(Part 2) Best screen door hardware according to redditors
We found 172 Reddit comments discussing the best screen door hardware. We ranked the 58 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
23. CRL Satin Anodized 1/2" Aluminum "U" Channel - 12 ft long
1 mention
Official C.R. Laurence Product
Amazon Link to the Above
You can also try a metal c-channel over the edge of shelf like this one:
CRL Satin Anodized 1/2" Aluminum "U" Channel - 12 ft long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL56MXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_arx-BbT41JF0Z
>I wanted to know if you could recommend a decent pick set to start off with.
I started with this set. it's not all that exciting, but it's pretty good for a first set of picks.
Mad Bob's Ghost set seems to be well regarded, but you'll have to wait a few weeks, since they make them to order. You can see a nice review of this here.
The Dangerfield Serentity set is the same kit, without the finishing and and a crappier case, but is a little cheaper. Again, review here
Another nice set is the Sparrows Tuxedo. Review here
Edit: Per this thread, the code Sparrowsbfdeal will knock $7.80 off the Tuxedo set, bringing it down to $31.20. (CAD)
Effectively anything will do, as long as it's not made of cheap crappy metal, since that'll bend on you.
>I'd also like to know if you could please tell me what those stands are called. Where you can put different tubes in and switch them out to practice on different locks. I'd also like to know if you could recommend one of those for me too.
That sounds like a practice lock stand. You can look at a pretty good selection here.
Personally, I'd buy a small vice like this, mainly because it's both cheaper and more flexible. Add in a piece of soft leather (or thick cloth) and it'll protect your lock from the jaws.
You need to find a Locksmith that owns one of these. Major MDLT-1 this will indent your door to accept a regular bolt.
or your door is manufactured in a way that this will not work, I have seen doors that have seams in the middle of the door edge which makes installing a deadbolt impossible without a wrap plate and that requires cutting the door.
Years ago, these were common in front doors with mail slots:
https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Brass-Mail-Plates-Antique/dp/B005TVVJ1E
They pretty much stop someone from reaching in with their hand.
They were then upgraded to a chute:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GX0TEA
The latest and greatest is a full on box:
https://www.amazon.com/DuraBox-Through-Door-Locking-D500/dp/B00YG96QB8
All could be retrofitted without replacing the door.
I just bought this:
Prime-Line U 9589 Lock & Door Reinforcer, 2-1/8 in. x 2-3/8 in. x 1-3/8 in., Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H371PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0QklDbQ11F397
First, wood glue and clamps. Take out the old hardware but use the hollow round cylinder to keep the hole in place.
Make sure to measure your door, there are a couple sizes.
The person that kicked in my door is a preteen. (Using gender neutral pronouns for their anonymity) Large boxes need to be broken down in my city to be taken for recycling. Now when they are excessively angry or frustrated, they go to town ripping up cardboard boxes. It gets their destructive energy out in a way that is helpful to me.
It looks like they are pretty easily available from Amazon US for under five bucks
Prime-Line Products SP 9609 Spring, Extension, 7/16-Inch by 2-Inch - .062 Diameter,(Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RG5CHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dAg7Bb003TS1W
If you can’t figure out another solution send me a private message and I would be happy to buy a couple and then send them up to you
It might be this, not 100%... I haven't touched a mk3 in a while.
What I would do to defend my home from invisible monsters with two kids after the death of a loved one:
You can build a good shit drone with a shit airsoft electric pistolx3 and load that with 6mm paintballs including the glowing kind, and a long range good quality controller for around 450-550 usd. Both your kids can have one so that's a 1,000 usd cost.
Getting connected with the neighborhood is a good idea. For a 500 usd you can get about 40 good walkie talkies for the local area. But you'll need to coordinate a way to have seperate sectors and channels so everyone isn't talking over one another. The kids can help monitor radios as well.
There are plenty of cheap paintball kits out to pass around the neighborhood as well. For 500 you can get 16 paintball pistol kits spread around. Including two for your own kids.
You can set up some basic signaling traps such as these .22 blank cartridge systems:
https://www.amazon.com/PREPPER-Property-Security-Poachers-Paintball/dp/B00VXOR7K8/
You can get about 24 of these around you neighborhood. For 500 usd.
You can get some uv lights for your neighborhood. About 10-30 for about 500 usd seems to be accurate that way your neighbors all around have a way of spotting the creatures before they have to shoot paint and then shoot bullets.
You can pretty easily get about 200 meters of barbbed wire for about 500 USD. Which should be enough to close up the street in front and behind the house.
The permits nesscary to close your street might be roughly 25-1000 usd or free for a few days. Depending on how they feel.
You can get reflective tape and engineering tape with cones and poles to make a second wall outside your house that is shiny and scary for most animals. Having a hunch of shiny pole surrounding you house is bound to scare off a few. 500 usd
You can probably have a uv and thermal camera outside tour house to find and identify potential creatures. That will run about 500 usd.
You can also have a few rc cars and helicopters with a small derringer so they can fire and shoot a pistol cartridge in .22 lr you can get two for less than 500usd.
https://fithops.com/collections/perimeter-trip-alarms/products/12-gauge-perimeter-alarm
Perimeter alarms are supposed to use low pressure 12 gauge shells without the projectiles. But you can load them up with shot as a one use item but it's dangerous. So for a 1000 bucks you can get about 20-30 of these little guys along with wire to set the stuff up.
