacrifices the subwoofers for simplicity and is intended if you don't listen to music that reaches into the lowest sub-bass frequencies (while still being perfectly capable of hitting very low notes, pretty much the whole range of most music):

  • A pair of Magneplanar 1.7is
  • A Yamaha A-S501 amplifier (although you could always get the aforementioned 5.2 receiver gearing for an eventual subwoofer addition, which I recommend)

    To conclude, Maggies with a pair subwoofers would be my favourite setup. It is a bit over your current budget but there's always time for additions: you can get one sub in a while, then a second later on. If you don't get a multichannel receiver now, you need an external active crossover then, possibly with DSP, which will eventually bring the total cost above that of the more costly receiver.

    Granted, these are my preferences and you should go out and listen before making a purchase.
u/concentus7 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

If you want home theater gear that's actually worth investing in, then yes, it's a pipe dream. If we were talking BARE minimum in terms of quality and price for 5.1, you'd be looking at about $520 at the very least.

u/picmandan · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For your situation I would recommend a smaller, decent quality sub. It will be good for music (which doesn't see a lot of action below 40Hz) and add sufficient bottom end to enhance movies over lessor speakers (but true SUB junkies may sneer). And you can use bookshelf speakers without worrying about missing the lower notes. I think an 8" model would be ideal.

Apparently, I haven't shopped for an inexpensive 8" sub in a while, and all my go-to items are now discontinued or replaced, but I'll list them anyway as they have some limited availability new, or on the used market. (Prices are USD.)

The HSU STF-1 (used as they no longer seem to be made) might be good. (The $400 VTF-1 seems like overkill in your situation.)

You can sometimes get good deals on the $200 Martin Logan Dynamo 300, which is pretty nice, my son has one, we picked up for not much over $100.

And a lot of folks appreciated the Pioneer SW-8. (Discontinued - now the $160 SW-8Mk2, which can frequently be had for < $120.)

*Edit: Don't feel compelled to match the manufacturer of the sub to the rest of your speakers. There have been a number of good budget subs out there, and all will work well with the Wharfedales, not just a Wharfedale sub.

u/TK503 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Can you guys look this over and make sure I have something worth buying? I have about $1000 to spend on a 2.1 setup for a computer desktop setup.

KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers

SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier

Then finally one of these three.

Klipsch R-100SW 10" Subwoofer

Klipsch R-120SW 10" Subwoofer

or

Klipsch Reference R-10SW 10" 300w Powered Subwoofer

Also would I need to buy the speaker wires to set these up or do they come with wire?

u/ctfrommn · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Ok, after looking at the hookup options on the Elac and DefTech I think you should just go with the 10" Micca. Looks better built than the 10" Dayton. Should be more than enough for that room and those speakers as well as when you update them.

u/calipilot227 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Get a pair of bookshelf speakers and a powered subwoofer.

Pioneer SP-BS41-LR
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS41-LR-Watt-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B0045US6DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344833156&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+sp-bs41

Pioneer SW-8
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SW-8-Watt-Subwoofer-System/dp/B004MF2ZG6/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_c

And you may need speaker stands. I have a pair of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Sanus-Systems-Natural-Foundations-Black/dp/B00005USAY/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1344833222&sr=8-13&keywords=sanus+speaker+stands

Should be more than enough to get you started, assuming you have a receiver already. I have just the bookshelf speakers, and while I find the bass perfect for rock, I'd recommend the powered subwoofer for house.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/hometheater

OP: Ideally less than $2k ($1k per sub) for the subs if possible.

The SB-4000 are going to perform better, but they are $1600 a piece, vs $600 for open box SB-2000's.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00IE5MOUM

/u/IncendiaryGames, SVS has a 45 day trial program, so if you buy the 2000's you can decide to go bigger after hearing them.

u/BL24L · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Hello,

I'm looking into replacing my Psw505 with a sub that hits deeper. My Psw505 can rattle the walls but it lacks punch. Looking around I found these two options in my price range,

Svs PB-1000 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K88UMPW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AKR88PAWTQVN2&psc=1

Svs PB-2000 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I985V4U/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A2H3DYB5PUVNNI&psc=1

Both of these subs should have more punch then the Psw505 from what I've read.

