(Part 2) Best linear measurement products according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ETUZ57U just in case anyone wants to see the tape measure.

It looks great on the video but a lot of the reviews state that the measurements are off by sometimes quite a bit making it unreliable and essentially useless.

https://www.amazon.com/MK-MC12-Measure-Digital-String-Roller/dp/B0792T5WD7

I don't think I've ever used a fractional inch in engineering. Always decimal. I even have a decimal tape measure.

As for Imperial Vs. SI, I honestly don't have a preference. I use whatever makes sense for the project at hand.

Incra rulers:

Here is a video of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4P-I8b2rxs


This one is awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TRBX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2F8KAB7F15GZF

SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | Basic parachute patch. Skydiving Services LLC
Description | This video is about Basic parachute patch. Skydiving Services LLC. It will help people preparing for the parachute rigger oral and practical test. If you need to book a rigging course or test contact me at [email protected] are some links for the squares and rulers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQEUBK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TSWOLQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YZ43T0/...
Length | 0:26:07






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I use the same one. It's great.

Starrett

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-DLR130K-Digital-Distance-Measurer/dp/B001U89QBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427724930&sr=8-1&keywords=electronic+tape+measure

a life saver - no more messy tape measures

The things I use a lot:

• W&N Series 7 Brushes - size 1 and size 0
  
• Cheap brushes for non-detailed work, or washing
  
• Cheap stubbly brush for drybrushing (its an old brush with the tip cut off)
  
• W&N Acrylic Flow Improver
  
• Basic pallette
  
• Citadel paints for all basic colors & washes
  
• Vallejo liquid gold paints for copper/bronze/gold
  
• Swann-Morten Scalpel
  
• Steel Ruler
  
• Sprue Cutters
  
• Pin vice
  
• Dremel Drill Bits for Vice
  
• Cork Sheeting for basing
  
• Model Railway Ballast or Sand for Basing
  
• Self Adhesive grass tufts
  
• Various Glues (Superglue, poly cement, PVA) - any brand
  
• Metal Sculpting Tools
  
• Cheap Green Stuff
  
• Cheap car primers
  
• Scenic Rust Kit
  
  Think thats it?

God damn you reddit, you made me spend money, again.

Amenitee Angle Measuring Tool-Universal Angularizer Ruler - Full Metal Multi Angle Measuring Tool-Upgraded Aluminum Alloy Ruler (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07589P46D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XlS6CbW6VRQ9F

The tandy beginner set is geared towards tooling, which certainly does require veg tan. Depending on whether or not that's the aesthetic you are going for, you may not need the swivel knife and stamps (or you may want many more stamps). But at it's core, you need:

• Something to measure with (metal ruler)
  
  
• Something very sharp to cut with (Utility knife / Rotary Cutter / Round/Head knife)
  
  
• Something to attach pieces together (Contact Cement + either Rivets or Waxed Thread/Harness Needles)
  
  And a slight step above that is something to finish edges (acrylic edge paint, water/gum tragacanth/wax etc.)
  
  I personally do not do a lot of tooling, and also usually use stitching (vs rivets), so if I were going to recommend some starting tools I would say
  
  
• Cork-backed Metal Ruler
  
• Seiwa Pricking Irons
  
  
• Ritza Tiger Thread
  
  
• John James Harness Needles
  
  
• Olfa Rotary Cutter
  
  
• Wing Divider (used to mark stitch lines)
  
  
• Contact Cement
  
• Some variety of beeswax or paraffin, I like this stuff
  
  
• Some scrap pieces of canvas and soft cotton for burnishing an edge (old jeans and t-shirts work great)
  
• Some Misc. items you probably already have like sandpaper and super glue from time to time.
  
  Edit: I didn't include an awl because the Seiwa irons are designed to punch through, but a good diamond awl from Bob Douglas/Barry King or similar would probably be my first upgrade to this set of tools.

The casing looks to be the same as the Komeleon tapes, just in red.
https://www.amazon.com/Komelon-SL2825-Self-25-Foot-Power/dp/B000BQKXLE

You can already get the Komeleon tapes for cheaper than what HF is listing their tapes for.

