(Part 2) Best saw blades, parts & accessories according to redditors

Exactly that. A Sawzall with a scrapper blade rather than a saw blade. Something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Spyder-Scraping-Attachment-Reciprocating-Multi-Pack/dp/B002GP7GBI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3G808RF8UJH1J&keywords=sawzall+scraper+blade&qid=1570196991&sprefix=Sawzall+svrap%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-4

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

Zero clearance insert

Dado zero clearance insert

That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack

Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.

If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference

Start with one GR Rripper

if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout

Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.

Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.

Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD

I use a Freud non-ferrous blade and it cuts through aluminum extrusion with ease and leaves a very nice finish on the cut.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are also cheaper brands that probably cut almost as well.

Yeah this is definitely a more recent addition. That's a plastic box, but still a "new work" model. Meaning it was installed before the wall went up, with nails on the top and bottom.

These are most easily removed with a sawzall, or a sawzall blade in a handle. Not too hard to do.

You'll want to replace it with an old work box, which has tabs that flip out and hug the inside of the wall.

Freud 8" Stacked Dado Set for All Saws (SD208S)

Amazon link

Just get a decent fence and blade for that table saw and it's pretty nice.

I used this on mine and get mirror finish cuts on my extrusions, I can't recommend this blade enough.

Same here. My Gripper basically is unused because I cannot find myself comfortable enough to use it with my hands over the blade. I'd actually use my bandsaw to rip anything thinner than 1" (and use my drum sander or planer afterward. Anything wider and I'm using this Big Horn push stick which is stable. So basically, the Gripper is sitting there as paper weight :(

For push sticks, stay away from stuff like this.

Instead, go for something like [this] (http://www.finewoodworking.com/pdf/Push_Stick.pdf), which you can make yourself. There are all kinds of designs actually, but having more surface area contact the wood is a good idea as it allows you to put more pressure on the wood to keep it in place, both downward towards the table saw and towards the fence and away from the blade.

You can make a featherboard, but you can get a good enough plastic one at Harbor Freight for 5 bucks.

You should get or make a zero clearance insert. Making them can be kinduva pain in the ass, so I would just order one from woodcraft for 20 bucks.

As far as riving knifes go, you could get away with a micro-jig splitter, which might be easier than finding old parts. This is what I did for my saw, also an older craftsman and it works pretty great.

Lastly, eventually you're gonna want to make a crosscut sled as this will make it a lot easier and safer to do crosscutting.

If you have a PCS/ICS it's a pretty easy setup but the saw is still super heavy, best to have a helper to get it together, especially the wings and tipping the saw upright. The instructions are very easy to follow. I spent an hour or two going over it with a dial indicator but it was a waste of time, mine came pretty much perfect out of the box.

The only thing I don't like about the saw is the miter gauge. It isn't bad for a basic miter gauge, but you'll be much happier with a nicer one like an incra 1000.

Welcome to the club. Now you need one of these https://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-5000-Solution-Miter-Silver/dp/B00MFGRT06 and you'll be all set.

Assuming you want a 10-in diameter ripping blade, then here are a couple options:

Freud LM72R010 for $58:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225UD

Kempston 99312 for $33:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013KTUQ6

Use Acetone (like goo off) with:

If you have a multi-tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-MM600-Multi-Max-Rigid-Scraper/dp/B001IZT520/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491324466&sr=8-3&keywords=multi+tool+scraper


If you have a Reciprocating Saw:

https://www.amazon.com/Scraper-Scraping-Attachment-Reciprocating-Multi-Pack/dp/B002GP7GBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491324593&sr=8-1&keywords=reciprocating+scraper

If you don't have either, you can pick them up from a harbor freight for fairly cheap.

I picked up the Freud SD208 from Amazon.

Freud 8" Stacked Dado Set for All Saws (SD208S)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MJ2V9J?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I’ve only done one test with it so far... making a half lap on a 4x4 for a bench leg. Not very impressed with the cut surface. Looks to be some tear out and small grooves. I need to sort out what is causing that before I continue.

