(Part 2) Best rubber raw materials according to redditors

While I agree with others, a cobler is your best bet, there are cheaper DIY options.
Personally, I've upgraded a number of cheap period shoes by dying them and/or adding soles. If you're looking for a cheap option for soles I've used this rubber sheet for shoe soles in the past, cut out the exact shape I need for my shoes, then just used shoe glue adhesive to attach them.
I've done this 3 times and have had zero issues besides maybe needing to add a little extra glue in places. My last pair I wore for 2 years until the sole was almost gone.

I have one adjustment that i would suggest from my experience. Next time you build one, hang the steel from the cross bar with rubber belt like this. The rounds will pass through instead of hitting the chain and breaking it.

I added a rubber on the bottom so it doesnt slide there really isnt a reason to screw it down it holds in place really well. I can upload a clip tomorrow if u want.

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/neoprene-rubber-adhesive-strip-thick/dp/B008BSXWLW

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this stuff is great

Ok here's the run down on those. They are made from planet bike cascadia 29er plastic fenders. I bisected them and used aluminum flashing in the middle. Its all held together with aluminum pop rivets. I reinforced the stays and the front fork mounting tab with .06" x 1" X3" aluminum bar stock. I use stainless P clamps commonly used for wire management to support the front fender. I zip tie the rear fender to the seat and chain stays using pieces of inner tube as an insulator. It's sort of Fred like but I don't care. The rubber mud flaps are made from 1/16" shore 60A rubber sheet. I then made a weight for the mudflap out of the same aluminum bar stock, then adhered a reflective sticker on it. Here's the link for the rubber that was used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016C5FJE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0sBcAbZT84KP9

Looks like it's possibly flooring?

http://www.amazon.com/Recycled-Rubber-Sheets-Rolls-Length/dp/B006GQY9SQ

http://www.matsmatsmats.com/exercise/rolled-rubber.html

http://www.rubbercal.com/elephant_bark.html

https://www.amazon.com/Neoprene-Commercial-Grade-Rubber-Length/dp/B006GR2UW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?keywords=anti%2Bvibration%2Bmats&qid=1550259048&s=gateway&sr=8-27&th=1&psc=1

This or similar stuff should do. Im sure with will be seller that’s cheaper.

/u/streakybacon linked spiceBar's landing pad guide. Here's another post with sound clips demonstrating the difference the mod makes. He uses a clothes iron to flatten the landing pads to mitigate the travel reduction that the landing pads induce.

My hole-punched silicone mod takes more supplies and effort to do. I attempted this mod so as to avoid the travel reduction of the landing pads. I used a .010" silicone sheet but I think it's a little too thin to be very effective. I would recommend trying .015" or .020" if you want to attempt this mod. I first cut out 10mm x 10mm squares, then used this hole punch set (I used the 1/4" punch) to make holes on each square using a rubber mallet and a soft wood block underneath. This is very time consuming and costs more than the landing pad mod, but it makes sure all the keys are even with a minimal reduction in travel. It's worth it if you have multiple Topre keyboards you want to silence.

Another thing to note: Nearly all modification guides leave out how to open the Topre keyboard cases. Realforces are easy to open - you just need to unclip 4 tabs on the bottom front of the keyboard and the two halves open up. The FC660C requires removing one screw underneath the QC sticker, and then using a thin screwdriver or credit card to unclip the tabs in the seam between the two halves of the case (difficult to do). The CM Novatouch is built even more tightly and is the hardest to open. Same method as with the FC660C but you need to remove 4 screws on the bottom, and have to unclip even more tabs to open it up. The plastic will bend and you'll probably think you'll break the case but it should be okay if you don't pry the cases outwards too much. To separate the plastic plunger section from the PCB, you'll have to remove a bajillion screws from the PCB. Then, to remove the plungers from their housings you can pop them out with your thumb but it tends to break the tiny plastic tabs keeping the plungers in their housing - this doesn't affect the keyboard's function in any way but it's worth noting that you'll be doing a bit of damage. You can also try to carefully remove the plungers without breaking the tabs using a screwdriver.

Something like this would help. Just line the bottom of your computer with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Neoprene-Rubber-Commercial-Grade-Thick/dp/B01CUQ51L4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543420687&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rubber+strips+with+adhesive&psc=1

I have both passenger and driver side for my CB antenna and my dune whip
Cali raised mount

also get some edge trim for the sides of the tailgate because these brackets fill the gap between truck and tailgate the trim will help protect the tailgate edge from rubbing.

I bought something very like this sample pack. The 1/16” adhesive has been my go to for grip modding but the other occasionally has uses when damping rattles, etc, in random stuff. Those squares last quite a while when all you need are thin strips and rectangles cut out of them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P5V72OQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this , but you'll get enough to last a lifetime or to apply to many stands of your choosing.

Play a movie with some loud bass, and put your hand on the floor right next to the subwoofers. If you can feel the floor vibrating, you may get some benefit from the isolation pads. If you can't feel it vibrating, then you don't need them.

But I can save you some time by telling you that if it's a concrete floor, you don't need them.

If you're still curious, you can make some pads of your own by getting the densest wood you can find at Home Depot, and some dense rubber padding (I found some at a local foam store).

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Neoprene-Assorted-Thickness-Material/dp/B01IC7THJ2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

You can get thin rubber sheets in almost any size if you're willing to pay for it, see for example

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016C5FB3C

(And the same outfit will sell even bigger ones.)

A sheet of thin hardwood plywood, finished on the top with a nonslip surface on the bottom, would be nicer but pricey.

If you want to go whole-hog you could think about re-veneering the top yourself.

Fair enough. Just throwing out an alternative. 50 Shore A durometer, Black, and enough to throw a bunch away. I’ve used Sorbothane and the alternatives in my system as well as for vibration isolation of optical systems. It’s good stuff no doubt but there are always options.

https://www.amazon.com/egrips-Apple-iPhone-Skin-Protective/dp/B00PM6KRXC?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EE9HTPW/ref=mh_s9_acsd_simh_bCI3IjD_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=RS122RRHESTGXHTN9V8H&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=f176c4aa-e283-5148-8bed-401368b7555b&pf_rd_i=11260355011

You can use tape in a pinch but you can also buy spools of rubber such as this. I bought one years ago and cut a piece whenever needed.

Mouse pads actually do work pretty well.

But, if you are looking for something that you can make, I once made a pad for a drum clinic with 2x4s and small sheets of gum rubber attached to it.

EDIT: Gum Rubber on Amazon

/u/snophone is right, though. If you can do a double stroke roll on a pillow, your hands are doing something right.

>Modern mousepads are typically made of lesser density rubber composites (open cell styrene, butadiene rubber or open cell SBR) with fabric bonded to the upper surface. However, many other types of material have been used, including fabric, plastics, recycled rubber tires, neoprene, silicone rubber, leather, glass, cork, wood, aluminum, stone and stainless steel. High-quality gaming mats are usually made from plastic, glass, aluminum or high-tech fibers.

Wikipedia

Neoprene

A lot cheaper to buy in bulk, so I hope you've got a large "surface:

Get a big sheet of rubber gasket material and bolt the exhaust manifold in place to hold it in place.

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Sheet-Warehouse-Neoprene-All-Purpose/dp/B016C5G4CY/