(Part 2) Top products from r/Ubiquiti

Boy, Ubiquiti sure doesn't make it easy for the average home user/consumer to get a grasp on their products and offerings. I fumbled my way into a similar situation as yourself, perhaps bits of my ramblings will be helpful for you. I started off with a trusty little ER-X, fully planning to outgrow that little device within a matter of months. That did NOT happen, as it's quite a capable router for the $49 I invested in it. It even handled load-balancing dual WAN connections without breaking a sweat. And there's a PoE passthrough for pairing the router with a wireless access point. After being so thrilled with the ER-X, I decided it was time to bring our wireless capabilities into the 21st century and ended up going with a UAP-AC-LR, which has continued to serve us well over the past ~18+ months, or so. I was getting consistent remarks on just how great the WiFi was all of a sudden after deploying that lovely little UFO shaped device. Do yourself a favor and avoid the CloudKey, unless you have a very specific use-case / need for it. There's dozens of ways to run a UniFi Controller that are both cheaper (free?) and better, IMO. If you just have the single access point (I only have the one) you could potentially even stand it up simply by using the UniFi mobile app to set it and forget it. It only needs to run when you want to make modifications, or changes to your setup, but the options are immense. You can even run the software on your desktop PC, pretty much whatever you have on hand will suffice.

In an effort to give a somewhat complete run-down of your options, there's another line of products, where many folks prefer to go with a pure UniFi setup. The USG is on par with the ER-X, but it's twice the cost with less power and less features. The only added bonus is that you get to manage it from the same menu/interface as your access point(s), so your metrics and charts will fill out more and look a bit prettier, but how often do you really sit around and look at how much data your network devices are pulling? I still prefer the EdgeMAX dashboard over the UniFi Controller interface, especially considering the fact that I'm not wholly convinced the values are particularly accurate, so it may be of little value if that's something you actually need for your use-case, rather than just a pretty toy to view. Hope some of this helps, if you have further questions, please ask away! Below I'll list the absolute bare-bones, budget-conscious way to get into an incredibly stable home network setup, from my experiences. I only recently upgraded my Edgerouter-X with an Edgerouter 12 from the Early Release store, and today is the day my upgraded fiber package gets flipped on. Goodbye 100Mbps, hello Gbps! Sadly, not symmetrical... but that's for another time and place. Best of luck with your decision(s). I swear by my little "hybrid" network with the Edgerouter at the core and the UniFi access point (i've since added a mish-mash of switches, but unless you have a large need for ethernet connected devices, the ER-X should be plenty to get you going. This TP-Link was the absolute cheapest "managed" (smart) switch I could find in my research. I'm not quite sold on the UniFi switches, but I often wish I owned an Edgeswitch Lite, but someday I'll learn more than just the basics of the used Cisco SG300-20 i picked up to be the "core" switch of my network. Both the ER-X and ER12 have the added bonus of built in switching chips, so you get the best of both worlds which gives you quite a bit of flexibility in a home/lab environment.

TL;DR -- Edgerouter-X paired with UAP-AC-Lite with the UniFi Controller software running on pretty much whatever you have on hand (RPi, Google Cloud Compute, AWS, any old PC, etc.) and you will have a rock-solid network core with dreamy WiFi that'll get you compliments for weeks, if not months from your significant other and/or housemate(s).

Alright, here we go:

PLANNING

You mainly need to figure out how many cables you need and where you'll run them to. Obviously you'll need one to each location of an AP or camera, so you need to figure out how many you'll run to jacks for connecting Ethernet devices. The bare minimum is one to each TV location and desk location, in this case you'll connect a switch to the jack if you need to connect more than one device. The ideal number is five to your main entertainment center, and two to every other TV location and desk location. This hopefully eliminates the need for secondary switches. In addition, you should run one Coaxial cable to each TV location including your main entertainment center. Add up all the Ethernet cables you'll be running, and keep this number in mind.