I posted a picture of the room I'll be using the sub in. The room dimensions are 14'x11' usable space. My Psw505 is located on the left side of the room, not pictured. My main usage is movies/netflix 85%, gaming 10%, music 5%.

Are the subs I linked good options for what I want? Are there other options worth considering?

Thanks,

u/Armsc · 2 pointsr/hometheater

You've been given some good responses already but I'll just add a bit to it.

Here are the problems with soundbars.

  1. They are throw away - When something stops work (usually those blasted wireless subs) you throw them away and start over. With an AVR you can reuse the speakers and sub and you can add bluetooth receivers and other things to it.

  2. You can't upgrade them - You can simply change out the speakers to better units to improve the sound. If you don't like it you're stuck. A lot of them have a proprietary "sub" that comes with them. If it can't provide enough low end well you're just out of luck. With an AVR based system you can get another or larger sub to handle the low end.

  3. They can only do so much - Yes soundbars will give you more than a TV as far as audio (I'm actually kind of fan for them for certain applications) but they will never give you a full surround experience. They also at a fixed length and most of them won't even get as far as the sides of the TV so your stereo separation is what it is.

  4. Limited in inputs - You can't put a bunch of stuff into them like you can an AVR. Now if you're just watching TV this is not a big deal. However, if you want multiple sources then it's better to get an AVR and have it do the switching.

    Now the good points...I know most will say none but I think there are a few.

  5. Cost - They tend to be very affordable. They bring the amp, speakers and sub all in one cheap package. For a low budget they can be decent.

  6. Compact size - because of integration they don't take up much room and can be deployed where larger options cannot.

  7. Easy of use - Yeah if you have parents/grandparents this is what you want. Volume up and down and that's it. One wire into it to feed it and you're done.

    Here are my thoughts on that sound bar if you wanted them.

  8. It's under my limit of $200 so that's a plus. Much more than that I'm thinking you should look for a different option.

  9. I would pass on it because I hate wireless subs. They always have issues and without the system is going to sound thin, weak and just underwhelming.

  10. The bar looks to small to have drivers of any decent size. That's asking the sub to pick up the slack. Again I would pass.

    Instead of that one I would recommend my go to Yamaha YAS 107 $196 or the Yamaha ATS1060 refurb $100. These units have built in "subs" combined with two other drivers per side. They actually do a decent job with both movies and music. The low end might not be as good but the mids and highs will trump the sony. The good news is they can sent signal to a powered sub. So if you feel like you want more low end get a powered sub like this Yamaha NS-SW100BL if you want it to be all matchy. If not a Dayton Sub 1200 $150 and a subwoofer cable $15 would be a very good option.
u/AlienStag · 2 pointsr/hometheater

For a subwoofer, if your wife just won't want to have a large box in the room, then a slim subwoofer like this one from Dayton Audio might be the answer. Obviously this won't get you the best performance but if you can't get a subwoofer any other way, this is an option.

Dayton Audio SUB-1000L 10" 100 Watt Low-Profile Powered Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOZ1WHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8DO4AbHZG9TBK

u/SmittyJonz · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

$800 Budget you could get speakers,DAC and sub if you got a Cheaper sub........

Audioengine A5+ - $399

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Active-2-Way-Speakers-Black/dp/B005OA3BSY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Audioengine+a5%2B&qid=1563146222&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Klipsch R-14M Powered with sub out: $249

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=klipsch+powered&qid=1563146911&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Klipsch R-15M $339

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15PM-Powered-Monitor-Black/dp/B01A7J534G/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Klipsch+R-15M+powered&qid=1563147561&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

DACs $69-$169

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Audioengine+DAC&qid=1563146260&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&smid=AKR88PAWTQVN2

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Mica+origen+G2&qid=1563146337&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-es9018k2m-opa2134-Decoder-Amplifier/dp/B07B46KQVP/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=DAC&qid=1563146377&s=electronics&sr=1-11

https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Converter-Headphone-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B07G2NQYLX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Fosi+DAC&qid=1563146439&s=electronics&sr=1-1

Sub: $119-$399

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU3AA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Dayton+Audio+10%22+sub&qid=1563146581&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer-MS10/dp/B07B4MSXZ8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Micca+Ms10&qid=1563146614&s=electronics&sr=1-2

