(Part 2) Best oils according to redditors

As someone who has fixed up a fair few bikes from the dump, out of skips etc, many people think rust like that matters way more than it actually does, it's often just a case of putting some lube on the chain and riding it round the block a few times to free it up and it's riding totally fine, the rust is usually just cosmetic. What matters is the how stretched the chain is and the shape of the teeth on the cogs, rust has to be seriously bad before it affects that.

Get some proper bike lube if you don't have any, 'wet' type, this is good - I would not recommend using WD40.

If you wanted you could give the chain and cogs a going over with a stiff wire brush before lubing, do this outside or wear a dust mask.

If you had the tools you could remove the chain and cassette and soak them in white vinegar or citric acid solution overnight and completely dissolve the rust, but I wouldn't consider it if you don't have the tools already.

If this doesn't work, or it turns out the chain is stretched or the cogs are worn in shape then look at new parts but I'd try this out first. You need chain lube anyway whatever happens.

About this much.

10w60 can be had for as little as $8/L. Though I'll admit I know nothing about this brand.

Even so, it's still always cheaper to diy.

I usually only see clear, blue, or black in stores but an amazon search shows you can get pretty much any of them online, I haven't used it myself but I suspect it is the permatex rtv for gear oil (appears to be green).

The radiator stop leak could be it though too. Some of the pictures about nightmares of stop leak make it look fairly similar. I can't find anything where someone was dumb enough to put it in the engine oil though.

I do, using this oil (car uses 9-10 liters):

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-12535-Synthetic-Exclusive-Approval/dp/B0161A4CIS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467389009&sr=8-3&keywords=10w60

Candle wax, graphite from a pencil, soap, or zipper lubricant wax

Yes a barrel of oil is a thing as in a 55 gallon drum type barrel (not wooden).

You buy them from bulk oil suppliers, etc

[O'Reilly] (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Full+Synthetic+-+5W-30/N1188/C0252.oap?page=1&results=20&sortBy=3)

[Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZIE8U4)

I have used Mobil 0W-20 in my 2018 for the last two oil changes. I've poured over online threads for all types of Subarus, and found that for the filter it's best to stick to OEM (blue is good, black is better but hard to find). This Fumoto drain plug also makes the process so much easier.

Motul

Engine oil

wheel chock

So I am not sure. As the manual for the 2013 Optima says this:

> API Service SM*3, ILSAC GF-4 or above

I did 15 minutes of googling... and the best I can tell is it means 0w-20 / 0w-30 / 5w-20 / 5w-30 / 10w-30

Some more googling revealed that the cheapest of Normal engine oils exceed these requirements.

This one on amazon is API SN (which is better than API SM) And ILSAC GF-5 (Which is better than GF-4)

So what I am saying is... according to what little I just learned in 15 minutes... Your car can take the cheapest shit you can find as long as it meets one of those requirements.

technically a synthetic rated GF-4 would work worse than a normal oil rated GF-5 from what I have read.

I say wait for someone with more knowledge to respond than me. But if it was me. I would have no issues going with Regular Oil.

Heck maybe even try to get Kia corporate on the phone. or call a few KIA dealerships shops and ask.

Oil breaks down faster when an engine is older and has that many miles on it, why are you arguing with the facts? Intervals are based on an engine that is operating within normal tolerances. The manual doesn't tell you to rebuild an engine when it starts burning oil does it? Yet that is what will fix your oil burning problem.

Also, don't forget that shortening the interval will have a cumulative effect. If you ever plan on keeping a car to 300,000 miles you better believe you're going to have a better chance of getting to that point if you select an appropriate oil and interval for the mileage.

I'm sure there is something that you are knowledgable about that I am not, but please take it from me. I have had hands on experience with hundreds of different cars of all kinds of mileage, and have hand rebuilt several engines. You decide if I know what i'm talking about.

Edit: Oh yeah, oil is cheap. Don't be a cheapskate. This is /r/personalfinance not /r/frugal, let's make sane decisions not penny pinching ones. If you can't afford $14 plus a $5 filter every 3000 miles, I don't know what to say... https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038350-5W-30-Motor-GF-5/dp/B00ELHNGSQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465702731&sr=8-4&keywords=pennzoil

Can anyone recommend (or tell me to stay away from) Mobil 1 Ext Full Synthetic?

I used to always run Castrol on my GTI so I continued with my ST. & they’re very affordable on Amazon.

