(Part 2) Best power distribution units according to redditors

Not quite as cheap per u but you can get 10 packs of the APC 1u panels for about $50 on Amazon and probably cheaper on eBay. We buy these things by the case (of 400) at work, they are okay so long as you aren't constantly pulling them out.

If you want amazing blanking panels find the IBM panels with the rubber gaskets and metal spring clips on eBay, we have a number of those floating around that have to be over 20 and they still clip in cleanly every time.

APC rack blanking panel kit - 1 U - 10 PACK (AR8136BLK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007RBWSU/


IBM blanking panel example
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-3-Space-3U-Server-IT-Rack-Mount-Server-Panel-Blank-Filler-Spacer-375739/192710670805

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-PDU15M10AT-Metered-100-120V-Rackmount/dp/B00NEHUX08

Here ya go. $250, mostly reputable source. I wouldn't go with anything cheaper. Power is rarely where you want to cheap out unless you like fires or dead equipment.

Lighting

Blank outs

For my 2400w server PSUs I simply use an adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0O42N4/ref=asc_df_B00S0O42N45243846

I'm no electrician but have wired/installed all our 220 for our rigs. As long as the equipment you're using is rated for the amperage you are drawing you'll be fine.

Yes of course!

https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-350-12-Switching-Constant/dp/B07BH1FTYP/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=meanwell+12v+350w&qid=1564127019&s=gateway&sr=8-1

But thats the us amazon, didnt found it on the au-amazon. And obviously, as always, you will pay more for it. ;-)

CCTV enclosure? Power supply for a CCTV system?

Edit: I think I found it.:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4AI4L7/ref=psdc_689651011_t1_B07LG5XC4D

Damn, that looks pretty nice actually.

Thanks for the response much appreciated.

I’m trying to connect this PDU to the 14-30r:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B016A4CKC0/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

To that pdu I’ll be hooking up 3 devices to the c19s which should draw a total of 24amps max.

It doesn’t say anywhere if it’s 50hz or 60hz though. Do you think it’s safe

Edit: the product I’m attaching is this and under frequency it says 47-63hz. Given that, you think it should be ok to just wire a 14-30 plug onto the pdu manually?

https://support.bitmain.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012411694-Introduction-to-APW3-

Honestly that's pretty standard. You can't wire that box into the wall, you could hypothetically install a converter box, that would control multiple sources of power.

You could cut a proper sized hole and put a plate there instead of just a hole if you wanted though.

Edit/

Something like this

VENTECH CCTV 18 Channel Output 12V DC 20A Auto Reset Fuse CCTV Distributed Power Supply Box for Security Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HSS7UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4CfrzbKH9NWYA

Or just doing a plate like this

Buyer's Point Brush Wall Plate, with Single Gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket Device (White Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7JSB52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ODfrzb3BYZT1H

You have to use in wall rated cable (looks like he used 18/2 or similar). You could run it somewhere else, but it should always be easily accessible.

Ares Vision CCTV/LED 12v DC Power Supply Box (18 Port 20 AMP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN3VZKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bHHTDbJTJ573W

Then convert at source with:

DaFuRui 8 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Adjustable Buck Converter 3.0-40V to 1.5-35V Power Supply Step Down Voltage Regulator Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1BDG96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIHTDb47WMF5P

Holy crap this is extremely helpful. I really appreciate this. I'm seeing it from a better point of view. In that case what do you think about this setup I want to do.

Question: Kill a Watt- Are you saying plug it all into the PDU and then PDU through the killawatt to see the power draw? (that's how it made sense in my head) PDU - > Kill A Watt - > UPS?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDODQYS/?coliid=I3IQ3I1OK0BWUR&colid=11AG43GKMNTUS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MHL3VG/?coliid=I1I4EKTHMMNO5E&colid=11AG43GKMNTUS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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Thoughts?

I can confirm that it won't work. The 720/920 both require a minimum of 40w. I have a battery that outputs 20v/3.0A on USB-C and will not charge my Yoga 920.

I now use a Cygnett Chargeup Pro 20000, which outputs 45W on it's USB-C port, and it charges fine. Using a USB in line power meter, it tells me that the laptop is drawing 14.5v/2.8A (roughly, it fluctuates slightly of course) minimum to charge it viat the battery pack, which translates to roughly 40W

Here's the battery I use: https://www.amazon.com.au/Cygnett-ChargeUp-20000-USB-C-Power/dp/B0763H3GMV

After looking I think a power supply might be the best route. I’m no electrician, though. Would something like this work?

Or would I need something like this and run wire to each?

I have a big power strip (that exact one with the transformer sockets) mounted to the bottom of my desk for everything permanent, computer, monitor, lamp, etc, then you could use a popup outlet for temporary things and your network cables. Problem is, those get really expensive when you add in the RJ45 jacks. If you want to do it cheaper you could just use some cat6 extensions with a small power strip.

In addition what others have said, you may also consider a Transfer Switch...

Provides reliable, redundant rack mount power to single-corded equipment. The rack ATS has dual input power cords supplying power to the connected load. If the primary power source becomes unavailable, the rack ATS will seamlessly source power from the secondary source without interrupting critical loads. The Rack ATS has built-in network connectivity, which allows for remote management via Web, SNMP, or Telnet interfaces.

