(Part 2) Best hvac equipment according to redditors
We found 108 Reddit comments discussing the best hvac equipment. We ranked the 29 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
The terminals dont matter.
35+4 uf 440v
27L18 - 35 + 4 uf MFD 440 Volt VAC - GE Round Dual Run Capacitor Upgrade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVV99OW/
Yup! That silver thing in your first picture is a Capacitor. It says right on it 35+5. Just need a replacement and MAKE SURE YOU GET EVERYTHING hooked back the way it was. There are three terminals, Herm (Compressor), Fan, and C (common).
Looks to me that Yellow is Herm, Red and Purple is C, and the Brown is your fan.
You can find a replacement at an HVAC parts store or just ship pne off amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Z97F9796-Volt-Oval-Capacitor-Upgrade/dp/B00EUIP1E8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1405890964&sr=8-12&keywords=GE+Genteq+35+5%27
That helps. First, it would be remiss of me not to tell you to be really, really careful with those capacitors. You've already replaced one so you're confident and competent enough to break into your appliances so that's good, but that big bastard can kill you. I don't mean to sound condescending or hyperbolic, but caps are nasty devices. I toy around with tube amps and I've been zapped by some of the smaller ones and it THAT hurt. I can't even imagine what one of these things would do, if it didn't kill you that is. Just double triple check that the breaker is off whenever you tear into this thing in addition to taking caution around the caps.
End disclaimer.
When you replaced the cap, did it have all the same characteristics and did you make absolutely sure you put all the wires on the proper terminals? The two main specs to look at will be voltage and capacitance but tolerance and environmental requirements should be similar. If everything you've already done is in order, it sounds like you probably just need a new motor which unfortunately looks to be kinda pricey for that model. The internet tells me the motor model is MOT10478 but you might be able to find a more generic part if you dig around a bit. Either way, $2xx is far cheaper than a new condenser or the cost of a motor plus professional installation.
I'd like to tell you a better way to make doubly sure your motor is actually the problem, but I can't think of a way to do so safely. It sounds like it's the motor, but I'm damn sure not going to be responsible for telling you to spend $250+ to ultimately get nothing. To get at it you'll have to remove the hex bolts along the outside top edge of the condenser shroud so you can pull the top off and get at the motor. I WILL say that there might be a chance that there's a problem with the controller or the voltage going to the fan. You could probably hook a volt meter up to the input leads of the fan (the ones that go from the starter cap to the fan) and make sure it's getting 240 but again, if you're not comfortable around a digital multi meter or aren't familiar with electrical safety I'd advise you not to try it while the machine is on. Best of luck.
Edit: This is a pretty legit walk through for motor replacement. If you do go through with it, make sure the wires are all tucked away before you test. No sense in slicing your fresh work.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Change-Ac-Condenser-Fan-Motor/
Firstly, welcome to the club!
You're absolutely right - buy the accessories and consumables elsewhere. FSL don't make these and are having to mark up things due to providing a warranty and service.
Here's a good quiet fan that will do the job and is a legit 200CFM (a lot of them lie about capacity).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVTGB4C/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It does come with basic optics which will be fine until you need to replace them in a few years.
You'll need a bucket and some tubing for the distilled water (that's what the pump is for). You'll also need an air assist which is nothing more than a airbursh or large aquarium pump.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDKRYC6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06XDKRYC6&pd_rd_w=6o93T&pf_rd_p=10ebaf99-73de-4f5d-a994-e7f5fc52f86f&pd_rd_wg=o8iAi&pf_rd_r=WF7KZ4A648958FA1NRB9&pd_rd_r=0180bd8d-2a82-11e9-888f-47f1b1d850e8
That's it really apart from materials to laser.
Good luck and don't forget to hear over to the unofficial full spectrum laser forums for more specific help.
Forgot to mention. This is the bottom floor of a two-story house, so no access without tearing through the ceiling. I have remote control outlets, which could work for turning it on and off.
Searching through amazon is a mixed bag, exhaust fans turn up a few decent results like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ALCRDI/ref=twister_B06XWPJ28N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1, but the majority are bathroom exhaust fans that vent out the side, or booster fans that replace the ductwork i can't reach.
Is there a more specific term for what i'm searching for?
Thank you! Very helpful. Does one of those heat recovery devices serve the whole house by itself? Is the humidistat built in or a separate product with these? Also, the airflow on those you linked to seems very low compared to the extractors I've been looking at (l/s) - why is that?
Do either of these look any good?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KAIR-RECOVERY-SILENT-EXTRACTOR-ANTI-CONDENSATION/dp/B004VW3RGW/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1539254635&sr=1-2&keywords=energy+recovery+ventilation
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OQH8EVK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00OQH8EVK&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=8e5be0e3-b258-4b06-8b6e-695b24f935a4&pf_rd_r=7XT6S03YRJ05GNRK6EAX&pd_rd_wg=xJQfI&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=08M5V&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=a561de1c-cd42-11e8-a2f0-1db2f7b7d021
Our house is 80+ years old. Cold outer walls. Terraced, on a slope so property adjoining one side is higher ground level than ours.
Sorry for all the questions, total novice here!
I have Y1, G, Rc and C wires coming from the A/C unit, and W1 and Rh coming from our boiler. This was causing our TACO box / heat pump to continuously click/engage in the winter, I believe because the Nest thermostat wasn't getting power from the AC unit and was constantly turning on our TACO unit / pump in order to draw some power. I installed a RIBUC1 Relay in line with the TACO box and pigtailed the Rh from the boiler and C from the A/C, then plugged into the C slot at the thermostat, and it solved our issues. Not sure if that would be helpful, but wanted to share our fix just in case!
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/164759/yet-another-nest-install-nightmare
https://www.amazon.com/Functional-Devices-RIB-U1C-Relay-Box/dp/B006YVL93Q
Search Dayton blowers on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-1TDN6-Permanent-Capacitor-Specialty/dp/B00DSMEPPI/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=dayton+blower&qid=1555044793&s=gateway&sr=8-13
They have 50cfm up to many hundreds.
Build a 20" box and put a Merv13 or higher furnace filter on it.
Thermostat is good and it's an electric system. I do have a multimeter and I'm able to get up in there but I'm not sure what to probe. This is the switch relay I would be working with here.