Best reptile & amphibian habitat plants according to redditors

We found 54 Reddit comments discussing the best reptile & amphibian habitat plants. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Reptile & Amphibian Habitat Plants:

u/Ephemeral_Halcyon · 29 pointsr/BeforeNAfterAdoption

I just wanted to say-- thank you so much for taking time to learn about betta's and not just go off of what the general population seems to think.

One additional suggestion-- make sure that any plants you offer are either silky or live plants. The plastic ones will tear up their fins. You can often find nicer silky ones in the reptile sections of pet stores or Amazon rather than the fish. Like this one for example. It also offers lots of hidey space, which betta love!

The hanging /suction cup silk plants in the reptile section could also be neat, though I've never used them in a tank personally. It might be cool to have a plant sort of trailing down in a corner.

They definitely should have a filter, but make sure it's not too strong of one. You might be better with an under gravel filter or two small filters. Also-- make sure you buy a temperature gauge. You want to check regularly to make sure the heater is still working properly-- 75-80F water always feels cool to the skin so it's hard to tell.

u/Major017 · 5 pointsr/geckos

Exo Terra Plastic Terrarium Plant, Large, Mandarin

Tried and true.

Also, ditch the gauges, they’re wildly inaccurate.

u/jjhill001 · 3 pointsr/snakes

Welcome to the reptile community!

Personally for me if you aren't gonna use a heatpad/thermostat combo I would go with say a 60-75 watt ceramic heat emitter/thermostat combo. The ceramic heat emitter will push out heat but no light so you can use it in conjunction with a thermostat and it never has to be turned off.

You're gonna want your temps near your heat source to be around 83-86 F or so (if it's off a 1 or 2 degrees don't worry about it) the rest of the tank can hover in the low to mid 70's.

You are gonna want some more stuff going on in the tank. Probably another hide on the other side of the tank. I prefer to provide as many hides as possible, however in a tank this size you're probably gonna be limited to 2 which will work. However a way to sort of clutter it up and make the snake more comfortable is to get some fake vines that you can either suction cup around the edges or just leave in a loose pile in the terrarium.

Something like this, it's 6 ft long so you can have some hanging, some laying on the ground of the terrarium. It's just extra clutter to make the snake feel more secure.

Unlike some of the other users I think that size of hide is fine. The way it's constructed allows the snake to get tight in it under the lip of the opening, you can stuff it with some sphagnum moss or bedding to make it a little more secure if you want to.

Other than that, with corn snakes just make sure your lid is secure and you make sure your humidity is alright, usually ambient house humidity (40-65%) is fine for these guys but when it get ready to shed (eyes will turn blue) you're gonna want to mist it with water to up the humidity a little bit until the shed is over.

You're gonna have fun with your snake and once again welcome to the community.

u/elenacarvell · 3 pointsr/ballpython

These are really great to drape around branches and whatnot. The leaves are big so they produce a lot of cover. Just be careful because sometimes the wire will poke through the plastic coating if your snake is the trampling type and it’s fking sharp so check for that regularly if you get them! I just trim the wire off and wrap some HVAC tape around the spot.

Fluker's Repta Vines-Pothos for Reptiles and Amphibians

u/Saurena · 3 pointsr/CrestedGecko
u/JustAnotherElsen · 3 pointsr/leopardgeckos

If you wanna stick to a carpeting still, they have this like, “mossy” carpet that’s actually a lot softer! Amazon has it on prime too! Exo Terra Moss Mat, 20 gallon

u/Neversun · 3 pointsr/snakes

Well, if he is starting to become lethargic, it is usually not due to the snake not having enough mental stimulation (though I do believe they require it to some extent, they don't need puzzles or toys like dogs, and people will keep and breed large snakes that are kept with no furnishings at all). It is wintertime and males especially are funky during this time- your boy looks like he has an adult's head shape and at 5 and 1/2 ft, I bet he's probably preoccupied wishing there were some ladies in there with him. Make sure your temps and humidity are proper as well- you can respond with them if you want- because winter temp drops sometimes cause lethargy in animals as well. Especially when most boa species do not require a cooling period to breed successfully, and you don't sound like you intend to breed him, making sure his ambient temperatures haven't dropped is important.

However, temp and breeding isn't the only possible cause of lethargy- if you haven't gotten him a checkup at the vet recently, and you continue to see decreased activity cycles, I would suggest seeing a vet. x5000 if your snake is also wheezing, blowing bubbles, or has anything else "out of the norm"- but it doesn't sound like it.