Castrol 03084 EDGE 5W-30 Advanced... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ICSWGJ0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They make products specifically for chain cleaning/degreasing. Here's one example. I'd also suggest getting a rear stand, and then keep a few old cardboard boxes around. Put the bike up on the stand, put a piece of cardboard on it, then make all the mess you want. Throw it out/burn it when you're done.

I was going to use this.. thoughts? https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-03084-5W-30-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B00ICSWGJ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499440761&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=Magnatec+5W-30+A5

First oil change can be early. SOA doesn't mention it but dealers do offer it at varying intervals. I'm in FL and my dealer offered to do it at 1k after the break in period.

I'm doing my own changes and did the first one at 3k and second at 6k to get me back on track. Pretty easy to do on these engines and total cost is about $30: $23 for the oil and $8 for OEM filter, the latter you can probably get a little cheaper from other sites or possibly the dealer.

Yep. These cars eat oil. Every 500miles I put 1/4qt of oil or every 1000miles 1/2qt. Check out this oil. I’ve heard good things about it and I’ve been using it Liqui Moly 2331 Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 1qt they also sell 5qts

If it were me, I would return it and buy motorcycle specific oil with the same weight; 10w-30. If you don’t mind buying online, apparently this is what you need:

Honda GN4 10W-30 Motorcycle Oil - Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8OQZOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q79mDb1ND9NR8

I don’t know what year your bike is, so I googled 2015 since the cbr500r model was released in 2013 and it’s 2019 I figured you were somewhere in the middle.

>Oil changes are about $200 at my indy shop, it requires a lot of oil.

You're spending double what you should, still way too much even if someone else does it. I had an E92 M3 and while I would do the changes myself, I only spent about $90-100 on oil + filter. 2 of these for $80, one of these and you're good to go for $100. If you prefer Castrol ECS sells oil change kits for $120.

I would say that for $1,600 this would be a good Jeep to buy. Take into account that your shipping cost for parts will be way more expensive than what I would pay here in the US, but those are all easy/inexpensive fixes.

The sensors are very easy to change yourself, they are both easy to get to. The temp sensor is on the front, heres one.

The oil pressure sensor is a common issue. Get one from a dealer if possible, the aftermarket ones tend to die fairly quickly, here's an OEM one from Jeep.

For the front axles I would first try changing out the differential fluid. You'll need about 2 quarts of 80w 90 gear oil. You don't have to buy a gasket, as you can use RTV gasket maker as your gasket. I would suggest doing both differentials so get double of both gear oil and gasket maker. Inspect the gears inside the differentials while you have the covers off and spray them out with brakleen to clean them up a bit before adding the new oil.

The exhaust for free is great. Have someone like a trusted mechanic weld it on for you.

The jeep seems like a great buy, especially for $1600. I would buy this asap. Is 350.000 ISK a lot of money in Iceland? $1600 in the US is less than 1 month's salary.

If gas is very expensive in Iceland, which I'm sure it is, then think about that. I don't know what kilometers are, I use miles per gallon and my XJ gets about 15-17 miles per gallon of gas. Something to think about.

Life expectancy is pretty limitless, what matters is how the transmission was maintained and used. Fluid changed at proper intervals, proper rev matching and use of the clutch.

Before you drop the transmission, try Liqui Moly, which has MoS2 (Molybdenum disulfide), mixed in with fresh transmission fluid. MoS2 completely resolved my major 2nd gear grind problems in the ZF transmission in my E36 M3.

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2019-Anti-Friction-Lubricant/dp/B00CPL8UPY
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

You really have nothing to lose at this point; changing fluid is cheap and easy to do. Who knows, it might fix your problem. Do note, that it took about ~50 miles for my grinding to resolve itself after swapping the fluid and adding the MoS2.

All small desk fans are going to use tiny induction motors with bronze bearings. The induction motor itself will last a long time but the bronze bearings wear out in a few years or less.

If you want to buy a fan and have it last a long time buy a cheap fan from walmart that looks easy to disassemble and lubricate the bearings every once in a while with:
http://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-10045-Motor-Oil-Pack/dp/B0083V8MMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393881068&sr=8-1&keywords=3+in+1+motor+oil

Is this the stuff you mentioned (and grade)? Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0052029KM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469305601&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=mobil+1+super+synthetic&dpPl=1&dpID=418-hCjucdL&ref=plSrch

Edit: reworded question

Cannot recommend a product like this enough for beach camping: Zipper Ease Lubricant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YES88E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B0OpxbE1FJP0H

I've beach camped both with and without it, and man it makes a difference for zippers.

Thanks! Really helpful. Both are actually available online from Amazon.