This saw was struggling with the stack at max width though, so maybe it could be a result of sub optimal RPM?

Here's why these questions are really hard to answer. Consumers tend to only have experience with one or two of these type of saws because they're expensive and good ones last for ages. A consumer will buy one; either they like it enough not to buy another, or very rarely they hate it enough to the point where they get a second one and that's the only one they ever use. Contrast this with something cheaper like a jig saw or a orbital sander where a random consumer might have gone through three over the course of a decade and have two at any given time.

Second we have no idea what you want it for, or what workspace you're setting it up in. One guy on here recommended a portable contractor saw. That might be a good recommendation if you have very limited space or if you want to throw it in a truck every once in a while. But every just about every portable saw will be lighter and less accurate than an equivalent stationary saw. So it's only the right call for you under a very specific set of circumstances.

Now with that grain of salt I can tell you that I bought the R4512 in march after a good bit of research. I paid 400 after the harbor freight coupon. It runs smoothly and I can get accurate rips and cross cuts. I was able to get the blade square without too much trouble and it hasn't moved since I did my initial setup. the anti kickback pawls and blade guard are easy to remove and install.

Like just about any saw the blade was much crappier than a $30 aftermarket combination blade so regardless of what saw you buy I'd recommend you upgrade that. The biggest drawback of the R4512 for me is the fence. It's a piece of shit and it's hard to keep it perfectly square. This is where relative advice is useful. Most people that use this saw will tell you they hate the fence, but the same people will also tell you they'll never touch a contractor saw or a low end craftsman saw. So keep that in mind when comparing it to other saws. if you're budget is $700 and you can buy the r4512 and upgrade the fence to something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-50-Table-System/dp/B000022622/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376446516&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+fence

Good luck and let us know when you choose a saw and when you make something on it.

I have the same saw and my go-to blades are Diablo.

Freud D1060X Diablo 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB Fine Finish Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1UNkybP6DN0CR

I don't think you'd regret the Kobalt! It's not going to be to the level of the Ridgid or Dewalt (and certainly not a Bosch or SawStop) but as long as you're aware you're getting an excellent saw for ~$200, and not a contractor/professional grade saw, you'll be happy.

If it seemed nice to you in the store that's a good sign. Be aware that with cheaper saws, you sometimes have to do some work to get them to work smoothly: things like greasing slide points, or waxing the table to make sure wood glides on it.

The other thing is that a new, high quality blade makes an unbelievable amount of difference! If you can afford $35 for another blade (no worries if you can't, the one that comes with it will still cut!) a good 50 tooth or 60 tooth combination blade will make an average saw give you some pretty amazing results. I use this one for $35 and absolutely love it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ30

I highly recommend you buy an aftermarket "t-square" style fence. I have the same saw you do and replaced my fence years ago with a Biesemeyer fence and It made all the deference in the world it's dead on accurate,no more checking with a tape measure before making a cut. It installs in less than an hour . There are several brands that are very similar if not exactly the same as the Biesemeyer that I'm sure would work just as well if not better.
EDIT:
I've heard good things about the vega and it's about half the price .
http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-50-Table-System/dp/B000022622/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398665608&sr=1-1&keywords=biesemeyer+fence+system

Sandpaper would work on steel but why would you want to "fix" what shouldn't be broken out of the box?

I would either as for a replacement or get a better quality one, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITERV27-Miter-V27-Gauge/dp/B0007UQ2DW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=BEZ5PAYZGCKR&keywords=incra+miter+gauge+v27&qid=1562083421&s=gateway&sprefix=incra+miter%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3

Yes, it is over twice the price of the one you bought but worth every penny.

I second this. The thin kerf ones are really nice. I use this one specifically for cutting veneered plywood when I can't use my tablesaw. They have a non-stick coating that makes them rather nice.

If you have a tablesaw then the hands down answer is Forest.

You'll be fine.... I have a 36-725 and use a Freud P410T on it with no problems, it's .091, you just have to make sure it's aligned properly and you'll be all set.