What I've found works best for larger snakes is to just give up on commercial reptile products. Most of those are directed at the overwhelming ball python/corn snake/other small pet snake buyers. A 5.5ft male boa will still enjoy the largest of their stuff, but it's not worth the money, imo, when you can build bigger better stuff for way cheaper. The vines and such are more for decoration- your snake really doesn't care if it has leaves everywhere or not, as long as he has a secure place to hide himself away. I personally tend not to decorate my enclosures with many green plastic plants because a) I'm cheap, and b) I could use that space in the enclosure for something more dynamic. I do however definitely love and suggest live planting an enclosure if you are interested in something like that, because it provides cover and interesting climbing opportunities.

What I do is buy a few pieces of cork bark for a new enclosure, or a big tube. These are pretty cheap on amazon. and look good, come with fake moss on top sometimes so it adds a more naturalistic element to the enclosure. Then I usually collect wood- sticks for the smaller snakes, and for yours, maybe saw several branches to size for him. Ones with large forks he can rest in are usually really nice. I usually then thoroughly wash the wood in a mixture of water and bleach (ratio as you would for your own toys/plates/whatever), let it soak for a few hours, then rinse and dry in the sun. Additionally I then bake the wood pieces on a low temp (~200-250F) for a little bit and watch them, so that anything else is killed off. You can then screw these together with a drill to create a cool climbing structure (would recommend screwing (haha) one or two for support so he can climb on them safely and not just have sticks braced against the wall), or just put them in there and arrange as you will. PLEASE be sure they are VERY secure- screwing in or adding little guides or rails on the wall they're leaning on would be good and is sometimes what i do so they can't shift. Your platform looks really precarious if it isn't all glued together, because snakes can and will knock shit over and more often than not, get stuck beneath them.

I'd definitely agree with getting rid of that platform, but you could definitely build a smaller one he would probably use more, especially with more sticks leading up to it and other things. You won't be able to find vines that will support him except perhaps several of these knotted/braided together.

Also, feel free to respond with other enclosure specifications- I don't mean to criticize and it isn't related to your original question, but oftentimes red bulbs are used constantly and as the only source of heat, and for a boa, not good. Do you have a source of belly heat as well, or another method of heating it? He also looks like he's getting too big for that enclosure, and if you're wanting to put in the effort to make him happy and healthy, a larger enclosure would benefit him greatly too. :)

u/kyree2 · 3 pointsr/Austin

As a former tree frog owner I am really loving these posts. :) I would totally get them a silk plant vine that will stick right on the window (like this: ). They like to stick on the leaves, and it can also provide them shade from the harsh sun. They also need to absorb water through their skin, so you can spray them down or get a little terrarium bowl of water for them to soak in. You can get Reptisafe drops to treat the water at any pet store. Just throwing out some ideas to help make a nice environment for them.. who knows you may end up with more frog friends!

u/Dexter_Jettster · 2 pointsr/Chameleons

First, let me share with you my little/HUGE hiccup I put myself and my chams through the last month.

I had to leave Florida in a hurry, and I had time to take my two boys' enclosures apart, and in my rush, I forgot their lighting (at least $180, easily), their supplements (Pfft, the ones I had weren't the best, but that was at least another $15), their live plants (which I wouldn't have taken them in the car anyway, but there's another $25), and then their fake vines and bendable vines ($37), total? $257, and why I know that is because I had to pull from all of my resources to make sure they had this set up today, and here is another view. BTW, THE PLANTS THAT I GOT THEM ARE TOO SMALL! But, they have them, and it's better than nothing at all.

Mind you, I'm talking about two chameleons, but what I had to spend to make sure that they were set up for this winter (I moved to Washington state), I had to do it, otherwise, I'm s shitty cham owner. I'm lucky there was already a humidifier here because I'm going to need that as the air is dry here and my Panther chameleon has already proven to be susceptible to respiratory infection as we took a trip to the vet this past year to get him some Baytril (antibiotic/oral), cost to the vet? $76.

I'm going to do a break down of everything that you're going to need for your Male Jackson (which I recommend that you start with a male Veiled. The Veiled are so much more heartier, they can take more abuse from a new owner, more forgiving for a better word..., I DO NOT suggest a Jackson for a first cham, and for that matter, someone who has never owned a reptile in their life). Anyway, here I go...

Set up:

  • Repti-Breeze 24 x 24 x 48" enclosure $115
  • Zoo Med t5 UVB hood, and this is the cheapest I found $50
  • Zoo Med 5.0 24" bulb $29
  • Live safe plant, I'm just going with an Umbrella for now... $15
  • Fake vines, just one set $5
  • Plant like vine, one set $10
  • Repashy supplements $10

    Your total there is at $234, and you haven't bought the chameleon yet, but that is everything that you should have BEFORE you get your cham... Also, you're going to need...