$6.97 for the 25 ft komeleon:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Komelon-WSL2825-25-Foot-Self-Lock-Tape-Measure/21838846

$4.77 for the 16ft
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Komelon-WSL2816-16ft-Self-Lock-Tape-Measure/21838845

If you buy the hf tapes, you're just spending more for the same thing... unless you just really love red and hate green.

Try this, it has fractions down to 1/32" and markings on both edges of the tape.

​

Lefty-Righty Fraction Tape

I use a Stanley keychain tape measure. It goes up to 3ft and is pretty tiny. I actually posted about it here yesterday. In heavy use it clips to my S-Biner, otherwise it is in a pocket or my bag.

I just did this floor plan on a box lid and yeah straight lines suck.

First, I would suggest drawing everything in pencil with a ruler. I always do this - not sure if others do or not.

Second, there are two ways you can do the lines. Free hand can work if you take your time, but it's always going to give you a little waviness unless you're very good. The other way is to get a steel ruler with a cork backing (something like this). Set that right next to your pencil line and you have a guide for your burner to run along.

Practice!

What burner are you using? I just use the Walnut hollow Versa Tool which isn't too elaborate or expensive, but the rheostat for the temperature can help a lot. I think /u/smolderingdesigns uses the same tool, and she does way better work than me. There are much nicer tools out there, but I wouldn't say they're a requirement to do good work.

I used to carry a Stanley 6' keychain tape rule, longest lasting small tape measure that I have owned.

Looks great.

Add these.

Oh I would only use the calipers on a blade I just bought and plan on rehoning. Otherwise I've got a few of these six inch metal rulers to measure to the nearest 32nd if I want but I usually just do to the 16th. The rulers are handy for carrying into antique stores and markets. I should start carrying my 10x loupe with me. I've picked up a few razors only to find later they had some tiny chips in the bevel (it doesn't ruin the blade just means I have to do extra work on the hones to get the chips out).

Swap the iFixIt out for their new model, it's MUCH nicer.

Other things I'd throw in:

• For those times you need to figure out how far that cable run really is? Bosch Laser Measure
  
• Occasionally one needs to take apart big things (like racks!), for that you need a nice fat(max) screwdriver
  
• 3 port USB 3.0 hub and Gig Ethernet because you never know when you might need to hardware (and Macbook Air's suck for # of USB ports).
  
  While pricey, I'd also swap duct tape for gaffing tape. Terribly useful, rips easier and doesn't leave residue (unless you leave it there for a REALLY long time).

It would probably be easier to get an open reel tape measure like this so you can put it right against the wall.

get a laser measuring device like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-DLR130K-Digital-Distance-Measurer/dp/B001U89QBU/ref=pd_sim_hi_7

Smith and Wesson M&P Shield 9MM (Stock)

7 Round Magazine

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[Gerber Dime] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Kershaw Leek] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009VC9Y0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Zebra F-701 Stainless Steel Pen] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L6RB80/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Zippo Venetian High Polish Chrome Lighter

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Gold Plated Tungsten Carbide Pinky Ring

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That sticky is exactly what you need. I would add that a ruler that has a non-slip/cork back on it is essential for your sanity. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Ruler-18-Cork-Back/dp/B003W0R8EG

Also, perfection is nice, but mine are super wonky and still work. After I've made them I never look at the detail again. You can make them fairly quickly and with some nice zen if you are okay with "happy little accidents"...

Woodpecker makes super nice stuff but they are hilariously expensive, I think a lot of it is because they tend to produce stuff in small production runs and don't really have the volume to keep prices down. Wood is gonna move over time and even a harbor freight caliper can measure more accurately than I can cut something anyway. Woodworking isn't machining, stuff doesn't have to be accurate to a thou.

Incra and Kreg have some marking tools that are very good and much more reasonably priced than woodpecker. I use this thing more than pretty much any other marking tool in the shop.

Amazon has nice straight edges that are guaranteed straight to within good tolerances. I have a couple and they are dead straight measured against a laser and my table saw.

