Best puller sets according to redditors
We found 34 Reddit comments discussing the best puller sets. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 34 Reddit comments discussing the best puller sets. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I would use more heat, and employ a bearing puller.
And then I would throw away that bearing and use a new one. I doubt you need to replace the case.
This is a good example of why it's super important to keep the bearing square to the hole and use a proper bearing driver to insert it.
A mouthpiece puller, looks really similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/Generic-5366-Bobcat-Mouthpiece-Puller/dp/B0002DUQC2
Source: Parents were music teachers, used to have a bunch around the house
You’re going to want a bearing puller with really slim jaws. Do not pry unless you find a way to leverage off the wheels not the windings. Wd40 won’t help because it is formulated to displace water. Get a penetrant for stuck bolts. Heat would be great but it would probably melt the varnish on the windings.
Here’s what you’re looking for. Thin jaw puller:
amazon link
Source: i do this for a living
Update: link didn’t work. I don’t do that for a living
I've taken my Tein fronts out a couple times to grease them so I'm familiar with the process at this point.
Consider a pitman arm puller for the tie rod ends, it makes that part of the process go stupid fast. I got this one from Autozone for $12. Might pick up a $2 box of cotter pins because those tend to break and you don't want to go back out for that dumb little part. Also when you use the puller leave the castle nut on the end of the tie rod to avoid damaging the threaded portion.
Get the shop manual (you can find it on crsx) it'll have procedures and torques.
This helped me:
(https://www.kseriesparts.com/gp/SSIICO.html)
From memory:
Get a solid two arm Pittman arm puller. Works like a champ.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FEPCFA?pc_redir=1405522959&robot_redir=1
Michigan resident here. We deal with horrible rusting situations that can make auto repair absolutely miserable.
An impact gun is critical for seized parts. The hammering action actually breaks up the rust which comes in really handy on something like an exhaust manifold nut. I have a Dewalt 20v lithium impact gun for portability, but it doesn’t even come close to pneumatic tools in terms of sheer torque.
I use an oxy acetylene torch for most work on or around the underbody. PB blaster is great for people outside of the salt belt, but it can’t loosen severely rusted parts. For something like an outer tie rod, I have to get the lock nut glowing red before I can break it loose with an impact – it’s that bad.
For your situation, I have a rotor and drum puller tool. It WILL remove any rotor or drum. I’ve had more than one rotor actually snap in two pieces. It obviously destroys the rotor, but at least it’s off lol.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6980-Heavy-Brake-Puller/dp/B004CGOGFS
OTC 4579 9-Way Slide Hammer Puller Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DMNIS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Tmw1xbVQ17QPE
Where's the axle stuck? If it's stuck in the transmission or on an intermediate shaft, they make an adapter to kinda cup around the back of the inner housing.
If it's stuck in the hub, they come with a center bolt to help press it inward (put the cone on the hub, then the bolt through it onto the end of the axle). They can't really apply a ton of pressure though. In my experience, if an air hammer won't get it, I need to remove the knuckle and use the shop press.
I wouldn't recommend the HF slide hammer though. HF is $70 (before coupon) but the OTC is $85. HF has 90 day warranty and OTC has lifetime warranty.
So anyway, the problem is that the HF uses a weird thread so you can't use those other attachments that are pretty much standardized to use the OTC thread. So bearing pullers and that axle puller and whatever other attachment can't be used with the HF, and HF may not make all of the attachments you need.
Also, the OTC comes with an additional size hub thing, which is the most common part you'll use.
The HF hub adapter is pretty weak also. Everyone I know that's had one ended up breaking that piece in half. This is my HF that I ended up replacing with the OTC that's been problem free for 10+ years; I probably use it once every month or two.
Picked this up.
OTC 7509 Inner CV Joint Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O825QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5K6AbE1RPD81
Seems like the easiest solution.
I have this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/WHDZ-Repair-Damage-Removal-Hammer/dp/B01H88XOOK/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=pdr%2Btools&qid=1551303667&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1
In your case, I think you just might need the dent puller tool instead :https://www.amazon.com/Super-PDR-Bridge-Puller-Removal/dp/B07B9ZLG1D/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=pdr+tools&qid=1551303850&s=gateway&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1
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If you can find some old car that has dents on it, I recommend you practice on it if you plan to use the little dent pushers. Watch some videos as well on PDR tools too.
The best tool is a slide-hammer with an axle adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7509-Inner-Joint-Puller/dp/B000O825QU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KFabO3-1C8
Autozone has tools to lend including a slide hammer, not sure about the axle adapter part.
Can I use this for the front?
Automotive Universal Joint Puller - Tiger Tool 10105 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN4NV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V1yxzbP3FTSA6
Thanks. That's good to know. The stinger is supposed to be their lesser line. I guess it's pretty good.
