(Part 2) Best potassium mineral supplements according to redditors
We found 203 Reddit comments discussing the best potassium mineral supplements. We ranked the 46 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Explosive Elephant Toothpaste!! edited to correct ingredient - and update notes
My goal was big, shooting foam steams! I tried other methods and recipes - but this worked best!
What is happening in elephant toothpaste: hydrogen peroxide is made up of two hydrogen and two oxygen molecules. This is one extra oxygen molecule than water. Hydrogen peroxide is very unstable; it keeps wanting to lose that extra oxygen molecule. In this experiment, we use potassium iodide as a catalyst to knock off that extra oxygen molecule very quickly, and soap to capture those molecules of oxygen in foam.
I tried this with two different flask types: 2L Erlenmeyer flask and 2L graduated cylinder.
For each flask I needed the following:
To get (my best approximation of) 4 molar KI, I put 35 mg of nearly-pure granular KI in a small glass measuring beaker, and filled it to 50 ml with cool tap water.
If you use smaller flasks, you will need to cut the ingredients by about 1/2.
I was able to buy the chemicals and all the flasks online. Please be careful with the hydrogen peroxide – it will burn your skin at this concentration.
The result is soapy water - but there may be some residual hydrogen peroxide. Simply rinsing the area well should be sufficient.
Steps:
Pre-make the KI solution, and measure out all other chemicals.
USING GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION
-- Put 250ml H2O2 in each flask
-- Put ~25-30 ml of dish soap in each flask
-- Add a few drops food coloring of color desired (complicates clean-up - be warned!)
-- QUICKLY add 50 ml KI solution to each flask and jump back!
Notes:
The graduated cylinder produces a thick pillar of foam, the Erlenmeyer flask produces more of a jet.
The chemicals should be added by an adult.
If you film this, be sure to have the person filming stand back, and be prepared to capture an 8 to 10 foot jet coming out of the flask.
Shopping list (what I used):
This puts out a thick column of foam:
213I16 Karter Scientific 2000ml Glass Graduated Cylinder, Single Metric Scale https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006UKIBKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8OuWxbG8YRB8N
This puts out a narrow/taller jet of foam - I now have three:
2000ml / 2L Narrow Mouth Erlenmeyer Flask with Heavy Duty Rim https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q34D0HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rQuWxb4708ZVJ
Pure Health Discounts Certified 35% Hydrogen Peroxide with 1 oz Bottle Dropper - 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKIGJW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YD4pzbZTGXC86
Potassium Iodide, High Purity Crystals, 99.8 % min., 100 grams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D8161I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PTuWxb0N94SZQ
Atlas Glove 620 Atlas Vinylove 12" Double Dipped Gloves - Small (they come in different sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PJ0WRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nUuWxbSQCV77N
Learning Resources Primary Science Safety Glasses (good size for kids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZLSWFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SVuWxbBKKKD9R
Heathrow Scientific HD15909 Spatula with Flat End and Spoon End, 9" Overall Length (optional - but good for mixing the potassium iodide) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061OT1A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qSuWxbA6R27C3
This was my preferred secure wipe method when I still worked in I.T. My second career as a chemist is a much better fit.
WARNING: THIS PROCESS IS PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL AND ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY. PERFORM THIS METHOD AT YOUR OWN RISK. THIS GENERATES TONS OF HEAT, BLINDING UV LIGHT, MOLTEN IRON, AND FUN. NEITHER I, NOR REDDIT, NOR YOUR PARENTS WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR OSHA RECORDABLE INCIDENTS.
Potassium Permanganate 150 Grams, Manofohm, READ THE DESCRIPTION https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011PNQB5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fXJEzbZXKY2KW
I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.
I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.
This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.
Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).
At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock
Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.
An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.
Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).
An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.
If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:
Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.
Ingredients:
2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.
A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).
1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).
Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.
Process:
Day 1:
Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.
Add honey to jug, all of it.
If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.
If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.
At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).
Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.
Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.
Days 2-7:
Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.
Day 8:
Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.
Day 9:
let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.
Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment
Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.
Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.
Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.
Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.
Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.
Day 11:
Let it sit
Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.
If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.
Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.
Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.
Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.
Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.
The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.
EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.