Squares are easy to check, just use a known straight edge like your table saw, scribe a line, flip the square and if its off it will be obvious. I buy squares from harbor freight, check a few in the store to find one that is accurate. An expensive square or straight edge is gonna get screwed up eventually when I inevitably drop it or bang it on something, and with harbor freight I just take it back and get a new one.

Rockler has some house brand stuff like their wheel gauge that's pretty good.

The best marking knife I have owned is a chip carving knife I bought at a flea market. Speaking of which, flea markets, garage sales and swap meets are good places too, buy old quality stuff cheap and restore it.

I use this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000037X0H/

And it has a nice little LED (source) for when you're measuring in the dark.

Well it all depends how you print out the images, and how used to it you are. I'd say by the end of my degree I was much quicker and more accurate with a scalpel than I ever was with a guillotine.

As to the sharpness, you swap the blades out, which is why I say scalpel instead of craft knife (hobby stores are awful for gouging pricewise).

So you can get a handle for £1.29 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Swann-Morton-no3-scalpel-handle/dp/B0038WJPGC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395077088&sr=8-3&keywords=swann+morton+scalpel)

A box of 100 blades for £9.97 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Swann-Morton-number-scalpel-blades/dp/B001VG4P5I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395077088&sr=8-2&keywords=swann+morton+scalpel)

And a ruler for about £1.46 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-MT66-300-Steel-Rule/dp/B000LFVRK6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395077127&sr=8-1&keywords=steel+ruler)

The handles will last forever and as long as you're getting the proper blades they have a decent life too - I didn't even get through a box of 100 through my entire course.

Looking good so far! I have that same seat on mine and affixed it with a bungee cord to the stock seat. I adhered this tape measure on the side for easy fish measurements. Also maybe add some more gear tracks on the gunwales. Man I want to take mine out now.

Can't go wrong with a Stanley Power Lock. The one I linked is a 3'.

Here is a link on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FMHT33706-Keychain-2-Inch-6-Feet/dp/B00BZX2CY8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1373479010&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+fatmax+6

Twenty bucks on Amazon. Not bad, but looks cheap.

I use this all the time for when I have any angle that isn't a perfect 90 or 45 degrees.

I've used one of these to measure throws in the past. Cheap and effective.

https://www.amazon.com/Komelon-SL2825-Self-25-Foot-Power/dp/B000BQKXLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=7QEXVN4KCX0H&keywords=tape+measure&qid=1556652673&s=gateway&sprefix=taoe+&sr=8-3

Well, if you can visit the building in person, you can get reasonably precise measurements with this or something similar. Not only will it give you point-to-point distance, it has a built-in function to get the height of an object that's not immediately nearby. It's just the pythagorean theorem of course, but it's convenient. And if you need distances greater than 120 ft, there's a more powerful version.

After being frustrated with a couple cheaper (and some not cheap) combination squares, I ordered the kit from Starret with the combination square, protractor head, and center head. It was damn expensive, but I haven't wanted to throw it across the room this far. My 2 cents there.

You'll also want a protractor, either from above or stand alone. Incra makes a good one: http://www.amazon.com/Incra-PROTRAC06-Precision-Marking-Protractor/dp/B00002255K

This has been by far my favorite tape measure to use. I have a couple in both metric and imperial:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001GUE3Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1452777500&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Fastcap&dpPl=1&dpID=41MP01FX61L&ref=plSrch

This is a marking gauge, but you can get the one that has the measurements on it and use it for all kinds of stuff. Extremely useful tool:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=59455&cat=1,42936

This one I just learned about sadly, but permanently lives on my 24" straight ruler now. Useful for when you're transferring measurements or making repeated measurements and a square doesn't work (or isn't long enough):
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=53825&cat=1,43513

And last but not least a marking knife and the biggest box of mechanical fine tip pencils you can get, with extra lead. Just leave them scattered around the shop, and when they all congregate (and they will), spread them back out again.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-272-Heavy-Duty-Powerlock-Engineers/dp/B00002X2GL/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=engineers+scale+tape+measure&qid=1561490087&s=gateway&sr=8-23

Yes they do.