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-R-10SW-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00MH42BBI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Klipsch+sub&qid=1563147376&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-HTS-SUB-BLK/dp/B075M34866/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Polk+HTS+10%22sub&qid=1563146734&s=electronics&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Black-8-inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0013J1DI0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=audioengine+sub&qid=1563146797&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://rslspeakers.com/products/rsl-speedwoofer-10s/

Zeos - ZReviews- Klipsch R-15M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en_1H_wZSvg&t=971s

u/Katemartinez91 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So, I'm working with a setup I got for free.
I've got these 55w speakers that have built in passive 110w subwoofer.

caption
caption

The amp - AVC I'm using only has an output for a powered subwoofer.

caption

Is a subwoofer amp like the Acoustic Audio WS1005 worth it?

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-WS1005-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00VF5TY7E

Or am I better off with a pair of micca mb42x and a powered subwoofer?

u/shickapooka800 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

careful with newegg. they are a great retailer no doubt, but the 'discount' they list is usually based on list price -- which no one ever pays anyway.
here is amazon's offering which is actually a few $ cheaper.

Just wanted to point this out as I know how hard it sometimes is to pass up a "great deal". Trust me, you've got plenty of time to decide.

u/pernicat · 2 pointsr/hometheater

What about something like this receiver?

this sub?

And the Daytons you link to before, plus a center channel?

So the best way to test a set of surround speakers is to use them without a sub and see how they sound?

u/peanuttown · 2 pointsr/PS4

TV - https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN65KS9500-Curved-65-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01C5TFNPK

AVR - https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVRS510BT-R-Refurbished-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B017AECEJI/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473286543&sr=1-6&keywords=4k+avr ( Only rocking 5.1 Surround, so this worked for me )

2 front speakers - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3rPGJFESfd8/p_109S312/JBL-S312.html ( have had these bad boys for about 5 years and they are still insanely amazing! )

My center speaker is from an older Sony setup I had. And the 2 rear speakers are customs I made. I forget what they all have , except I know they are both rocking 10" xplodes from my old car :P

Sub - https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YST-FSW150BL-Advanced-Down-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B000V7H1FO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473286736&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+black+2+sub ( my old sub went out just a few weeks ago. Due to already have a ton of bass from my rears, this little boy does the trick of giving the lower sounds, especially for the size of my room. It's nothing expensive or fancy, but it works. )

The JBL's are my real pride and joy, along side the new TV now :P

u/a_dub_yah · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Totally agree, the few I've looked at:

HTD S80 https://www.htd.com/Sub-80LP

I like the dual woofer and the external amplifier. I currently have the HTD Level 3 LCR mains and have loved them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOZ1WHY/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Also looking at this one which is a good amount cheaper and free shipping through prime.

u/sharkamino · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Consider $150 to $200 for just the speakers then add a subwoofer later.

For a low budget, best to look used first. Which Craigslist city/area?

So-cal internet direct speaker manufacturers:

u/LandlockedPirate · 2 pointsr/sonos

Since the sub is not powered, and you're already using the amplified outputs of the Connect:Amp for your speakers, you would need to use a sub amp like this one to drive that sub.

u/knovaa · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

OK. You have several speaker options:

u/deplorable-d00d · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here's another copy of the Dayton type sub - apparently using a different plate amp, I would imagine its the same box and woofer made at the same plant.

u/eonedic · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Any good?

MartinLogan DYN500D Dynamo 500 Subwoofer (Black) (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQQQRDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Dwd5CbYPKQ70W

u/moochs · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have the Miccas along with this sub running off this amp. Glorious sound for just over $200 total.

u/tonyviv · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

What's your primary usage? The ML is very good for music as is this Pioneer http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MF2ZG6/. For HT applications there are other good budget options depending on your budget.

u/Nixxuz · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Lii Audio Crystal 10

SVS SB-2000

Yaqin MC-13S EL34 P/P Amp

This is very nearly what I actually have, with some additional gear and mods, but it would do very well for music.

u/thrasherht · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Does it plug into wall power?

If not, then it is passsive, and cannot be run by that receiver.

If the sub is of good quality you could pick up an amp and run it that way, or just replace it with a new sub.
This would be a decent option.

