(Part 2) Best spacers & standoffs according to redditors

https://blog.wwolf.us/din-mounting-for-the-pi/

This is not necessarily an exciting write-up. My main purpose is to show how easy this is and offer it as an alternative to typical cases and power supplies. Earlier in A cluster of Pi’s, I referenced DIN mounting for the Pi. DIN rails along with the POE hat would reduce the space required, cord clutter, and possibly increase cooling. It has begun…

DIN rails – Backing up

DIN rails have many applications and are commonly found in telecom and industrial environments. Other than my current use, I have used DIN rails in a fulfillment warehouse where we used DIN rails to mount all the various power supplies, breakers, switches and PLC controllers for the conveyor systems.

In a previous post here, I describe my server rack. As much as I would like to house everything inside this rack, it is quickly becoming full and I have more plans down the road for servers and UPS systems. Whereas this could be a great excuse to purchase a second rack, there is simply not enough room. This makes the use of DIN rails even more practical for me as I can easily allocate some wall space for mounting and just route the necessary Ethernet cables to the Pi’s.

DIN mounting parts list:

• Pi 4 (4GB) – I am currently only acquiring Pi 4 4GB models but any that accept a POE Hat should work for this. I have some Pi 3’s and an O-droid that may migrate to this system later.
  
• POE Hat – My first purchase of the Official POE Hat and already very impressed. I have used one from Pi Supply that worked for a little while then suddenly stopped but I have not attempted to troubleshoot.
  
• SD Card – These are my current favorites but any 8GB+ should suffice.
  
• DIN rail – I ordered a small section for now and can easily expand later.
  
• DIN rail mounts – Until I figure out my 3D printer (or replace it) these seemed like the best solution to get going quickly. Also, I like these as the mount the Pi perpendicular to the rail as opposed to parallel. This consumes much less of the rail and opens more space for Pi’s!
  
• POE capable switch – I already had a switch capable but any should work for this. Be sure to calculate your needs, 15W per Pi, and plan accordingly.
  
• Cat-6 Ethernet cables – For the price, just go with Cat-6. Cat-5 should work fine if you already have it lying around.
  
• 8 or 9mm standoffs – The POE Hat comes with Female/Female 9mm standoffs but we need Male/Female. I only have 8mm and 10mm so went with 8mm.

You're going to get polarized responses, with some people saying that nylon hardware is useless & breaks in every crash, while other people (myself included) have literally never broken nylon hardware in a stack in 3+ years of flying. That said, you're better off using actual standoffs, rather than building up nuts/spacers on a single long bolt.

​

https://www.amazon.com/LU-CC-Spacers-Stand-off-Accesories-Assortment/dp/B01CXZCSL8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=nylon+standoff&qid=1551287081&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I know it's hard to see but they're actually screwed in with standoffs so you can easily unscrew them with your fingers.

But if I wanted to replace the RPi with something bigger, then I would be screwed.

zip ties, - skip the heat shrink for the esc's around the arms. Just zip tie them.

LOTS of nylon spacers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G1QSNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solder braid

Hex drivers - https://www.amazon.com/PIXNOR-Hexagonal-Driver-Screwdrivers-Helicopter/dp/B00QLZGRHS/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467916704&sr=1-5&keywords=hex+driver

sma pigtails - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DNMAEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

rubbing alcohol(gets off flux)

90 degree single pin headers - https://www.amazon.com/2-54mm-40-Pin-Header-Connector-Length/dp/B00R1LQ3FC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467916531&sr=8-1&keywords=90+degree+single+pin+headers

mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P6KPKAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

wire cutters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need 1/4"-20 not G1/4". This is common for tripod mounts but I don't think you'll find a similar 45deg fitting.

I would use a 1/4-20 coupling nut and then a short section of 1/4-20 threaded rod that you bend into the angle you want. Likely easiest to bend a longer rod and then cut ends to length with a hacksaw.

You should also use a standard 1/4-20 nut on the rod next to the sensor to lock in its rotational position.

In the US at least, you'd be better off going to a hardware store and buying single pieces rather than trying online.

Edit: maybe a little cleaner, if you bend a longer standoff nut and the a short threaded rod in the end.

Lyn-Tron, Steel, Female, Zinc Plated, 1/4"-20 Screw Size, 0.5" OD, 3.25" Length, (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKK708K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QyNTzbJ697894

Empty circuit boards with pre-soldered holes are excellent for small projects. Aside from learning good soldering technique, which just takes practice, there aren't really any rules. You just use a big enough piece to hold all the parts. I tend to make a lot of fairly tiny things so I end up cutting these boards into smaller pieces with a hacksaw. Waste not want not.

One popular method for Uno is to make a shield, which is a circuit board with header pins that match those on the Arduino so it plugs right in on top.

