(Part 2) Best pipe fittings according to redditors

Four inch fittings are usually made to fit inside a hose -- not to mate with other fittings. So use a short length of hose, or a Fernco plumbing flexible coupling sleeve, to connect them.

For shop-vac hoses, the fittings come in male and female. For example, you can get a F-F coupler (just a short length of plastic pipe) to connect two male 2.5-in fittings.

For reference, the shop-vac male 2.5 fittings have an outer-diameter (OD) of about 2.28-in but are usually slightly tapered. The female fittings have an ID of about 2.30-in.

I also find this coupler useful, which is male shop-vac on one side, and male 4-in hose on the other:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3J60O6

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB56SAU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-3844062-9825103

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Water hammer possibly. Look into a water hammer arrester.

This worked for me when I had the same issue.

Sioux Chief Mfg 660-TK Female Swivel Ballcock Nut by Male Ballcock Thread Mini Rester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JRGAMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-t9Izb3WE1SE3

GX16-2
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FB56SAU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-3844062-9825103

Looks like this. The valve part is set back so the water cuts off inside your house. So there is less chance it will freeze.

Homewerks VFF-ASP-C19PA Anti-Siphon Frost Free Sillcock, 1/2-Inch Male Thread or 1/2-Inch Solder, 1/2-Inch inlet by ¾ inch garden hose thread outlet by 12-Inch in length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4VE1MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hwqiDb9VY8SBX

Yep, you need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC057UK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00BC057UK&linkCode=as2&tag=aquarnetwo-20&linkId=P7JMPQCUL77BXB44
so you don't waste water.
You can message me if you need any help installing it

The white line? That's coming from the dishwasher. I think, I can use these two items where the dishwasher connects.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TIZI68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WnvhAb5R5TFDK

And

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XDMEK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sqvhAb4MS86DC

I don't see why you would need 2 coolers. Also those cylindrical coolers are more expensive than the rectangular ones by quite a bit. The stir plate is overkill even though it's "free".

Make your own mash tun! This is all stainless unlike the one you linked. Brass sucks.

52 quart cooler $39

Stainless spigot with bulkhead and bushing $29

6" stainless screen $10

1/2" stainless barb adapter $7

And some 1/2" foodsafe silicone tubing, maybe 3 feet

Assembly is super easy, just remove the plastic spigot and put on the stainless one.

Yeah, you can get them at places like Home Depot and amazon for around $25.

https://smile.amazon.com/PlumBest-M25127R3-2-Inch-27-Inch-Water/dp/B0069QU7Z2

I just redid my kitchen as well so I bought one of these and one of these to clean up the ends, to make sure I got a clean cut every time. If you think you might do more pex work in future, probably worth dropping $20 to get them.

But if this is a one time thing, pex is pretty soft - you could use a hacksaw, or even a utility knife, and just clean up the cut with the knife afterward. Key is to make sure your cut is perpendicular to the pipe, and that there are NO stray bits of plastic around the rim at the cut end Put a little bevel on the end with a knife for best results. And make a little mark 1" from the end of the pipe, so you can make sure it is inserted all the way into the fitting.

These are GREAT connetors. They come in multiple diameter sizes too.

Here is the proper tubing too. Again they come in different diameters.

You need something similar to this that’s fits yours sink. I would double check your measurements first, but this one will work on most US sinks.

JG Speedfit ASVPP1LF 3/8-Inch by 3/8-Inch by 1/4-Inch Angle Stop Adapter Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKF2JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cW20AbQK14V7M

Fyi. Just did this project. I used

Superior Tool 35034 3/4-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q0QOVE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And

SharkBite Deburring Pipe and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K6QFSU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Make sure your cutting tool is the right size though. It was a breeze for me.