  • Feeders
  • Food for feeders (low acid fruits and veggies, apples, carrots, dark fruits/veggies, etc. High acid fruits and veggies will kill your feeders faster)
  • Container for the feeders to live, basically, you have additional pets to take care of. You HAVE TO TAKE CARE OF THE FEEDERS!
  • Clear water glass to provide water for your cham

    Because you are new to this, having a temp/humidity gauge is something you might want to get as an aid to getting use to what their living environment should be like... so that's another $8

    Prices my vary, depending on where you get all of your things. Getting stuff online can be cheaper, I randomly picked stuff on the internet and think I did pretty good for you, but you're looking at a nice little chunk of change just to make sure that you have the right set up to bring your cham home to, and I do hope that you'll take that and roll with it.

    If you've NEVER OWNED A REPTILE BEFORE, I actually suggest that you start with something else. Bearded Dragons are awesome, AWESOME, reps, THOUGH, they are totally different than the care for a cham, it's a great way to start, and Dragons are even more hearty than a Veiled chameleon.

    LASTLY, read through EVERYTHING on the sidebar -------------->

    I would also avoid a lot of information that you'll find on the internet, and YES!!! That includes that one web site that probably is the first choice for you to go to when you're looking for chameleon advice. That site is horrible, save yourself the heartache, I started there, and I quickly learned that the site is a hot mess. There is never a straight and same consistent answer, too many myths, just no...

    Hope all that helps, and thank all of the coffee I drank today. Lol! Good luck and welcome to the sub.
u/JustOneAndDone · 2 pointsr/snakes

I'm a new snake owner (5 days to be exact) I have somewhat a similar setup and it was around $200/$250 for everything including the snake. A few tips I was given was.

-Let the snake settle in for a few days
-Replace water daily or at least every other day
-Handle it every so often (after it settles in)
-create like a tunnel under the bedding with a cardboard paper towel roll

And something I would definitely recommend is fake leaves that suction cup to the side of the tank. My baby black corn snake LOVES climbing them. I was told new corn snakes are usually timid and scared but she just climbs them and stays there all night long.

u/hollowlaughter · 2 pointsr/snakes

Looks like it's one of the coated wire variety, like so:

They're strong enough to support smaller snakes free-standing since it uses a lower-gauge (thicker) wire as the core. Just twist it around into a sturdy shape and you're good to go.

u/sumochicken · 2 pointsr/reptiles

I got them with the enclosure, but i looked around and this seems the be the plant in the front.


u/hWatchMod · 2 pointsr/CrestedGecko

I recently ordered and put this vine in the tank and my crested loves it.

u/hghquality · 2 pointsr/snakes

Thank you for responding! I really want to know what I can do to help my snake, as I've been worried something is wrong..... I made a list with the exact things that I have bought!

I have this terrarium

and this heating mat on one half (covers around 40% of the tank)

with this thermometer that controls the heat (max is 93 F) and cool side is 75-80

and i made a humidity box (as shown by Youtube account SnakeEncounters) with this moss that I spray to make humid- I have seen my snake in there twice now, she likes to sleep there for a couple hours and leave.

and I use this hide (one on cool side, one on warm side)

and this bedding

and I use these vines to make the enclosure feel more covered and less "open"

u/jynnsomething · 2 pointsr/CrestedGecko

Looks pretty good, I'd even leave the hides, because despite what someone else said, sometimes cresties will use them, you'll just have to see what yours prefers. The only negative thing is the open space. I would get a set of leaves (something like to fill in the open space. I would also recommend a magnetic ledge for food and water, it keeps the substrate out of it and the geckos can sit higher to eat - but that's not a necessary change, just a recommendation.

u/WillLie4karma · 2 pointsr/Chameleons

You should buy a bunch of these face vine so that he has something good to climb around on. you also need a good basking spot under the light, about 8-10" down and slightly off the the side (not directly under) of the light. You should also replace that deep dome with a 8 1/2" to 10" regular dome, which you can find cheap at any place like home depot.

u/xxkillslayer4457 · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

It was this one! I got the small for my tank. Your mileage may vary with the shape of each one, but Anime likes it a lot.

u/OrganicDoge · 1 pointr/snakes

Thanks! I got the leaves at a reptile store yesterday. I think they are exo terra ficus leaves. Or something like that.

Edit: here ya go

u/kinsmate · 1 pointr/snakes

these are great vines to add clutter for not too much money, just be careful with the wire ends (I pushed and secured the wire ends through to the outside of the tub).

u/cassadyamore · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

Geckos need time to adjust to new surroundings, and might not eat right away. Just go ahead and leave him alone for a week or two. You can put food in to see if he'll take any while you're not watching but make sure to keep count of what you leave in so you actually know if he's eating.

