Best table saw accessories according to redditors
We found 107 Reddit comments discussing the best table saw accessories. We ranked the 38 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 107 Reddit comments discussing the best table saw accessories. We ranked the 38 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It is no no where near $800 to fix the saw once triggered. I got a few cartridges last year for like $70 each.
*edit to prove the troll below wrong
Saw stop cartridge purchasable today with free shipping for $79
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
The false positives can be problem and the cartridges are somewhat expensive. I've seen a few guys trade them back for regular saws. When the patent expires maybe the prices will come down a bit, because it is a pretty nice tool.
You're confusing "blade cartridge" with "brake cartridge".
This is not a blade.
"Compatible with all standard 10 inch blades".
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
$63 for the brake cartridge plus whatever the blade costs, a good 10" blade could cost $100 so $200 was a decent guess.
To be fair though those table saws can cost $10,000 if you get them industrial sized and all tricked out.
The brake is $65 and most of the time you'll want to replace the blade as well which is going to be anywhere from 50 to 150.
I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.
Zero clearance insert
Dado zero clearance insert
That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack
Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.
If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference
Start with one GR Rripper
if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout
Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.
Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.
Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD
I'll never fault someone for erring on the side of caution, and it only has to save you once for the 2k to be worth it, but all you really need is something like this - where the blade passes under the tool.
Look for a micro-jig http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-SP-2-TK-Splitter-Steelpro/dp/B00B03PMY0.
Splitters keep the saw kerf from pinching on the blade causing safety issues like kickback, or keep the piece between the blade and fence past the saw cut from riding up the blade and thowing the piece back at you. Some kickbacks can cause your hand to be drawn right into the blade.
Riving knives are even better but not available on some older models.
They are pretty important for safety reasons. They serve two purposes, keeping the cut piece pushed against the fence and keeping the cutoff piece from pinching closed and binding on the blade.
Did a quick Google hunt, seems you can get a 10" SawStop cartridge as cheap as $70 on Amazon, but the specialty ones seem to be slightly more expensive.
Same here. My Gripper basically is unused because I cannot find myself comfortable enough to use it with my hands over the blade. I'd actually use my bandsaw to rip anything thinner than 1" (and use my drum sander or planer afterward. Anything wider and I'm using this Big Horn push stick which is stable. So basically, the Gripper is sitting there as paper weight :(
Others have mentioned making a splitter but you can also buy one. Microjig makes what's pretty much standard at this point: https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-JIG-SP-2-TK-SPLITTER-SteelPro/dp/B00B03PMY0
Having a good fence already, a zero clearance insert, and a splitter are pretty much the best things to do in terms of use/safety. The only other recommendation I'd give (looks like you've done this) is to keep the top cleaned and smooth.
This thing has been great: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC
I feel so much safer using it than I did using crappier push-sticks. The videos really show how you can use safely, and it's quick and easy to adjust.
You ever try anything like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-035-Cookie-Grippers/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347067719&sr=1-2&keywords=woodworking
Was wondering if they work.
Cross-cutting is easy enough, and so are sheet goods.
For ripping you'll want a featherboard and a push-stick. You could get a commercial push-stick like the Grr-ripper, or you could make your own. I prefer the "shoe" style from that page.
They'll definitely work, just be very careful with that old saw. I would suggest you add in a splitter.
MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YOMOBbGMGV4PH
With the fence locked into place a short distance from the saw blade, and with the saw unplugged, take a measuring tape or ruler and measure the distance from one tooth at the front of the blade to the fence, then, rotate the blade so that tooth is now at the back of the blade and measure again. If the measurements are identical then your fence is square. That is the single most important aspect to getting use out of that table saw, aside from it actually running.
My fence was not consistently square so I made one that was. I also replaced the miter gauge with this. I also switched to a link belt. With the amount that I have to shorten the belt, every 3rd full belt that I buy should allow me to make a 4th belt with the leftovers. I have not replaced my pulleys with machined pulleys yet, but I'm not sure that I'll need to. I did also get a PALS kit as a precautionary measure. Leecraft makes some nice zero clearance inserts and Micro Jig makes a splitter insert kit that will help prevent your cuts from binding on the blade.
Aside from that, there are restoration video playlists on Youtube for the 113 series table saws in all their various sub-types.