Thanks! I ended up ordering these:
Decor Star VSF38-27 3/8" OD 6 mm ID Vessel Sink Faucet Stainless Steel Flexible Water Supply Hoses 27" Long, UPC, cUPC x 2 (1 Pair) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EA15BJK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_mCHyCbD90B1TG

You may not need a frost free in FL, but you should install one with an integral vacuum breaker (anti-siphon). This prevents water from the hose being siphoned back into your potable water system. Anymore, hose bibbs with a vacuum breaker are required by code, and most of them just happen to also be frost free (meaning the actual valve is housed at the back of the fixture, which would place it inside the conditioned space of the house instead of outside at the point of use).

This is what you want. If you scroll down and look at "People also bought..." you'll see a SharkBite FIP. Get that, as well. Cut your pipe back inside the house to where it needs to be using a tubing cutter (NOT a hacksaw... you need a clean cut), pop the SharkBite FIP on, and screw the new sillcock into it (with a couple wraps of tape). The SharkBite can rotate on the pipe, so the orientation of your new hose bibb is whatever you want it to be; just screw it onto the house when it's pointing the right way.

this to this to this
of course you could just buy this

Like others have said, one of these is probably more along the line of what you want.

And no, you generally should not move the drain to one of the higher openings. Its at the bottom because that's where you want your condensate draining from. Ideally, you would install one of these in the higher openings to shut the system down if your drain clogs and water rises to that level.

you're missing a little piece in your RODI, some come with them, some dont.

Its this little doodad

Don't use a drain saddle, use a DLA-D drain adapter. It hooks to the dishwasher drain at the garbage disposal and allows you to tee in the RO drain. It's completely reversible and less likely to leak in the future. https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-164020-Plumbing-Adapter/dp/B009XDMEK4

If you don't want to use the DLA-D then drill the black elbow coming off the disposal

Grab one of these to use as your Hot Lauter Tun and you're good to go. Just drain your sparge water from your keggle in (I typically aim 5ish degrees high to accommodate heat loss on the transfer). Then vorlauf your mashtun and drain the first runnings into the now empty kettle. Start heating the kettle. Dump the sparge water from your cooler HLT into your mashtun (don't forget to close the spigot first!). Aim for 168 F final temperature (I use 180 F sparge water). Stir in, wait 5 minutes, then vorlauf and finally drain into your boil kettle.

If you want, you can modify your cooler HLT with a spigot so you can drain from it instead of having to dump (or pump out if you get into that).

I have the dual fuel smoker. Get a needle valve, it works. It takes very minor adjustments to slow the fuel. You'll need tape, and extra propane gas line as well. You will have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't blow out, but it hasn't done it on me yet. I got exactly this:

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-1631-8-Inch-Straight-Needle/dp/B008E5C7NG

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59913-Propane-Hose-Assembly/dp/B007HG7Y7M

http://www.amazon.com/44094-Slic-Tite-Thread-Premium-Length/dp/B004MYFPAK

This pipe is fine. Haters are going to hate on anything that isn't glass, when there are a great many cheaper materials that work perfectly for pipe making. I have been using brass and brass pipe screens for years, and have had no problems with it. Brass fittings are lead free, and that's the only legitimate concern. Otherwise, the pipe may get a little hot, but it has never got too hot for me to not be able to touch the pipe. I do have one recommendation, though. Get one of these off of Amazon. It's a brass bowl that will screw into that pipe and then you'll have a real bowl. You will probably need some Brass Pipe Screens for it too, but none of this is expensive, and the brass bowl comes in a set of 2, so you can have two pipes. I've had the same pipe for over a year, and it still works perfectly. And the major advantage that brass has over glass: you can drop it without it shattering.

Is there any particular reason you're using that glass? It looks like its already fractured, and may be jagged around the edges. From the looks of it, you may be better off using a brass bowlpiece, it wouldn't look too bad either. You can usually get them at headshops. That way you would just bore a hole slightly smaller then the bowl and screw it in, no adhesive required. Something like this is what im think of: https://www.amazon.com/TWO-Standard-Pipe-Bowls-BRASS/dp/B005MGU5TI
Anywho, good luck!