You can also stack boards, drilling holes in a circuit board to match the Arduino mounting holes and using standoffs to attach them, and running wires between the board and the Arduino. Then screw the whole thing to the underside of a countertop or whatever.

There are also tons of plastic enclosures in all shapes and sizes, with mounting holes, edge-gripping grooves, waterproof grommets, all sorts of schemes to hold things. If you have access to a 3d printer you can design and print your own custom ones.

Details:

• Gateron blues on the number keys, greens on the rest
  
• SA Filco keycaps and blue LEDs
  
• Bought nylon standoffs and rubber bumpers from Amazon
  
  Had trouble soldering the SMD underlighting and didn't want to do any damage to the PCB, so I left it alone for now. Will probably revisit it at some point, but I think the only thing worse than soldering SMDs is desoldering them ;)

You just have to make sure you have holes for standoffs in the same place on the case as you have on your plate.

It depends on what you've already ordered you just need to drill / order a drilled holes in places that match.

Don't even need a bullet button, you just need a means of affixing the magazine with a tool. A threaded standoff that fits the threads on the magazine retainer can be cranked down on threaded post with pliers in place of the standard button and spring. Threaded standoff costs a lot less than a bullet button you'll be using for what, 27 more days? The thread on that is 10-32, I think. Super common. $17 for a pack of 10 on Amazon, buy 'em for all your friends!

For further context... the angular part in the middle of the monitor back prevents the VESA bracket from being flush with the top of the mount. Distance from screw hole base to a height that would clear the peak of the monitor back is about .75".

My initial thought was to use some standoffs like these or use washers with longer screws like these but the last thing I want is for the thing to come crashing down at some point. Perhaps a bit of locktite ought be enough? Or do I need some kind of big 1 piece spacer that will equally distribute the weight?

edit: In the photo you see one of the included Sim-Lab spacers that I ordered with the rig, unfortunately its not long enough and doubling them up results in a gap between the two standoffs.

The acrylic "glue" is more like a bond, since it actually softens the pieces of acrylic and chemically bonds them together. Was considering bonding two layers together since they are 1/16 sheets but it looks like it is holding together pretty well. I use this tool to cut the pieces, this pack for the standoffs, and finally these m2 5mm screws. Oh also bumpons from hobby lobby for the bottom and I also got in on the aluminum cone feet in the recent drop on massdrop. Final version of the case will have cleaner cuts. Oh also.. I would recommend a step drill bit for drilling the holes, since the acrylic could crack in the drilling process.

Use some long spacers between the motherboard and whatever you chose to put down to it, avoid any inflammable material (especially the wood): https://www.amazon.it/filettatura-distanziatore-distanziatori-esagonali-confezione/dp/B013G1Q6X4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1504717856&sr=8-7&keywords=motherboard+spacers

Oh weird, I guess you'll probably have to make your own then, if you know someone with a 3D printer that'd be a pretty easy part to make. Could also do a ghetto fabulous solution with cable ties. Or nylon standoffs on the back side and just screw directly to those. https://www.amazon.com/NALAKUVARA-Spacers-Stand-off-Accessories-Assortment/dp/B01DD07PTW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1UPC0DTQK8WBQ&keywords=nylon+standoffs&qid=1555788835&s=gateway&sprefix=nylon+stand&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I picked up these from Amazon. 10 piece uxcell stainless steel standoffs for $8

Rather than extend the wires you could use some plastic adhesive backed PCB standoffs to mount to the metal and keep the PCB above it so it does not short ( https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Standoffs-Height-Offset-0-6x0-6/dp/B00QW1QMSU ) ANd if afraid that will not be enough a piece of adhesive backed rubber under the rest of the PCB would ensure there is no contact ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-x-6-Adhesive-Backed-Foam-Rubber-NFR-125-6-AB/261667716697 )

Sorry. Try this:

www.amazon.com/dp/B071L5S3BR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U-9gDb3VV28Q1

Sutemribor 420PCS M2 M3 M4 Male Female Hex Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNF3W7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wi1TDbTGWR7TC

I think I can link a bunch of these in sequence, make almost any size with some wiggle room to tighten, stick a pencil eraser top on both ends and bingo-bango done.

https://www.amazon.com/LuckIn-Standoffs-Stainless-Standoff-Advertising/dp/B07DWVCWJW?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_16413321_1&pf_rd_p=4d313b16-a98b-54f6-b11f-f7a5baffe7a9&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=16413321&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=TDVXK99W64GS2Y8WENNE&pf_rd_r=TDVXK99W64GS2Y8WENNE&pf_rd_p=4d313b16-a98b-54f6-b11f-f7a5baffe7a9

I think these are it.

Ah, well I've used these round standoffs before, and I think they would be good if you're looking for as much clearance as possible. 3mm diameter.