Best standoffs according to redditors

On the cheap side I would use 3M Dual Lock, it's similar looking to velcro but WAY stronger. Instead of hooks and loops it uses opposing mushroom tops, the one I linked is the medium strength (250) and I think a 4-5 cm square on all four corners would be more then strong enough to hold up an A2 aluminum print (don't use too much, it is strong!). It's also nice that unlike velcro you use the same material on both sides, so you don't have to keep track of what you put on the wall or print.


A step up from that in price would be aluminum standoffs. Nicer looking, but much pricier and requires drilling a hole in the wall.

Non-mobile: aluminum standoffs

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Don't even need a bullet button, you just need a means of affixing the magazine with a tool. A threaded standoff that fits the threads on the magazine retainer can be cranked down on threaded post with pliers in place of the standard button and spring. Threaded standoff costs a lot less than a bullet button you'll be using for what, 27 more days? The thread on that is 10-32, I think. Super common. $17 for a pack of 10 on Amazon, buy 'em for all your friends!

You need 1/4"-20 not G1/4". This is common for tripod mounts but I don't think you'll find a similar 45deg fitting.

I would use a 1/4-20 coupling nut and then a short section of 1/4-20 threaded rod that you bend into the angle you want. Likely easiest to bend a longer rod and then cut ends to length with a hacksaw.

You should also use a standard 1/4-20 nut on the rod next to the sensor to lock in its rotational position.

In the US at least, you'd be better off going to a hardware store and buying single pieces rather than trying online.

Edit: maybe a little cleaner, if you bend a longer standoff nut and the a short threaded rod in the end.

Lyn-Tron, Steel, Female, Zinc Plated, 1/4"-20 Screw Size, 0.5" OD, 3.25" Length, (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKK708K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QyNTzbJ697894

Parts List:

Frame - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24735__HobbyKing_Quadcopter_Frame_V1_USA_Warehouse_.html

Motors - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__48047__hexTronik_24gram_Brushless_Outrunner_1300kv_USA_Warehouse_.html

ESCs - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__47395__Afro_ESC_20Amp_Multi_rotor_Motor_Speed_Controller_SimonK_Firmware_USA_Warehouse_.html

Battery - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14975__Turnigy_2200mAh_3S_25C_Lipo_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html

Flight Controller (With LED ring board) - http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/flight-controllers/multiwii-pro-ez3-0-flight-controller-w-gps-option.html

Receiver - http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/accessories/lemon-dsm2-6-channel-receiver-end-pin-252.html

Props (one pair orange, one pair green) - http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/propellers/8-x-4-5-propeller-set-green.html

Power Distribution - http://witespyquad.gostorego.com/accessories/power-distribution-board.html

Stand-offs (used 20) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00137PXNS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bullet Connectors (needed 12) - https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=47862

Power Connectors - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FAPYXS/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Low Battery Warning - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41178__On_Board_Lipoly_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2s_4s_US_Warehouse_.html

I'm using my DX6i transmitter. So, without counting the cost of spares (I bought three batteries packs, and like 10 extra pairs of props), the build cost is $204, plus shipping. Not bad for my first attempt!

Fake edit: I almost forgot to put in that I cut about an inch off of a pool noodle, and replaced the absurdly crappy landing gear that came with my frame for doughnut-shaped cross sections. I love how they work!

Rather than extend the wires you could use some plastic adhesive backed PCB standoffs to mount to the metal and keep the PCB above it so it does not short ( https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Standoffs-Height-Offset-0-6x0-6/dp/B00QW1QMSU ) ANd if afraid that will not be enough a piece of adhesive backed rubber under the rest of the PCB would ensure there is no contact ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-x-6-Adhesive-Backed-Foam-Rubber-NFR-125-6-AB/261667716697 )

I picked up these from Amazon. 10 piece uxcell stainless steel standoffs for $8

The acrylic "glue" is more like a bond, since it actually softens the pieces of acrylic and chemically bonds them together. Was considering bonding two layers together since they are 1/16 sheets but it looks like it is holding together pretty well. I use this tool to cut the pieces, this pack for the standoffs, and finally these m2 5mm screws. Oh also bumpons from hobby lobby for the bottom and I also got in on the aluminum cone feet in the recent drop on massdrop. Final version of the case will have cleaner cuts. Oh also.. I would recommend a step drill bit for drilling the holes, since the acrylic could crack in the drilling process.

A few lengths work, but 8mm was easier to find in bulk for my GB. In bulk that wouldn’t take 1-2months to get here from China lol

Most little stand-off/spacer “kits” from Amazon have a dozen or so varieties of Standoffs. So people can have there perfect hight for $10 and have hundreds left over for other builds and uses :)

I don't really understand what you mean by 'can't get it leveled'. That could mean almost anything. My first question is, have you moved the Z endstop to the right spot? Second question, have you screwed the springs all the way to maximum tension, and then release them to level, rather than sitting them all the way at the top and screwing them down?

If all else fails, just get an auto bed leveling setup. That way you can just buy brass standoffs (https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-120pcs-Female-Standoff-Assortment/dp/B018C19KJ0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503444378&sr=8-4&keywords=m3+standoffs)

and since the aluminum Y carriage is perfectly flat, plus the fixed distance due to brass spacers, your only level factor is the warping of the aluminum bed.

Not to mention with that setup you can do 3 point leveling which is far and beyond better than 4 point, so much that it boggles my mind people actually build printers with this in mind.

Unfortunately the MP MS has an absolute garbage board (Melzi) which prevent you from using an auto bed leveling sensor normally.

For further context... the angular part in the middle of the monitor back prevents the VESA bracket from being flush with the top of the mount. Distance from screw hole base to a height that would clear the peak of the monitor back is about .75".

My initial thought was to use some standoffs like these or use washers with longer screws like these but the last thing I want is for the thing to come crashing down at some point. Perhaps a bit of locktite ought be enough? Or do I need some kind of big 1 piece spacer that will equally distribute the weight?

edit: In the photo you see one of the included Sim-Lab spacers that I ordered with the rig, unfortunately its not long enough and doubling them up results in a gap between the two standoffs.

Sorry. Try this:

www.amazon.com/dp/B071L5S3BR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U-9gDb3VV28Q1