Unfortunately no pet is as cheap as sellers can sometimes make them out to be. Heat setup is probably the most expensive immediate requirement for leopard geckos generally. You can get away with cheap tubs for housing, but you absolutely need a heat source with thermostat to regulate. Getting a heating pad is a good start but without the thermostat, you risk giving your pet burns or other health issues from overheating.

If you have a few bucks to spare, get one of these fake plants. It's just a long strand of leafy vine with a malleable core so you can shape it to your needs. I shaped it into some arches and have it across half of my tank so that my gecko would feel less exposed while moving from hide to hide. It works as a hide over the hide. Think of it as a bush I guess.

u/WallowingInnSelfPity · 1 pointr/geckos
u/Gabewilde1202 · 1 pointr/ballpython

It's actually two vines that have been twisted together the first one is this : EONMIR 8-Foot Reptile Vines,...
And then this: Fluker's Repta Vines-Pothos for...

u/sickcham · 1 pointr/Chameleons

Here are the pics

Before the barrage of hate like I got from my vet. Please read the below.

I moved him from the cage due to him falling since he was growing weak.

He like to drink water from the medicine cup. I still do mist but I noticed when he was young the misting systems and the dripper bothered him.

I do have lights but they are over him in the plastic tube as you can see that it is lit. I use the following light for sun and a 40 watt for warmth.

I usually have more branches and leaves but I moved them to a smaller enclosure when he started to appear ready to fall so that if he did it would be a shorter fall and I threw in t shirts at the bottom so that would help too. After awhile he wouldn't even try to climb on branches so I moved him to the tupperware container he is now in and I have a water dish in there for him. I still spray him lightly but I do watch him drink.

The branches and leaves are


I have used the Zoo Med Reptibreeze Open Air Screen Cage since I got him first starting out with small when I received him then moving up to Medium then Large. As get got older I moved him down to the Medium as he wasn't exploring as much.

When moving in the past I have not noticed him to get stressed.

Also let me be more clear. I moved and I noticed that he didn't eat many crickets the first two weeks. Then I got him a new batch and he usually eats a few when they hit the cage. He didn't go after a single one. I know they can be picky eaters so I didn't panic. I order some Green Horn Worms and waited but he did not eat those either. By this time he started to show that he was losing weight rather fast. I called the vet the said they could see me the next week. I went they cave me calcium drops and carnivore care. I tried it for 2 weeks and now not sure what to do. I know Panther Chameleons grow to be 6 to 8 years old in captivity but that's usually just a best guess from my understanding.

u/octo_owl · 1 pointr/ballpython

The one in the pictures is bioactive, so it has a soil mix with CUC (isopods and springtails) and live plants. You can use fake plants for sure, you can buy them on Amazon or at a craft store. Just make sure they don’t have sharp points or loops the snake can get stuck in. I cut a square in the lid of the tub. You can use a soldering iron to melt and cut it, but since I don’t have one, I heated it with a hair dryer a little at a time and used a utility knife. You have to go slow and heat it to soften the plastic or it will crack. I used duct tape on the outside of the lid, and underneath to “seal” it and fill gaps I used high temperature hot glue. I have seen several people use zip ties to attach their screens, and one person said they used their soldering iron to melt the screen edges into the plastic.

Edit to say one plant is not real in this, it has a suction cup and I got it on Amazon.

u/cakefizzle · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

The past couple of days my warm side has gotten up to mid 90's in the afternoon (I have a dimmer on the way, no worries), and my little guy still prefers it over the cool side. Is it possible to turn the thermostat down some more? Although, it seems to me that if you have a thermostat and a thermometer that are reading similar temperatures, then the gun might be the one that's off. I'm not sure how you would test that.

Regarding your edit, maybe you could get some of these or one of these. I have two of those plants, I just suction-cupped them into different corners and my guy loves sleeping in them. The small reaches from the top of my tank to the floor (12").

u/AmantisAsoko · 1 pointr/mantids

I use this terrarium once they're larger but I invested because I raise mantids as pets quite often.

For a twig, I use this

And for foliage I use this with the suction cup plonked near the top and the leaves hanging down that I found in the reptile section.

The fish and reptile sections at your local pet store are going to be your favorite aisles from now on.

For substrate a lot of people here prefer dirt (NEVER from outside, there are all kinds of parasites and mites in outside dirt!) But I prefer coconut fiber as my substrate because it's naturally antibiotic and will hinder fungal and bacterial growth, and smell nicer too.