As for the network hub location, the best place for it is the basement, preferably an unfinished part of it near the entry point of your internet service. If you don't have a basement, use a utility room. Just make sure it has some sort of ventilation, you don't want stuff getting too hot.

EQUIPMENT

For the actual Ethernet cable, you'll want to get a 1000 foot bulk spool. Get pure copper rather than copper clad aluminum (CCA) and solid conductors rather than stranded. It needs to be riser rated (pretty much any will be) but plenum rating is pointless unless you'll be running it through air ducts. Your big choice here is the category rating: Cat5e or Cat6. Cat5e is good for gigabit, Cat6 will future-proof you for 10 gigabit. Cat6 is more expensive, thicker, and trickier to terminate as the spec only allows a quarter inch of untwisting rather than Cat5e's half an inch.

Keeping in mind the number of wires you plan on running, you'll need a punch-down patch panel with at least that many ports that matches the category rating of your cable. You'll also need punch-down keystone jacks, these also need to match the category rating of your cable. You won't need them for cables going to cameras or APs, you'll just need one for each other cable. For each location where you'll be installing jacks, you'll need a single gang old work low voltage bracket (or a surface-mount box), and a keystone wallplate. Six ports for the main entertainment center, three for each other TV location, two for each desk location. You'll also want a keystone coaxial coupler for each TV location including the main entertainment center.

You have another big choice to make for the main switch, a managed PoE switch or a dumb unmanaged switch. The managed PoE switch will simplify things a lot as it'll power your cameras and APs, while with an unmanaged switch you'll need to use PoE injectors. A managed PoE switch will, predictably, be much more expensive. Either way, you'll ideally want one with at least as many ports as the total number of Ethernet cables you'll planning to install, plus one for the router. You can get one with fewer ports, but then you won't be able to connect all your cables to it at once, you'll need to just connect the ones you're currently using. If you'll be going with a managed PoE switch, get one of these UniFi switches: 8-port with 4 PoE, 8-port with all PoE, 16-port, 24-port, or 48-port. If you'll be getting an unmanaged switch, any is fine. Just make sure it's gigabit. I used this one in my previous house, for example.

For the router, you'll want the UniFi Security Gateway.

You've got another big choice to make for the APs: Lite or Pro. The main difference is that the Lite has two 5 GHz streams, while the Pro has three. Only high-end devices like Macbook Pros have 3-stream Wi-Fi hardware, so if you don't have any devices with this, the Pro won't give you any benefit. Also, since the Lite is cheaper you can get more of them for the money, as more APs rather than better ones is the best thing you can do to improve your Wi-Fi. Both of these are available in single-packs and 5-packs, the single packs include PoE injectors but the 5-packs don't. If you're getting a PoE switch, consider getting a 5-pack of Lites.

You'll need something to run the UniFi controller. This is the software that you use to manage all the UniFi gear in one place. The easiest thing to do is install it on an Ethernet-connected PC and just run it when you need to make changes or update firmware. If you want a dedicated device for running it all the time, you can use a Raspberry Pi or Cloud Key. The Cloud Key is PoE-powered, so it's particularly convenient if you have a PoE switch.

You'll also need a few RJ45 plugs for the AP and camera cables, a crimping tool for them, a 110 impact punch down tool for doing your jack and patch panel terminations, and something to strip the cable jacket. Normally this will be built into the crimper.

Lastly, you'll need a lot of pre-made Ethernet patch cables to connect everything in your network hub. Get ones that are as short as possible, 1-3 feet. You'll need one to connect each cable you've installed from the patch panel to the switch, one for connecting the switch to the router, and another for connecting the router to the modem/ONT (this one may need to be longer). If you'll be using any PoE injectors, you'll need an additional cable for each one. You could make all these yourself, but this is very tedious and time-consuming, and hard to get right. The wires need to be in the right order and all 8 need to be connected for gigabit to work. Lastly, you'll need one for each actual Ethernet device you currently have, these should be 6 feet or longer if necessary.