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-WS1005-Frequency-Subwoofer/dp/B00VF5TY7E/

---

As for replacing it.
Check out this thread on avsforum for good options in a budget.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/1364182-list-budget-subwoofers-300-less.html

u/0Slppls0 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Earthquake Sound CP8 Couch Potato Slim 8-Inch Subwoofer (Black Laminate, Single)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005W8NEXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vQdWzbHMM7SPY

Yamaha YST-FSW150BL Advanced YST II Down-Firing Active Subwoofer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V7H1FO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sRdWzbF490Q0Y

Yamaha YST-FSW050BL2 Subwoofer (Each, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DO5W12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VRdWzbZ31NCB4

Dayton Audio SUB-1000L 10" 100 Watt Low-Profile Powered Subwoofer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOZ1WHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ESdWzbCXHKRTQ

As for the Orbs, give them a call or email to talk pricing. Customer service is great and they will set you up with the best price and free shipping.

u/mlph · 2 pointsr/audiophile

BIC F12 is probably your best bet in that price range. If you want to spend a little more the Klipsch RW12 are very good.

u/miccatron · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For a home theater, the order of importance is approximately as follows:

  1. Front speakers
  2. Subwoofer
  3. Center channel speaker
  4. Surround speakers
  5. Additional surround and effects speakers

    If you are looking for a subwoofer recommendation and want to keep a common brand for your speakers:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4MSXZ8
u/Zeckvard · 1 pointr/hometheater

OK, to sum up what I've learned today. To set up a basic 2.1 set up I need:

u/popkemobi · 1 pointr/hometheater

Please forgive my ignorance, this is not my area of expertise. Is it a better practice to purchase the speakers separately like you mentioned or buy a set of branded speakers that all come in one package. For instance like so?
edit 1 If I increase the budget with £100 would it be better to get this sub

u/TVodhanel · 1 pointr/hometheater

At any given price point Hsu and rythmik will usually offer the very best cost/performance ratios. Also, the Klipsch 15 (https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-115SW-Subwoofer/dp/B00NT3TANI ) can be found at $499 oaccasionally, that is a very good value too. Svs doesn't even come close to providing the same performance as hsu/rythmik. The $850 hsu vtf-3 would perform similar to the $1900 pb4000 for example.

1)the upgrade would be very audible. Not only with movie sound effects---sounding much deeper and more powerful---but just overall accuracy and sound quality too.

2)It is easiest to integrate two identical subs but two different models can also work well. In this case, however, using the polk 505 with the rythmik or hsu...it will likely do more harm than good(destructive cancellations).

3) http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2mk5.html That is the best $600 sub available and it would sound very similar to the rythmik lvx12.

u/Korole · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hello, I've purchased the Presonus Eris E4.5 for my computer speakers and wanted to add on a subwoofer for a 2.1 setup. I'm debating between the
-Dayton Audio SUB-1200 vs the
-Martin Logan Dynamo 300 and finally the
-Yamaha YST-SW012.


The primary usage is for music in a small room approximately 7'x14' (dorm). I plan to place the sub near my desk. Is there anything else that I need to know about how to hook up my speakers and a subwoofer to my computer? Are there any other suggestions? I'd like to keep the price under $150.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but would I have to connect a 3.5mm to RCA from the computer to the sub, then speaker wire to RCA from sub to active speaker, and then speaker wire from active speaker to passive speaker?

u/insojust · 1 pointr/edmproduction

I've seen some solid subs for less than $200. JBL speakers have been really good in my experience. I've also heard good things about this subwoofer.

u/KelCougarMellen · 1 pointr/AVexchange

I have an Earthquake FF 6.5 I could part with. Has one minor cosmetic imperfection. Very small and great for desk setups but punches way above it's weight class.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00829T0AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8snvDbJ1NVQZ4

u/einmalistkeinmal · 1 pointr/audiophile

My setup: PC (via usb) -> JDS Labs ODAC -> Tubemagic A1 -> Centrance Masterclass 2504 Speakers

Looking for a powered/active sub for $100-500.

I'm looking for one that could be said to be warm, and milky smooth. I don't listen to much electronic - this would be to accentuate Miles Davis' bass step and things like that.