You'll really come to love these little guys, and here's why. Mantids, unlike most "bugs" hunt via sight, not vibration. This means they move and act much more mammalian than other insects. They don't skitter, they don't make sudden scary movements or bite or attack on sight (well some do, they all have their own distinct personalities), and they're VERY smart.

Mantids have been known to be receptive to operant conditioning, AKA they can be trained like a dog would. You should try to handle them (gently and with clean hands) as they grow up, every couple of days, and by the time they're adults they'll readily calmly hang out with you whenever you want. You can plop them on your arm as you do computer stuff or whatever. They're very docile creatures most of the time and make great pets. Just be careful because they're fragile.

As others said, keep humidity around 50% and if they're Tenodera Sinesis then temperature should hover around 70F at night and 80F during the day, which means you'll want a dome reptile lamp and you'll need to figure our the appropriate distance from the top of the cage to place it. Don't place it right on top, the mantids love to hang out on top upside down and a lamp right there would fry them. Make sure there's at least 1 cool spot for them to cool off.

As for food and water, once they're a little bigger the crickets at the pet store should work fine. If they're super picky there are lots of online mantis stores that sell larger flies. and whet a sponge or paper towel in there to help with the humidity.

u/flip69 · 1 pointr/Chameleons

Lets not use substrate as that causes it's own problems.

Lets try to focus on identifying and correcting the cause of the issue that has him unable to perch.

> I use a 60 watt blue day bulb

That's one problem. Turn that off right now and remove it.
It's a strong UVa emitter and it will blind them (snow blindness)

I ask because experience has taught me that people get these kits sold to them and they're often supplied with things that don't help or harm the animal.

It'll take a few days to get him to heal from the UV burn on his retina.

Till then you'll have to hand feed him (use a pair of tongs that you can get a fish store)

As for the visible light and heat source.
you'll have to order a light bulb online- these are the best things... get a 60-75 and 95 watt light

Later on you can get a 10" clamp light... those are to be found at home depot for the heat source.

then we can get some perches setup I recommend a bendable "jungle vine" that you can use for that.
Of course, there's a little write up on the heat source placement and perch placement so that the animal reduces the chances of being burned.

until then, the best thing you can do is to let him have access to direct sunlight (and shade so it can self regulate) and let him bask a in the daytime. (early morning and evenings are best)

That will speed healing and help with him generally until we can get all of this setup and handled.

Let me know if there's any questions :)

u/bikini_girl3 · 1 pointr/Chameleons

I've had the same issue with finding a good size Ficus... turns out, i can just use a weak looking one and run fake vines through it (this kind) at least for the time being until I can find the right size ficus or grow one myself... lol.

I even asked around at multiple nurseries, they for some reason (unknown to them too) cannot get the size I'm looking for, they're either too small or huge ones you would plant in the ground outside.

u/eatmycupcake · 1 pointr/aww

Oh, he's the one that's been bombarding me for years with all of the reptile facts and care information on the planet. Even knows the best local reputable breeders. The terrarium I picked out is an ExoTerra 20 gallon and the branches I put on the list are a formable sort of branch that you can position. I read that they don't need a heated rock (I had an iguana when I was young that did require this) but that you can use bulbs in a reflector light fixture at one end/side.

u/TheCosmicCoasta · 1 pointr/snakes

Corns are the best beginner snake (in my opinion) and these are just my experiences with my own baby Roseanne.

My corn LOVES to climb. I installed these vines in her enclosure:

It's extremely rare I don't see her resting on one of these vines.

When you pick her up, go from the side. When you reach down from the top to scoop them up, it reminds their reptile brain of how birds or other reptiles attack. So go slowly from the side and gently lift him out of the tank - he'll naturally constrict around your fingers for stability. Snakes NEED to be supported, otherwise they feel unsafe and may musk, or defecate, on you.

Use both hands to support him. I tend to move my hands in a "climbing" pattern so the snake can basically climb continuously. I just move them down and start the process over!

In my experience, snakes that sit still are generally comfortable. So if he just lays on your hand and isn't defecating or anything else, that's fine! He may just be absorbing the new environment. I just moved and the first time I took my corn out was the first time she'd been outside my living room! So it took her a couple minutes to adjust to the smells and sights and sounds!

Corns also move a little faster than some snakes like ball pythons. You have to pay attention to them, but you'll soon be able to watch TV and hold your corn with little to no problem! :)

Edit: a word.

u/gabbylupin03 · 1 pointr/CrestedGecko

Where? Do you mean the vine? It's actually one I found on Amazon. It's green and looks really neat with varying length and size.

Flexible Bend-A-Branch Jungle...