(Part 2) Best lab digital thermometers according to redditors
We found 94 Reddit comments discussing the best lab digital thermometers. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Psychrometric slide rule. It's a slide rule to calculate relative humidity (RH).
Example here
Still available for sale
Those dial thermometers are notoriously inaccurate. I fix appliances and have been in many a house where they say their oven is too hot or not hot enough and its just one of those dial thermostats that's messed up. I use a multimeter however you can get something like this if you really want.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-k-type-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Furnace/dp/B00G0PFS4C
There are cheaper versions on eBay or fast tech from China you can get.
Almost all ovens can be calibrated. Ones with digital controls are easier to do so and there should be instructions in your owners manual. Usually the range is 30° in either direction. When you do calibrate your oven you want to have a quick read thermometer in it and run five cycles. Listen for the click of the relay that signifies the control board shutting off the flow of electricity (to the element or ignitor doesn't matter) and record that temp for your first high. Wait for it to click back on and record that temp for your first low. Let the oven cycle 4 more times and record those temps. The first set will be way out of range throw those temps out. All all the lows and add all the highs. Divide each by 4. The difference between the result and the set temp is how such your oven is off. Most ovens cycle 25 or so degrees above or below the set temp. Some whirlpool ovens from the mid 2000's and a few he models kept to within 10 degrees.
All that being said never take the cook time in a recipe as absolute law. There are many other variables such as the temp of the item going into the oven, the oven itself, the temperature of the room around the oven and differences in fat and bone content of different pieces of meat. Get s good probe thermometer you can use to monitor the temp of what you are cooking and remember to calibrate the probe with a glass of ice water.
IR really doesn't work that reliably against reflective surfaces.
Personally I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083SZC6S/ with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHYA8 to read it if I need that answered.
They make other K Type Thermocouples but basically you drop the tip in the bucket and it tells you how hot it is.
I tried IR against various surfaces; the only surface it works great at is is non-reflective. So if you have something behind the banger that won't reflect ... you can get a reading
Do you use any oil at all?
If so, learn about smoke points.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_point
Do you measure (I use a laser-guided thermometer like this: http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT4-Laser-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B0000WUM4C) the heat of the pan as you go along?
It is possible to heat up your pan too much before you toss in your meat.
If you don't know what is what, you could easily make more smoke than you want.
I have never - read: never - made my cooking set off the fire alarm.
There are some folks here who want to tell you that their fire alarms are so close to their stove that they always get an alarm... but I suspect that their crappy setup can't help you learn what you need to do.
Some smoke? OK - that might fit what folks see when they make food that they like. I have no argument with that.
So much that you think there's something wrong?
Take a reasoned look at what you are doing, and proceed accordingly.
Most of the heat would come from the PSU. If you read the link to the Prusa blog, they reached a max of 38C in the enclosed photo tent. With the Lack tables they are keeping the PSU outside. I suspect that you are looking at 30 to 35C without the PSU with the Lack tables which is fine. Much of it will depend on what is the outside temp. I plan to also drill a hole and add a temperature gauge like this one
These are terrible. For snakes, you want to ditch the coloured bulbs & go for ceramic emitters (http://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q) in a porcelain clamp lamp such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Deluxe-Porcelain-8-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQCXM/ attached to a stand such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Stand-Economy/dp/B000HG76B8 (highly recommended as ceramic emitters are a large fire hazard, reaching over 700f) . Exo terra terraniums such as http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Short-Terrarium-12-Inch/dp/B008N9LYJ6 are great for beginner snakes which don't have unusually high humidity requirements (mesh tops found on glass tanks let out lots of humidity compared to e.g. plastic tubs with air holes melted via soldering iron). While the ceramic emitter will raise the ambient temperature, your snake will also want a very warm spot to go to for belly heat to aid digestion, so a heat mat such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm®-Heater-Medium/dp/B0002AQCL4/ attached to a thermostat such as http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is highly recommended. The thermostat is not optional as heat mat's reach over 105f which can be fatal. As for supplementary light in e.g. winter, snakes have no special requirements as compared to other reptiles for uva/uvb, so any desk lamp or room lighting would suffice. As for decoration, snakes don't care. Hides can be made out of cereal boxes, butter containers etc, substrate can be newspapers, shredded tissue paper (not shredded paper as it causes cuts), or you can research more professional substrate for your specific snake (beware the earthy substrate which can cause impactation/death if ingested, also wood chips can harbour mites - simple paper is often better!). As for monitoring humidity/temperature within the tank, the analogue ones suck. I would recommend a digital one such as http://www.amazon.com/Avianweb-Digital-Thermo-Hygrometer-Black/dp/B00U2S6JSC/ - even if 10% out as per reviews, they are better than analogues which are 20-30%+ out and get more inaccurate over time. Finally, not required, but useful is an ir gun such as http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ so that you can get a sense of the surface temperatures around the tank that your snake is crawling across, and to ensure your hot hide is within parameters and not lethally exceeding 105f.