Dual dead bolt and door knob lock:
[Deadbolt]
(https://www.amazon.com/Taftek-AMD101-Cylinder-Deadbolt-Anti-Bump/dp/B07MS194Y4/)
Hard mesh screen
Quick release window security bars:
Storm and break in resistant clear window protector
What you need to make your house storm resistant for cheap.
Three ar-15s with ear and eye protection and a few magazines. Just blast and blast till it's dead. In my basic we had a 70 pound 4 foot tall Indonesian and a 4.6 foot tall Mexican can shoot a 20 inch m16, then the kids can shoot a short barrel at 15 well enough to defend themselves.
That's about 1000 usd for all you need for the day.
Grand total 7500. Multiple everything times 6 and include the next door neighbors so they now also have guns, remote control guns and now all the streets and yards are surrounded with piles of barbbed wire that should be able to stop a tank.
You could potentially save the money spent on your neighbors and used it to reingold you home and make it essentially a concrete bunker or build a kill dozer with your kids operating some guns but you specifically asked for home stuff so that's what I did.
Just an opening note, if you're worried about the noise from a speed bag a heavy bag carries through the building much farther.
Thankfully, there's a solution. It doesn't have to be that one exactly but anything that makes the connection between parts less "solid" will prevent noise transfer. Expect to replace the spring a few times if you have a heavy heavy bag.
>Are you talking about venting a window unit through the floor, or a standalone unit's hose through the floor?
The latter, standalone portable unit's hose through floor.
>though a lot of hotels and commercial properties utilize a sleeve through the wall to run a window unit, and years ago, I did see a van build with such a sleeve that was simply vented to outside.
What do you mean by sleeve? You mean a 1' by 2' hole in the wall that the wall unit sits through like in most apartments?
If that's what you're talking about, I wouldn't call it a sleeve. Just a giant hole.
I thought this was a sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Portable-Sliding-Glass-Door/dp/B072X5434T
I thought of this as a possiblilty too, but have one made or find one that would fit a car window. It would at least make it easy to take off whenever you needed to be more steathy. Just roll down the window.
>I would say it should be fine to vent the hot exhaust through the floor, but I'd draw in fresh air somehow and actively blow it across the hot side of the unit since heat rises, and otherwise it would trap that heat in the vent.
Sorry I'm not quite catching what you're saying. You mean underneath where the exhaust is coming out? You're talking to someone who knows nothing about how heat or air transfer work.
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/small-0-375-height-0-039-0-093/dp/B01E76AENU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1480375553&sr=8-13&keywords=window+edge+trim
I'm not sure what your current setup is but you will need a fixed stop on one side. If you use a window screen plunger,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLL9JLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GQ2sDb63H66RP
the stop would be on the outside and you will need to drill holes in the screen frame. If you use a window screen latch,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVH88I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wY2sDbV04N3S6
the stop would be on the inside.
Or, you could nail a fixed stop in the outside and screw a removable stop on the inside. The stop is just a thin, narrow strip of wood 3/8" x 3/8".
Or something like this? There's also a metal version.
We installed this screen on the outside of the screen door and it’s thin enough that it doesn’t interfere with the outer door closing. We opted for the outside because we didn’t want nails getting caught on it it they pawed at the door. Our dogs don’t test it thankfully but we feel better knowing they can’t just tear through it. Good luck!
The perfect frunk fix is:
Prime-Line SP 9610 Spring, Extension, 5/8-Inch by 2-1/2-Inch - .072 Diameter,(Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RG6C3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S8dtDb0627VBH
You can buy it from other places too. Regardless you don't need the struts with this. I found the struts were too strong and my hood was bowed when I closed it. It also flew open so faster it was bouncing at the top. This spring is great by itself. It does open slower but it closes way easier.
Unfortunately it is noisy. I get a rubber band sound when I close it. I stuffed a cut piece of phone screen cleaning cloth inside and it's quieter now. As long as I don't slam it I don't hear that sound.
I use hobby horse springs as temporary turnbuckles on the outer shrouds when raising and lowering the mast on my 22-footer. It works pretty well, I raised and lowered the mast on the water last weekend with them.
Link: https://www.amazon.ca/Prime-Line-Products-SP-9625-Extension/dp/B007X4X5F8?ie=UTF8&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007X4X5F8&linkCode=xm2&tag=duckduckgo-d-20
I've used this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WCCIGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked great, get a screen tool as well: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-7505-Screen-Rolling-Handle/dp/B002KDR83C/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/146-9131169-1696931?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002KDR83C&pd_rd_r=849b7d25-61dd-11e9-a6d1-89beb44619b8&pd_rd_w=Fg5RY&pd_rd_wg=pzbLU&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=39ZA70GAHWSQ20TN04M5&psc=1&refRID=39ZA70GAHWSQ20TN04M5
Scrape off the old, use Bondo to fill, sand, prime with oil based primer or Zinsser BIN and then paint with a good exterior paint. Make sure to install a good rain drip and door sweep to prevent this from occurring again. https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Aluminum-Finish-Sweep-Rain-Combination/dp/B003GF00WE