Hi - nothing ruined I bet - we've all been there. There is a product known as Purple Power, as well as some other brand names depending on your location, that you can soak your model in to remove the primer. Be very careful - it's a degreaser and it's safe for basic styrene but will take a toll on your skin. ;) Soak the painted model for several hours - most if not all of the paint will be removed and you can start again. You may not need to remove all the existing primer, just enough to get a good smooth new coat on. There may be other products or methods out there, I bet you get a lot of helpful replies - you might try google as well. Good luck!! Post up when you've finished the model! :)

https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

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There may be other products or methods out there - you might try google.

Good questions. Yes there is Testors special glue for clear parts. It's basically PVA (Elmer's) glue and it has a fairly weak hold. Wood glue is a type of PVA glue - that's probably why you read that it will work. Let me list a few other options that I use.

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1. Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer - This is like a Testor's clear parts glue (a PVA) but much stronger.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Canopy-Glue-Flexible-2oz/dp/B0006O8EVM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3L2U59ZA98WJS&keywords=formula+560+canopy+glue&qid=1558440227&s=gateway&sprefix=formula+560%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3
   
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2. SuperGold + by Bob Smith Industries - This is a very strong CA glue (superglue). It's special because it's a superglue (and I think the only one too) that doesn't release fumes and won't fog up clear parts.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-139H-Super-Gold/dp/B01FWZNQ1M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=supergold+%2B+glue&qid=1558440381&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell
   
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   Hope this helps

Looks like washes and pigments. For this and a lot of the weathering I've come across, a couple simple cheap things can give a really convincing result:

• A few colors of oil paint: for example this
  
• Oil-based thinner: for example this
  
• A few colors of pastel chalk
  
  

  Washes
  

  
  Put a pea-sized drop of oil paint in a small container, add some oil-based thinner, and mix it up. You'll end up with a mixture about the consistency of milk or coffee, in whatever color you're using. (Neutral darks -- blacks/browns -- are good starting points)
  
  Now dip your brush and do a test on scrap plastic. Too thick? Add thinner to the container, re-mix, re-test. Too thin? Add paint. Once you've got it how you like it, apply it to the model. Can go heavy or light depending what you're going for.
  
  Then brush/swab the excess away, leaving behind however much you want in whatever places you want. Voila, you have washed the piece. Plus you can spot-add wherever looks good (probably don't want it too thin for this -- fuel stains, grime, oil residue, etc) then use a q-tip to blend it just right.
  
  Don't need the "system" that Vallejo/Tamiya/all the others are happy to sell you. Using basic oils gives you way more flexibility and control. And it's dirt cheap.
  
  

  Pigments
  

  
  Same idea as above: find the color(s) you like/need. Crush up a bit of the pastel, get it on the brush, dab it on the model wherever you want, however much you want. Gives a dusty/used look.

Getting a good finish on clear requires three steps:

1. Cutting - using an aggressive sandpaper (1000-2000) to level out the surface and remove orange peel.
   
2. Buffing - using successively finer grits of sandpaper/polishing pads to remove the previous scratches. Sanding grits are typically 2400, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000. Each successive grit is sanded 90 degrees to previous. The idea is to remove the scratches from the previous pass, and going across them instead of with them works better. By the time you get to 12,000 you'll have a nice, smooth reflective finish.
   
3. Polishing - this is what gives it the shine. Use a polishing compound and wax to give it a mirror finish.
   
   Products I use:
   
   

• Cutting: 3M Trizact automotive sanding pads. If my clear lays down smooth, I'll start at 3000
  
• Buffing: Sanding pads
  
• Polishing: Novus Plastic Polish - comes in 3 formulas - heavy scratch remove, fine scratch remover, and silicone wax.
  
  Here's how I do it.