INSTALLATION AND SETUP

The first thing to do is run all the cables. Camera and AP lines go to the device's location and get an RJ45 plug, all the others go to a keystone jack box/bracket/faceplate. Whenever possible, leave a foot of slack at both ends in case you need to re-do terminations. I like to terminate each cable after I run it, as it makes things easier to keep track of. For all the jacks, note the port number of the cable at the patch panel, and write that same number on the faceplate next to the jack. When you do the terminations, make sure to untwist the wire as little as possible, particularly if you're using Cat6.

For the APs, install the ceiling mount bracket using the included hardware, connect the cable to the AP, and then just put the AP on the bracket and twist it to lock it in place.

At the network hub, first hook up any PoE injectors you'll be using. Connect the patch panel port for the AP/camera cable to the injector's PoE port, and connect the injector's LAN port to the switch. Plug the injector into an outlet. Now connect the rest of the patch panel's ports to the switch, or if you have a smaller switch just connect the ones you're currently using. Connect the USG's LAN port to the switch, and its WAN port to your modem/ONT. Make sure your APs are getting power, their ring light will be white if they are.

Now, open the UniFi Controller (wherever you have it set up) and go to the Devices page. Adopt everything, and update everything's firmware. Go through it and set up everything the way you like. All the UniFi devices will light up blue once adopted and configured.

>I recently moved to a new home and now have gigE internet service. Unfortunately, my old router and WAP can't handle the speed (Wireless-N Airport Extreme). To fix this, I about a TP-Link Archer C7, and I'm still not seeing the speeds that I want, but I'm still not happy with my performance.

Awesome. You made my shitlist of people I'm jealous of. lol Except that extreme router. lol


>When I connect the modem directly to my computer, I'm seeing 980 Mbps.


Seems about right.

>When the Aiport Extreme

Gonna stop you right there. Throw that thing away and bury it at a crossroads at midnight.

>and separate gigabit switch are involved, I'm seeing about 250 Mbps,

Exactly.

>and with the Archer C7 and gigabit switch, I'm seeing about 780 Mbps down.

rubs eyes How is that possible?


>So, I'm looking to take the Archer C7 back

Good!

>in favor of a USG and Unifi WAP. On average, what speeds should I expect from a USG?

I know I'm gatekeeping lol but it's A.P. The wireless is implied. This is where the questions start however.

1. What sort of modem do you have?
   
2. Does your ISP support direct fiber hand-off?
   
3. What sort of budget are you playing with?
   
   >I need 1300 square feet of WiFi coverage.
   
   You need unifi mesh to make things less labor intense. That or two unifi AC pros for solid coverage. You can get away with one (placed in the center most part of your home) if you absolutely had to do without.
   
   
   You'll also need the following:
   
   
4. 10Gtek for Ubiquiti SFP+ Direct Attach Copper Cable x 2 (you can return the second one later
   
5. Unifi Key
   
6. Ubiquiti SFP Module
   
   
   
   
   The concept is. You either buy a Ubiquiti Edge Router 4 / a Unifi Security Gateway with an SFP WAN. and have the ISP give you a direct fiber hand off and use one of the copper GTEK SFP patch cables to patch you over to a unifi / ubiquiti switch (please make sure this is either POE / not). This is a cost consideration. Hook your AP to the boona end of the switch and presto blamo you have just shy of a 1 gig internet access internally.
   
   
   Good luck! Comment if you have any questions.

A hardware switch bridges ports to allow them to be on the same LAN. A router handles different LANs. VLANs are something both can handle if they both support them. It is just adding a VLAN tag marking the Ethernet frame as being in a VLAN.

It looks like I was mistaken in that the ERPoE is the ERPoE-5, which does have a switch chip:

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/219652227--EdgeMAX-Which-EdgeRouter-Should-I-Use-

Ubiquiti do not appear to have any edgerouter models that have 8 ports and hardware switches, so you will want to have a dedicated switch if you need 8 ports. It sounds like your existing equipment could be used for that.

