Reddit reviews TP-Link PoE Splitter 802.3af Compliant Gigabit Port 5/9/12V DC Power Output Up to 100 meters325 feet TL-PoE10R, Black

802.3af/at requires a handshake to deliver power, you'd need something like this to actually get useful power out.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK

A simple shut/no shut on the switchport would enable/disable power.

UPDATE: The DM9601 USB hub is junk, the ethernet driver causes kernel panics and it appears to only be USB 1.1


TP-LINK TL-POE10R

Ethernet USB Hub

LED's and resistors from some kit I bought for an arduino

That device does seem to be available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQW4

The device doesn't necessarily have to be PoE capable. You could always run a PoE splitter (if it's active PoE) with an ethernet 4G modem/router

Or you can just get a PoE router and a supported 4G dongle like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6FJM8I

While you could, it's non-standard and could destroy things that are plugged into it.

It's better to get a POE adapter like this one and use it instead.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003CFATQK

That's cheaper at $15 and offers selectable output of 5/9/12 volts, perfect for a fan. I used it with it's splitter counterpart to power a switch in a drop ceiling and it works great - I can't comment how well it works with a PoE switch, but it claims it is 802.3af compliant.

I'll just leave this right here...

Power over ethernet is probably the cheaper, simpler and more reliable way to power the HDHR. So the cable run would go Ethernet switch > PoE injector > Cat 6 cable > PoE splitter > HDHR. The cost for both the injector and splitter should be less than $50.

Here's an example of a splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK

If you want to use your CAT5 how about a "real" PoE splitter?

You just need to replace the switch in your central location with an PoE switch or use PoE injectors.

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ce5JAbHA2T34C

Adjustable voltage too so you can use them for multiple devices. I use them to power a 5 port switch too.

Here ya go: TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TGwQCbFW1QNSE

If the show has a barrel plug that is 5v, 9v, or 12v this tplink adaper is great. I have been using them for a while with great results. www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK

No link, but you can use a splitter for incompatible devices.

Edit: though why not link to that? Ie. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK .

Might be easier use PoE (Power over Ethernet). Even possibly convert a non PoE printer to one with a PoE splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sr_1_3

Like /u/heeero said. I've used POE switches like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BSR4PU/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2/

That sends power over the ethernet (POE) to your camera. Your camera needs to have POE on board, or you can use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

That "splits" the ethernet from power, and you can use that to connect a non-POE camera to a POE switch. Very nice, small (like pack of cigarettes).

There's also this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZA0FU0/

That's non-standard POE, uses 20v instead of 40v. Can't use it with POE cameras or switches, basically a standalone thing. Very nice if you only have one non POE camera you want to hook up.

POE is really nice. The reliability of hardwire, the convenience of a single ethernet cord.

I set up something similar in my sister's house a few years back. As far as I know, it's still going strong. Injector at one end, a splitter at the other plugged into a switch (just make sure the power ratings are within specs).

I don't think the GS108T that /u/adamgerken mentioned existed at the time (or was too expensive).

I believe this is the splitter we used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

It supports 12V @ 1A, so should work with most 5 and 8 port switches these days.

Side note: I also use an 802.3at (PoE+) splitter to power my ONT, because I needed more than the 12v/1A the splitter above could supply. For this, I used a "PLANET NETWORKS POE-162S IEEE 802.3at Gigabit High Power over Ethernet Splitter" I picked up off of eBay.

home/proto you can chuck it on the plastic (aluminium will short it out) but for deployment definitely screw it down. if the box risers don't line up, you can mount pi to perspex first then screw or glue that to the box. wood is ok for proto but beware the fire risk..

a lot more drilling and screwing than the kits but that's half the fun ;p (and final product can be almost military grade with enough care)

these are also good'n'cheap poe if space not an issue

There is a box at the other end that splits it out into a regular power connector, pretty handy!

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526833321&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+poe+splitter

It lets you select the voltage

I did exactly that with one of these TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK

I recently dealt with Unifi G3 cameras and a 802.3af-only switch. My solution was to buy a load of passive POE injectors and these TP-Link POE splitters, saved 50% of the cost of buying Ubiquiti Instant-POE adapters.

You could use something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-POE10R-Gigabit-Splitter-compliant/dp/B003CFATQK

Just hack a micro USB connector onto the power output and you can power your Pi safely from any 802.3af switch.

While that is mostly true, POE splitters do exist (and are relatively cheap). Just remember that POE is designed to power relatively small devices that don't draw very much power.

Id go with something like this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK

if your that worried

has ce and fcc markings so it should be pretty safe

Could I use a deice like this to power a small POE switch?

​

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540385583&sr=1-4&keywords=hp+intellijack

POE for SmartThings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK splitter
plus
https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Barrel-Micro-USB-Connector-Adapter/dp/B019CXCHNS for DC jack to micro USB

Ethernet cables use thin wires which cause significant voltage drops over typical distances. For this reason, the designers of 802.3af Power over Ethernet chose 48V: higher input voltage results in more power getting to the device. Ubiquiti, Mikrotik, and others have their own nonstandard POE schemes but have generally agreed to send 15-24V – higher for longer runs, lower for very short runs. (Well, except for the Ubiquiti devices that require 48V because 24V just can't deliver the power required…)

Rather than hacking something together yourself at 5V, I would suggest this TP-Link kit. It includes a standard 802.3af injector and an 802.3af splitter, which can output 5V, 9V, or 12V onto a common DC barrel connector. You'll get gigabit Ethernet through it, it'll work over long distances (due to the higher transmission voltage), and it's standard POE.

I think this is a great deal at $20.

You can get adapters that take the power from POE and use it on non-POE devices, such as this.

Personally I use a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Splitter-TL-PoE10R/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=sxin_1_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDUw-ac_d_pm&keywords=Tplink+poe&pd_rd_i=B003CFATQK&pd_rd_r=f6e89ffd-cc81-4d01-984a-b4bfe184b0fb&pd_rd_w=6FIm3&pd_rd_wg=Bubxo&pf_rd_p=7ffdbddd-e073-4cb0-834c-3e54bd44941a&pf_rd_r=0R42F6S8G05TJHX7FRER&psc=1&qid=1567022590&s=gateway

They're voltage adjustable between 12, 9, and 5v

I wish I could find this in a 48v to 5v version (for standard POE to RPi). I've been looking but haven't found one yet. Right now I'm using this. Holy smokes, the price on these splitters dropped by almost half -- I'm betting because of RPi users buying them. Ok, nevermind, I guess I'll just stick with the TP-Link splitters since the price dropped so much.

If you use these splitters though, the only way I've found to get them to work is to take the barrel connector cable they come with and cut it in half and join it (splice the wires together, solder and cover with a shrink tubing -- put the tubes on the wires before connecting the wires, doh!) with a snipped micro-usb cable that connects to the Pi power. Keep the cable length down to about 8-12 inches.

That looks like it could be a viable solution. I will have a PoE switch, so I could get by with only the splitter. My biggest question now is whether the splitter will fit through the hole required to install the Multisensor. I plan to run the wires when building, but may not install all the sensors straight away.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_3oeFybBS95X7F?th=1