(Part 2) Best sculpture modelling compounds according to redditors
We found 161 Reddit comments discussing the best sculpture modelling compounds. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I run this instead of a Dremel brand tool. I have had a couple Dremels die on me over the years, so I tried this one and it has lasted 4 years so far! I also got a lot of my bits from harbor freight. I use the cuttoff wheels (ALWAYS WEAR FACE PROTECTION WITH THESE), Sanding Drums, and grinding stones the most. Use the cutoff for cutting out large swaths of material, sanding drums for tighter areas, and grinding stones to debur and smooth it all out. Most work that needs a dremel can be done with hand tools for better control. Coping saw, files, and flush cutters can go a long way. A lot of the "pros" don't use Dremels because they can jump out of control and hit a part of the blaster you planned on leaving stock and leaving a huge gash.
As for soldering Irons, I've heard wonderful things about this model, but cheaper models will work fine. TBH, I'd grab something in the $10 range and see if he sticks with the hobby. Maybe for christmas you can get him a nicer one if he's still going at it. I use a super duper old school Weller soldering station, so really anything will work. The issue you'll get with the cheaper soldering irons is the tips will tend to not last long and the heating element might crap out after a few months. Don't go cheaper than $10 here as some of them are meant for wood engraving, not soldering and wont get hot enough to melt solder. Any size solder is fine. I personally use lead/tin solder and just avoid breathing fumes as well as wash my hands when I'm done modding. Lead solder is MUCH easier to work with and requires less heat. Look for "Rosin Core solder" as it's easier to work with as it has flux in the center of the solder.
Good flush cutters, hobby knife, wire strippers, heatshrink, wire, loctite, etc are all valuable modding supplies. We sell some on our shop (shameless plug). I would recommend for plastic to plastic bonds he use Devcon Plastic Welder (make sure it contains Methyl Methacrylate as this acts as a solvent weld to bond the plastics together chemically instead of a weak adhesive grip like putty). Putty should be used as a filler material. I use two different putties. Free form Air for large amounts of gap fill, it is 6 times less dense than normal putty so it wont make the blaster weight 8 pounds when done. It is VERY easy to sand, but sometimes requires a thin layer of bondo over top of it to leave a perfect finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt which is a direct replacement for normal putty for gap filling purposes. It's MUCH easier to sand than JB Weld putty, and leaves a nice smooth finish when sanded down.
Speaking of sandpaper, get various grades of sandpaper from 100 down to 600 grit (I go as far as 1000 if I want a gloss sheen on something).
Other than all of that, the tools I have on my bench that I would hate to mod without now are: Helping hands (for soldering), various different sizes of needle nose pliers, numerous sizes of small to medium screwdrivers, silicone lubricant, hot glue (for securing wires inside the shell), Electric Screwdriver, and various tweezers.
Thanks, I was thinking about the plastalina but I thought that it hardens after some time. I was also thinking about this because it's big pack and fairly cheap. What do you think? They doesn't say anything about the hardening no matter where I find this product so I guess it may be similar to the plastalina?
Try Polymorph Mouldable Plastic Pellets. Cheap and reusable, you soften them with hot water then mould them into whatever you want. When they cool down they harden up.
I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:
My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!
Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.
No 1u case can fit a standard ATX IO shield, because a standard IO shield is taller than 1U. I usually use a universal IO shield that then gets trimmed around the ports. PLINK 1U cases work with them.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-PLINKUSA-RACKBUY-chassis-cutting/dp/B01L0D7JMC
They are just plastic mesh. You could actually get generic mesh and do the same thing...
https://www.amazon.com/Amaco-WireForm-coated-aluminum-modelers/dp/B004BN6D4Y
i assume you mean this outfit
https://www.cosplayhouse.com/images/commission/032017/31670/legend-of-zelda-breath-of-the-wild-game-cosplay-link-cosplay-costume-version-04-gerudo-outfit-001.jpg
so i am far from a cosplay expert, honestly i have never done it myself but for the fabric i imagine you could cut up some blankets or sheets and if you cant find it in the color required you can paint it then do some rudimentary stiching to form the cut cloth into a form you would like and if you looking for something to imitate metal i recommend this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Polly-Plastics-Moldable-Pellets-Included/dp/B00WRWKM6G/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1494643375&sr=8-9&keywords=moldable+plastichems , i cant tell if the gold hems at the top of the sleeves are metal or fabric but if its metal you could use the stuff i linked, for the pants i would think something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mrignt-Casual-Cotton-Elastic-Shorts/dp/B01ER8SOMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494643615&sr=8-1&keywords=jogger+shorts would work out if you bunched and/or cut them up to your knee (although it looks like those pants may go above the knee so you may need to get a longer version) to get that baggy look along with sealing them up with those other gold hems on the bottom of the legs in the link image and then just put a bunch of fabrics around your waist and paint/dye them (should probably also add embroidery for the designs) to look as they do in the image, hope that helped, but yea in summery, cut up a bunch of cloth for the head, torso, and arms, bunched up sweatpants (and maybe cut) for the pants, do some rudimentary stitching to put the stuff together (like the bra looking thing and the gold hems) and lots of dye/paint, keep in mind ive never cosplayed before but i feel like thats how i would do this one if i wanted to do it
Super Sculpey-Firm is really-really firm, so you might want to start with Super Sculpey-Medium (or some proportion of SS + SS-Firm you create at home), or with another brand/line of polymer clay altogether.