Ubquiti's PoE is passive 24VDC while the 802.3af standard is non- passive 48VDC. You should find out which voltage your equipment needs. If it is specifies 802.3af, you might be better off with a switch or some PoE injectors designed for the standard. The standard has a method for confirming that the device on the other end supports PoE before it supplies significant power. Passive PoE does not do that. Accidentally plugging the wrong equipment into it risks damaging it.

If it expects passive 24VDC, then in addition to your existing switch, you would want either the ERPoE-5 or a ER-X with a couple of power injectors. If the device uses 6W or less, you can use one injector to power both the ER-X and it. If your equipment expects the 802.3af standard, then you likely want an ER-X with a couple of these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

Note that having a managed switch (or an edgerouter with an integrated switch) would let you turn on/off PoE per port, although it will be passive PoE on Ubiquiti's hardware unless the standard is specified. You also get the ability to setup a ping watchdog, which is great for reliability because it can power cycle unresponsive equipment. It is very bad if you forget to disable the watchdog before updating the firmware if said equipment.

For people looking for sim free and unlocked options I can recommend this Netgear modem
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5ASNTE

I have used it along with the $10 Tmobile plan at a few places around here and it works great. If you can get decent LTE signal from Tmobile you can get some remarkable speeds https://imgur.com/a/JlpeHh7

Yes that’d work fine. I believe there is an issue now with the UDM Pro not being able to autonegotiate a 1Gb connection so at the moment you’ll need to specifically change that port to 1GB but it should be something a future firmware will fix.

I am using this SFP DAC cable from my NAS to the USW24 Pro and can confirm it works great as well, and is available in many different lengths:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHS3NCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MfEXDbT7ZSHZE

Power over ethernet. I've got an edgerouter poe-5. Works super great, was a blast to tinker with and tune. But over time I ended up getting a poe splitter to power my cable modem. A poe powered switch. One of ubiquity's long range antennas (powered by the router of course) to share internet and movie library with my parents a few blocks over. And a camera. And from ALL of those, just one wall wart for the router itself. The UPS likes it as well.

Now mind you, I never set out to become a POE addict. I just wanted a nice, powerful router but didn't feel like building a pfsense box for it. I ended up getting the powerful router but it had features for me to grow into that I didn't even know I needed when I bought it.

'That pretty much sums up my ubiquiti experience.

But I'm still kinda pissed that their management software is split between cloud keys for unifi stuff and UNMS for edge stuff.

I used a serial cable:

This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/

And I also have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GL3MOY/ but I recommend the other one as simpler since it just plugs into USB and don't need to worry about DB-9 serial ports.

I highly recommend having a serial console cable. Can be very useful if you really mess things up. Not like that has ever happened to me ;)

Take one of these and connect it to one of these and power the fan off of the PoE ports. Also, the fan I linked is a blower fan and would match nicely up against the side of the vent holes.

Looking pretty darn good if it has basic diagnostics like the ones I don't see with these (Just "?" for temperature, etc...) when I hover over: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Compatible-SFP-GE-T-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B00U77IJ2M

I'm using this to go from my USG-PRO-4 to a US-24-250W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHF7JSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eQjZCb6VNWZ8R
They are both plain SFP ports but this cable works great. Didn't have to configure anything!

• Definitely setup a separate VLAN and SSID for guests.
  
• If you're getting PoE cameras, make sure the cameras and Ubuiqiti switch you get are 802.3af complaint. I believe some Ubiquiti products are 24v passive PoE, which is basically "always on" and will fry devices that are not compatible. I opted for the Netgear switch, but only because it was on sale.
  