If this is the case, you can use a air admittance valve under the sink. https://www.amazon.ca/Oatey-39017-Sure-Vent-Admittance-Adapter/dp/B0069KCZO4/ref=asc_df_B0069KCZO4/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292930174785&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4194651304515183041&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001849&hvtargid=pla-311232934043&psc=1

​

They are well within the capability of most DIYers. Put in a Y downstream from the trap, then run pipe to put the valve as close to the top of the undersink space as you can. Not sure why these aren't used more often rather than running stacks.

You might already have air chamber shock absorbers, in which case you could recharge them: shut off the main, open all fixtures to drain the pipes, let it sit awhile, close the fixtures, turn on the main. See if that reduces the hammer, and then see how long it lasts.

Otherwise just install the screw-on hammer arresters at the washing machine and any other fixture that's causing water hammer:

https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JRGAMQ/ref=asc_df_B000JRGAMQ4949869

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RI63BW/ref=psdc_3226897011_t2_B000JRGAMQ

Also, instead of all that nonsense, you could just get the adapter that's literally made for that...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3J60O6/

and they are available on amazon prime. https://www.amazon.com/Speedfit-ASVPP1LF-8-Inch-4-Inch-Adapter/dp/B003YKF2JC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485804435&sr=8-1&keywords=ASVPP1LF

Sorry I'm late to respond, but if you want to reply to someone, you need to click the "reply" link under their comment. Then add your comment as a reply to them, it will notify them you replied, and they'll know the reply is for them.

This reply is probably a bit long, lol. But I'm bored, so I go into some detail, and give some suggestions on tools n' such you can use for various things. You don't have to use them, obviously.

===

• Yes, break down all the starches before fermenting. Yeast can't use starches, they will release some enzymes, but none that will break down starches. The enzymes that break down starches come from the grain itself, or you add them. This is why you do the iodine test after mashing, but before fermenting, it is testing for the presence of starches, if it's blue, than all the starches haven't been converted and the yeast won't turn those starches into alcohol. So you need to continuing mashing, maybe add enzymes if you haven't already.
  
  
• 2lbs of sugar should be enough for the batch.
  
  
• The barley does need to be milled. The distiller shop should be able to crush/mill it for you, or if there is a feed supply store nearby, they might be able to do it for you. But whole grains aren't going to work because the starches will be trapped inside. Grain seeds are essentially made up of 3 parts: bran, endosperm, and germ. The bran is the outer shell that protects everything but it also contains some vitamins, the endosperm is where the starches and enzymes are contained, and the germ is where the actual plant embryo is, as well as vitamins and fats are contained. Milling/crushing/grinding is what breaks that bran off, and will make the endosperm (starches and enzymes) available to be dissolved into the water. If that bran is still there, everything will be trapped inside.
  
  
• The enzymes I mentioned, you would add them before pitching (adding) the yeast, to help break down the starches in the grains. I would specifically add them at the 150F (65C) mark, that is within the safe temperatures for both of them. Glucoamylase will start to denature at 158F (70C), and alpha-amylase will start to denature at around 161F (72C), and if you didn't know, denatured enzymes (proteins) don't work anymore.
  
  ====
  
  I do my mashing in a 5gal stainless steel pot, and I do my fermenting in these 5gal buckets (foodsafe from Home Depot). I use these lids, as it has an extendable spout which is the perfect diameter for a No. 7 size drilled rubber stopper, which I stick the airlock in.
  
  For the actual mashing process. I do the following. So, not far off from what you do, except the starting temperature, since going above 161F can damage some of your enzymes and slow things down. These steps haven't failed me yet.
  
  
• Heat the water up to 158F (70C)
  
• Add grains when it's at that temp or slightly below it.
  
• Let it cool down to 150F (65C), and hold it there for an 1h to 1.5h. But it has to stay at ~150F the entire time.
  
• Pull out the grains (which are in a brew bag, mentioned below).
  
