(Part 2) Best laser levels according to redditors

Keeping a straight line is so hard! I just use a laser level & it’s helped a ton. Here’s the link to the one I use:

Johnson Level and Tool 9250 Laser Line Level (Mouse) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C3C0HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_skk1BbKNRZ26D

For hanging your art
https://www.amazon.com/Decker-BDL170-BullsEye-Auto-Leveling-AnglePro/dp/B000IDX1IM

My guess is that the laser that reads the discs is dying/dead and you would need to replace it. The laser itself is about $10 on Amazon and if you feel confident there are a million guides on YouTube on how to do so. You would need to order a new laser and make sure you have the correct screwdrivers (I think you need a tri-wing and a Phillips for a Wii).

I actually picked up a wii that wouldn't read certain discs because I knew I could fix it. After 20 minutes of work I had replaced the laser and the Wii worked great.

Sometimes the laser gets dirty and you might just need to clean it (I picked my Wii off of a smoker). Other times it is just too weak to read certain Wii discs; some like Brawl are dual-layer and need a strong laser to read them. You might be able to test if you laser is just weak if it can read single-layer games (Wii-sports, Gamecube games come to mind).

Either way don't be afraid to get your hands dirty and try and fix it yourself if it isn't reading discs already you can't do much worse.

http://www.harborfreight.com/laser-marker-93242.html
That is the one my friend got.

There is also this one, which may be overkill: http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/149f/?cpg=cj&CJURL=&CJID=2617611#tabs&cpg=cj&ref=&CJURL=

However, I found this on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/As-Seen-On-TV-Straight/dp/B00068J2V4/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396894894&sr=1-2&keywords=laser+line

I got this laser, I just picked one of the stadia rods they recommended, I think it was $50 for 16ft.

The tripod is a little shaky, but it's usually a ways off to keep out of the way anyhow, and the detector is good for an insane distance.

I figure if I use this on 5-6 projects a year, it'll last forever. The first thing I'm going to upgrade is the tripod, when I get some spare cash from another project.

Are you kidding me? That thing is junk. Just by any laser level that has the 3 function mode (cross, vertical, horizontal). Use it elevated a foot or two on tripod and in vertical mode. Perfect line on ball and wall, no need for a mirror.

With this you can also use it around the house on many different projects.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GHA5DA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518970499&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=skil+laser+level&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ku9FLWkxL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Laser-PLS-60523-PLS3-Level-Yellow/dp/B00002259X

Something like that works. I've seen it in action.

could be the metallic part of a target card

You building a lot of decks?

I bought the non laser equipped version of my miter saw and added this $10 laser attachment to the blade. It works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CRE7Q4?vs=1

Would this work for you

Maybe attach a pistol grip on top to make it more like a head?

This is the one I use. I use it a lot on commercial jobs that require a lot of anchors for No-Hub pipe and copper. I'll lay it out on the floor and then transfer my marks to the ceiling.

Sure thing. It all depends on the pitch of the land but if you can find a level-ish spot that works for you, you can do the following:

1. Go to supply store and get a handful (4-6,ish) of landscaping nails like this and some mason twine like this, and a string level like this
   
   
2. Spray-paint the shape where you're planning on it going. Put a nail in the ground on the highest point of the circle and tie an end of the string to it (you can either push the string to the ground or just push the nail all the way in--I'd recommend the prior).
   
   
3. Pull that string out to the other side. Hang the level on the string and pull it taught, have a friend help you to get it to read level and tie it off to a nail (or tall stake, dependent on how much of a pitch we're talking).
   
   
4. Using a tape measure or yard stick, measure the distance from the string to the ground. Theoretically, if you dig that distance down on the high side, it should level to the low side. There are more professional ways to do this but this is the cheapest hack.
   
   
5. Using the string, level, and nails, move earth until you have a level patch of dirt the size of the bed you want. Once you do that you can use stonedust and/or 3/4" stone to make a base for your pavers (or whatever).
   
   
6. All you have to do is bring the string up to a higher level and fill the stone/stonedust up to that point to ensure it's level across. That will get you the base.
   
   What's next?
   
   edits: link and word choice
   

Just finished my kitchen redo with RTA cabinets. We originally were going to go with Ikea (even bought them and had them all in the garage) and then decided to switch to RTA. We found ours from a local seller, who I'm pretty sure just bought them online and resold them. They were pretty much the same as Cabinets To Go.

I was really happy with them. Quality was good, assembly/installation was fine. Seemed sturdier than Ikea.

Ours went together mostly with cam screws. I did put a few extra trim screws through certain sides/places/drawers to make them hold together a bit tighter.

We also ended up painting them, adding our own hardware, and adding our own custom trim, which I think turned out well.

Here are some major general cabinet tips I wish I had known before I started (most apply to all cabinets):

For uppers, screw a level 2x4 to the studs right where you want the bottom of the upper to be, set the upper on the 2x4, have a helper hold it in place then screw it to the studs. Much easier than holding it up there level until you get some screws in.

You need to level the cabinets in multiple directions. Your walls almost certainly aren't straight. Get a laser level like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Compact-Self-Leveling-Cross-Laser-Clamp/dp/B00OZHIFNS/

put it on a table/ladder/flat surface and have it project a horizontal, level line a few inches above the tops of your bottom cabinets. Take a tape measure around to each cabinet and check all 4 corners to get a common distance between cabinet top and laser line. You want to shoot for no more than 1/8 inch variation in heights. Use shims to fix it. This method is 100 times better than a bubble level if you have any distance to span at all.

Along with that, you want your fronts to line up so that when you look down the fronts, they are in a straight line. I'll be honest, I screwed this up quite a bit. I tried to follow the line of my wall, but found out after the fact my wall is horribly crooked. Mine isn't too bad, but the overhang of the counter tops is inconsistent in depth throughout. I don't have awesome tips on how to fix this, other than be patient and use the laser level to try to help line things up.

Order of operations I would take is tear out old cabinets, tear up old floor tile, put in new cabinets, put in new tile. That is the order we went in at least.

Good luck!

+1 for Qbox, that thing has saved my ass more times than I'd like to admit. I'd also recommend an alignment level like the Bosch GPL3. I mostly use mine for arena ground-rigging but it's great in a pinch for lining up pretty much anything and a lot quicker than a plumb bob.