• Also, I would highly recommend putting all your IP cameras in a DENY/DENY zone. I have Amcrest cameras and they're constantly trying to dial out to some AWS IPs, so they're in a DENY/DENY zone and drops all outgoing traffic.
  
  name WAN_OUT {
  default-action accept
  description "Out to WAN"
  enable-default-log
  rule 10 {
  action drop
  description "Block Amcrest Camera"
  log enable
  protocol all
  source {
  address 10.10.2.50-10.10.2.59
  }
  }
  }
  
• To access the cameras behind the firewall, I have the ERL running DDNS and an OpenVPN server. As long as I'm VPNed in, I'm good.
  
• No experience with it, but Ubiquiti sells a NVR.

> This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/

LOL - nice yeah me neither... - honestly I swear that's the one I bought the last time around but I'm pulling my place apart trying to find it :/ atm

e: Yeah I did! february 28th of this year - i'm gonna go crazy trying to find it haha

I've been trying to figure this out off and on for the past week. Wish I posted here sooner. It helps when you ask someone who understands this stuff. Thanks for your help.

So now that I am getting a grasp on this, I figured there might be an adapter for this sort of thing. Do I understand correctly that the INS-3AF-I-G solve my problems and let me use PoE between these two devices?

As a sidenote, you're right about the PoE out on the standard ERX. It needs PoE in... its PoE passthrough. I'll have to get the other model.

Thanks Ben, so UF-MM-1G would work in my case? I guess I would need 2x2packs to accomplish this. What about cabling? They would be 1m or less runs. What about: https://www.amazon.com/Meter-Multimode-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B004Z9301I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511893843&sr=8-3&keywords=LC+MM+cable

Upgrading to the US-8-150W is the best option if you're going to start adding more cameras. In the meantime you could pick up one of these to convert the PoE to passive.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-INS-3AF-I-G-Indoor-Gigabit-Adapter/dp/B01N9MJL91/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501622162&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+instant+802.3af

Likely your ISP restricts you to one DHCP IP address, if you successfully connect a unifi straight into a modem you will pull public IP addresses for all your connected devices, from my work with Unifi AP's you need to place them after a router. Your setup needs to go modem>router>unifi

Without a router there is not NAT, also there is no firewall to secure the network either. I would couple it with a ER-X, cheap and powerful UBNT router. Use the built in setup wizard and you're done.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

What type of fan did you use? Will a Noctua 40mmX10mm fit your model?

Should I get a 5v or 12v version?

You can get the surge protectors with the plugs on the back. And if that doesn't fit, grab some 1 ft extension cords.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00077INZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Since I plug into a UPS anyway, I bought this power strip and label what each switch does. I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFZ98YO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://store.ui.com/products/sfp-modules

For home I just use the Multi-mode MM ( UF-MM-1G ) since its cheaper for regular SFP (not the +) ports. Then for cables on something like Amazon get some OM1 Multi-mode Duplex Fiber Optic Cable (62.5/125) - LC to LC

Something like here. Select the length you require:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z9301I/

This is the pair that I use, and they work great:
http://amzn.to/2qzR4G1
http://amzn.to/2rzLWAh

I did have some problems with POE with the AP, but after using the POE injector I haven't had a single problem. I think the uptime on my ERX is like 5 months now.

I'm using a DAC cable like this, and neither end is what I would call hot.

Thanks for the gold!

What our dear friendu/psychosquirrel85 is asking:
The usg needs to be powered right? From the USG data sheet it says
> Power Supply 12VDC, 1A Power Adapter (Included)
Power Input: 9 to 24VDC, Supported Voltage Range

So, if OP can find and adapter that can convert POE to a standard 12V DC that can plug into the back of the USG, should work theoretically

u/Solkre linked this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JCKHIGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Should wotk I think

If you can shell 15$ more, you can get this switch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4DS5KU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

very similar to the one you wanted, but with Vlan support + other goodies.

I see. I didn't see anything in the manual to indicate what spec they use. I'd wager it's not 24V passive but rather the standard PoE (802.3af)

If the Amcrest software has the ability to import RTSP streams then just plug the cameras into a network switch and forget plugging them directly into the NVR. Use the supplied PoE injectors.

