Best mechanical timing pulleys according to redditors

You would need quite a large stepper if you try and direct drive the panel. Can you use some timing belt attached at a distance from the hinge? This will give you mechanical advantage, but the panel will not move as quickly.

Hope this helps
2 12V Photoelectric relays
12V motor
6mm bore pully to match motor shaft
Project box
2 limit switches
Solar panel
Battery
If not solar powered. Aka no solar panel or battery

If you have any other questions let me know I am at work and I will answer what I can on my phone

Edit: I forgot a pully to run the rope from, but the motor I linked has so much torque you could go direct no problem, and lumbar to build the door. I estimated about 10$ for wood. I used all treated, as that's what I had laying around, but its probably not necessary as most of the door on my design was in the coop. I can make you a wiring diagram as well if you are interested. That reminds me you should use 4 zener diodes (just because you only need 4 doesn't mean you shouldn buy a 100 for future projects :) also if you goto an electronics store you will pay 5-6$ for 6 diodes) to stop flash back through the whole circuit from the reversing of polarity with the motor.

Yes, electronics can cost a lot, and many of the telescope manufacturers make things, that when I look at them belong in the 1990s or 2000s, in terms of the way they work, and honestly could have been $400. It's basically the TI calcuator system: https://xkcd.com/768/

People have replaced those control systems, using technology (especially things like improved stepper control) which has come about for various reasons, like 3D printers, and simply faster microcontrollers.

Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCBgmgc8qiA conversion (I suspect based on that it was using one of the faster controllers, but mine can do fine with an Arduino Mega + Ramps (the cheap controller))

• SVP $300 New
  
• RAMPS kit: (https://www.amazon.com/Eiechip-CNC-3D-Printer-Kit/dp/B07BKVPZ71) $27 (Not the best drivers, but this can be upgraded if you want later probably also want a PPS source, but it can be dealt without. As can the board.)
  
• Motors (Honestly cheaper, but at 0.9 degrees these are a bit better than the normal 1.8 degrees) https://www.amazon.com/0-9deg-Stepper-Bipolar-42x42x39mm-4-wires/dp/B00W98OYE4 2x$20
  
• Pulley for mount (60 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Timing-Pulleys-Aluminum-Printer-Wrench/dp/B07QH1ZJ9L $8 (2x)
  
• Pulley for motor (16 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Anet-Timing-Pulley-Aluminum-Printer/dp/B07D294B2T/ $8
  
• Belts https://www.amazon.com/132-2GT-6-Timing-Belt-Closed-Loop/dp/B014QI4PU2/ $12 (I think those are what are needed, I'd have to look again to make sure. I use 110s, but have 20 tooth 1:1, as I use geared steppers, with upsides and downsides.)
  
• Bracket (3D printed) or something made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2278288
  
• M6 screws and 2 nuts (<$5 at local store)
  
• Onstep https://groups.io/g/onstep/wiki/home
  
  So At 408 + a bracket (Easy and simple 3D print or easy to DIY, look at the OnStep Showcase for a number of them.)
  
  Along with a 1/4-20 screw and a dovetail (Oh look: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2039785) , and you've got all of the functionality of a one of the Star Adventurers, along with the ability to mount pretty much any telescope up to 8" with a vixen dovetail.
  
  Plus, unlike from what I can tell of almost all commercial ones, they don't seem to compensate for misalignment when tracking. (Ie, they only move RA, not DEC, unless guiding.) Here are some examples of unguided long exposures with dual axis compensation. (Also, He doesn't usually process them, these are per other discussions straight off the camera) https://www.flickr.com/photos/11381732@N08/albums/72157683118306836
  
  Though that uses PEC (Periodic error correction, because worm gears often have high/low spots, so it can be corrected by basically guiding a few times and storing the corrections, which are then replayed). If you want that stored, which isn't included on what I mentioned above, but can be added for the cost of a magnet or two and a hall sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-Effect-KY-003-Magnetic-Arduino/dp/B06XHG9CYN/ $8 and magnet https://www.amazon.com/Personalized-Multi-Use-Whiteboard-Magnetic-Refrigerators/dp/B075PMV2BC/ $8 ) Otherwise you'd have to retrain it each time.
  
  One thing is that the microcontroller and drivers aren't the most advanced, but you can upgrade them if you want. (STM32 about 3x as fast, but it's rarely needed, except for better alignment is about $60, but add two drivers, so call it a net of +$40 extra but that the kit adds wifi ($6 and a bit of wiring to the original) and a hand controller to it. the faster processors ESP32 and Teensy cost more but are something like 14x as fast allowing better alignment. Mind if you use Howard's Sky Planetarium, it won't matter too much, and it'll be able to process on the computer.)
  
  All new, and unless you have space taken up as your main concern the above setup is in pretty much all respects better than that suggested by dan.

I'll second the printrbot play.

I use a printrbot play, and I'm very happy with it. $400 entry level printer, recommend a y-axis upgrade and a zebra-plate from printinz. I also use hatchbox filament from amazon.

You could realistically increase the Y axis with only two longer 8mm rods, a printinz plate of equivalent length, and a GT2 belt.