This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Looks like your question has been answered as to how to do this cheaply. My suggestion involves spending some money. I use the Incra 1000SE as a replacement for my stock miter gauge and it rocks for these kinds of cuts. I used mine last night to cut some angled feet on a series of table legs and it went super fast. I am constantly slapping this thing on the saw and doing repetitive, precise cuts.

This is what I did. You are on your knees, which sucks but little to no actual effort. And I got a great result.

This is the one I used:

(http://www.amazon.com/Simple-154-Attachment-Reciprocating-Multi-Pack/dp/B002GP7GBI/ref=sr_1_1/188-7830398-7918344?ie=UTF8&qid=1396029271&sr=8-1&keywords=Reciprocating+Saw+Scraper)

Definitely need a respirator.

I have the 4512, and the plates are extremely difficult to make on your own since it is so irregular and gets to be very thin on the sides. I tried and failed many times. Get one of these: Leecraft ZC insert Expensive for an insert, yes, but well worth it in my opinion.

Also, as others have said, you don't screw in the plates, the screws are there to level it. The plate sits on top of the screws.

For a blade, buy a high tooth count plywood blade, also called a "finish" blade. This will give you the cleanest cut. Something like this for a circular saw: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0760X-Diablo-Finish-4-Inch/dp/B001CZEU0S

Keep in mind that you'll get cleaner cuts and less tear out if you cut with the grain than across in plywood. And yeah, quality plywood is expensive. Shop around and maybe there's a cheaper supplier near you.

One suggestion: since you'll be doing a ton of these, might be worthwhile to buy some cheap plywood and make a couple of test ones and practice before you buy the expensive stuff. For joinery, glue+brads is quite strong, glue+screws would be a little bit stronger but slower to assemble. Personally, I'd use brads. Once you build the carcase and put the full back on it neither will rack.

This would be pretty neat. Pretty expensive though. I'd rather frame build something out old plastic campaign signs and duck tape Rousseau 5000 Dust Solution for Miter Saws, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFGRT06/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y9VAwb4VYYCEA

How about this? Scraper blade for sawzall

I got this one and I am loving it. Smooth cuts both ways. It is cheaper at lowes though.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OJJXZC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_uZBVub1AA3FET

For the really, REALLY lazy...

FYI, OP's design is excellent and his reasoning really, really sound. I have the one I linked to, because I find the rubber to give me even more control than the home-grown version, but you should at least use that.

I also have a GRIPPR, (which was an Xmas present). I find it too cumbersome to adjust and use for most things (hence the orange one above), but in specialized cases it's wonderful. Probably wouldn't spend the money out of pocket though. (I've been through 15 woodworking Xmases so far, so at this point I put really, really obnoxious stuff on my list).

I found this product that you can use with a zero clearance insert. It looks like on closer inspection my saw can accept a riving knife but these seem pretty reasonable.

MJ SPLITTER Table Saw Safety Splitter and Riving Knife Alternative for Zero Clearance Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_oUS5Bb7J7DGDB

The best solution people come up with is a hood that umbrellas the entire back of the saw. Then the DC gets air flowing down that hood, but it also catches the stuff the blade just chucks back there.

Something like this though DIY solutions abound, too.

Mostly I just resign myself to the idea that the miter saw is messy and will require dust mask and some cleanup.

I just bought one of these to try on my table saw: https://www.amazon.com/MJ-SPLITTER-SteelPro-Kerf-MICROJIG/dp/B003E623C0

At least for straight cuts using a zero-clearance table saw insert, I'm hoping it will make things a little safer.

I haven't looked at the Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System yet, but I like that you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the flip stop.

I did look at the Incra MITER1000SE Miter Gauge Special Edition With Telescoping Fence and Dual Flip Shop Stop and INCRA Miter1000/HD Miter Gauge when I went to Rockler awhile back. Though these both have telescoping fences with dual flip stops, it doesn't look like you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the included fence stops. The sacrificial fence would help reduce tear-out.

Leecraft makes zero clearance inserts for that saw. You can pick them up on Amazon. You can of course make your own as you were saying, but I went with the pre-made, phenolic ones. They fit my saw perfectly and lasted for years. They make the one in the link below and a dado insert.


http://www.amazon.com/LEECRAFT-RIDGID-R4512-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0057EANZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414356023&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+leecraft

Where'd you get it from? Is it this one?