• I personally do an iodine test at this point, before moving on to cooling. To see if there are any starches left over. If there is still starch, and I haven't added enzymes already, I will add enzymes, 1/2tsp each (alpha and gluco), and I'll hold it at 150F for another 30min.
  
• I let mine cool down to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C), depending on the room temp. You can use an immersion chiller if you have one (I made mine, explanation below), or an ice bath, if you want to speed up cooling it down from 150F to 75F.
  
• Then pitch the yeast.
  
  I mix up the yeast culture as soon as I hit the 150F temp of the mash, by pouring the yeast (1tbsp) into 2cups of warm water with a pinch of sugar, a pinch of DAP (aka diammonium phosphate), and a pinch of Magnesium sulfate (aka epsom salt, I bought at walmart in a large jug). Then I just let it sit while the yeast rehydrates and starts doing it's thing. When the mash is down to around 80F, I pour that mash into a sanitized 5gal bucket, then when it hits between 75F to 70F, I pour the yeast mix into the mash in the bucket, close the lid, put in the stopper+airlock, and leave it alone for about 3 days, before I check on it.
  
  When I check on it, if it has slowed down significantly, or is stuck. I do the following:
  
  

1. I will check the temp, and warm/cool it if needed to get it back to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C).
   
2. If the temp isn't off, I will check pH, if it's between 5 and 5.5, everything is good, if not I use citric acid (pull it down) or calcium carbonate (pull it up) to fix pH. Closer to 5 is better than closer to 5.5, ideally 5.2 to 5.5 is the best. Some people will use oyster shells and add them before pitching yeast, to act as a pH buffer. It does work, since they are essentially made up of calcium carbonate. I'd recommend soaking in water+bleach (10% solution, 10mL bleach, 90mL water) for 30min then rinsing under tap water, then letting them dry out, if you go this route, to make sure any bacteria are dead. Then you can put them in the ferment bucket in their own small brew bag, under the big brew bag, or in one of those stainless steel tea strainers, so you don't need to fish them out of the grains/trub afterwards which is a pain in the ass. Ideally, by the end of the ferment, if you don't want to distill it right away (within a few days), you can let the pH drop as low as 4, to stave off any bacterial infection.
   
3. If pH is fine, it usually means there isn't enough nutrients, so I will put in 1/2tsp of DAP, and 1/2tsp of Magnesium sulfate, for 5gal that is. Might have to adjust pH after adding those.
   
   That usually accounts for all the stuck fermentation issues.
   
   ===
   
   

• For my immersion chiller. I use a 72" length of uncoated corrugated stainless steel tubing I bought from Houzz, and then I bought a faucet to garden hose adapter, and 2 of these 3/4" NPT to garden hose adapters. So it goes Sink faucet > faucet adapter > garden hose > hose to NPT adapter > CSST > hose to NPT adapter > garden hose > tub drain. There are other ways to do it, but I had the CSST already just laying around unused. You could probably just buy a piece of copper pipe, bend it into a coil, stretch rubber tubing over each end, and then stretch one end over the faucet, and let the other end hang over the sink/tub drain. I prefer the immersion chiller to the ice bath, or just waiting around.
  
  
• I also don't know if you have what's called a brew bag, but it makes handling the grains easier. You put the bag in the bucket, then fill the bucket with your water, then pour the grains into the bag/bucket. Then when you are done, and want to take the grains out, you just lift out the bag, let it drain, you can squeeze the bag, or do whats call lautering where you pour water through it (you can put the bag in a large colander if you want to lauter), and voila. A lot easier than without the bag, and having to scoop all the grains out. This is the one I have, you can see what I was describing in the photos.
  
  
• Some people like to do what is called distilling "on grain", where they will pour the entire mash, with some grains or all the grains, into the distillation boiler. But if you aren't using a jacketed boiler, you run the risk of burning the grains, which adds an acrid taste and can ruin things. I don't do this, I use an immersion heater in my boiler, so I distill "off grain", as I use the brew bag and pull the grains out before doing into the boiler.
  