Hi there, well, for 300$ here is what you can get:
First of, the compressor, it's quiet, it's reliable, I've had one for 2 years, still kicking and it's a good deal, 1/5 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR , that is the best for the money. Now, if you want an Iwata airbrush, start off with a Neo, this is gonna be your workhorse airbrush, the one you apply basecoats and major workloads with, when you do fnd it, don't pay more than 60$ for it, Iwata Neo, and finally, for detailing jobs like highights or if you wanna get more detailed on your work, you will need a finer needle airbrush, .03 to be exact, following the Iwata series, here is the Iwata Anest, Eclipse with a .03 needle, if you buy all 3 of these, you will have less than 300$ which you cna also spend on quick release adapters for both airbrushes: Quick release x 3, the compressor does come with a hose. Hope this helps, also, might wanna think about using Vallejo and Tamiya, since they are acrylic, they are a lot more forgiving than enamels, but that is my personal opinion.

I have a Paasche and love it. I don't recommend a gravity feed for using on models, you sometimes have to paint into small spaces and turn the brush in weird angles, if you happen to tilt the brush too much, well, all the paint will just dump out of the cup.

This is what I use. https://www.amazon.ca/Paasche-TS-SET-Double-Action-Airbrush/dp/B003AA6P7E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463101328&sr=8-3&keywords=paasche+ts

I would look on your local Craigslist or Kijiji for a decent used pancake or double tank compressor. If you don't run a tank you won't get a reliable air pressure and it'll make painting more difficult. Something like this would be perfect for you. http://kalispell.craigslist.org/tls/5581270587.html

Both those together would make an excellent starter kit, hell the airbrush will stay with you for your life if you clean it and treat it right.

Edit. These cars where painted with my Paasche. http://imgur.com/a/Gzufd and http://imgur.com/a/3ERvC

I made a spray box out of a plastic box/tub from home Depot ($7) and a washroom box fan ($18 or so) and see extendable metal vent tubing (maybe $10,it can be extended). I also threw in a furnace filter to pick up all the paint particles. I then cut a hole in the bottom of the box and put the fan there. It works extremely well, the suction power is pro ably 10x better than the expensive spray boxes you buy elsewhere.

I think I got the idea from Google or YouTube.

edit: if you're in the USA http://www.amazon.com/Air-King-AK150LS-Energy-Deluxe/dp/B000EWEB9K/ref=sr_1_101?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421813412&sr=1-101

That's interesting. One of the things that I tried to get more control was this device: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001U35OJI. I feel like there has to be something like it that works 100% of the time - I got it to work sometimes but other times it would fall off. The quest continues!

Oh okay, Something probably like this then? https://www.amazon.com/3M-7512PA1-Professional-Respirator-Medium/dp/B000XBFJP2

Can you find this kit: "Joker Goon Car/Gotham City Police Car"?

$50 is pretty high though. I should have bought it when it was $15 at K-Bee.

It ships from Japan, but this is an '05. Amazon has few to check out.

AMT makes a kit for the 17 Camaro SS, it's in current production, so it should be easy to find at your local hobby stores.

Revell made a kit for the 2006 Z06, but it isn't in production amymore, and the issues are somewhat hard to find, but they can be found.

Revell also made a 2005/2006 base Corvette (with a removable targa and everything!). That one is a little easier to find than the Z06.

AMT also made plenty of base C6 Corvettes as well, recycling the same coupe and convertible kits almost every year. They do not however have engines.

I do not know of anybody that makes kits or diecasts of any E90 generation 3-series. I know Welly makes a die cast E92 M3 coupe.

I believe Tamiya and Aoshima) makes a kits for the 350Z. Tamiya even makes a base Z and a 350Z Track.

Revell made a kit for the 1998-2002 WS.6 Trans Am. It hasn't been made in years, and it's starting to get harder to find.

By the way...they have the revell 69 charger on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AYQ3H4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g21_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=10CK4Z0VQVERDRQV4CDR&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop

Currently using this one from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000RB38X8/

I use these

https://www.amazon.com/AMT-Plastic-Display-Case-11/dp/B001AN7LRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500819925&sr=8-1&keywords=model+car+display+case

https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-Sports-Building-No-123-Japanese/dp/B000WN57YE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493298958&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+supra

This has detailed engine, if I recall correctly.