(Part 3) Top products from r/diysound

Wow thanks for such a thorough response!!!

1. yeah I figured as much, I'm thinking i'll start with Corded Hitachi , or Corded Ryobi and then if it ever breaks or if I need a cordless I'll upgrade down the line.
   
2. True, Likely worth the upgrade. Do you think I should focus on Titanium over Black Oxide? or is a reputable brand the main concern?
   
3. Thanks for the insight!
   
4. Solder , Gotcha Yeah i'll try to see if I can find anything like this locally (smaller quantity preferably)
   
5. Stahl Soldering Gun , I'm thinking this one which was linked elsewhere in this thread.
   
   6/9/10 - I think they were written into the manual as different ways in which to attach the crossover board to the bottom of the box. how do you normally attach it to the bottom of the box?
   
   I'm considering Crossover Board , just to help with organization, however i'd still need to attach it to the bottom of the box.
   
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   I just realized I forgot speaker wire for the internals, does it matter a lot which gauge? any general guidance.
   
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   I would really like to complete the outside of the boxes , as i may end up giving them away as a gift eventually. wondering if i'll need a Sander , if i plan on doing vinyl or some sort of wrap? I'm not against painting, just against spray painting.
   
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   Also forgot Snips

If you have the space for it a 5.1/7.1 home theater receiver will actually provided the easiest, cheapest, and best subwoofer integration since it's guaranteed to implement a proper crossover that high-passes the C-Notes (improving their power handling and clarity about the xover point) and low-passes the subwoofer. Accessories4Less is reliable and has great refurb deals. They'll also put out more clean power than your typical compact Class D amp.

Of course, there's not always space for something like that.

Compact amps with subwoofer out are annoyingly hard to find. The SMSL AD18 and Q5Pro have subwoofer output, but are a bit pricy. They don't get super super loud, but should be plenty loud enough for practice or as monitors I guess! Keep in mind that their sub outs aren't high-passed so the C-Notes will still play full-range.

Alternately you could choose any old amp, and simply control the volume upstream from the amp. Then you won't need a subwoofer out on the amp.

(RCA splitter) --> (inline volume control) --> (piano)

The amp would go into one set of RCA outputs and the sub into another.

You could of course skip the inline volume control if you can simply do it on the piano!

> Main goal is to get distortion free power that won't starve the speakers, so I'm thinking it should probably put out 40 watts per channel at a minimum? I could be wrong there, parts express has the cnotes rated at 60 watts RMS.

If you're going with a class D amps in the $100 range, look for amps rated at around 100W per channel -- typically based on the TDA7498E like the SMSL SA98 and Topping PA3. That "100W" rating is at 10% distortion. However, they'll do 50W at nice low distortion levels, giving the C-Notes about as much clean power as they can take.

However, if you're just using these for practice from a distance of several feet you don't need to go that big. A "50W" class D amp will give you around 25W of actual clean power, which is pretty damn loud at close range and is only ~3dB less than a 50W amp and 6dB less than a 100W monster.

I google the system and found a description on Crutchfield that lists this:

> One black 20' system input cable (has a 15-pin female connector on one end and tinned wire/single male RCA jack on the other end)

Seems like something like this would work. Cut one end off of an old RCA and solder the tip wire of the RCA to pin 14 and the ring/ground wire to pin 15. Ooor, try to find an original wire.

Personally, I'd probably want to take a panel off the sub and check out the innards first just to trace where the wires go and to be sure Im not doing something wrong.

Those speakers will work ok with one amp like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA3-150-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001P2R1RW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495133795&sr=8-5&keywords=audio+amplifier or with one like this : https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-Digital-Audio-Power-Amplifier/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495133795&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+amplifier , all depends on your budget.

I think you should just split your line-level signal coming from the computer and send one to the lepai, and one to the powered sub. That avoids any and all issues that come from using the speaker-level inputs on the subwoofer. There should be line-in RCA jacks on an ARPR1010 cabinet, right? As a side note you can't use a passive Y-adapter like this to combine audio signals coming into an amp (it may damage one or the other source device if I remember right), but they work fine to split a single output signal to send to multiple amplifiers.