It's not $1000 every time it fires... New saw-stop cartriges are about $80, and a new blade (which becomes destroyed in the process). So relatively cheap, considering you still have your fingers to count your $$$.
$69, plus a new blade.
GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XV54CbGH3S534
Steve Ramsey likes the Gripper from Microjig: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC
If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.
http://www.amazon.com/Mesa-Vista-Design-GRIP-TITE-Featherboard/dp/B0000223VF
For push sticks, stay away from stuff like this.
Instead, go for something like [this] (http://www.finewoodworking.com/pdf/Push_Stick.pdf), which you can make yourself. There are all kinds of designs actually, but having more surface area contact the wood is a good idea as it allows you to put more pressure on the wood to keep it in place, both downward towards the table saw and towards the fence and away from the blade.
You can make a featherboard, but you can get a good enough plastic one at Harbor Freight for 5 bucks.
You should get or make a zero clearance insert. Making them can be kinduva pain in the ass, so I would just order one from woodcraft for 20 bucks.
As far as riving knifes go, you could get away with a micro-jig splitter, which might be easier than finding old parts. This is what I did for my saw, also an older craftsman and it works pretty great.
Lastly, eventually you're gonna want to make a crosscut sled as this will make it a lot easier and safer to do crosscutting.
Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.
A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.
If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.
Tiny-T Pocket rule
6" precision t rule
A really nice miter gauge
Router setup bars
A nice marking knife
Marking gauge
Magports
Tapeboss
Grr-ripper
Dozuki & Ryoba
Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)
Shop apron
Quick sanding strips
Digital Angle Gauge
Digital Height Gauge
Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey
You do know that every time that is used, it destroys itself and has to be replaced right?
Imagine that on a scale like an escalator where anyone who happens to press a button causes thousands and thousands of damages.
edit: $100 replacement , i'm thinking a scale of hundreds of thousands for a similar setup on a large scale
edit2: you could probably buy a whole new escalator for hundreds of thousands, idk how much the cost would be
To add to Tsuichendist's post, you can also make specialized sleds and jigs in order to make consistent cuts while keeping your hands well away from the blade.
Amazon sells a 5-piece push kit for about $26. You can also find aftermarket splitters, but they can be expensive.
Look at this too:
https://www.amazon.com/UHMW-Strip-48-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B01IU6U1UE
Quite a few Kreg products seem to be dipping at both Amazon/Home Depot.
TheirKreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge Systemfor $70 below the typical $150 caught my eye but I don't know if even at $80 it would be useful enough over my sleds.This one is a goner.
Few other things:
Kreg PRS2100 Bench Top Router Table $144 (Normally around $250)Kreg KMS8000 Precision Trak and Stops Kit $72 (Normally around $140)Update: All gone.
Good looking chair! My wife wants me to build he an Adirondack; did you find particular plans? Or make some yourself?
Also, for a quick fix until you get a router table, I've heard good things about the Bench Dog Bench Cookies. I just got a set myself but haven't used them for holding a small piece while I rout yet. Perhaps someone who has these can weigh in on how well they work.
Thanks, Iโve been looking into this. Anybody have experience with this (MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bmKyCbBQ5E1XN) product, seems easy to implement
You can buy replacement brake cartridges (the only part that gets destroyed and needs replacing) on Amazon for 70 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ So the initial investment is having to buy the Sawstop at whatever price the guy is charging for his custom saw but after that it's only 70 bucks per finger not lost. Not a bad deal. Also he only makes the saws himself because he has to because no hardware company wanted to take on the risk of his idea potentially failing one time on one of their saws and them having to deal with the lawsuit. He never wanted to manufacture saws but when no one else would take it on decided it needed to be available to people and took it upon himself to do so. I saw a Youtube video about the SawStop once and then went down a bender of videos regarding the product because I thought it was so cool.
I have the 4512, and the plates are extremely difficult to make on your own since it is so irregular and gets to be very thin on the sides. I tried and failed many times. Get one of these: Leecraft ZC insert Expensive for an insert, yes, but well worth it in my opinion.
Also, as others have said, you don't screw in the plates, the screws are there to level it. The plate sits on top of the screws.
\> I just answered a post with this question.
