Best linear motion lead screws according to redditors
We found 14 Reddit comments discussing the best linear motion lead screws. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 14 Reddit comments discussing the best linear motion lead screws. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
100mm Travel Length Linear Rail Guide Ballscrew Sfu1605 DIY CNC Router Parts X Y Z Linear Stage Actuator with NEMA17 Stepper Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC42DLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CFeBDbC1F8TJM
If you're going to replace the rods, you should really consider upgrading straight to lead screws. I replaced the m5 rods on my Prusa i3v with 8mm leadscrews and saw a pretty noticable increase in print quality. They'll help make your printer more rigid and have less backlash, giving smoother and more consistent print faces.
You can get relatively cheap ones off of amazon that will be a serious upgrade over threaded rods: https://www.amazon.com/Drillpro-400mm-Lead-Screw-Printer/dp/B017AR5QBS
ACME thread leadscrew
Mine printed fine for a couple months until I got lines like those.... I bought a new lead screw on amazon for about $10 and it’s been printing fine ever since.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017AR5QBS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the one I bought.
I bought these lead screws. Be careful because they will not fit by default. You will have to drill/dremel out the existing z-axis mounts where the original threaded rod brass nuts were to make these fit. These take M-4 screws while the old ones took M-3 so the holes will need to be enlarged on the carriage. It took about a couple of hours to mount it correctly. It seemed that everything the Geeetech came with was too small by a couple of mm. The 8mm spring couplers were not exactly 8mm so I had to purchase new 8mm spring couplers to get the new lead screws to mount to the z-axis steppers. You will also have to cut the rods shorter because these were 400mm. I also had to tap the M4 threads into the mounting nuts for these. this might not be required as yours might come tapped but I would recommend buying an M4 tap or a set of metric taps. These were a pain in the ass to install but they produced really top quality prints, anything better than I've seen come from my printer. I would say it's worth the bit of engineering to get them to fit. I mean that's what this hobby is about right?
ReliaBot 400mm T8 Lead Screw and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXYT9MH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Here is the z screw, you have to update you z steps after installing obviously
Here is the Dual Z, but he is working on a version 2 that will fix some issues so you should prob wait for that. I had some issues with binding
Maybe something like this?
300mm Travel Length Linear Stage Actuator DIY CNC Router Parts X Y Z Linear Rail Guide Sfu1605 Nema23 Stepper Motor By Beauty Star https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197QCQM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-KYQAb0X59NDD
You can upgrade the z axes screws to leadscrews easily and relatively cheaply on just about any printer. There are plenty of decent ones on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Copper-Coupler-Bearing-Printer/dp/B01H1SFI46/). They'll also greatly improve your printers rigidity, while getting rid of z wobble.
I would suggest waiting on the ballscrews until you are going to build a bigger machine, a lead screw like this with a diy anti-backlash nut would save a fair bit a money and might work better with your motors. Aluminum and MDF could make a frame solid enough for what you need, I would suggest looking on youtube and seeing what others have done.
If you want to build out of aluminum this and this might be a good place to look for ideas and materials. I haven't bought anything from them myself, but it looks interesting.
What are you planning on using for a motion controller? linux cnc, GRBL?
Where about are you located?
It kind of looks like it's pushing back rather just falling back due to gravity. Does it get harder to turn as you go up? If it's really just gravity then you can get an anti-backlash nut.
I have the same printer. This is what I used. The print quality improvement was amazing.
5mmx8mm Flexible Shaft Coupling
Lead Screws
You'll have to change the steps per mm for the z axis. I wasn't able to flash the firmware with the board the printer comes with. I hope you have better luck with yours. I just upgraded to a duetwifi board. It cost more than the whole printer. lol
Also, when you put the shaft couplings on, make sure on of the set screws is on the flat part of the motor shaft so it locks it down good.
No way, that thing sucked even before I accidentally bent it. I think an anti-backlash nut is what I need. Should add more friction, hopefully it's enough but I'll take that risk before downgrading to the M4 rod