Best industrial joint sealants according to redditors

Pooky fixes all cheap and easy Red Devil 0841DX F Seal 181 Water Based Duct Sealant, 1 gallon, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I7JVUO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pIbKAb1PJJAA8 Be prepared for the mess

I've put traction pads on catchsurfs. I also emailed Catchsurf to see if they had any recommendations:

1. Make sure the board is dry and there is no wax underneath. Foamies are really fucking tedious to remove wax off of. Use a blowdryer on max heat, a lot of paper towels and a whole lot of patience to get all the wax and water out. Prep the area by cleaning it well with rubbing alcohol.
   
   
2. Use 3M 5200 Marine Layer Adhesive. Slather that shit on both the board and the track pad. Be really really generous with the adhesive. make sure you make a watertight seal on the perimeter of the track pad so NO WATER CAN GET IN. follow the instructions on the adhesive to the T.
   
   
3. when you attach the pad to the board, put a shit ton of weights and heavy stuff on and let set for at least a day. Make sure the weights are evenly distributed. In the past, i've made the mistake of putting a disproportionate weight on the kicktail and it made my traction pad slide out of place and i had to tear it up and do it all over again. All in all i got about 8-9 months of use until leaks started getting in when i applied the pad perfectly. You'd probably have to replace the pad after.
   
   I highly suggest you take advantage of Evo's 60% off sale they have today. They have traction pads as low as $5. buy a shit ton as a replacement for when the traction pad finally falls off the foamie

A good marine adhesive might do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/3M-05220-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0000AY6CA

But the other poster is probably correct, replacing the seal is going to be the best long term fix.

Wrap his present in duct tape, then put a nice base of spray foam in the bottom of a box. Put in present, then spray foam the rest. Close it up and duct tape it again.

I recommend a latex spray foam for easy cleanup because you will get it on your hands.

http://www.amazon.com/18826-Latex-Sealant-12-Ounce-Aerosol/dp/B0006B685O

If you need it to hold up through a war and be cheap, Vinyl is the way to go. Some of it looks pretty good and it will outlive your grandchildren. My father has multiple large dogs and needed something that could endure their running and playing. It definitely does.

If you need it to hold up through a war and can spend more, this is the most amazing thing I've ever had on my floor. Multiple people, including real estate agents, can't believe it's not wood. Tile costs more to install, and there's grout to worry about and seal but ... just wow. The trick to making tile look like wood is buy a tile that comes in very long pieces, like wood would. (See what I did there?) and use a grout that closely matches the selected tile.

When I did have laminate I used ClicSeal in the kitchen. I can tell you with no reservations that it held up to every spill that got onto it, no questions. I imagine you could use ClicSeal with any laminate flooring to keep moisture from getting into the joints and causing swelling. I only wish I'd used it throughout. I don't recall how much is added to the install or what it cost.

As for brands, I'd just shop primarily by appearance. How much like real wood do you want it to look? Is a hand-scraped texture important to you? It was to me. I'd also look for a thicker board and don't skimp on the underlayment. You don't want it to sound hollow when you walk on it.

Sorry about the delay, things have been busy. Here's a link for the plugs we use. https://skatesus.com/product/carbon-filler-plugs/ My daughter has edea skates, but I don't see any reason why these wouldn't work in any other brand. Here is the epoxy that we've used. 3M 05220 Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 Fast Cure, 3 oz. / White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY6CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9MDmDbA24X9PK We've been able to get it at the local hardware store, but your mileage may very on that. Good skating!

Those ducts look like they were masticed which is perfect. This was the product I was talking about: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

One side is sticky, but being out and exposed to the elements might take its toll.

My suggestion is this, I warn it will take some work but it will be very worth it, and not that expensive while yeilding the best r-value bang for buck:

Get some foam board adhesive: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

And get some sheets of foam board: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kingspan-Insulation-Common-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-Feet-R-10-Unfaced-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-Insulation/999972968

Your outside layer of foam board should be this: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/johns-manville-foil-faced-polyiso-foam-insulation-4-x-8/w-n5075/p-1444438921381.htm

To start you should verify 100% that those duct joints are masticed good, and I mean good, all the joints should be full of it and no holes, no pinholes even. if not get this: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Polymerics-Mastic-Sealant-0-50-Gallon/dp/B0085UZBE2

Once they are 100% sealed you can start. IF you want layers of foam board (more r-value the better) the best thing you can do is use an unfaced foam board for your layers. Your outer layer should be the foil faced foam board. To attach your foam board to your ducts use the duct adhesive, you MUST use this specifically, other adhesives can degrade and "eat away" the foam and eventually the adhesive will fail and it will fall off. Obviously you will need to cut the foam board to spec to fit on the ducting. USe the adhesive to attach it to the ductwork, foil face out. You will then want to cover the seams with silicon or foil faced duct work tape, not duck tape. IF you want additional security for them to hold and not fall off or fly off with wind you can use a metal band strap. or self tapping screws with large zinc washers

metal duct tape: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=speed+tape&qid=1551224134&s=gateway&sr=8-6

metal strapping: https://www.amazon.com/DIVERSITECH-710-001-Galvanized-Metallic-Strap/dp/B00CD6WON0/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-8

metal strapping tension locks: https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Triglides-Webbing-Strapping-Adjustor/dp/B01JG09244/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-17


self tapping screws (need to be long enough to go through foam AND the metal duct work): https://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling-Plated-Finish-Undercut-Phillips/dp/B00GYK2S7I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3+inch+self+tapping+screws&qid=1551224214&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Now since its outside the air inside will eventually still change to the outside temperature, but not as fast and less bleed off of temperature in the ductwork due to outside ambient temperature making the ductwork sheathing the same temperature.

If you ever really really need something to glue up and be water-tight.... the only real answer is 5200.

That stuff is the stickiest of the sticky. Stays flexible.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-5200FC-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B01D893GGY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537209975&sr=8-1&keywords=5200

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-Original-Clear-Penetrating-Sealer/dp/B071XB5V6M?th=1

This is the one I believe he's referring to, and what I've seen recommended on IG by either Cremona or Spagnola, can't remember which.