(Part 2) Best spark plug & ignition tools according to redditors

Or you could just go buy one of these and have the thing opened in less than a minute.

> a small hole poked into the grommet in the firewall

Big gotcha here! If you do this, use a wire insertion tool and not a drill. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE476-Wire-Insertion-Combo/dp/B000K1IEAC

I did the drill thing on my brand new F-150 less than 4 hours after I drove it off the lot about 2 years ago and I promptly drilled right into the driver-side wiring loom! Luckily I had the battery disconnected and the air-bag didn't go off. When I pulled the drill back it came out with a big ball of ripped wires and copper shards. Stoopid me was sure that I had the drill angled to avoid the loom, but somehow I screwed it up and had to spend the next six hours outside below freezing in the dark repairing the damage. That's a lump-in-my-throat sinking feeling I never want to have again!

wire gauges.. this one from CTA tools has the most sizes.. but its crazy expensive at $3.00 https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-3238-Spark-Gauge/dp/B00PISL328

i generally use my feeler gauge set. with extreme care to NOT put any side force on the center conductor/insulator. you don't want to snap the insulator deep in the spark plug bore causing a really hard to find misfire.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Line-Spark-Engine-Tester/dp/B01CRKCOH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492744295&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=spark+tester&psc=1

I'd also suggest something like this to help get your plugs seated correctly, in addition to the other tools caving311 mentioned.

Talked to the head mechanic at the Subaru dealership when my wife and I were there picking up parts for her '05 Outback, and this is what they used. He did say that a piece of fuel line or snug-fitting hose would work just as well.

If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, definitely take it to the dealership. $150 for plugs and wires isn't that bad, and they should also be able to check it out and make sure it is just your plugs/wires and not a clogged/bad fuel injector.

I don't own the bike, but here's the manual. Air compressor the gunk out of the recess before removing the spark plug. Bikes typically come with the spark plug tool in the original tool kit. If you didn't get one with it, ask a moto friend if they have one or head to a moto wrecker or bike shop and see if they have one spare, they ususally looks like this. Otherwise, buy the new spark plugs, then buy the matching spark plug socket.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6918-Spark-Plug-Remover/dp/B00C6R1P6I

Pretty sure you can use something like this. Probably could just make it out of a coat hanger, all you want is to have it hook around the boot to pull it out and not by the wire.

This would be the kit you need unless you do as IronSlanginRed mentioned and dig to it

Just remember, If you tap the hole or drill, fill the grooves of the tap and/or drill with some heavy bearing grease and go SLOW. This way the grease will catch most if not all of the shavings.

Didn't see a spark plug socket on the list.

https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool-Supply-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B005VR6ZQA

I bought this and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LB8PI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510099229&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tusk+spark+plug+socket&dpPl=1&dpID=31hdTR5ZzbL&ref=plSrch

It is not possible to tell why it won't start just by listening. It kind of tries to fire twice, this could be weak spark or poor fuel supply that gets a bit better at that point. Or, one cylinder has low compression and the starter can turn faster on that stroke, but hopefully this is not the case.

If you want to do some diagnosis, check for spark and fuel. To check for fuel, try spraying some quick start into the throttle body (where the engine gets is air). This is a substitute for gas, if the engine tries to start then good chance you have a fuel supply problem - bad pump, relay, maybe a clogged filter. Or it is out of gas... I once watched some guys try to start/boost start a car, someone came along with a can of gas, put some in, and bingo that was it all along. To check for spark, the best way is to get a spark tester, which you plug in inline with a spark plug and watch what happens when trying to start. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HU2L1NU/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=YUBIU&pf_rd_r=D9W4KSPDG9DHQZT4BGBG&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HU2L1NU&pd_rd_w=yHcJX&pf_rd_i=spark+tester&pd_rd_r=c7b11fc8-bff3-4e6a-a8b8-690513c01be1&ie=UTF8&qid=1542685893&sr=1

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I believe the main difference in the 70,000 mile service from the others is the addition of spark plug replacement. Years ago on my former E-class I was able to do this service on my own. It required a special tool found here: spark plug 17mm tool.

