(Part 3) Top products from r/dogemining

I know 280x and 290's fairly well, but you have a lot of cards that I haven't personally worked with. That aside, the process is pretty much the same, it's just the settings that will differ. You should research the right voltages (out of the box and what others have used as undervolt) and then run through that process. There are a TON of resources for you to pick from... Here is a great series which lead to a ton more links on undervolting cards as well as the semi-official scrypt mining hardware comparison. Just find your specific hardware and try out some settings.


How to undervolt a card (in general, the process is the same, your settings will vary per card) (requires making a DOS bootable drive to run ATIFlash)


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/09/how-to-modify-video-bios-to-undervolt-gpu-in-linux/


How to make a DOS bootable drive:


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/04/how-to-create-a-dos-bootable-usb-drive/


Hardware comparison:


https://litecoin.info/Mining_Hardware_Comparison


Download VBE7


http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/vbe7-vbios-editor-for-radeon-hd-7000-series-cards.189089/


Also to cool off your cards, buy some Arctic Silver or Icy Diamond and replace the stock paste on your GPU with some quality thermal paste.


http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8

OR


http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-Grams/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394905207&sr=1-1&keywords=arctic+silver


Hope this helps!

I'm not suggesting you add a secondary support. Rather, just a piece of aluminum angle bar mounted on the front support, at the same height as the rear support. This will allow the front of the GPU's PCI I/O shield to rest against a solid surface, effectively holding up the attached PCB even if it can't rest on a rear support. In fact, you could probably reduce your costs if you used this same angle-bar for the top portion of the front-support as well. It would allow you to thread the mounting points just the same as using tubing, but would eliminate any issues with DVI ports placed within 1 inch of the top of the PCI I/O shield (which would otherwise prevent you from being able to mount the PCI I/O shield flush against the tubing). It will also eliminate the issue someone else mentioned regarding obstruction of the I/O shield vents on reference GPUs that exhaust out the I/O shield. Lastly, using the angle bar in the secondary, lower position on the front support structure allows for the addition of ASIC-supporting-sheets for future expansion, effectively making your chassis more relevant because of its upgradability (another made up word).

If I've still failed to explain myself clearly, just try this: Attach a second, horizontal cross-bar to the front support structure at the same height as the rear support's horizontal bar. This sorts out support issues for short cards, and adds a level mounting surface for ASIC-supporting acrylic sheets. And if that front-support horizontal bar is aluminum angle rather than tubing, it should cost less. And if the top horizontal bar of the front support is also aluminum angle rather than tubing, you've further reduced your costs, and eliminated any compatibility issues with DVI ports or exhaust vents.

The accelero mono isnt that huge. It does an amazing job cooling though, super quiet as well.
size - http://imgur.com/YOwkP4r
only 44 a piece with free shipping if you have prime
http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Accelero-Mono-Plus-Cooler/dp/B006DAD8HS

I have a couple of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039825M6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since my rig is in a mostly unused bedroom, I simply went for the highest CFM I could find. They're not even that loud really either. I've only been running them for a few days now, but they seem like they're pretty high quality. Got good reviews on both amazon and newegg. They also come with a molex adapter, if you need that and self-tapping screws.

I ran across this in a gridseed forum post earlier tonight:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005AXDVUS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=011080hc-20

Can't vouch for it, I'm using PCI-E power adapters for mine, but they certainly look like the right stuff.

Build:

MoBo: Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P

CPU: AMD Sempron 145

RAM: Kingston Hyper X Blu 4 GB

HD: Kingston Digital 60GB

GPU: 5x 750ti FTW edition

PSU: KingWin 850 Watts ATX 850

I have a feeling its the combination of a crappy PSU choice (I was aiming for different GPU's originally) and the FTW edition GPU's.

That generic Cooler Master paste gets the job done, but it's really not ideal; if you look up is thermal conductivity on Tom's Hardware it's way down the bottom (it is more conductive than toothpaste at least.)

Grab some of this stuff. It's some of the best paste out there for only $10.

I had the exact same problem! I solved this by installing These

And this should make it easier to get it where you want them.

Different brand cards can be somewhat different, but with mine, they blow a good amount of hot air from the front and a bit less from the rear. With that config, they would be sucking in a ton of hot air from their neighbors.

I used zip ties to to make a block of 5 120mm fans lengthwise and have them on top blowing down as close to the VRMs as possible. In my case, no external fans including box fans make much difference, the cards tend to run at 70C.

I used these. Silent compared to the GPU fans, but a lot less air movement than a box fan.

There are two artic breeze usb fans plugged into the usb hub. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003XN24GY?pc_redir=1409942669&robot_redir=1 and the two 80mm fans are just standard silent 80mm three pin fans that I ripped the fan speed sensor wire out of and swapped the other two wires about in the plug to make work. The whole thing runs completely silently.

i go for ~150 cfm 120 mm oem system pull fans

like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Nidec-BETA-V-TA450DC-B35502-35-120mm-x-38mm-Fan-Y4574-/201045054277?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item2ecf381345

generally, most 120mm nidec beta v, foxconn, delta system pull fans will push around 150 cfm at .7A to 1.6A

alternatively, these: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Bearing-Computer-Radiators/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395092274&sr=1-6&keywords=cm+120mm are price friendly but lower cfm

You should pick up semprons and an AM3 board over the FM2 socket. Uses less power and allows for a much wider selection of motherboards. You really don't need it to be pulling a bunch more power when you're already pushing it with the power supply you have. I would go with someone other than Biostar on the motherboard as well and I'd say switch out the psu for something more like this. http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Fully-Modular-Performance-compatible-OCZ-ZX850W/dp/B004NMF9ES/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1394734079&sr=1-8&keywords=psu you don't really wanna have to deal with a bad psu.

this is your friend

edit: add this and they will just be really fucking far away from each other

http://amzn.com/B00608MP5E

Its the 860 watt platinum seasonic. This is the exact one.

Team green here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QV9CBV

You're gonna need some of these bad boys:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007RXDDM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're gonna kill your laptop. I tried the same thing with my y410p, nVidia 755m graphics card on this cooling stand.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-Ultra-Slim-R9-NBC-XSLI-GP/dp/B005C31HC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406212588&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+laptop+cooler

I had to get the motherboard replaced. Just get a couple furies and call it a day.

Not sure how many fury's you have, but if it was me, I'd get a gold rated computer psu and the following.

http://www.amazon.com/PCI-E-6-Pin-2-1mm-Barrel-Gridseed/dp/B00K0XR4LU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406701636&sr=8-2&keywords=asic+power+cable

or

http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-2-1x5-5mm-Power-Adapter-Camera/dp/B0058RLD9C/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=12PMV7JN35Y0ZM3V46QX

This will eliminate the psu issues typical of the included fury psu's

Sorry about the loss. Not too be too harsh, but that hub looks like total shit. I wouldn't have trusted it to begin with. Those crappy little DC adapters aren't up to the task. The last USB hub I bought was this and it came with a 3.8A quality power supply.