Filter

Oil

Yamalube 10w50

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039L9LSO/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I typically use DuPont Motorcycle Degreaser.

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Description | Since the last video, your purchases became more adult, so we asked Hannah Witton along to help! Pull down the description for links | Hannah's channel: https://youtube.com/hannahwitton | Hannah's book: http://amzn.to/2rn8fNg MATT: http://youtube.com/unnamedculprit | TOM: http://youtube.com/TomScottGo AUTOMOTIVE: Dry Lube: http://amzn.to/2rWzqxb Wet Lube: http://amzn.to/2rWs7p3 Butt Connectors: http://amzn.to/2sXS4mD BEAUTY: David Beckham, Made of Instinct: http://amzn.to/2sXQbGD ManCave Beard...
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Here's the link to Amazon. 12 quarts (2 changes worth) for $105 https://www.amazon.com/5w50-Motorcraft-XO-5w50-QGT-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B00MWCROVW/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=motorcraft+5w-50&qid=1550087108&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

I've been buying it off Amazon, it's the best deal I can find.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWCROVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q4qFDb3R0TP41

Yes. This is the 5 Liter jug Liqui Moly Synthetic Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 and this is the link for the 1L bottles

Edit: Here’s my post about Liqui Moly Synthetic Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 Motor Oil

Had notchy T-90 in a 65 Jeep after rebuilding it.

Liqui Moly 2019 MoS2 Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2019-Anti-Friction-Lubricant/dp/B00CPL8UPY

Took care of that.

I get the 5w30 eco-nergy!

https://www.amazon.com/Motul-MTL102898-Eco-nergy-Synthetic-Lubricant/dp/B004LEYIHW

It's because those higher end cars require higher end oils, specifically higher end oils that can take more heat before deteriorating. When they add a turbo it will frequently require this higher end oil because the oil gets into the very hot turbo, and if it deteriorates there it will destroy the turbo. Since they have oil that won't deteriorate under heat, they also add extra additives so it does it's job longer. As for what makes the oil perform well with heat, it's mostly that they require that the compounds that burn and turn into coke at lower temperatures are not present in the oil, thus it's completely composed of high temperature rated compounds (that is what synthetic oil is for the most part).

The German cars like to rate their oil changes assuming you put in the high end oils (and in doing so, they will also require that you use it), the cheaper brands of cars rate their engines assuming you use cheaper oil (but most new cars are 5-7.5k, not 3k, even with cheap oil). If you put the high end oil into these cars they will generally do fine to 15k, just like the BMWs (but you really need the engineers from the engine design team to tell you it's ok). However, many of the synthetic oils do just claim that it will extend you to 15k, Mobil 1 even guarantees it

I'll preface this with I Am Not a Professional, and my situation involved a bathroom vent fan, not a furnace fan, but I had the same symptoms. Loud humming when it was turned on, giving the fan a manual push would start it for a bit before it would slow down and stop. I suspected that the fan had built up too much dust and the motor couldn't overcome the friction, so I picked up some small motor oil (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083V8MMG) and worked it into the moving parts. After a couple minutes of applying oil and giving the fan some manual help, it was back to normal.

What kind of work are you doing?

Also I'm guessing for the price point you're shooting with DSLRs, have you considered going the video monopod route instead? I got one of these not long ago and I really love it, combined with a stabilizer for shots when I have/want to move it works perfectly for my workflow, and doesn't restrict me in the same way a shoulder rig does, and lets me get beautiful stable fluid pan and tilts.

It's worth noting also that gimbals have come down in price so much over the last year, when the movi first came out it was pretty unobtainable but now with the ronin and other competitors it's becoming a lot more realistic, and I think for lightweight videography shoulder rigs may start to become a thing of the past.

Food for thought anyway.

It would be tricky to get something that smooth without a fluid head tripod.

You could use something like a DJI Osmo gimbal if you needed something really compact to get this sort of shot. It won't be as steady or as smooth as a tripod (you may need to use warp stabalizer to smooth it out further if you wanted to mimic the tripod movement).

Other gimbals are available of course, though not all gimbals support manual pan/tilt control (some only do one or the other) so make sure you do your research.

If you've got money to burn, then you can get a monopod with a fluid head which would be a lot eaisier to carry around versus a full set of sticks - not as stable though!

10W-30 will do just fine. I always preferred regular oil and doing an oil change on a bike takes like 5-10 minutes. G4N is just a name honda uses a believe.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-GN4-10W-30-Motorcycle-Oil/dp/B00G8OQZOM

Oil, is Oil

Always refer to your owner's manual when it comes to maintenance.