I've seen links to the Polk Audio PSW110 10-Inch, but I would like the low end freq. to be in the 20 Hz range and it would be great if I could get more continuous power - I'm under the impression you want RMS 225w+. Thanks for your recommendations. Basically, should I go with those polks, or what is the next step up?

Here's what those Polks are packing:

Frequency Response: 35Hz - 250Hz

Peak power handling: 200 watts (100 watts continuous)

u/mxmadman374 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Complete novice here, and I'm looking for suggestions and/or reassurance before I pull the trigger on a 2.1 desk setup. I'll try not to waste your time, so here is what I'm working with:

u/Diem-Robo · 1 pointr/audiophile

What's the difference between the Klipsch R-120SW and its smaller version, the R-100SW? Especially since the 12-inch 120SW is over a hundred dollars more than the 10-inch 100SW.

u/WhirlwindMonk · 1 pointr/hometheater

I'm more concerned with movies than music, plus I don't have a ton of room. After a bit of searching with your suggestions, I found these bookshelf speakers and this sub. Between the speakers and the receiver, it'll put me at $700, right in my budget.

Are there any cables or wires I need to pick up, or do speakers usually come with what is needed?

u/asplodzor · 1 pointr/audio

We need more information about your current computer speakers. What are they?

That subwoofer has bare speaker wire with a strange connector. You could cut the connector off and strip the wires. Use wire strippers if you have them. Otherwise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auMRad-8ssE

You will need an amplifier to power the sub. What kind of amp you need, and how you connect everything together, depends on what kind of speakers you already have connected to the computer.

Edit: Here's an example of a sub amp: https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-WS1005-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00VF5TY7E I know nothing about this particular one, and am not recommending it, just providing it as an example.

u/revjeremyduncan · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Oh, my! So many options! It seems like I can rule out the Emotiva, at least. Really, the only reason I was considering that was to match my speakers. Anything black is close enough, though. Haha.

EDIT: How do you think the 12" Def Tech ProSub 800 would stack up against the Rythmik or HSU 12"s?

u/DushiPunda · 1 pointr/hometheater

Thanks for the input. Just curious though (note: i don't know too much about any of this)...how would a 10" 300 watt sub (PB1000) have more output than a 12" 300 watt sub (SB-1000)? The only thing I'm thinking is that you meant the PB2000?

u/1D6 · 1 pointr/hometheater

does your current setup support dual subs? If so, the cheapest option is to buy a second ARS300, if you can find a decent used one. that might not be easy to do though. In that case, you can look at stepping up to a 15" sub. about as cheap as I'd go is the Klipsch Reference R-115SW. it's got a 500W amp, so you should notice some improvement, however also note it is forward-firing, unlike your downward firing ARS300. not sure if this will make a difference in your room.

EDIT - I just looked at the spec sheet, evidently it only has a 400W amp. You should still hear noticeable improvement.

u/joe603 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Onkyo 9.2 THX Dolby Atmos, DTX
5.1.4 configuration or 7.1.2 $499

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2GA8510524&cm_re=9.2_receiver-_-9SIA2GA8510524-_-Product

Below for 5.1.4

Micca MB42X-C Center Channel - $70

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-COVO-S-Compact-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00N8265I8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540843764&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=micca+mini+speakers

Micca bookshelf speakers pair 2x $120 for 4 Bookshelf speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-C-Channel-Speaker-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540844054&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=micca%2Bcenter%2Bchannel%2Bspeaker&th=1

Micca COVO-S Mini 2-Way Bookshelf Speakers - Hung from ceilling used as Atmos speakers 2x

$90 for 4 speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-COVO-S-Compact-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00N8265I8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540843764&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=micca+mini+speakers

Speaker Mounts for Celling Atmos speakers

Micca Subwoofer $129.00

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer-MS10/dp/B07B4MSXZ8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540844226&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=micca+subwoofer&psc=1

That totals $908 leaves you some extra for banana plugs, wiring, mounts etc. which can be had for cheap on Amazon

  • Some of the speaker mount kits come with 4-6 mounts which could be used for all the speakers run $10-$30

  • If you don't get a 9.2 Atmos you could shave about $250 off the cost and just get a 5.1 Receiver that decodes just up to Dolby True HD, and DTS - MA which would be plenty for a novice

  • The 9.2 Receiver would allow him to add another Sub or drive better speakers later if he plans to upgrade
u/shaniquaniminiquani · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'd be pretty much solely using it on pc, but I wouldn't see how pc to phone would make much difference since they both have a headphone jack.