And you kept answering with angle of declination and not angular velocity.
\> Perspective is linearly constant.
Yes, and that's why it doesn't match observation. The observed sun does not move in a linearly constant way. It move in an angularly constant way.
\> You're only assuming 15 degrees because you assume it moves in a circle around the observer
I'm not assuming. I'm observing. As I said in response, 15 degrees is an observation, not a calculation. Measure it yourself.
\> I'll have to figure if there's any way to measure if it's moving in a circular or straight perspective path.
The most direct way is to take a device similar to this miter gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-Table-Replacement-Assembly-2610011708/dp/B00C1KDZCC/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1554171691&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2801729011&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-1
Mount it on something so that you can point the stick part at the sun. Log the time and angle. An hour later, move the stick to point to the new location of the sun. It should be 15 degrees change. And it will be 15 degrees throughout the day.
You could also use shadows. But you seem to have some weird ideas about how shadows behave, so I won't go into that.
\> There doesn't seem to be.
OMG, you're so fucking stupid.
These are good too: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC
They can hold the peice and the offcut so that helps prevent kickback.
Take your time, cut slowly and keep your eye on the blade as if you push the price through to fast it won't like it.
Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Edit: spelling
With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.
You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.
Get a piece of uhwm plastic or just cut up a white plastic cutting board...easier to sand and shape and dimensionally stable.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UHMW-Strip-48-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B01IU6U1UE
I've starting using this stuff.
For the really, REALLY lazy...
FYI, OP's design is excellent and his reasoning really, really sound. I have the one I linked to, because I find the rubber to give me even more control than the home-grown version, but you should at least use that.
I also have a GRIPPR, (which was an Xmas present). I find it too cumbersome to adjust and use for most things (hence the orange one above), but in specialized cases it's wonderful. Probably wouldn't spend the money out of pocket though. (I've been through 15 woodworking Xmases so far, so at this point I put really, really obnoxious stuff on my list).
I just bought one of these to try on my table saw: https://www.amazon.com/MJ-SPLITTER-SteelPro-Kerf-MICROJIG/dp/B003E623C0
At least for straight cuts using a zero-clearance table saw insert, I'm hoping it will make things a little safer.
Congrats! I have the same saw and love it! To make it even better, you may want to consider getting a zero clearance throat insert. I got one and it is a really nice, cheap improvement
https://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DW-2-Zero-Clearance-Insert-DeWalt/dp/B0000223V9
I haven't looked at the Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System yet, but I like that you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the flip stop.
I did look at the Incra MITER1000SE Miter Gauge Special Edition With Telescoping Fence and Dual Flip Shop Stop and INCRA Miter1000/HD Miter Gauge when I went to Rockler awhile back. Though these both have telescoping fences with dual flip stops, it doesn't look like you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the included fence stops. The sacrificial fence would help reduce tear-out.
Makita corded orbital sander for sure, any good 10" portable table saw such as Dewalt 745 or Skilsaw SPT70WT-22 that can later fit into one of these, and a Dewalt 734 planer if you really think you need one.
On a budget, a jointer can probably wait. Most of the things you listed as wanting to build won't need it. You'll get a lot more use out of a router early on, and as a bonus a good router costs a lot less than a jointer, and they take up a lot less space. Milwaukee, Dewalt, Bosch, Makita, Rigid, Porter Cable and others all make good routers. Routers generally come in two sizes, standard and compact (aka palm or trim) size. I have a standard size Milwaukee 5615, and it works great. I'm planning on getting the Dewalt DWP611pk for my compact, mainly because it's a highly regarded router, and it comes with a plunge base.
You might consider, instead of getting a table saw, getting a good circular saw and using a guide to do your rip cuts. You can get a Skilsaw SPT77WML-22, a really long ruler and a couple of quick clamps and make cuts just as accurate as any table saw, though it takes a lot more setup for each cut. You don't even need the heavy-duty Skilsaw (I sometimes do this with my baby sized Milwaukee M12 circular saw) but getting a good, big saw now will save you from having to get something more capable later.
If you're serious about getting into woodworking or carpentry, do yourself a favor and get better tools. Ryobi is ok if you're only going to use it once a year, maybe (I understand quality has gone up recently, but still...). Even then I wouldn't trust the accuracy much.
