(Part 2) Best pry bars according to redditors
We found 265 Reddit comments discussing the best pry bars. We ranked the 86 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-41500-Tweaker-Multi-Use/dp/B0000224U8
Mayhew 61366 Dominator Pry Bar Set, Curved, 5-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WZOJFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-n9NDbM2BYEKY
Worth their weight in gold.
I carry a mini crowbar in my work bag. I have a larger one in my bug-out bag and just like having that functionality on me.
Man, that prybar is so clutch. I just looked for about 2 hours after seeing this post and there's just nothing on the market like it that's even in the same ballpark for price. Not to mention that particular item is sold out. Great piece, and I'm glad you get a lot of use out if it.
For those curious, this is the closest thing I could find but it seems impractical with that shape...
Amazon link
There's also this but it's just so plain and no bottle opener...what are we savages?
Amazon link
Edit:fixed links
I actually do pallet woodworking, at my local town municipal dump someone throws regularly oak pallets away which I made into standing raised garden beds and stuff. It would be hard to make this out of pallet wood since each board is not exactly flat or milled the same thickness.
If you are into pallet wood stuff though there are two tools that you absolutely need.
https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-SKB-DLX-Deluxe-Pallet-Buster/dp/B00JH41U7M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480654438&sr=8-2&keywords=pallet+buster
https://www.amazon.com/Air-locker-professional-Nailer-Remover/dp/B003X2QM3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480654464&sr=8-1&keywords=nail+gun+remover
The pallet buster pulls the boards off the wood with the nails and the nail gun hits it out. It makes it a lot quicker and keeps the boards intact versus sawzall or crowbar.
It really depends on the nail, and how firming embedded it is in the wood. In theory it's possible to do a minimal amount of damage with a very thin pry bar, and then use a cat's paw on a hammer. This tool is guaranteed to cause damage, while the other approach may, or maybe not cause damage.
Currently I do industrial pipe insulating and sheet metal structures in the oilfield. Before that it was carpentry mostly focusing on renovations. Doing just about anything I've found that [these little beauties](https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-17005-Stainless-Scraper/dp/B000OECQOK /ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H3CJA5DYY13VCZT0V4DD&dpID=31i8ZTofddL&preST=_SX300QL70&dpSrc=detail) (I believe they're called glazing bars) are the handiest tool in my belt. Tile setting, masonry, shingles, siding, windows, drywall etc... Everything seems to go a little smoother with one of these.
Yes. Also, protective eyewear. Flying shards can draw blood.
Edit: This is probably my favorite tool for demo work: FatMax Wrecking Bar. It's heavy and rigid. They also have it at Home Depot, maybe Lowes.
As long as he includes a tool to open said wooden box.
Lol, that's actually similar to how I got into commerical safes. New safes start around $5k, but even relitively new used safes can be purchased for a few hundred bucks. It's really amazing how much they depreciate the moment that they get installed and their bottom touches the ground. So few people know how to move them that they just end up being next to impossible to sell when they are sitting on the ground. All you need is a johnson bar, a pallet jack, and a few piece of scrap lumber and you can slowly shimmy the safe up onto the pieces of scrap lumber. Once you got the entire safe up on top of the lumber you just slide a pallet jack underneath and away you go. Just get it onto a box truck with a lift gate or if the safe is big enough rent a piggyback. The biggest safe that I've purchased and flipped weighed 3,850 lbs TL-30. Between my friend and I we each made off with a $1k in profit after we got it back home and sold on eBay.
My personal safe is only a modest 2,000 lbs TL-30 that I replaced the combination lock with a nice electronic lock and built a custom interior for guns. The safe door is 1-1/4" of plate steel and the rest of the body is 1" plate.
https://www.amazon.com/FIXFANS-Plastic-Housing-Battery-Disassemble/dp/B07DQLZM1M
This thing. Or guitar pick, or something like that. Basically you pry open the top (carefully not to rip flex cables). Then pull off joystick cap (carefully not to rip flex cables). Then you put a tiny speck of toilet paper/tinfoil/whatever to the hole in the cap. Put the cap back, and put the top of the controller back.
ergonomics like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vertex-EBE-4000-WristSaver-Shrub/dp/B00015UPV8
Also this is what I use to hoe between bulb onions and other close plants. the Wrist support reduces fatigue. So I get more work done.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-525-15-inch-Super-Wonder/dp/B00002X22U
The yellow part is the hoe end and the little curve fulcrum part is what I hold in my hand and the straight nail puller end is against my forearm.
