(Part 2) Best hydraulic equipment according to redditors

I haven't heard of a T3, who makes it? One of the best diffusers I've seen is the Xtava Black Orchid for $15. I got a cheap pipe coupler here to adapt it to a Devacurl dryer.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTA-POWER-PUMP-TON-20308/dp/B002GQH2XO

Yep! You can tell because it has the valve at either end and a handful of bleeders. It looks like a watts one, though i cant find a model that looks exactly like it. It's likely old and could not be working proper, especially if the system sat for a long time without running.

You show nothing for scale, but I think it is a Hydraulic quick disconnect cap

http://www.amazonsupply.com/dixon-31-200dc-hydraulic-quick-connect-coupling/dp/B00835VYIQ

You'll want NPT threads. This is what I used:

MettleAir BQE-N02-1PK Pneumatic Quick Exhaust/Dump Valve, Nickel Plated Brass, 1/4" NPT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ECJR8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hDo24kS5gUQgy

Not really on the pump... They are reasonably priced, around $100 for a generic one on Amazon... The valve is internal, and works automatically based on internal pressure as resistance rises. I'm not sure there would be an external add on, but if there were, it would almost certainly be more expensive than a replacement pump.

I bought my 5x12 cylinder on Amazon for $155 Check this one out:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CWJSUO/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

It takes a lot of looking, searching and sorting through things, but you can find deals and keep costs down.

I wanted to go bigger on the cylinder, but ultimately decided that from what I've read & saw on various youtube videos that a 5" 28 ton will do everything I want so pulled the trigger on that cylinder & hopefully my build will start this weekend or next!

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/HP-Electric-Hydraulic-Pressure-Pump/dp/B006ZBBY1C

Googling "electric hydraulic press pump" brings up halfway decent results.

Similar ones are used on 2 and 4 post lifts for cars. Button runs the motor, lever releases pressure.


http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/40656-Upgrading-a-Hydraulic-Press-with-a-Motorized-Pump

Some other ideas are in that link, mainly the use of an air over hydraulic jack in the press.

Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

Thanks for the reply.

So, just to get this straight, I should get a trap, male trap adapter, and no-hub coupling (only including links as examples, i'll go to the hardware store to get the pieces). Then I saw off the wall side and attach the whole thing.

May be a dumb question, but I assume there is no water pressure on the wall side of the pipe? meaning I can saw it off without getting the room flooded?

It even has a handle. 20 lb CO2 Tank - New Aluminum Cylinder with CGA320 Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ICOKQMI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y837wbWVZ4QXJ

At some point in life, you'll eventually learn that cutting corners costs more in the long run. Buy quality gear so it won't have to be replaced again.

https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-554-144-Fresh-Gallons-Minute/dp/B00C1M6B1C/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9VF6Q/

https://www.amazon.com/3-Speed-Frame-Direct-Furnace-EM3585/dp/B00P9V5RXU and this if you can't reuse the framehttps://www.amazon.com/Fasco-FM55-Bracket-Diameter-Motors/dp/B008HQ71RY

It looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Two-way-Universal-Check-Valve/dp/B004Q0GOJQ

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Steel-Hydraulic-Bench-Plates/dp/B003VZYA2K

if this isn't what you mean by hydraulic press.. then everyone else is as confused as i am..

wrenches wouldnt matter when the fastenings are thumb tightening with diamond cut for grip. the correct question is no gloves, but it wouldn't have mattered. I'm never gonna have to debug like that ever again so it won't matter lol. these are the hoses i was using. http://smile.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-29986-Compact-Valve/dp/B0036UK0UQ/ref=sr_1_34?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1419985326&sr=1-34&keywords=yellow+jacket. When the ball valve isn't worn out it should hold vacuum well enough to seal the system with directly and i haven't had issues with them wearing out yet. they're fairly easy to put on and off, but a couple of the ones i have weren't being so easy. The part that I spent the most time fucking with was one of these. you'll see theres a female end at the opposite end of the valve and this is what did most of the damage, because if you don't hold it up perfectly straight then the "nut" on the end of the hose won't spin easily or at all due to metal on metal friction. Replacing these things with individual valves and my own T adapters in a couple locations (still using them in others) where i should have been using a different design anyways cause I needed more valves and now it's fine. I'm running a modified Bhogart extractor design with some additions to allow for manifold bypass for direct butane injection and a bunch of other valve additions to allow me to disassemble the system and open sections of it while keeping the rest of it at vacuum, before then being able to pull it to vacuum again.

Hydrostatic test pump, or part of one, or an old fashioned one. I'm no expert, but I dated a plumber. Basically finds leaks in a system by adding pressure.

Here's a modern one on amazon, to help with key words

You have to use copper flare fittings per the NFPA codes. Soldered connections are not acceptable. In a fire the solder will melt out and the joint will fail. Brazing is acceptable if you have the proper tools.

Flare fittings are kind of a pain to seal but not rocket science. You will want to pressure test the lines before running propane. This is done at a higher pressure than the appliances can handle so you have to disconnect them. Home Depot carries these, I'd guess any good hardware store would. You can use soapy water to find the leaks.

Personally I'd suggest pre-made listed rubber hoses. They come with the proper flare fitting ends crimped on. It will probably be cheaper than buying a flare tool and all the fittings and copper. Id do that if I did my truck again.