Also yeah I'd get a subwoofer then, do you normally buy one or two of them? I was assuming two, but I saw They sell them individually so I thought I'd ask.

Lastly I still would need advice on what amp to get, since the speakers aren't all that expensive I can probably afford a decent one. Also I'm assuming the amps purpose is to let you control the sound frequency of the speakers or well volume. Would any amp work on any speaker then?

u/Only4TheShow · 1 pointr/hometheater
u/brazen8 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I would suggest adding a subwoofer to you're list. Bookshelves are great but none of them will get that low. I have this one and it does a great job.

Definitive Technology ProSub 800 120v Speaker (Single, Black) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000TDEM5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a8M6BbF4BF82X

u/NavdeepSinghThind · 1 pointr/Soundbars

SW100 10" is 17,795 INR rn on amazon.in (250 USD direct equivalent). I have high hopes from this guy though. Please leave your impressions if you've heard it's bass signature. https://www.amazon.in/dp/B06XRB1JZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4hR6Cb9GM61WS
Now I don't see any LPF crossover at the back of it. Will it matter much?

u/polypeptide147 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

> The f12 is 34k and that's almost my entire soundbar+sub combo budget!

Bass is the hardest thing to accurately reproduce, so subwoofers are expensive. That BIC is a budget subwoofer. They don't really start getting good until you get up to SVS

u/transam617 · 1 pointr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

Sounds like the 305's would fit the bill then, you may have to hang them, but for the dollar they are very good.

>Years ago, people used to be all about tweeters. Is it worthwhile having one?

Er, the tweeters on the LSR's are very good, Im not sure if you are confusing the waveguide tops on the speakers with a traditional dome tweeter. Both serve the same purpose, but the waveguide just distributes sound better than domes do at this pricepoint.

The only thing you may want with these speakers is a separate subwoofer. If you want to get one, it'll be a tight fit in the $600CDN you have to spend on the audio stuff.

This would probably work, but would put you $50 over:

https://www.amazon.ca/America-12-Inch-430-Watt-Down-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B0000Y2WYS

Good response down to about 30Hz, which should compliment the LSR's nicely in your small room though if you can spend a bit more, the F12's are a bit better:

https://www.amazon.ca/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/

u/wdouglass · 1 pointr/audiophile

A real problem is that that system only goes down to 35 hz. A true HT subwoofer should get down into the 20s.

For instance, here's a cheapy HT sub with the same size driver
https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-PSW-8-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B002AT94HE/ref=sr_1_26?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500907284&sr=1-26&keywords=8+inch+subwoofer (note, i don't recommend acutally buying this thing)

It apparently goes down to 26 hz, which is a bit more reasonable. a bigger sub (12") like the Outlaw Ultra-X12 or the SVS SB2000 can get down into the teens.

A low frequency response is what makes a subwoofer a subwoofer, and not just a speaker with a low-pass filter.

u/zaczolf · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile
u/mpelleg459 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I can't speak to the headphones, but it looks like you already have a pretty nice system, so replacing anything in the $500 price range is probably going to be an incrimental improvement or a matter of taste. I'm assuming you are interested in music listening and not in adding speakers to go toward a home theater set up, so I would add a subwoofer to fill in the low end and take some strain off woofer and your amp. If your priority is music, I would go with a sealed sub, but a ported will give you much greater output, but take up more space in your room. It looks like SVS sells via amazon, so hopefully, you get their whole customer bill of rights even if you don't order from them. Also, of course what sub you get depends largely on your room and preferences, but for whatever its worth the Merlin tool on SVS's website, matches your speakers with the SB200 or PB2000.
http://www.amazon.com/SVS-SB2000-500-watt-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00IE5MOUM/ref=sr_1_312?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1419356757&sr=1-312

http://www.amazon.com/SVS-SB1000-12-inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00AF88C0M/ref=sr_1_463?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1419356997&sr=1-463

http://www.amazon.com/SVS-PB1000-10-inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00AF88BRG/ref=sr_1_464?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1419356997&sr=1-464

u/irishexpatriate · 1 pointr/hometheater

i've got a 1 year old kiddo so a front facing sub scares me. would the bic v1220 be a good alternative or would you suggest a different down firing sub under 250-ish?

u/Cybersonic · 1 pointr/audiophile

I currently have Simple Audio Listens and I'm looking for a subwoofer to pair with them. This sub will be used for desktop use under my desk and my budget is around $90

Currently I'm looking at a Yamaha 8' and a Dayton 8'.