The tool makes it much easier to pop the plugs out of the block. I purchased the replacement plugs on Amazon at the time. This service, like most, also includes replacement of various filters (air, fuel, oil change, etc.). If you DIY, you can perform the whole thing for a $200-$400 depending on the parts that you go with.

also use a thread chaser of the right size on it if its rough or dirty to clean the threads. spark plugs should rotate smoothly. like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20020-Limited-Access-Spark/dp/B008MFR2IS/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R5ERHJ59V33ER545DTTX

use little grease in the grooves to catch the dirt and grime
go in a little then pull out and clean the chaser then go in more. Use a 1 foot or less stiff small diameter hose over the back tip to start the spark plug so no cross threading occurs, as the hose will slip before the threads will damage themselves. Maybe consider a touch of anti-seize on the threads on the new spark plugs if they were hard to get out.

I have an amazon gift card. These look good?

GEARWRENCH 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPh8CbWQXEXA9

A & E Hand Tools 4450A E-Z Grip Spark Plug Gap Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKMCDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RQh8CbWQM1TVT

You're right that automation, when done right, is generally more reliable and desirable due to precise repeatability. But the issue here is that the current ABL sensors/systems, from an engineering perspective, are not done right.

A properly engineered auto bed leveling system would actually turn the screws and physically level the bed. But the existing ABL sensors don't do that. They take readings and compute in firmware the orientation of the bed, and cause the Z axis to constantly adjust during the length of the print to compensate. This method opens the door to other issues that are unique to an ABL-enabled system:

• The sensors themselves can be thrown off by something as simple as a change in humidity levels, and their accuracy is hindered by a glass bed if your printer uses one or you wanted to try one.
  
• The microsteps required of the Z axis stepper(s) to perform the required very fine movements are not as stable as full steps, which could introduce noise in your Z layers.
  
• Even when they work, with a bed that is actually unlevel your models will be provably skewed. The sensor doesn't magically build up a couple of uneven first layers to build up a truly level base for the model to print on top of for the rest of the model's height. It just runs the same extruding G code as computed by your slicer, with skewed Z values to match the skew of the unlevel build plate. The more off-level your build plate is in reality, the more skew your completely printed model will have on all layers. To mitigate this effect you still need to manually get the bed into a generally level state before starting. There's no getting away from it.
  
  I don't think I have any "superstar talent", as you put it. I just use a feeler gauge to set a known distance from the nozzle to the bed in one corner, and zero out a digital dial gauge that I have mounted to my extruder carriage during leveling. Then I just move the extruder head around each corner of the build plate, adjusting the bed screws until the dial gauge reads within +/- 0.01mm (the tolerance of the gauge itself) of zero on each corner. It is a perfectly repeatable process, and takes no more than 2-3 minutes to get a perfectly level bed. (Edit: This is my method using those tools because I'm a perfectionist, but good results can also be had with the tried-and-true and dirt-cheap "paper between nozzle and bed" method). On a properly rigid system with good compression on the bed leveling springs, I only have to level once a month at most...and that's usually when I've changed something in the system that invalidates my previous leveling anyways.
  
  All this to say...I just believe your initial post was overly hyperbolic. It sounds like you had a bad experience, and if ABL worked to solve that problem for you, great! But to use your singular experience as a reason to emphatically suggest at length that someone new to the hobby should not even consider any printer that comes without ABL, especially when there are countless more people who have entered the hobby just fine without ABL? That's a bit much.

On Amazon.com too
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0460-Spark-Gauge/dp/B0022ZXI0U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1407195382&sr=8-4&keywords=motion+pro+spark+plug

I just got an 08 WK Limited 5.7 with 51k on it. Here is what I did immediately, I have the previous service records and it seems as though some of the work may have been done, it wasn't 100% clear and I just wanted to know a baseline.

Replace PCV Valve (cheap part, just unscrews by hand to replace, super easy), Clean Throttle Body (remove air box, remove throttle body, clean with ONLY isopropol alcohol and a clean rag) and install Billet Technology (or equivalent) Catch Can. This is all done because the PCV system on the Hemi basically sucks, you'll see when you remove the throttle body that it will most likely be gunked up, the PCV lets too much oil through. This is cured with the catch can. Immediately helps throttle response and minor hep to fuel economy.

Replace MAP Sensor. Honestly not really sure why, all the forums say do it, it's a $20 part and basically pop-out, pop-in replacement. A little tricky to get your hand in behind the manifold the get it, takes some maneuvering but be patient, you'll get it. Said to have positive effect on fuel economy.