• http://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/categories/power-distribution/transfer-switches/rack-mount-transfer-switches/N-1eg32mv
  
• https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-MBP20A6-Maintenance-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B01615H1AE/
  

I just ordered a pair of these;
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-11-Outlet-Rackmount-Distribution-AP6020/dp/B011M7EBMW

They are solid, simple, and have standard plugs.
The square connector on yours is the same as this, and it is because it supports up to 20A rather than the normal 15A of the load side (c13/c14)

https://www.amazon.com/Liebert-1000VA-Online-Double-Conversion-GXT4-1000RT120/dp/B00UH3NLSS

Motherboard/CPU is Asrock Q1900M, chosen for being cheap ($60 motherboard + CPU), ultra low power, compatible with normal desktop RAM, having 3 PCIe slots, and USB3:

https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Q1900M/

I reused a Supermicro SC760 case I've been using since the 1990s, which is great in that it has 6 5.25" bays:

http://www.servercase.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/SC760-f45-300.gif

3 of these, which I've been using for well over 10 years now, provide 9 3.5" hotswap bays:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NMAZU0

I actually pulled one of the above bays out and replaced it with this similar 2.5" bay just a month or two ago, when I also swapped out 5 3.5" HDs for 4 2.5" SSDs:

https://www.newegg.com/icy-dock-mb326sp-b-6-x-2-5-sata-6gbps-sas-hdd-ssd-mobile-rack-cage-in-1-x-5-25-bay/p/N82E16817198068?Item=N82E16817198068

DDR3 RAM was just whatever I had lying around from old PCs

Power supply is just some cheap 430W unit. Total system draw is well under 100 watts under full load.

The 3 PCIe slots have 3 of these, providing 12 SATA ports (plus the motherboard has 2 built in for a total of 16):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU

Power for the backups array (which is all external USB drives) is controlled by an ancient APC AP9222 coupled with an APC Masterswitch VM controller and AP9606 SNMP card. I can power the outlets on and off with the "snmpset" command in linux, so backups is basically just a shell script. Turn on power, wait 60 seconds, mount filesystem run backup, unmount filesystem, wait 60 seconds, power off.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-AP9222-Masterswitch-Power-Distribution/dp/B00MHGEXAS

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Lot-of-2-APC-Master-Switch-VM-Controller-w-AP9606-Web-SNMP-Management-no-Mounts-/152096619740

That's really great to hear and a tremendous burden lifted - I'm happy for you. Thanks for letting us know; I really felt your pain!

Where does the HDMI come into play. Are you not going from your Interface to speakers with TRS cables?

Also, for safety sake, get yourself a real conditioner, or real surge protection and run your grounds together, through it. If you have a surge, the surge will travel down all wires and always finds the the one source that is hasn't protection, i.e. an ethernet cable, running into your system, an HDMI from an additional monitor that's running into your computer and may have your cable TV running into it (another source). It's a binary choice: all in or no protection, as there really isn't an in-between.

Panamax (Furman's Consumer Line) offers ones with greater variety of protection, such as ethernet, and offers wonderful protection from a surge and conditions your power.. Other trusted brands include Triplite and API. Many even warranty your equipment from surges if you use their products as directed. Cheap insurance! THIS one is basic and only $52, will not condition your power, but is really protection and WILL protect your products, if you follow the guide lines included.

If you have a power conditioner, but have unprotected Ethernet running into your studio system, THIS is just to protect the ethernet part of the equation.

Hope this helps.

Mr-Mud

oh, a PDU, not a "power switch", my bad. This is what I run: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDUH20HVL6/dp/B004P3X4ZQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520706485&sr=8-3&keywords=L6-20+PDU

> best way to connect my power supplies to the 220 V

2 x 20A PDU's - https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDUH20HVL6/dp/B004P3X4ZQ/

You'll need 2 L6-20 receptacles obviously.

> I was also thinking of wiring the 220V into 110V at the receptacle box.

I don't think that's allowed in the 'code', but I could be wrong.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VQMTKO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511841268&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=CyberPower+PDU30MVHVT20F+L6-30P+200%2F230+30A+20-Outlets+RM+0U+Metered+Power+Distribution+Unit&dpPl=1&dpID=31yNJv8JHRL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1511841347255

This is the PDU we use. It's about 30 to 40 more than the others, but my tech guy likes the gauges on it to measure power output.

When you get it, it will not plug into a normal 240volt outlet setup. We literally change the cord plugins on the PDU to a 240volt plug. Any electrician can do it in less than 5 mins, or you can do it with a wire stripper and a screw driver in literally 10 mins

So I could upgrade to 30a breaker. Install 1x nema L6-30p or 30r receptacle? Discription for the pdu says it has a L6-30p twist lock. Then connect this pdu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VQMTKO/ref=asc_df_B003VQMTKO5414953/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B003VQMTKO&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194017009123&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6516944376130781886&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028903&hvtargid=pla-309635873696 to the receptacle then I'm good to go for up to 24a worth of miners which on 220v should be 3x? The pic for the power cable on the pdu looks to be a normal 3 prong a.c. plug.

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-PDU30BHVT8R-8-Outlets-L6-30P-Distribution/dp/B003KBIEGS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512008177&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=cyberpower+pdu+30a+20+outlets+240v


https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511358750&sr=8-3&keywords=16+port+switch


Still not sure about the power cord from the APW++ to the PDU C14-c13
APW++ if you cant read in the photo, sorry.



I will be running 3 s9's off each 240v cicuit

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