(Part 3) Top products from r/PrintedMinis

A friend bought me this set for my birthday: https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537582745&sr=8-1&keywords=citadel+wash

I haven't found uses for all of the different colors yet, but I have used far more of them than I expected when I opened it. For example, I painted a zombie last night - I used my Vallejo buff to lay out a basic skin tone, then used the citadel flesh wash over it (which made it into a bronzed god!), then went over that with the green wash from that set. That turned the whole thing putrid, so I went back over the tops of the shoulders/head with the buff again to bring them back up to that original flesh tone, which worked out really well!

I'm starting to appreciate that investing in good paints is well worth it. I got some little eye-droppers so that I can pull out a tiny amount of paint onto my easel before painting (so that I don't waste a bunch of it), which has been pretty effective. I really like the bottles that the Vallejo paints come in, but I really like the colors of the Citadel washes.

1. I use auto generated supports, but I use Chitubox for my slicing software
   
   
2. I think there is a google spreadsheet running around here that had good setting for the different resins. I’m on mobile so I can’t find it.
   
   Edit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app#gid=0
   
   
3. People will tell you both. I prefer to take them off before it cures because it’s more malleable and doesn’t “shoot off” when I clip off the supports. It also clears the way so that the mini itself can get into the sunlight and be cured. But I’m sure there are people out there that will tell you to remove them after curing. Either way I fine I believe.
   
   
4. It’s also better to angle your minis when printing. 45 degrees on its back, so that the front of the minis has less supports (or none). Also whenever I print flat I had more failures for some reason.
   
   
5. Have fun! I love mine!
   
   Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:
   
   Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Asking about the "best" filament for minis is kinda like asking people about the religion they prefer - people get all excited :) My own preference is AIO Robotics which has been always consistent in quality and thickness (doing four measurements on their PLA will always average out very, very close to 1.75 mm) Remember that there is cheap filament and good filament but I've yet to find filament that is cheap AND good.

I haven't used acetone like some other posters. My one "must have" finishing tool is really good sprue cutter like this one I got from Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TMZ7QA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It will allow you to snip off junk very close to the model without breaking off delicate parts like swords and spears. I then finish up with sanding and filing with jewelers' files.

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Good luck!

I think the most obvious improvement would be to decrease the layer height because the layer lines are very visible, at what layer height did you print?

For Cleanup i use a file set like this https://www.amazon.de/B20206-Feilenset-Mini-6-teilig/dp/B00AF0KT9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536922382&sr=8-3&keywords=feile

But i must say it's a solid start already, good luck with further printing and running SKT! (Im starting it too atm, it's a really cool campaign if you ask me)

things i use, that you may already have/may not need depending on your application:

I hate to just say "upgraded grub screws" - but i cant recommend enough getting some hex-headed bolts from lowes/home depot. sadly ive forgotten the exact size, (i believe them to be m6x16mm but really want someone to confirm that. you'll need 2 of them, so i picked up 4 just in case). the included grub screws in the build plate locking mechanism are just so soft, and the allen keys just go through them like mush after 5-10 good torques.

painter's tool or similar - some kind of metal/hard plastic that will be able to get the prints off the build plate. the included spatula wont last long and I generally use it to mix resins that have separated in the vat. using it to also get prints off the build plate damages the plastic and increases risk of puncturing the FEP

lots of paper towels- wiping up drips, cleaning off the bottle drips, cleaning rim of the tank, cleaning off the spatula, placing print to dry after alcohol bath.

paint brushes- both medium and small. even with ultrasonic cleaner, ive seen some people say it doesnt get every nook and cranny and need to wipe down with a soft tip brush to get all excess resin off (i dont use an ultra sonic, but rather a "clean" and "dirty" ipa tubs to try and make sure as much of it comes off before curing)

x-acto knife - sometimes the micro-shears are just too wonky/large to clip a support without damaging the print.

sandpaper- 300 or so grit, not ultra needed, but depends on what you're doing. if printing minis i cant recommend some enough in order to get a smooth bottom on the base after all the supports come off

extra paint strainers - believe it comes with some, but go pick up a 50 pack at lowes, and wont need to worry about using the last of the 5 i think they give you for free

extra, opaque tupperware/jars/containers with wide top. i use old sour cream containers. just to pour off and strain resin into (far easier than trying to get it back into the bottle). can even use some as a final "last wash" ipa bath after ultrasonic cleaner.

random extra to consider: 1 mil kapton tape to seal the LCD and prevent spills from dripping down into the unit. ( https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kapton+tape+1+mil&qid=1574726246&sr=8-3 ) some might call it superfluous, but id rather not have my fep puncture then come to find resin all over the motherboard

- just a side note if doing the ultrasonic, put water in the actual tub, and put ipa in a ziplock bag, and put your print in the ziplock bag and seal it, then put the ziplock bag in the water. Wont have any clean out the ultrasonic tub, reduce IPA required to operate. reduce smell. reduce IPA vapors.