If you really want to plug the cameras into the NVR. You can convert 24V passive PoE to 802.3af with this...

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-INS-3AF-I-G-Indoor-Gigabit-Adapter/dp/B01N9MJL91

You don't need a PoE switch -- most of Ubiquiti's APs come with an injector, and if the one you end up with doesn't for some reason, gigabit injectors are readily available (and don't need to be UBNT branded).

​

The UAP-AC-PRO or UAP-nanoHD are probably the two you'll want to consider, especially if you plan on getting 3x3 wireless clients down the road (if you don't have any already). :)

I use these for my splitters depending on the device:

• UCTRONICS PoE Splitter Gigabit 5V... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNKX14C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
  
• ANVISION Active Gigabit PoE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCKHIGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

As I've mentioned in other threads, I've had good luck with these TP-Link injectors and the AC-Pro.

If the US-8-150W is too much though, have a look at the US-8-60W. You only get four PoE ports, but it should be a whole lot cheaper.

If ease of use is your thing then get the USG, 8 port UniFi switch, and an AP-AC-LR, The AP-AC-LR's have both 2.4/5Ghz bands.

You can get two AP-AC-LR's and UPLINK the second from the first one if you are unable to run Ethernet.

No need to add a router off the switch as it will segregate the networks. I.E. Create two networks. And it's rather pointless.

Just buy a second access point.

What sq ft are you trying to cover? 1 AP-AC-LR can relatively cover a 1500 sqft 1 story wood/plaster home.

USG: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485235835&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+usg

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI

AP-AC-LR: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485235882&sr=1-1&keywords=AP+AC+LR

Are the original fans half the width? they might only be 10mm deep fans which would be 4x10


Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_1/134-3486845-7333707?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009NQLT0M&pd_rd_r=4f650a11-65f7-11e9-a637-6b060766031a&pd_rd_w=dKWyl&pd_rd_wg=nBDLD&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=HDY8R03XSW8QC0MZSGHE&psc=1&refRID=HDY8R03XSW8QC0MZSGHE

I've been using these super-cheap 10Gtek ones. I have four of these RJ45s and two of these 1310nm ones I use with a spare bit of FiOS cabling.

I can't believe they're this cheap, but they work flawlessly.

I've got a pair of these spanning a parking lot without any issues whatsoever.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NBE-5AC-16-High-Performance-airMAX-NanoBeam/dp/B019PDI6OY/ref=pd_sbs_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019PDI6OY&pd_rd_r=DHJ3AT2KFXSJEH060GCG&pd_rd_w=XLFFl&pd_rd_wg=REvgN&psc=1&refRID=DHJ3AT2KFXSJEH060GCG

I have them mounted on the roof of the 1st floor. There is a little bit of tree cover between them. They've been rock solid and report >400mbps consistently. I've never had a single complaint from the clients on the remote end.

I have one of these and it works fine. Just select the Ubiquiti option and then whatever length. I am using it between an 8 port POE and my 16-XG. You have to select 1Gb on each end, same as with optical SFPs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JCKHIGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this to power my Surfboard Modem.


USG 3 power requirement says Power Supply 12VDC, 1A Power Adapter (Included) So this should power it fine (set it on 12V obviously).

10G SFP+ DAC Cable - 10GBASE-CU Passive Direct Attach Copper Twinax SFP Cable for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU1M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, Open Switch Devices, 1m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHS3NCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kA5wDb9AKVB5X

Amazon has them for $98.41 if you have a Prime account

I've used
10Gtek Cisco Compatible GLC-T/ SFP-GE-T Gigabit RJ45 Copper SFP Transceiver Module, 1000Base-T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U77IJ2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JAVDyb0G4F8VX

Maybe im not understanding something here but..
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-2-5-Inch-ST5000LM000/dp/B01M0AADIX

5tb 2.5" drive.