I buy my pH in capsules, https://www.amazon.com/Klaire-Labs-Bi-Carb-Formula-250c/dp/B001PYUMOE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418437630&sr=8-1&keywords=Bi-Carb+Formula+250+caps
http://www.phmiracleliving.com/t-food-chart.aspx
http://healthwyze.org/reports/191-ph-food-chart
https://trans4mind.com/nutrition/pH.html
http://www.rense.com/1.mpicons/acidalka.htm
http://www.balance-ph-diet.com/acid_alkaline_food_chart.html
How much iodine should you take if you get zero iodine from your diet?
RDI is 150mcg but looking at supplements, the doses are very high. All toward the upper limit of daily.
What're you taking?
Quick Edit: I'm ordering these. Thanks for the PSA!
Amazon?
I like Now brands, you can find them on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foods-Magnesium-Citrate-Veg-capsules-120-Count/dp/B00NR2MVC8
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Now-Foods-Potassium-Citrate-Capsules/dp/B005P0MNTQ
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Ohio-3N-PD8E-MWY4-Bicarbonate/dp/B0064GZPU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483002561&sr=8-1&keywords=kansui
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Ohio-M6-H0GM-1VSD-Bicarbonate/dp/B009WTZ12W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483002561&sr=8-4&keywords=kansui
I'm on day 28 of a water fast. For most people, the hunger during the first four days isn't real hunger, it's just cravings, habits, and blood sugar roller-coastering. After day 5, you shouldn't be hungry any more. Take vitamins, eat sodium, and get enough sleep. Personally, I take these, these, and these during an extended fast; they're all fine on an empty stomach. Just before re-feeding, I start in with the sulbutiamine and more potassium than usual just for good measure. Dr. Jason Fung's Intensive Dietary Management website, as well as his YouTube videos, have some great info.
To answer your question about how long can you do it, here's a calculator to find out whether your body can convert fat to calories fast enough to provide your energy needs (most men are physically large enough that this never becomes an issue for them). The world record is 382 days--a guy named Angus Barbieri from Scotland.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENS39Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lt9PBbA952WQ9
Can you buy this? Not that expensive for the amount you get. My bag has lasted me forever.
You can get pure powder online but you need to be very careful with your measurements. This product, for example, has 700 mg per flat teaspoon.
Or, you can buy straight potassium chloride. I get L-tyrosine and ALCAR in bulk powder, too – way more cost effective than buying branded stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENS39Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_tai_bl8DybPMW5TPN
Check craigslist first for carboys. I got 5 6.5 gallon glass carboys for 75 bucks last year. As far as the rest...don't spend a ton.
You want a large primary fermenter, I don't use the buckets because they're too small if you want to use a bunch of fruit for a melomel. You can get a very high quality 14 gallon lab quality HDPE container for 31 dollars drill a hole in it and put in a bung with a 0.25 psi ozone check valve. You never have to worry about your airlocks going dry!!
You want a large stainless steel spoon, no plastic one as they are flimsy and will bend. I think I paid 7 bucks for mine at my local brew place.
You want a carboy brush that you can attach to a drill. I bought mine locally 3 years ago (it's a cheap shitty one like this) and I still use it all the time and it hasn't had any problems.
For sanitization, go Iodophor, it's cheap and it doesn't foam like StarSan, making it easier to rinse out carboys after you buzz them with the brush on your pistol drill. Buy this locally, it's very cheap, and you don't use a lot (like 1 cap full for a carboy) so if you buy the 4 ounce bottle, it will probably last you a year or more. I brew probably 100 gallons a year, and the 16 ounce bottle I bought 3 years ago is still like 1/3 full.
And always go glass, fuck plastic carboys.
For chemicals, go to your local brew place and get some bulk potassium metabisulfite it's the same thing as in campden tablets but it's cheaper in loose form, and a 1/4 teaspoon works just fine in place of a tablet.
I also buy potassium sorbate, it works differently than sulfites to stop fermentation, I use both when I use chemicals at all. You should get this locally, shipping accounts for most of the amazon cost.
You will want an autosiphon, doing it with the racking cane can be kind of a pain in the ass when you're brewing alone. I use a vacuum pump, but don't put up the 200 bucks until you know this is a hobby you really like. Again, get this locally as it's bulky but light so you'll get it cheaper vs buying online.
I don't personally use yeast nutrient except for a very few specific high test (like over 20% ABV) meads. I use raisins, they provide tannins (so you don't have to buy that in loose form) they help to acidify the brew just a bit (so you don't have to buy acid blend) and they provide plenty of nutrient for your yeasties. I add like 1 cup of finely chopped grocery store brand raisins when I brew to each 5 gallons of primary fermentation. Toss these in with your initial water boil to sanitize them and help to break them down a bit for the yeast. You can't taste the raisin after the yeast is done with them, they marginally add some more sugar, but it's so little that I don't even bother to take this into consideration when calculating.