You'd need to check the saw. If it doesn't, these little plastic things are very helpful: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00L7KT6PM&pd_rd_wg=z88nE&pd_rd_r=C7HZC8YSW2E73K7JEAE1&pd_rd_w=p8Tm1

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1060X-10-Inch-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade&qid=1564076055&s=gateway&sprefix=freud+10&sr=8-4.
Not thin kerf but i think you'll have better luck than one with less teeth

So here's some of what is on my list-- I just copied and pasted over. Some other items to consider would be new saw blades, a low angle block plane, clamps (you can never have too many clamps), featherboards, a table saw thin rip jig, a shop apron, 6 inch metal pocket ruler, keyless chuck for your drill press, and I think that about exhausts my ideas..

Hurricane HTC125 Large Dovetail Jaws ($40)

MJ Splitters for Thin Kerf ($25)

Harbor Freight Pockethole Jig ($50 after 20% coupon-- only buy if you have a coupon)

Coping saw ($5-25)

A pair of holdfasts ($35 +$10S&H)

Edit: Was on phone earlier, added links

You thought about putting a hood on that bad boy?

There are some kinds of aftermarket splitter-style solutions.

Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM

I don't know how good that thing is in practice. Certainly not as good as a real solid riving knife/bladeguard combination, but maybe much better than nothing.

Without a riving knife, it's very easy to have horrible accidents.

Just a second of letting attention slip and the wood goes flying and maybe drags your hand into the blade.

With a riving knife and blade guard, you basically have to push your hand actively into the blade from the front.

Which happens, of course, but much less frequently then the kind of kickback-induced accidents that are so frequent without riving knives.

​

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I have the big brother to that table saw (DWE7491RS) because I needed portability too. I only really use it for woodworking, it's not ideal (mainly because of the small table) but still a great saw given the fact I can fold it up and store it in my shed.

I got this Freud blade for it after a little bit of research. If you're doing fast rough cuts it's probably better to get something else. This one still cuts fairly fast but the finish it leaves is absolutely beautiful. It's Freud's newest "multi-purpose" blade. One thing to consider is the kerf width of the blade versus the thickness of the Dewalt riving knife. This Freud is a thin kerf and is barely thick enough for the riving knife (by about 2 thousandths on each side). You MUST have the blade aligned well with the riving knife (not hard to do). Once it's aligned, it's very safe though, no play for the board to hit the back teeth and cause kickback. No binding either if you have it aligned correctly.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some are, some aren't. I picked up the Incra V27 for my old Craftsman and it works great. The runners are slightly adjustable so they fit perfectly.

Own one and used it for a number of projects. Great saw for the money.

I have upgraded a couple things so far :

Bought a good quality blade, I went with a Freud thin-kerf blade from Amazon

Bought a zero clearance insert to fit the new blade. Really nice to have for cutting small pieces.

Upgraded the miter Gauge, bought a nice Incra. The stock one is crap.

Amazon links : Blade and Miter Gauge

I think I've seen the kinds of blades you are talking about - they look like they are coated with extremely course industrial grit. That is not what icancwhatusay is talking about with an 80 tooth blade. See:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a "standard" 80-tooth blade with normal (carbide?) teeth as you would expect on a saw blade.

If i may make a suggestion, try upgrading the blade to something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/D1080X-Diablo-10-Inch-80-tooth-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395690884&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+saw+blade

a good blade is one of the best ways to upgrade a tool.

I decided to go with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have cut some spline slots (?) and am starting to build a box joint jig. So far so good!

I just don't really see the point of a think kerf blade unless your saw is really underpowered. All of my rip cuts have gotten way better since I switched.