I have found that a lot of items from flexifile are phenomenal when it comes to mini cleanup and repair. The touch-n-flow system is a fantastic glue for any pla models and i pretty much use it exclusively. It wont glue anything except the plastic because it isn't technically a glue. It melts and bonds the plastic on a chemical level. Any ankle breaks or arms or staffs or swords become easy fixes with a pair of reverse tweezers and that glue.

I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.

I'm gonna drop my resin links here and some short descriptions

First off, get some various sizes buckets or containers for cleaning. I find that these sanitation pails are great. You can also just get cheap Tupperware. I use these for cleaning vats, tools, and I always set the bottle in them when refilling.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NC1WCJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kxtqDbNDXDS96

You should also get a good respirator. Any hardware store should have one.

For curing I made an acrylic box and put this lamp on it.
You could use cheaper LED strips etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LT53312/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dBtqDb0VTGF28

Box. I use something similar with a mirror on the bottom. You could add foil or mirror film for the same effect.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014QTXPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fEtqDbZ997GN6

Funnels, any hardware store has them. I bought a large oil funnel that I put the paint filter in and the tray also fits in. And just hang it above the bottle.

A ton of IPA! Hardware stores have this in 1 gallon tins.

Pro-tip this thing... But it's completely not necessary. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FTFD3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xLtqDbMGD060V

After I paint any mini, I varnish it with gloss varnish, and then, most importantly spray the entire thing with Testor's Dulcote. It makes everything beautifully matte.

https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4

It's only a dollar less than ordering it filled with d6s. It's a running joke in my friend group.

This stuff is basically XTC 3D in a can:

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-I00500A00-12-Ounce-Triple-Aerosol/dp/B001144TJC

Usually what I do to dry my filament is put it in a food dehydrator set to 47C overnight. After that I store my filaments in a plastic bin that has lining on the brim of the lid. I throw a bunch of desiccants in there with the filaments and then I have a hydrometer in there to monitor the humidity. The humidity is so high where I live that leaving pla out for as little as a couple days will cause moisture issues.

I don't recommend using an oven because ovens usually swing pretty far on the temperature setting, and I've also never seen an oven that can be set as low as needed for pla. Here's a link to the food dehydrator I picked up. On mine the temperature setting is a little off but whatever temperature you set it to is rock solid. (i.e. I set the temp on the dial to 52C, it then reaches 47C and stays there all night long)

There are low profile coin battery holders around that will fit into some bases. I haven't done any work with it myself, but looked into it a bit for lighting X-Wing models. Copy of my very brief notes below w/ sample part numbers. There are also several hobby companies around that make appropriate pre-wired kits.

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2mm of clearance under the base

Common CR2032 coin cell battery is nominally 3.2mm tall, so that doesn't
work.

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/cr2032.pdf

CR2016 also puts out 3.0 volts, but is only 1.47mm tall. Has less
than half the capacity though, 90 mAh versus 240 mAh.

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/cr2016.pdf

20 pack on Amazon is $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Lithium-Manganese-Batteries-Packaging/dp/B00C7BXISQ/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1475503982&sr=8-3&keywords=cr2016

Battery contact on base
Clip retainer
Both wired to LED
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this stuff

Haven't had any problems with it so far.

I use a bunch of this boxes, you get 4 for $20 so $5 each, and you can store quite a bit in them

Picture for reference

I ordered a set of these just for the occasion.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001AE7RRO/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=3dprintedtabl-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001AE7RRO&linkId=0818deea100a21fd61e9bc084bf72017

I keep the medium and small minis in tackle boxes https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LF3E8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I messed up the paint job on my resin mini with a gob of sealer. I used Purple Power cleaner; soaked it for 24 hours and it didn’t dissolve the mini. Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

I got mine through Amazon (currently $256 US).

There are some additional costs to be aware of though.

1. Resin (~$40): I'm using Elegoo Grey
   
2. 99% IPA (~$3) For cleaning prints
   
3. UV Light (~$30) for curing
   
4. Gloves (~$10) It comes with some, but you'll be replacing those quickly
   
5. Ventilation (~$100) depending on where you're printing.
   
   It can add up if you're not careful. So plan for an additional $200.

No I don't think so, but poor extrusion consistency could be why my print quality goes down when I go under 0.60 layer height or slow speeds down below 20mm/s. Both of these changes would theorectically decrease extrusion pressure and cause problems with poor extrusion.

Here is the PLA I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0ECR5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One possible solution to poor extrusion is an upgrade to the extrusion gear. This is one of the upgrades I'm hoping to try in the future: https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Extruder-Driver-Makerbot-Printer/dp/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=as_at?imprToken=aQzkLClLVwaOhO32jAnr3g&slotNum=0&SubscriptionId=AKIAJSOXNA2EGTA44JQA&tag=letsprint3d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00ZZRI0DC

Another option for making extrusion more consistent and smooth is to increase temperature.