For corking...start with 20 ounce beer bottles and a crown capper. The reason I say this is those lever action corkers fucking blow, none of them are good, and you'll end up with mead all over the place. Until you're ready to invest in a Portuguese floor corker stick with oxygen absorbing crown caps and 20 ounce beer bottles (which you should also buy locally as shipping will kill you on these.) I still bottle all of my no chemical meads in 20 ounce beer bottles to prevent them from launching corks.
Lastly, ditch the hydrometer. Get a Refractometer that has both brix and specific gravity. You will lose less wort and you don't have to worry about accidentally dropping and shattering the thing (which always happens 5 minutes before you need it.) Hydrometers are SUPER fragile.
I get these ones https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vita-World-Potassium-Citrate-Capsules/dp/B00K5N3860/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1519420635&sr=8-5&keywords=potassium+citrate
Canada produces a lot of potash so you might be able to find it for a good price locally.
Muriate of Potash is cheaper and usually more concentrated but has a higher burn potential than Potassium Sulfate.
Here's a quick example of something you could use that I found on amazon.ca: 10 lbs for $40 CDN: https://www.amazon.ca/10-Pounds-Potassium-Sulfate-Potash/dp/B008NWUXL8/ Another listing says it's 0-0-50
You'll probably want to dissolve concentrated powders like that into warm water and spray it.
To make the salt I use these pill capsules and fill them with a mixture of 1 part potassium citrate powder. I’ll put 1 1/4 teaspoons uniodized salt (it’s important that it doesn’t have iodine because you’re consuming a lot and don’t want iodine poisoning) in a bowl with 1/4 tsp potassium, stir it up, and then I open the pill, hold it over the bowl a and pour a spoonful in (so the extra just falls back in the bowl), and pop the cap on. I do that until I run out of powder. It’s super easy, I just watch Netflix at my desk and do it. Each capsule is about 250g of salt and 50g of potassium.
It’s cool that magnesium does all that for you! I took a really high dose of it for years, but at the moment I’m off all of my supplements except salt because I was having anaphylactic reactions a few weeks ago and we simplified my meds as much as possible to reduce variables. Eventually I’ll go back on them one at a time to assess their benefits.
Counter it with potassium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, or magnesium carbonate. All are cheap, easy to get, good for you, and can be taken daily.
Here's a product with all three
https://www.amazon.com/Adjust-Alkalinizing-Alkalinize-Potassium-Bicarbonate/dp/B01MV792PW
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Ohio-4C-LUSC-FUCL-Potassium/dp/B006O93LRK/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1465670820&sr=8-1&keywords=potassium+sorbate
thank you for this. would you mind checking these for me?
http://www.amazon.com/Potassium-99-Chloride-99mg-100-Tablet/dp/B00020HWUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1343188871&sr=8-2&keywords=potassium+chloride
http://www.amazon.com/Twinlab-CellMins-Potassium-Magnesium-Capsules/dp/B001G7QG3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343188910&sr=8-1&keywords=potassium+magnesium
which one of those would be better?
I use an additional potassium supplement on top of regular electrolyte intake. It wasn't until I started extra supplementation, that my cramps went away. I use Potassium Citrate by Now.
See if your specialist thinks you could change to this Douglas Laboratories - Potassium Chelated - Supports Nervous, Skeletal, and Circulatory System* - 100 Capsules https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VMG8Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zSuHDbBHW04AB . Brands my drs prefer are Douglas labs and Standard process but SP does specific blends. I’ve also used bulk supplements off amazon. Bulk is no fillers.
>is there any reason I can't use Monopotassium Phosphate and titrate with KOH up to the desired pH range?
I believe so, but if there is I don't know it. Anyhow, I found some dibasic potassium phosphate on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Potassium-Phosphate-Dibasic-Grade-1000g/dp/B00CF28K2G
>For a 1500L Hot Tub how would I know how much to add without gross trial and error?
Dimensional analysis and the Henderson-Hasselbach equation. Or, use this (just be sure to change the molecular weights).
>Most literature recommends a TA (total alkalinity) of 100ppm for carbonate/bicarbonate buffers. Would the "total alkalinity" of a phosphate buffer correspond to a carbonate/bicarbonate buffer?
I have no idea about this part.