Would something like this be good enough? https://www.amazon.com/Anodized-Aluminum-Straight-Guaranteed-Within/dp/B017CG96UY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467852700&sr=8-2&keywords=precision+straight+edge

Best way to meet members of the opposite sex. Hmmm...I'm going to go with doing the things you like to do. If it's not completely one-sex dominated (mudding, quilting, etc), then you know you have at least that activity in common. That will get your foot in the door, as long as you don't go all stalkery on them.

These were the only things on my lists that qualified. Would be one step closer to having all the tools I need for my classes.

I'm a huge fan of Starrett scales and rulers. They have a nice satin chrome finish with crisp embossed lettering and numbering, and they're solid and durable too. I pretty much always have the 6" scale in my pocket when I'm in the shop.


Here's an Amazon link to the one I use:
Starrett C604RE-6 Spring Tempered Steel Rule With Inch Graduations, 6" Length, 3/4" Width, 3/64" Thickness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002FULFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gga6xbHV0ZRZ0

Even something like one of these?

Katzco Open Reel Measuring Tape - 300 Foot Reel Fiberglass Tape Measure - Retractable Blade for Carpenter, Construction, Workshop, Building, Projects, Crafts, Handyman, Landscaping, and Hardware https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DV7NKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eInqDb8T89284

Or take it a step further and get one of the ones with a wheel and a handle where you push it and it measures

$20 on Amazon, more accurate than a range finder, more work too though

The ruler is branded "Silverline", and I've found it on Amazon for you here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-MT66-Steel-Rule-300-x/dp/B000LFVRK6

For use with a saw, it would be kerf-dependent -- put in a different blade, and it might not be accurate any longer. I bought two Starrett adhesive-backed rulers, like this, one left-to-right and one right-to-left, to use on both sides of my miter saw. But I decided I needed a way to calibrate them to any blade, just like on my table saw. So the plan is on hold.

This one is my favorite. It's easy to read, reads down to small increments, the tape is sturdy as hell, and it has a spot where you can write your measurements right on the side with a pencil (erases easy).

I think laser based sensors will be your best bet. The only one I have experience with is one that I pulled out of a Bosch GLM 20 laser measure. It took a bit of fiddling with to figure out what I need to pull out to get only the sensor and get it working properly once it was out, but once said and done it worked amazingly. The only down side is that it's a class 2 laser which will restrict it's uses if it will be fired around eye level. I would also recommend taking a look around to see if the FRC robotics kids have found any good solutions to long distance range finding since they are required to do things fairly cheaply.

Edit: changed some wording

I just started as well using only hand tools. Hopefully this helps in some way. Don't hate me if it doesn't.

So far here is what I've collected:

• A few cheap hand saws from Lowe's
  
• Chisels
  
• Stanley No. 5 plane
  
• Sharpener
  
• Steel ruler
  
• Swanson speed square
  
• 4 x Jorgensen 50 Pony 3/4-Inch Pipe Clamp Fixture (with 6 ft pipe bought separately)
  
• 12" bar clamp
  
• 24" bar clamp
  
• Titebond II wood glue
  
  Note - I have no idea if that knife sharpener is correct to use with the chisels and plane. I'm only using the fine stone and it seems to work, but I have no idea what I'm doing in that department.
  
  This seems to cover the basics for me. I'm about halfway through a desk project and struggling, but I think that's user error more than the tools. More clamps and a better workspace would work wonders.

Starrett rule.

metric

inches

Heres some links:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQKXLE/

and

https://m.alibaba.com/product/62332126006/300W-QB288-KingBrite-samsung-lm301H-led.html

Things that'll always be useful/consumable regardless of what kind of maker they are:

• Scott Shop Towels
  
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
  
• 1-2-3 Blocks
  
  
• Bosch Compact Laser Measure

an Incra t-square, and a bunch of .05 mechanical pencils to use with it.

Try Google took me less than 1 minute

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-272-Heavy-Duty-Powerlock-Engineers/dp/B00002X2GL

Guess it's call engineer's scale.