If $500 really is a hard limit, I would focus on getting a circular saw, a router, a sander, some good measuring/marking tools and a crapton of clamps. As many clamps as you can get, big clamps, pipe clamps, quick clamps, right-angle clamps, belt clamps, everything. You will never have too many clamps. However many clamps you have divided by about 4 is the number of things you can have gluing together at once. Get lots of clamps.
Edit: be sure to have some money set aside for good saw blades. Finish-quality saw blades can be $50-100 just for the blade.
I found this product that you can use with a zero clearance insert. It looks like on closer inspection my saw can accept a riving knife but these seem pretty reasonable.
MJ SPLITTER Table Saw Safety Splitter and Riving Knife Alternative for Zero Clearance Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_oUS5Bb7J7DGDB
Leecraft makes zero clearance inserts for that saw. You can pick them up on Amazon. You can of course make your own as you were saying, but I went with the pre-made, phenolic ones. They fit my saw perfectly and lasted for years. They make the one in the link below and a dado insert.
http://www.amazon.com/LEECRAFT-RIDGID-R4512-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0057EANZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414356023&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+leecraft
I just picked up the DWE7491RS and it seems as nice as any cabinet saw my Grandpa ever had. Granted it won't compete with the extreme high end, but it holds it's own with many ~$1000 saws. I didn't even really need to make adjustments, everything was dead on out of the box. Only minor inconvenience is the lower rip capacity. 31.5" has been a little restricting a couple times but I figured something out.
No issues with power, although the worst I've tried so far is 3" cedar.
They offer a dado throatplate. Well reviewed but I haven't tried it yet.
While you can cut aluminum with ordinary woodworking tools, it makes a hecka mess and the chips are nasty sharp. And by the time youโve got a big enough, thick enough piece, you arenโt that far off a store bought plate.
A phenolic plate from amazon is only $26 and comes with hardware
https://www.amazon.com/DCT-Universal-Router-Insert-Inches/dp/B077383KDP/
If you are going to mostly leave it table mounted and donโt need any fancy stuff, you can just screw it to a piece of 1/2 plywood. There are many videos on this on YouTube.
I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.
So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?
Here is a link to it,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E
You can get a blank plate on amazon. You might have to do a little retrofitting to the plate to get the riving knife to come up correctly.
http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DW-2-Zero-Clearance-Insert-DeWalt/dp/B0000223V9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425665422&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+dw744+throat+plate
There are some kinds of aftermarket splitter-style solutions.
Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM
I don't know how good that thing is in practice. Certainly not as good as a real solid riving knife/bladeguard combination, but maybe much better than nothing.
Without a riving knife, it's very easy to have horrible accidents.
Just a second of letting attention slip and the wood goes flying and maybe drags your hand into the blade.
With a riving knife and blade guard, you basically have to push your hand actively into the blade from the front.
Which happens, of course, but much less frequently then the kind of kickback-induced accidents that are so frequent without riving knives.
​
​
I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.
So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?
Here is a link to it,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E
So here's some of what is on my list-- I just copied and pasted over. Some other items to consider would be new saw blades, a low angle block plane, clamps (you can never have too many clamps), featherboards, a table saw thin rip jig, a shop apron, 6 inch metal pocket ruler, keyless chuck for your drill press, and I think that about exhausts my ideas..
Hurricane HTC125 Large Dovetail Jaws ($40)
MJ Splitters for Thin Kerf ($25)
Harbor Freight Pockethole Jig ($50 after 20% coupon-- only buy if you have a coupon)
Coping saw ($5-25)
A pair of holdfasts ($35 +$10S&H)
Edit: Was on phone earlier, added links
well let's look at the amazon order I just made.
camera - $200
tablet - $180
shirt - $20
shirt - $20
heart thing for wife - $70
loppers - $30
bt headphones - $50
foodsaver - $100
jeggings (wife) - $20
bra (wife) - $30
plan weights - $10
socks - $10
That leaves me with another $260 to spend...
I'm going to delete the wife stuff and the socks...
and go $10 over by buying a PS4 - $400
I can buy games for it later
You can purchase off amazon as well. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1BJ
Close to $60 to $80 now, from a quick amazon search.