Long detailed post about it here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3xkxf7/thoughts_on_printrbot_play_and_printrbot_simple/cy6791u

My most recent print, replacement feet for my son's Combiner Wars Transformers: http://imgur.com/k0MYjH0

Favorite print: DL-44 blaster http://imgur.com/XMRSe2y

Various: http://imgur.com/Gwhv28z

That's not to say there aren't problems and heartaches with every 3D printer. It's still an emerging technology. There are tons of issues that can happen. I recommend shopping not only for a printer, but also a printing community.

Wonderful thank you!

Would these be the right belts (and enough length)?

Yea I agree. I can see why people would think you're "hating" on the printers, but I honestly see you trying to warn and help out the new guys.

I agree it's not "Tinkering" and can very much be a shit load of busy work that should already have been done by the factory, but I'm a weird person and like that crap :P

The most important thing I'm keeping in mind is simply this: If it turns out to be a 100% all-around shit experience, that's my fault and it's not typical of all 3D printers.

Thanks for all you do and keep putting out the good words!
-A Crazy Ass First Time Printer :P

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GTGOD6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JsdjWqVv87ACN

Anything similar to this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJLZTLV

I didn't take pictures of the old pulley before I threw it away. It was really mangled. Do you want the new set up? it looks just like any pictures I have seen of what a stock pulley "should" look.

below is a link to the pulley I bought from amazon. it came with new grub screws and everything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714QYPGV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I probably talked to the same team you did at Houston. I’ve never made it, but think I grasp the concept. Using a belt like this , one side is mounted to the back of the last stage of the slide, then loops around to the front of the next stage, then to the back of that stage, and so on (just like in a string lift). After the last stage, the belt loops around the pulley attached to the motor, and then Is once again looped around the slide except in the opposite direction. (If you’ve ever strung a lift with two strings, it’s the same concept). You don’t need a pulley on any of the points the belt loop back, just something to minimize the friction of it rubbing. Also you’d need to find pulley for the output that can interface with the FTC motor output shafts, since most of the ones I find on amazon are for stepper motor shafts. Servocity might have something.

The best solution I've seen for this is to add pulley's to both leadscrews: and use a belt to keep them in sync. If you then attach a single stepper to one of the leadscrews (using a 40 tooth pulley https://www.amazon.com/KINGPRINT-Timing-Pulley-Aluminum-Printer/dp/B077P8PQHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519229665&sr=8-1&keywords=gt2+40+tooth), it can drive both at the same time. The benefit of the 40 tooth pulley is it gives you a mechanical advantage that makes your Z higher torque and accuracy. You will need to modify your z steps per mm, but that's a one time adjustment. Here are some pics of how I've done this in the past: https://imgur.com/a/3fjuE

I would suggest manual operation. Attach timing pulleys to your threaded rods, wrap a timing belt around all four, and then just pull on the belt in either direction to raise/lower the table. The biggest trick here is that you have to splice the belt together on your own and you'd need to calculate the available throw vs screw pitch vs gear teeth to make sure your splice doesn't need to roll over the gears to get the height you need.

LICTOP 2GT Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley GT2 5mm Bore 6mm Width Toothless for 3D Printer Timing Belt,Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9QDVC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IUT4CbREGQ706

Not to detract from the point of this post, but I thought I'd share:

I bought this for 3 dollars: https://www.hobbypartz.com/exi-630.html

And these for 7: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJLZTLV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CqQXCbQ5WXDKM

BALITENSEN 5Pcs Smooth GT2 Idler Pulley 16 Teeth 3mm Bore 2GT Toothless Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GXV7BJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jo52Cb1S0K66Y

I just ordered this kit, I'll let you know how it goes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776KXY8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pTfvCbBXTW5CQ

Edit: Parts came in and everything is fantastic. Installed the dampers and it is amazingly quiet.

I cut the gear off mine with a Dremel and then added this to the rod coming out of the motor. [Link] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QYPGV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

I will likely end up doing the feet as well, but I also just did the dampers and had the heat shrunk on pulleys. It took only about an hour to do both the x and y axis motors.

Just tape up the motor real well. Several layers of protection that is. Keep every bit of metal dust and debris away from the bearings. There are magnetic fields in the motor and it will attract them. Use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the pulleys off. You might knick the shaft a bit, that's (somewhat) okay because you'll want to grind a small flat on the shaft for the grub screws on the new pulleys.

FYI new pulleys: UEETEK 5 PCS Aluminum 2GT GT2 Pulleys 20 Teeth Bore 5mm for 3D Printer Reprap Mendel Prusa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XF721XX/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_YHmvCbKEKRRAM

These pulleys worked great. I did a cube test print before and after and noticed not enough of a change to say it wasnt a print issue (maybe 0.005") difference. MAYBE...

All in all I'm very happy with the result. I will likely check the new gears to make sure they're staying tight and don't round off, this week sometime.

Yes I took the set screws off. I’m assuming grub screws are the same as set screws?

Edit: what KV would you recommend? I weigh 150 lbs and the original motor was 1200 watts, which the 140 kv motor is too, but the 200kv motor is more. Do watts matter? I am trying to get a motor that will work perfectly, sorry for all the questions.

Edit 2: I realized I hadn’t pasted the link to the pulley in one of the original comments. Here: https://www.amazon.com/HTD-3M-Timing-Belt-Pulley/dp/B01MAU1N2I

Does this work? I assume not but it might?