Replace EGR Valve. This can be tricky as the alternator blocks one of the bolts. Many people will tell you to cut the bolt and install a new shorter one. This seems like a lot of extra work to me. I just removed the belt (easy to do) and unbolted the alternator (2 bolts). This took me all of about 6 minutes to do, then the new EGR (and new gaskets) just bolt back on.

While I had that off I replaced the serpentine belt. Cheap enough, and why the hell not, now I know exactly ow old it is. While you're in there check all your pulleys, tensioner, etc. Make sure they move smoothly and quietly. I forgot this step and I DID have a squeak I wanted to address. I still have said squeak. Next nice day I'm gonna get back in there and check.

Spark plugs. I have an 08, so it wasn't hard. Unbolt each coil, gently crack the plugs with a ratchet (I have a great plug ratchet set I'll link below, get it, it will help with all your plug changes on any deep well hemi). Change your plugs. I got the Champion 57- Copper core generally the recommended plug), dab of dielectric on the end (no anti-size, I don't like it, I change plugs every 30k so I shouldn't need it, some say anti seize leads to accidental over-torque, personal preference I guess). Gap plugs to .44 and torque to 13ft.lbs.

Next I did K&N drop in air filter, swapped my air resonator for a SRT Inlet tube (take off, bought online for $20 shipped, search the STR forums for the for sale items) and extended the drain hole for more air inlet. Sounds great, that throaty cold air intake everyone loves without the risk of slurping up some water and hydro locking. Be sure to perform regular main on the filter, clean and il it as required by the spec.

Oil change. Mobil 1 Synthetic, 5w-20 & Mopar filter. Because oil change....

I also installed the fumoto quick valve to change my oil easier. It scares some people, I looked it over and feel confident that it will not open accidentally, it has a decent spring type safety.

I plan to soon flush and fill tranny, radiator, transfer case & differentials. After that is all done I may swap out a few more sensors. IAT, O2, Crank Position, etc. With all that complete I will feel as confident as I possibly can in the maintenance of my Hemi.

I may point out that i'm not really mechanically inclined. I have just been doing a lot of research on forums (jeepgarage, cherokeesrt8, jeepsunlimited, etc) I founds lots of good write ups, reviews and information. Take you time, do your research and everything will be there.

Generally my truck runs smoother, quieter, more powerful and a little better MPG. It's only been about 100 miles since I did all this, but for the overall $$ I spend (under $400) it was totally worth it. At a dealer my guess is this is like 1500 worth of work. Below are some links. Have fun.



Tune up kit
http://www.amazon.com/GRAND-CHEROKEE-COMMANDER-5-7L-HEMI/dp/B003ZW9EUM

Spark Plug Tool
http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-3-Piece-Magnetic-Universal/dp/B000NIEECO

Fumoto Oil valve
http://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?partname=F106N&partnumber=33

Spark Plug Change Tutorial
http://www.jeepgarage.org/f156/diy-hemi-5-7l-spark-plug-change-50750.html

EGR (I didnt follow exaclt, i just removed alternator, this shows all steps including cutting botl. You choose your own adventure here...)
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?516169-DIY-how-to-install-a-new-EGR-w-pics&highlight=egr%20valve

PCV Valve
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/changing-pcv-valve-1336134/

Throttle body cleaning
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/throttle-body-cleaning-tips-1342502/index2.html

MAP Sensor (start at post #8 in this thread, thats where the good info starts, but feel free to read from beginning if you want)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/5-7l-map-sensor-location-1340713/

And for ALL the info on your WK, use this site as your bible.
http://wkjeeps.com/

Hope this helps a bit!!!

Maybe look for another break some where?

The Coil pack is good, fuel injector is good, the connector is good, and the spark plug is good.

I would try to see if the fuel injector is firing at all. If it is, then I would run a spark test (there is a special tool, its like $12. It plugs onto your spark plug, then your coil pack plugs onto it. Every time your spark plug is suppose to fire it, a light will turn on.)

Here is one on amazon for $7

Maybe you can go to harbor freight and try to buy one?

if both the fuel injector and spark are working, then maybe run a compression test? Thats usually the last test we perform for a misfiring cylinder. Most of the time it ends up being spark.

Just had the insert coin issue about 2 minutes ago. Looked over and saw a plug gapping coin. Works wonders. The increasing edge works great for opening the tin.

Edit: one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J544IU/ref=pd_aw_sims_9?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1