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-24T-Heavy-Duty-Blade-LM72M010/dp/B00004T78V
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any contractor saw would be excellent. You should look for saws with the motor hanging out the back, they're better than the direct drives. Everyone here loves the delta -I cant remember the number- or the Rigid, but I've got a mid 90s craftsman with new freud blades and it cuts very smoothly. I tuned it up following youtube's guides and then every time i adjust the fence have to square it up for 2 minutes cause I havent had time to build a biesemeyer fence yet. I got these two saw blades 24 tooth FTB and 60 tooth ATB

Build yourself a crosscut sled for 10$ worth of wood and I used it for rabbets and Miter-ing. This table saw is a pretty decent deal. Bet he'd take 300 for it

Dont be afraid of used things, youtube will tell you how to make it pretty decent.

You can order dado stacks right off amazon that ship to Australia... but you're going to have to measure the arbor of your saw. A lot of options in Australia use a 20/25/30mm arbor, while its almost 100% 5/8" in America. Shipping is $25USD on the dado stack, so not prohibitively expensive. 2.8kg on that stack.

Is this too big? You can use metal blades. https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-0305-Folding-Jab-6-Inch/dp/B003KINVKA

Pulley's http://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/pulleys-belts/

Zero clearance insert
Leecraft CR-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert (For Craftsman/Sears)(Colors May Vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1BJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UDd.Bb1K6VXRG

Splitters
MJ SPLITTER SteelPro by MICROJIG - Table Saw Safety 1/8" Kerf Splitter and Riving Knife Alternative for Zero Clearance Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E623C0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KFd.BbY77MZRT

There's nothing saw specific about a push stick, and they are cheap and easy to find. Here's one I like:

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405315059&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+push+stick

Found it:

Freud D1080N Diablo 10-Inch 80 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ38/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Z0pFxbGAPHV0Y

(I think someone else linked it below too)

Works great though. It gives a very smooth and clean finish without any fuss. In fact, I just used it last weekend on some C-Beam from Open builds.

Don't forget to always clamp your work for best results and to account for the blade curf in your measurements

I use this one from Amazon and love it. It's pretty big but I'm completely in control with my work.

http://smile.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I

> 213 series

I'm not familiar with the 213 series. What is the HP of the motor? IS it belt driven? Does it get bogged down when cutting thicker stock? Why are you unhappy with your current saw?

The Powermatic 63 is kinda ugly. The color looks like child vomit. The Vega fence looks like this. There is a pipe in the front, tube in the back and the fence slides between the two. It is very sturdy.

Sounds like the one I have. [Here it is on Amazon](Irwin Tools 1807368 Marples Laser Cut 10-Inch 50-Tooth Alternate Tooth Bevel with Raker Tooth Circular Saw Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OJJXZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qgOwzb0MM3KT1).

Pair them up with a set of MJ splitters and it's a beautiful thing when you push that first board through the blade like buttah.

You have to be careful with the feed rate but using a circular saw blade like this you could probably go straight from the saw cut to sanding.

You would still need a plane or router sled setup to flatten the face of a board.

180 tooth is like a plywood/sheet-goods/specialized blade usually, and they don't have carbide.

Assuming that there isn't something wrong with the saw itself, this blade should provide much better results

Also, the more teeth the blade has, the slower you have to cut.

the first two blades i purchased for my saw was a freud glue line rip and a freud ultimate crosscut. I used the crappy blade that came with my saw for cutting shop plywood and 2x4s. I recently bought a Freud combo blade that works really well. this is the combo blade I bought. If your tablesaw is under-powered, I recommend a thin kerf rip blade. HTH.

For a miter gauge I'd recommend something like this which you can then expand by attaching a long board to the face.

Here is my miter gauge fence with a stop: https://imgur.com/gallery/R31Oe

I have upgraded to an Incra miter gauge. However it's expensive. INCRA MiterV120 Miter Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RCTTG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WSJjzb63C3QY3

But you could do that with a simple miter gauge. Just need one flat piece of wood, 3/4 thick, 2.25 inches high. 2 & 1/4 ''.

v 120

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITERV120-INCRA-MiterV120-Miter/dp/B001RCTTG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452951508&sr=1-1&keywords=incra+v120

These are nice too... they use sawzall blades.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-0305-Folding-Jab-6-Inch/dp/B003KINVKA