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If you want info about the various "neutral-colored polymer clays sold in bulk and often 'for sculpting then painting over'", I've written about those over in a Facebook polymer clay group. I'll copy those in here:
...Well, for sure I wouldn't recommend original-plain Sculpey unless all its disadvantages won't matter...e.g., it's the most brittle line of polymer clay in any thin or projecting areas after baking, although the cheapest by volume, but there are other disadvantages too.
Several other lines will be brittle like that too, though not quite as bad, all under the Sculpey/Polyform brand:
regular Super Sculpey, Sculpey III, Craftsmart, Bakeshop.
The neutral-colored polymer clays sold in bulk sizes often sold "for sculpting, then painting later" are listed below:
(opaque:)
...Sculpto-Firm polymer clay (by Van Aken)
...Super Sculpey-Medium
...Super Sculpey-Firm
(...original plain Sculpey, a brittle one mentioned above)
(usually at least somewhat translucent:)
...Cernit Doll (the most colors, I think)
...Fimo Professional Doll Art (some colors translucent, some opaque)
...Prosculpt
...Living Doll
(...regular Super Sculpey, a brittle one mentioned above)
Many lines of polymer clay can also be purchased in larger bricks (cheaper by volume than same color in the smaller bars).
Online most colors each line offers will be available (e.g. Premo, Kato Polyclay, Cernit, Fimo Professional, Fimo Soft).
In retail craft and art supply stores, you might also be able to find some of those larger bricks, but only in white, black or brown.
AND
Here are some of the other skin-colored polymer clays (that are sold in larger sizes)...some of the pics show raw clay though rather than how the clay would look after curing:
Fimo Doll Art:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+skin+colors+Fimo+Doll+Art
Cernit Doll Clay:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+skin+colors+Cernit+Doll+Clay
ProSculpt:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+Prosculpt
Sculpey's "Living Doll":
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+Sculpey+Living+Doll
(regular) Super Sculpey:
https://www.google.com/images?q=polymer+clay+Super+Sculpey+-Firm+-Medium
Sculpto Firm:
https://www.amazon.com/Sculpto-CEC15117-FIRM-Polyclay-Beige/dp/B01FWG8YAO (click on the 2 pics of sculpts on the upper right to see sculpted examples)
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If you want info about the pre-colored polymer clays instead though, check out my previous comment here at Reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/polymerclay/comments/9uk8c2/i_need_suggestions_on_good_clay_brands/e96dxdr
Rice is a poor way of getting moisture out of a phone. Silica gel is much better:
http://www.gazelle.com/thehorn/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Water-Damage-Prevention-and-Recovery.pdf
You can buy it at Walmart, crafts store like Michaels, or Amazon, sometimes sold as flower-drying crystals or dessicant.
At two hours drive from where I live there's a shop that sells cosplay supplies, I will go there and ask around.
Anyway, I've been checking online for things I could use. I found this, this and this (sorry for the french).
The first one seems what you are advising but my problem is the color. The underside should be red with black pads. I'm not sure how or if I can recolor it.
Plug for Aves Apoxie Sculpt.
They make it, but it would be chaper to do it yourself.
is this it?
http://www.amazon.com/Moldable-Plastic-Material-Halloween-Costumes/dp/B00XBJRHUI
Not 3D printing related, but it sounds like InstaMorph or similar would be useful to you as well.
You could use low-temperature melting plastic, like FormCard or [Moldable Plastic Pellets] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GM1YM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6fj5yb01WQ09H)
Your sexy, perfect Glock looks like a brick of modelling clay. Oh, so sexy.
They are ugly guns with bad ergonomics. They operate fine though, never had any issues with mine. But they are still ugly as fuck.