On the Ubiquiti forum one of the employees, "TomS" said he uses this drive:

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST5000LM000/dp/B01M0AADIX/

Do you know what band they are connecting to? If it 2 or 4 (not 13 only) you should check this out.


NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem - Instant Broadband Connection | Works with AT&T and Alternate Carriers (LB1120) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eP1uDbDRDK329

I would suggest a pair of the Nanobeam ACs, would be much faster than Loco Ms

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NBE-5AC-16-High-Performance-airMAX-NanoBeam/dp/B019PDI6OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504136312&sr=8-1&keywords=nanobeam+ac

Also, this is what the Cloud Key does. If you buy a Cloud Key, this is something you can plug into the network that already has the controller software present. You can just use it as the controller for all Ubiquiti products.

POE for SmartThings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK splitter
plus
https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Barrel-Micro-USB-Connector-Adapter/dp/B019CXCHNS for DC jack to micro USB

Personally I use a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sxin_1_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDUw-ac_d_pm&keywords=Tplink+poe&pd_rd_i=B003CFATQK&pd_rd_r=f6e89ffd-cc81-4d01-984a-b4bfe184b0fb&pd_rd_w=6FIm3&pd_rd_wg=Bubxo&pf_rd_p=7ffdbddd-e073-4cb0-834c-3e54bd44941a&pf_rd_r=0R42F6S8G05TJHX7FRER&psc=1&qid=1567022590&s=gateway

They're voltage adjustable between 12, 9, and 5v

I did exactly that with one of these TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK

I noticed in this guide that it says the AP required UniFi controller 4.7 or higher. Is the guide just outdated? This is the AP I'm looking at.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z9301I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_x6BvCbQ75H031
See how that jacket sticks out, it’s not very ‘bendy’

Not OP, but I am using this on a USG as a wan2 failover.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5ASNTE/?coliid=I2TBGK8SOA4PYO&colid=2DDLLAA5DHXGH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFZ98YO/

Ah, in that case I'd say just go with a regular Netgear switch or something - aside from the controller integration on the Unifi line, their switches don't really bring much to the table.

I used 3 of these. Two in a 48-500w and one in a 24-250w.

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Compatible-SFP-GE-T-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B00U77IJ2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473344324&sr=8-2&keywords=10gtek+sfp

The largest 2.5" magnetic hard drive is the Seagate 5TB (ST5000LM000) if your looking for raw space.


https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST5000LM000/dp/B01M0AADIX

No problem, I'm glad that it helped. These are the fans I got by the way: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have a UDM-pro that will be connected to a US-16-150W via this DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHF7JSG/

BUT per ubiquiti neither auto-negotiation works nor does it respect manually setting the link speed on the UDM end:

https://community.ui.com/questions/DAC-not-recognized-on-UDM-Pro/7e9d495e-f7a5-4f92-941d-6c22763a03b7#answer/ba29de99-4b4e-4c70-91e1-b24ad9dabc3c

>Link speed selection doesn't work on UDM Pro yet and auto mode sets 10G for DAC. That's why it doesn't work with the switch which has 1G enforced

Get one of these, no adapters needed rj-45 to USB on the cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Asunflower%C2%AE-Cisco-Console-Cable-Windows/dp/B00RHDXDWA

I looked at this one too. It seems like it has more goodies but no PoE.

Is there a switch that has all those goodies plus PoE?

I use this ADJ switched pdu which works well (and I have labeled the switches).

I also have the Pyle switched PDU, but took it out because is is not well constructed. Specifically the rack mount ears (and faceplate) are plastic, with a strange hollow construction. This means as you tighten the rack screws to hold the weight, the ears crush down and crack. It’s bizarre, the body is metal, but the ears are hollow plastic. No idea what genius came up with this, but it doesn’t work.

You might be able to make it work by putting washers in the hollow, but by the time I figured this out, the ears were toast.

I also have one of These and one of These , both Cyberpower, which work well.

This is my Ubiquiti Network Rack , powered by a Cyberpower UPS.