I was looking at the higher end line version the silver slapper
OTC (1179) Silver Slapper 8-Way Slide Hammer Puller Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SLWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Evw1xbK8MP3BT
Buy a nut that fits those bolts and rent/borrow a sliding hammer from a car parts store (the ones in my city let you have it for a day with credit card on file for damages). Put the nut on the bolt, grab it with the sliding hammer jaws, proceed to hammer it out.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Genteq-Motors-6005-Evergreen-ECM-Replacement-for-PSC-Blower-Motor-1-2-1-3-1-4-HP-1070-RPM-115-230V
https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B012P0QV5K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542231187&sr=8-3&keywords=hub+puller+tool
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34QoMOHhd3g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6wQAACaUcQ
Bobcat mouthpiece puller--it's a life saver. You can find it here among other places.
The first thing I would do after getting the mouthpiece un-stuck would be to take all the slides and the valves out and dip that baby (slides and all, but NOT the valves. You can hand-wash those, avoiding the felts obviously) in a tub of warm water and gentle dish soap. Let it soak, scrub the tubing out with a soft brush and then towel-dry with a soft towel. When it's been cleaned out, then you can use a polishing cloth on it that pertains to the finish of it. They make polishing cloths for lacquered brass, as well as ones that work for silver-plated. Just make sure you get the right one.
Just going to throw this out here.
Pit Posse PP1692 Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Remover
There are many import versions of these, quality is as functional as the MP or other name brands. I actually consider these to be a disposable tool as they will suffer wear over the years. I once had a complete MP set, I now have a import set as the last time i needed to replace the driver handle and 3 arbors, it was just as expensive & got a case out of it.
Generally I have found having the correct size for the bearing makes a big difference. 19mm puller for 19mm bearing....
This is especially true when you last used a say a 20mm to drive out a 24mm(assuming your set skips 21-24). The puller gets splayed out and becomes more difficult to use again on smaller bearings. It also causes more damage on the arbor both in where you drive the wedge and on the portion that contacts the bearing.
Buy a import set, fill in the odd skipped sizes you need and replace as they wear out. For a DIYer, you might wear one or 2 out if you do all your freinds wheels too.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-5366-Bobcat-Mouthpiece-Puller/dp/B0002DUQC2
Fucking this!! Keep it with you at all times. You could even start charging your fellow band members if you feel like branching out.
Try this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEPCFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It doesn't always work depending on the size of your crank arm, but you can measure yours and the measurements for a tool like that are on amazon.
I just loosened the crank arm bolts and put this on them to get them moving.
If you are using Park Tool BB30.3, you need to be careful, like using rubber mallet. CAAD8 so it's alu shell so you can be a bit more harsh but be gentle.
If it's not coming out, I haven't tried it but the linear bearing puller is said to work.
https://www.amazon.com/FIT-TOOLS-Arm-Bearing-Puller/dp/B013WLBDOK/ref=pd_sbs_263_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013WLBDOK&pd_rd_r=VJRCVX7WMBBFF7HZSCJ9&pd_rd_w=exiGG&pd_rd_wg=9kThP&psc=1&refRID=VJRCVX7WMBBFF7HZSCJ9
Could be a brake drum puller.
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Here's a similar design.
https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B012P0QV5K
If you’ve got a local bike shop they MAY have one you could borrow. Otherwise I’d buy it from Amazon or directly from Park Tool.
https://www.amazon.com/PARK-TOOL-CCP-44-Crank-Puller/dp/B07CB7Q4FK
I also forgot to mention about removing that rotor. Check if it has two small threaded holes near between the lug nut studs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOqTd3qbMiw
If that doesn't work you might try one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6980-Heavy-Brake-Puller/dp/B004CGOGFS
Also, a valve-stem puller is hugely helpful, packs down small, and weighs hardly anything:
http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Tire-Valve-Stem-Pullers/dp/B002KR38WS
I used this puller when removing the inner shaft from a Camry. Worked like a charm. I also was able to reverse the hooks and use it to pull out the old oil seals.
FYI, the screw that you're looking at is probably the end of a slide hammer ... Chryslers are notoriously easy to steal this way. I had a customer who got so sick of her Neon being stolen that she asked us to leave the ignition switch broken and just wire up a couple of hidden switches to start it.
Here is one but it would be cheaper to buy a new stepper motor and gear.
You could use an arbor press and a grooved plate but most people don't have one hanging out in the garage. Take the motor off and use a lighter/torch to heat it. If it sizzles when you wet it you are above 100C. The motor can probably handle higher temps for a short period. At this point you don't have much to lose.
Will this work?http://www.amazon.com/E-Flite-Gear-Puller-1mm-5mm-Shaft/dp/B000BQ5AYE/ref=sr_1_4/192-7815117-4609054?ie=UTF8&qid=1404873251&sr=8-4&keywords=pinion+puller
It is a hub puller; most mechanics have one. Here is a newer version:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7394-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B0002SRH60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368203560&sr=8-1&keywords=hub+puller
A mouthpiece puller
Looks like could be different weights for a slide hammer similar to this slide hammer