To answer his question on removing the oil pan. These thin pry bars work pretty good.
Titan Tools 17009 4Piece Stainless Steel Pry bar Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079YPFRBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bfwACbNFVHM0P
Been doing renovations for the past few months and here are some of the tools that have been used the most in our situations.
If you're going to be doing any demo work, do yourself a favor and pick up a large and small prybar. That smaller prybar is sometimes my go to tool (hammer, scraper, prybar, nail puller).
A scraper/spreader of some sort has proved itself invaluable in many a painting project.
Something that's recently been quite useful are locking pliers.
Get yourself a good pair of mechanics gloves. Not these. Not these. THESE. They're form-fitting to your hand and fingers which allow more control & precision (like loosening a bolt in a hard-to-reach spot) without sacrificing safety (like a hammer swing or a stray pry).
Finally, my everyday carry pocket knife has done a heap of work during renovations. It's always on me, I don't have to stop what I'm doing to look for a tool, just cut/pry/dig/scrape/trim/etc.
Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun working on those projects!
lol, oh yeah, your feet are in the pic.
Shape the head to look like these: https://www.amazon.ca/Mayhew-Tools-60150-3-Piece-Lady/dp/B0000T4UO8
Depends solely on the tool. I'm not tool band loyal
These tools are the ones I carry on me and use most of the time :
T-handle hex : Klein
Nut drivers : Klein Tools 647 Cushion-Grip Nut Driver Set with 6-Inch Shanks (7-Piece)
Ratcheting wrenches : GearWrench 9509 13-Piece SAE Reversible Combination Ratcheting Wrench Set hard to beat for the price)
Screwdriver pry bar set: Mayhew 61355 Dominator Screwdriver Pry Bar Set, Curved, 3-Piece
Adjustable wrenches: Klein Tools D50710 Adjustable Wrench with Extra Capactity, 10-Inch and Knipex
Diagonal cutters: Knipex 7401200SBA 8-Inch High Leverage Diagonal Cutters
Pliers: Knipex 8701180 7-1/4-Inch Cobra Pliers
Ball peen hammer : Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce
And I carry them all in my veto bag
Harbor freight: toolbox , punches, and allen set
Just need one of these:
Vestil PLB/S-5 Prylever Bar, Steel, 5' Length, 5000 lbs Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027YIPAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k.7lDbN13YH2Q
Combine that with a few dollies and it'll be out of your house in a few minutes.
already left the shop for the day. but its just one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3352-Pry-Bar-4-Piece/dp/B000NPR2Z8/
bent into a candy cane shape with a notch that goes to the bottom of the J. That way you can use the edge of the prybar to get some lever action on the new curve you put into it, then once it starts moving, slide it down a little and jerk it out.
Call a local tranny shop and ask if they have one you could borrow, if you dont want to make your own.
Like others have said, I would use those tools until they break or you find that a better version is worth buying. Since you're here asking for direction, I'm guessing you're not entirely sure what sort of jobs you'll be doing and it's hard to recommend particular tools without knowing that.
That said, I have a few comments:
If you're planning on working on on your car at all you will need a set of wrenches. You will also probably find that the socket set you have is missing some sizes.
A small drywall/putty knife, a sanding block, and a mini paint roller will let you repair drywall and paint. I find this is one of the things I do most often in the rental houses I've lived in.
A screwdriver, pliers, and multimeter would let you do electrical repair, but if you're new to this you should probably stay away from that as it's easy to hurt yourself or start a fire. The multimeter is also great for troubleshooting electrical issues in vehicles (eg. dead batteries, switches not working, etc.)
A cordless drill is another one of my most commonly used tools. Ridgid and Ryobi are two decent homeowner grade power tool brands, but you would probably just fine with a harbor freight one too.
I use my mini-prybar a lot too. That's the one I have but a cheaper one would work just as well.