I got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Lollipop-Thermometer-TRACEABLE-Control-Company/dp/B00JX4X6QY/ref=sr_1_15?crid=XGCZ27DJ65L&keywords=traceable+thermometer+calibrated&qid=1569890071&s=gateway&sprefix=traceable+thermom%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-15
It's been reliable and accurate, and I've used it for the last several years with no issues.
I use one like this I like it but I'm sure there are cheaper options out there.
Infrared thermometer.
see for yourself.
buy this http://www.amazon.com/Extech-42500-500-degree-260-degree-Thermometer/dp/B0000WU19S
and point it at your ceiling on a sunny day and see how hot it is in different places. hell, try your walls. you'll see where the heat comes in. studs and rafters are good heat conductors.
if your AC works no harder at all to cool your house at night than in sunlight, then you do not need a radiant barrier.
A few years ago, this digital thermometer was on sale for $45. I grabbed it up, and it has been great.
If I were to do it over again, I would probably buy this thermometer, seems like a pretty good deal at $70.
Any LET will do as its mainly all the same, only difference is company really. Foam comes in 2 ways, Square for the back of the board/around the socket or Round for around the F1 Dark itself. It comes treatred with Bio stuff so no bacteria form with it gets wet. Shop towels are shop towels but They have to be BLUE!!!
Thermal Probes and a Fluke 52 or other temperature monitoring device are a must as software is trash for subzero monitoring
Here is my setup for a rough idea When running for a while and for extra safety i will wrap the Pot in shop towels as well just for the extra insulation.
How does that thermometer compare to one of these?
I think you've sold me on the propane, I was under the impression it was closer to $15 per 5 gallon batch. Any good sources on BIAB bags for 5 gallon batches in a 10 gallon kettle or do most people make their own? The largest size at my LHBS seems like it would max at out ~7lbs of grain.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Atkins-4005I-Thermistor-Instrument-Temperature/dp/B003WZ0J6A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408286058&sr=8-2&keywords=hvac+clamp+thermometer
I ended up picking one of these up used on the cheap. I like it because it's quick and easy to use and I don't have to bother with my meter while checking SH/SC.
The biggest problem I overcame when cooking briskets/all smoking was cooking for internal temp vs. time. Gotta get a good thermometer. I use a scientific one as they are cheap and ISO 9000 accurate.
http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Traceable-Shockproof-Waterproof-Thermometer/dp/B006OCN3PC/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1374271617&sr=1-12&keywords=thermometer
My recommendation for keeping it moist: Fat side up. If your doing a full packer trim, placement is important as the cap will cook faster then the flat (not intuitive). I think it has to do with different muscle types. As others have said, low and slow. My briskets (usually 17 lbs) always go on the night before with rub (most any will work, all seem to be big on Paprika, onion, garlic, and heat/pepper/cayan) and smoke @ 225 for ~ 5 hours then stop with wood and keep the heat anywhere from 12 to 16 MORE hours until internal temp hits 195. This temp is past the breakdown of fibers and helps turn the brisket into something more tender... the same happens with your pork shoulders. A water pan near the heat helps act as a heat sink and will keep moisture in the smoker. Gotta refill every time you open the chamber. The fat will drain over/through the meat and help make a bark that helps keep juices in. Because of this, I don't wrap. The bennie is burnt ends and a moist flat.
A good resource I use is
http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34&sid=a7a86cb518bd9dfef51d76c4395701c2
Multiple edits cuz I cant spell or make a coherent post.
You could always compare your bike temp sensor reading against a temperature probe.
They're pretty cheap to buy:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-469539-Pocket-Digital-Thermometer/dp/B000QHD09K/
Do you have a thermometer you could hold up to the blower? Or, can you buy a cheap one like this?
if you're using it in your home, that has heat in winter--like most homes--either will work fine. it's just a matter of which is more energy efficient and you can check the energy ratings on each particular model.
they tend to give off a fair amount of heat though, so for summer use if it's hot then you might consider an in-room AC with dehumidifier built in, which has a vent to exhaust the warm air and will also cool the room, like this;
https://www.amazon.com/115V-Portable-Conditioner-Remote-Control/dp/B0115XWCHO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498945312&sr=8-2&keywords=lg+in+room+ac+dehumidifier
you can also get an indoor temp/humidity instrument and only turn it on when needed (some devices will cycle on/off by themselves, but I like to see the numbers!) because INDOOR RH is what you are concerned with, not outdoor.
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-RHM15-Mini-Temp-Indicator/dp/B00OZ8WKQA/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498945381&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=extech+indoor+temp+rh