I've also been looking around ebay for used products but I thought I would come here first to find what is good then go back to ebay.

u/TheGreat-Zarquon · 1 pointr/realdubstep
u/cybrjt · 1 pointr/audiophile

The Yamaha 10” box sub works great with some klipsch promedia ultra satellites I have going to a receiver, instead of the original klipsch with system amp. Sounds great.

Here’s the link to the one I picked up:


Yamaha 10" 100W Powered Subwoofer - Black (NS-SW100BL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRB1JZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.TxVDb0GHDKG9

u/DrMussintouchit · 1 pointr/hometheater

So you need a seperate subwoofer amplifier like this

What kind of sub is it? Honestly you would be better off just buuying a new subwoofer with LFE in.

u/EnderDc · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Wirecutter recommends as a flat-choice the 6" tall Dayton 1000L. The speaker itself is 10".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOZ1WHY?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAJIZAAAAAFEIku8AAAAAVwhB9A

u/Hardcorex · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yes I would be building a cabinet, and well my brother bought this Subwoofer and although it sounds nice, it does not have nearly the chest thumping bass I was looking for. I had two three-way units that had nearly the same feel, just didn't shake the house as much.

Could this have been because of the down-firing and small box?

I figured I could get a lower wattage amp with the pro-woofer and get better sound due to a 10 decibel higher sensitivity.

u/MistaHiggins · 1 pointr/hometheater

There are a lot of option between polk and SVS!

I'm not very well versed on audio outlets from the Netherlands, but it does look like the Klipsch SW115 subwoofer is available on Amazon.de for only €318.00 link. That's a crazy deal considering the same model is currently being sold for $800USD in the states. Link. You really won't find anything else that comes anywhere close for only €318.

My personal recommendation would be to buy the receiver + sub immediately and then replace your main speakers as you can but you can honestly do much better than Polk with your budget.

Stage 1: €668

  • Denon X1500H - €340

  • Klipsch SW115 - €318

    Stage 2: With your original budget of €1500 - you have €832 left after buying the above receiver and sub.

  • Option 1 Towers: Jamo C95 x2 and Jamo C9 Center. = €758

  • Option 2 Bookshelves: Jamo C93 pair and Jamo C9 Center. = €513


    You’re way under €1500 budget either option you go, and there’s a monumental difference between the Polk signature series and the Jamo concert series. The Jamo will be better in about every way. Use your existing speakers as surrounds with the Jamo at first and upgrade down the road if you want, they do not have to match your main speakers.
u/techfish · 1 pointr/audiophile

Buy used, take that $1200 and look on your local craigslist, ebay, and Audiogon. I think a good break down for towers + sub would be $850 and $350, respectively. The Klipsch RW12D has been getting pretty good praise lately. Klipsch RW12D You can find it for $300-$350 and check out this thread that compares it to the BIC F12.

u/Agentlongwood · 1 pointr/hometheater

Awesome, thanks for the input and the links. I don't think that the floor will be an issue. It's a 1 story house with a concrete slab and tile floor, and no basement. So I think I'm safe in that regard. It's just the interior wall that separates the living space from the bedroom is only studs and drywall, no insulation :( Most of the other interior walls are plaster, but that one was replaced during a remodel.


I'm definitely eyeing the F12 pretty heavily. It seems like a general consensus that it's a good all around sub for it's price bracket. Because of how odd shaped my "living room" is, I was also considering something like the Dayton SUB-1000L. My couch is backed up against 4ish foot tall bar that separates the kitchen from living room. I could slip that sucker between the bar and couch, so it's right behind me.

u/papasaurusrex · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I just moved from the Klipsch Promedia 2.1's after they died. I couldn't find anything that I liked so I built my own 2.1, and wow does it sound way better than the Klipsch.

u/sorany9 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers

Micca 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer

​

Right now, I have 3.5mm from my green line out to an amp then to the speakers.