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001G9MGZQ&pd_rd_r=F4FZFQDDMY8B5D2MCR4K&pd_rd_w=yuck6&pd_rd_wg=Zb56s&psc=1&refRID=F4FZFQDDMY8B5D2MCR4K
it is literally just a $US69 single component sensor that needs to be replaced - plus the cost of replacing the blade if the blade is damaged. (The blades aren't always damaged and usually don't need to be replaced)
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
My dad ended up putting a hinge with a board about 1x2 over the power controls. Drill a big enough hole to put your finger through to power it on, then a dowel or screw just over the off button. The board ran to the ground so all he has to do is slightly kick the end of the board to shut off the saw. Really simple and cheap way to hit the stop button quickly.
If you havenโt seen them already, thereโs a product called sawstop.
SawStop TSBC-10R2 Table Saw Brake Cartridge for 10-Inch Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_61biAb9WAWE8Y
I think this is amazing. If you watch videos and look at their Instagram page youโll see how they work and people that have had them work. Youโre left with basically a scratch. It completes a current when you touch the blade then jams and aluminum block to the blade stopping it and then sucks the blade down. I donโt know which saws it fits though and the only other draw back is you need a new blade after and it may trigger on wet wood.
I use this one from Amazon and love it. It's pretty big but I'm completely in control with my work.
http://smile.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I
Yeah, be really careful, I tried setting it on top of some bench cookies once when I was new, and I broke my router and ruined the wood, it was a big hunk too, always play safe!
There's nothing saw specific about a push stick, and they are cheap and easy to find. Here's one I like:
http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405315059&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+push+stick
You'd need to check the saw. If it doesn't, these little plastic things are very helpful: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00L7KT6PM&pd_rd_wg=z88nE&pd_rd_r=C7HZC8YSW2E73K7JEAE1&pd_rd_w=p8Tm1
Here ya go GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TcSXBbPYTVK0F
Pair them up with a set of MJ splitters and it's a beautiful thing when you push that first board through the blade like buttah.
Nope $70. https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541987400&sr=8-1&keywords=saw+stop+cartridge
Dado cartridges are a bit more expensive
I bought a kit for it on amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/Leecraft-Zero-Clearance-Insert-Dewalt-Colors/dp/B0794FMX21/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521482008&sr=8-1&keywords=dwe7480+zero+clearance+insert
I deviated a bit from the directions in that I took my jig saw and sawed to the end of the insert in order to make it so the riving knife is still usable with the insert.
These may help to get a better grip on smaller pieces. Learning with something big like a piece of 4x4, slowly, may allow you to learn the action of the router without worrying so much about holding it timidly. Small shallow passes makes a huge difference too. Less wood to grab and try to cut through. Try with the cutting part of the bit just barely off the table. Make a run see how it handles and then bring the bit up more. https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K
Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.
https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501446368&sr=8-1&keywords=jointer+paddles
Push blocks I guess, just didn't realize they were called that.
Not OP, but I sometimes use a jig for it. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71035-Table-Saw-Taper/dp/B01H1382NU? However if you don't have one, you can saw most of the waste of using a bandsaw (or ripsaw) and then plane the rest.
Yep! DeWalt contractor saw (7491RS) with a Freud dado stack. I believe it's the 6" stack. DeWalt sells a dado insert specifically for their portable saws so I picked up one of those, I think it was this one https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE7402DI-Throatplate-10-Inch-Portable/dp/B00NJPUYGS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1494083392&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+dado+insert
I nominate /u/Glasspirate for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BE5CQNQKYRGQ&coliid=ILWPSHDMT376T) because he is cool and is a very positive person and /u/kratz5ive for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9OPJIO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=16ATUS4UFAYN7&coliid=I294CI84TRYQCX) because he is super cool and nice.
Yup. You blow a 70 dollar cartridge plus wreck your blade:
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
got google?
https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-Table-Replacement-Assembly-2610011708/dp/B00C1KDZCC
Edit: yes that's a tablesaw but it's a skil. Slots a slot, can't be that hard to find something the same width.
One vote for GRR-Rippers.
http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9167-Safety-5-Piece-Package/dp/B000M0AS9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381596612&sr=8-1&keywords=push+stick
WAY safer than a shop built thing and cheap. They work great.