After that, yes your speakers should work fine connected in parallel so the amp sees a load of 4 ohms per channel.

What a glorious time for you! If you haven't already check out nic collins book this was a big help as I moved beyond bending. Unfortunately, we lost Ray Wilson last year, but Music From Outer Space remains a tremendous resource, his make book is good too..

Honestly--buy one of these. Guaranteed it will be as good or better.

They make surge protectors that switch some of the outlets based on whether one main device is plugged in and powered on. Plug the receiver / preamp into the main, and then plug the Behringer (or a 12v wall wart connected to the trigger port) into one of the slave outlets.

Edit: Here's a popular one.

I would look at something like this to match the amp.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J23V8/

Don't make this harder than it needs to be.

RCA - TS adapters (not TRS adapters) are sufficient to allow these inputs to accept a single-ended signal. And no, it's not improper to do so.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-Black-Pieces/dp/B000068O3S

I have a this car amp and a 4 ohm 400w rms Focal car subwoofer sitting around and want to use in my house. Will this power supply be sufficient? Will I need anything else to to make it work?

I've found this bit to be the key to trimming the veneer out of the driver holes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2G69M/

I'll cut as close to the edges as I can with a utility knife and then clean it up with that. Just don't push too hard or it will eat into your material.

If I understand your problem you could do what I did and buy these, cheap and useful even it they don't work for this issue. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Headphone-Splitter-Separate-Controls/dp/B0016CFZQ0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002STR22/ref=psdcmw_2257619011_t2_B00HSCMPL0

Even if the splitter works, wont you also need pre-amps on each mic before feeding into the sound cards?

If so it may be simpler to do the mixing in software and just feed the mixed signal back out to your PA or whatever. Latency may become an issue if it's for live audio.

Source: not an expert

Edit: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI4000-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI-PRO/dp/B0002E57DY

I won't be able to power something at 24v with my 12v battery... is it possible?

I charge the battery with this charger

And I installed this voltmetre on one side

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/behringer-inuke-nu1000-power-amp

Vs

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PR60-Supply-Output/dp/B00009YFV0

The difference is jerry rigging a power supply to run amp the you already have vs running an amp that is designed for exactly what you are trying to do

You'll need a mixer to get the two inputs (laptop and xbox) to a single output (headphones). You can try something like this but really any mixer will work. https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=pd_sim_267_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E08ZR6TKJGAJQNCW820C

Just realize you'll need some cables to get everything connected. In your case, if you're using the headphone out on your laptop and xbox, you'll need 1/8" stereo to rca cables. For your headphones you'll need a 1/8" female to rca.

If you really wanted to just rig something together, you could always plug in your xbox headphone output to your laptop's mic input. Then using the software mixer, playback your mic input through your headphones. Not recommended!

hmm it doenst look like my turntable has a pre-amp build in so it looks like i also need to buy that. Are there any well known pre-amp kits? I did some quick googling but I mainly found mic pre amps wich i asume is something completely different. maybe ill just order the pyle p999 and maybe ill later upgrade to a actual diy pre amp

thanks for your explanation about preamps

Okay so I just realized how I could have potentially screwed up this whole project, and I really need confirmation now! The project designer of the amplifier I'm making says that the speaker should have an impedance of between 6 and 8, but the speaker I bought is for a car and has a rating of 4. REALISTICALLY, how screwed am I? Should I not even risk plugging it in? Will it at least function without blowing up/catching fire? I'm also filling the enclosure with dacron... jeezus how fcked am I? The speaker hooked up to my iPhone and sounded fine, but I really don't know about the amp. And the sad thing is I'm JUST finding this out now, and there's no way I'll be able to get a new speaker in time.

Project site : http://makezine.com/projects/make-34/monobox-powered-speaker-2/

Speakers I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/Boss-BRS35-Replacement-Individually-Clamshell/dp/B001RNNX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464919443&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+cone