You sure it is not screwed in?
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I just demoed alot of built in shelves to make room for a bathroom addition I am doing.
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You usually destroy one or the other.
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You can try using some of these. You want to make sure you pry between the frame and a stud. But you still might crush in some drywall. Which you can usually fix pretty easy. But it is hard to make it look original. ( that is a art)
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https://www.amazon.com/Warner-Molding-Removal-Painters-10350A/dp/B000I1QEGA/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=trim%2Bpuller&qid=1563803845&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1
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https://www.amazon.com/Lamson-40945-Trade-Moulding-Removal/dp/B076FHQNHJ/ref=sr_1_38?keywords=trim+puller&qid=1563803871&s=gateway&sr=8-38
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https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Pro-Claw-Moulding-Puller/dp/B004397VEW/ref=sr_1_43?keywords=trim+puller&qid=1563803871&s=gateway&sr=8-43
Tools to buy today
Knipex 8701250 10-Inch Cobra Pliers
[Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H1LLFFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RJnQCb4SE5G75)
[Mayhew 61355 Dominator Screwdriver Pry Bar Set, Curved, 3-Piece] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000T4URU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CSnQCbKKNE6HK) you'll carry the small one in your pouch, you'll keep the other 2 in your toolbox. You'll learn to love prybars on this job.
Did you try grinding a slot in them? You can then use a huge ass crowbar to turn it -- wedge the 90-degree end in the slot.
A torch and liquid wrench might help too.
I have a tiny pry bar that I've been using:
https://www.amazon.com/samcomorg-MINI-PRY-CROW-BAR/dp/B000NPN74S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467008957&sr=8-3&keywords=tiny+crowbar
You might also need to pick up a tiny hammer to go along with it (usually I use a rock if I need to hammer it in), but it's been working out well for me so far!
Jeez. Picky picky picky. Try this one. https://www.amazon.com/Hundred-D070204-Kiki-Titanium-Lanyard/dp/B0788R3T4C
A sharpened Stanley Super Wonder Bar would do quite nicely.
Pallet buster and a "punch nailer" were my best $100 spent for tearing pallets apart. Literally cut my time by like 80%. The punch nailer requires an air compressor, but super worth it. Shoot the nails into a bucket with a hole cut in the lid and some water in the bucket.
You'll have so many boards you won't know what to do with them all. It takes all the work out of it. It'll also make you more picky when it comes to your pallets.
https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-SKB-DLX-Deluxe-Pallet-Buster/dp/B00JH41U7M/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=pallet+buster&qid=1562785117&s=gateway&sprefix=pallet+&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Air-Locker-Nailer-Remover-Driver/dp/B01H5RNHPA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=punch+nailer&qid=1562785154&s=gateway&sr=8-3
So you can hit them? I think you might be looking for a "striking pry bar set" instead?
Mayhew 61366 Dominator Pry Bar Set, Curved, 5-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WZOJFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rcGDybNRF3C4B
I'm a finish carpenter and I use this flat bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ELVK9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1A3GDbVA1R6CZ and this pry bar with cats claw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004397VEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vC3GDbC0SCEYA
Those two tools have been so useful to me. But there's also no replacement for a large 18-24 inch crowbar/flatbar when the job calls for it.
knee pads bro. I've done this. This tool works great, pair of pliers, hammer, etc. Pull them all out. If you have to nail it in (some you will have to), you have to countersink it. Use a large hand scraper to scrape the floor as you move along to make sure you got all the staples, nails, etc.
One of these guys, his skinnier little brother, and this fella. You can get into or out of just about anywhere with those three.
I am not condoning burglary or breaking and entering but having the ability to get through locked doors and windows or other hard to reach places might be the difference between life and death.
My own weird little carry is a mini crow-bar which I keep in my work bag. It's come in handy for, amongst other things, shoe-horning my ex-gfs extremely tight boots back on.
Ever seen one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-41500-Tweaker-Multi-Use/dp/B0000224U8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Works a lot better for trying to twist studs in place.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-3352-Pry-Bar-4-Piece/dp/B000NPR2Z8/
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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
TEKTON 3323 12-Inch Wrecking Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY8P32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DjTYDb2R89P3V