I also have another 3.5mm from my orange center/sub out to my red RCA connection on the sub.

u/DomSeven13 · 1 pointr/audiophile

My current set up is

Turntabe -> Pre-Amp -> SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amp -> Fluance AV5 Bookshelf Speakers.

I would like to add this sub

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AT94HE?redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_g23_i2_r

to the system, and was wondering if it would work between my amp and speakers. Since it is powered, is it not running off my amp? Would I just run the wires from my amp, into the sub, then out from sub to speakers?

Thanks!

u/smackdaddies · 0 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I would go with a 3.1. A left, center, right and subwoofer

Spend $270 or less on a 5.1 receiver from accessories for less

ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers, & Debut 2.0 C6.2 Center for $550

Martin Logan Dynamo500 for $180 (renewed, at amazon) https://www.amazon.com/MartinLogan-DYN500D-Dynamo-Subwoofer-Renewed/dp/B07NQQQRDZ

u/Inferno13 · 0 pointsr/hometheater

After doing further research on your setup there, here is what I would recommend.

Screen: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00366MBAC/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00366MBAC&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwpuresimula-20

Projector: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-VPL-HW40ES-projector-widescreen/dp/B00JRNQNG6

Receiver: http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-X2100W-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00KLC5YPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411789167&sr=1-1&keywords=avr-x2100

Center Channel: http://www.amazon.com/Definitive-Technology-ProCenter-Compact-Speaker/dp/B000TDCJHK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411789219&sr=1-6&keywords=definitive+technology

Front Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/Definitive-Technology-BP-8020ST-Bipolar-Subwoofer/dp/B00422L3C6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411789254&sr=1-1&keywords=definitive+technology+8020

Rear Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/Definitive-Technology-ProMonitor-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B000V41XII/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411789297&sr=1-1&keywords=definitive+technology+1000

BluRay: Ps4

Rear Speaker Mount: http://www.amazon.com/Definitive-Technology-Pro-Mount-90-Black/dp/B001UAFJ0K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411789338&sr=1-1&keywords=definitive+technology+mount

Subwoofer (optional): http://www.amazon.com/Definitive-Technology-ProSub-Speaker-Single/dp/B000TDEM5C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411789390&sr=1-3&keywords=definitive+technology+800

Total roughly: $5,500

This is going to be a way better setup in my opinion. Now the reasoning behind why I chose this all.

Screen: Do you really want 135"? you will distort the picture more and it will not be as clear. The reason why i chose a grey screen is because of the windows behind your screen location. The grey will not reflect as much natural light giving you a better picture IMO.

Projector: Personal favorite, If you would like the Epson has good quality as well I physically have not seen it though.

Receiver: This receiver is going to preform way better with the speakers I have picked out. Denon specializes in movie like sound giving better lows and a cleaner sound in all.

Center, Front, Rear Speakers: The reason I chose Definitive Technology is because they have great sound quality and are meant for a more movie like atmosphere. The fronts I have picked out are their small tower speakers, If you want to step up you can do the 8040's which are a little larger or the 8060's which will probably be the largest I would recommend for your home theater location.

Speaker mounts, If you want to mount the rear speakers, those will work with the rear speakers.

Subwoofer: Now the reason why I say optional on this is because the tower speakers have two sub-woofers built into each. And they are fairly noticeable with the lows. If you want more lows I recommended a subwoofer up there for you.

I hope you enjoy the system I picked out, and it is right in the middle of your price range as well leaving you room for speaker wire and other things. If you want to physically hear these go to any Best Buy Magnolia store and just ask them, they should be set up at all locations.

u/notaneggspert · 0 pointsr/hometheater

No worries my post is all over the place and was edited at least 5 times. Went from asking what I thought was an innocent question to quickly learning a lot of do's-don'ts.

Any thoughts on this amp? Covers optical, L/R, and Coaxial. It's 50 watts which is more than the 2x15W of this cheaper amp think 2x15 is plenty especially if I got this powered sub?

I think the more expensive amp would would work better with the sub, speakers and tv but I'm just starting to know what I'm talking about.