  
• For controlling the mashing temperatures, I use a Sous Vide cooker that I own for cooking, it can go between 32F and 210F. Tons of them on Amazon these days, and with a bit of aluminum door screen around the openings to keep the big grains out, benefit of the sous vide is it will heat and stir for you. If it's too expensive for you now, Amazon always has deals on them for Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or for Xmas. But you can just keep adding hot water and stirring periodically as the temp drops, I've done that before too. Or you can use a hot plate, which I have also done. I've never used the stove top (electric), or a gas burner, but I imagine it's possible to do with that as well, but probably a bit more difficult. Whatever floats your boat, and works for you.
  
  ===
  
  Hope this helps!

That was my fallback plan, but I actually found, after much searching, a replacement for the proprietary supply lines on Amazon. For anyone else with this problem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EA15BJK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

This is the hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SPLBWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_1y8XBbF9F2V80

And I'd also like to add that I've had this for 3 months and no issues so far but I wouldn't mind preventing a burst from happening

They used a very similar trap as the one you linked. In the 16 years I've been here, I've only had one clog in the trap, everything else was much farther down the drain line after it enters the walls/floor. I'd love to go and replace it with a slightly larger diameter pipe, but to do that I'd need to cut up my downstairs neighbor's ceilings, and I'm just not wanting to do that.

​

While yeah, I'd be upset if the trap fell out and poured water everywhere, the old one was unglued from June '03 (when I bought, probably earlier) to Nov '18 when the system was replaced. Never had an issue with it coming undone.

​

I'll probably end up picking up some unions and calling it a day

​

Edit: Pretty sure this is the trap I've got. I'd upload a pic of my setup but can't hit image hosting from work :/

I've never seen the part you're describing all in one piece.

But you might be able to go from this to this to this, to accomplish what I think you are trying to accomplish.

No. Even if you do need to shut off the hot, the cold will not need shutting plus DO NOT DRAIN THE TANK. Shut off the supply to tank and open a few hot taps. But.... Check local codes tho I haven't see any against [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003B6JC4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479603482&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Add+an+tee&dpPl=1&dpID=41NYFZBMQoL&ref=plSrch) . Assuming it's a 3/8 compression stop, this goes onto the hot valve for the kitchen faucet then the new line for the d/w comes off the side. Also don't forget that any solenoid (electric) valve must have a [water hammer arrester] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D73MFCI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2DQC7YW7K7DW2D8P069E), in my area anyway. That's dishwasher, washing machine, fridge icemaker / filters.

You are correct. You could also mount a studor valve (air admittance valve) on it:

https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-39017-Sure-Vent-Admittance-Adapter/dp/B0069KCZO4

Check the secondary after you correct/change the primary, and see if it, too, is leaking cold air.

Ya, thinking about it a bit more I will probably skip the floor heating for the garage. More effort than it's worth. Might do a couple loops in the house though. Maybe something like https://www.amazon.com/Ft-Aluminum-Transfer-Radiant-Heating/dp/B009KT7PO6 since I have a partially finished basement that give me access to the most of the floors on the main level.

Regular old heat transfer plates should be cheaper if you're willing to build around them.

Eg
https://www.amazon.com/Ft-Aluminum-Transfer-Radiant-Heating/dp/B009KT7PO6

I bought one of these and shut my own valve off at the street. It's easy if you know where it is. Nobody will ever know...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069QU7Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_-WFTDbF7MASXY

Tubbing: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVS1YK/

Connector: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WJRG30/

Cutters: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HSAPR8/

You are correct and this is the one I have.

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-1631-8-Inch-Straight-Needle/dp/B008E5C7NG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=lasco+3%2F8+needle+valve&qid=1563645759&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Hope you're using a stainless steel flex supply line.. this if you are there is no problem bending it ,it was made for that.